TRAVEL

PUTRI ZANINA

The Twelve Apostles is only one reason why thousands of people make their way along Australia’s Great Ocean Road. PUTRI ZANINA finds out what else there is to do and see

THE rotor blades spin furiously. Within seconds, the helicopter levitates from the tarmac and we’re in the air. The blue sky envelops us from all sides as the chopper pulls away from the land. We whirl over an immense sea of blue with white fingers of giant waves pounding rugged cliffs lining the spectacularly long and curvy coastline. The hinterland is a carpet of green, broken only by a narrow snaking road with moving vehicles growing to mere dots as we circle higher and higher into the sky. It is an awesome feeling. Then, we hear the pilot’s voice above the roar of the engine: “There, the Twelve Apostles!” So these are the world-famous Apostles — the stunning, larger than life creations of nature that have attracted thousands of people to the Port Campbell National Park along Australia’s Great Ocean Road that measures 285kms from Torquay to Warrnambool. Hugging the shore on the south-west coast of Victoria, the Great Ocean Road is hailed as one of the world’s most spectacular coastal drives and the Twelve Apostles as one of its major attractions. Natural Sculptures Seen from the air, it’s as if there’s a face-off between the rocks and the sea. The high waves pound the towering yellow, sandy cliffs and as their faces seem to “blend”, it’s really hard to say which feature is hitting which. This dramatic natural confrontation has been going on for some 20 million years. Through the sheer force of wind and waves, huge limestone rocks have been carved out of the cliff shore. The waves have eaten away at the rocks at sea level, forming caves on each side of the headland. The caves eventually crumble, forming arches which then collapse, leaving rock stacks. The Twelve Apostles, some rising as high as 11-storey buildings are among these giant rock stacks forlornly holding their own in the swirling waters of the Southern Ocean. Actually, there are no longer 12 Apostles. A few have succumbed to erosion and are now low platforms or reefs. Even when all 12 existed, it was not possible to see them all at once as some were hidden behind headlands or obscured by other rock stacks. They will all disappear some day, so it’s best to go and see them now.

Other rock formations include the London Bridge (could it be falling down soon?) and the Loch Ard Gorge. Here, in 1878, the Loch Ard struck a reef at the tip of Mutton Bird Island and sank, leaving only two survivors out of 54 passengers.

As much as the Twelve Apostles look spectacular, it’s funny how in the last century, they were simply called Sow And Piglets. It was said that Mutton Bird Island, where the Loch Ard went under, was the “sow” and the smaller rock stacks the “piglets”. To continue calling them the Sow And Piglets seemed undignified so Twelve Apostles was thought to be the more apt name.

Though the chopper run by the 12 Apostles Helicopters lasts 15 minutes, the view of the Twelve Apostles, Lord Ard Gorge and the Shipwreck Coast as well as London Bridge, Two Mile Bay, Port Campbell, the long coastline and the Great Ocean Road is incredibly beautiful.

Climbing Up the Cliffs Apart from the chopper ride, you can also walk to the well-protected Twelve Apostles Park near the Heliport launch site. An underpass and a meandering boardwalk lead to vantage viewpoints perched on sloping coastal cliffs. All along the walk, you can see some unique plants that have survived despite the harsh winds, salt-laden air and shallow and infertile soils. There is an abundance of native local plants such as coast cushion bush, silvery tussock grass and coast beard-heath thriving on the undulating rough terrain. The viewpoint platforms offer a truly breathtaking view of the rock stacks and the sea. Strong balmy air sweeps the coast and the waves pound the cliffs way below. Beneath the waters is a remarkable seascape with towering walls covered in colourful seaweeds and sponges that support schools of fishes.

Wrap all these together and the Twelve Apostles Park make for one of the most dramatic sights in the world.

One Great Loop The Great Ocean Road is part of the Great Southern touring route covering over 400kms of coastal road and inland highways traversing scenic landscapes and seascapes. Built between 1919 and 1932, it not only provided work for returning military men but also served as a memorial to soldiers who died in World War One. The far-sightedness of making it a tourist route even then has paid off as it is now a destination of world repute and has very much been left in its rugged wild form. Many tourists begin their drive from Melbourne via the West Gate Bridge and following the Princess Highway towards Ballarat, a rustic town that harks back to the gold rush era. Sovereign Hill in Ballarat has been recreated to become a gold mining town of the 1860s and a stop there is well worth your time. From there, it’s on to Warrnambool before starting the drive along the Great Ocean Road towards Torquay and then returning to Melbourne. It’s one big loop that you simply can’t rush through. There are just so many things to see and do, and many roads to detour. Rivers and creeks have walking tracks that lead to gorges, waterfalls, caves and rainforests. Pick a beach and leave your footprints in the sand. See the sun rise over the ocean or watch it go down over farmland dotted with cottages and windmills so rustic, you’ll just simply not want to leave.

Inland roads, which are mostly one lane each side, are flanked by bushes and towering gum trees interspersed with flat lands against hills and valleys. Strong cross winds often hit certain stretches and you may feel your car shake for a bit. Take power naps at lay-bys along the way — there are signs saying “Droopy eyes? Power nap now!” For safety reasons, it’s best you take heed, as the journey is long and some straight roads can make you feel drowsy.

Charming Coastal Towns Spending a night at Warrnambool is recommended. Set against the gentle arc of Lady Bay, the port town has sheltered beaches and verdant gardens. From May to September, it’s one of the best places in the world for watching whales and it’s also one of the few cities in the world with a whale nursery. This is located at Logans Beach where platforms are erected for viewing Southern Right Whales that come in to calve every year.

Warrnambool is the capital of the Shipwreck Coast and as its name suggests, it’s a perilous section of the Victorian coastline nestled between Moonlight Head and Port Fairy that’s the site for more than 160 shipwrecks and where hundreds of lives were lost at sea.

Much of the city’s history is showcased in the Flagstaff Hill Maritime Village where original buildings, a lighthouse and a port, complete with ships, have been restored. The place also recreates how rugged the life was in Warrnambool during the 19th Century. The collection of shipwreck relics including the famous porcelain peacock which was washed up amongst the wreckage from the Loch Ard in 1878, can be seen in the museum there. A touching story titled Shipwrecked is a permanent part of the museum’s attraction. Through the clever play of sound, laser and water, it tells the story of the Loch Ard disaster. The audience is taken through the journey in a 3D theatre that lets them feel as if they are sinking with the ship into the ocean depths.

From Warrnambool, you’ll drive past the charming coastal towns of Port Campbell, Princetown, Apollo Bay, Lorne and Anglesea before ending with Torquay. While Port Campbell is the show-stopper with its natural sculptures of breathtaking beauty, Apollo Bay, west of the more steep stretches of the Great Ocean Road and east of the rainforest of Great Otway National Park in Cape Otway is the paradise by the sea. It spreads out along a sweeping bay and nestles into the lush greenery of the Otway Ranges. Coastal hamlets, fishing villages, trendy restaurants, cafes and B&Bs make Apollo Bay one of the main holiday resorts along Great Ocean Road.

To ride the waves, there’s Torquay, dubbed the surfing capital of Australia along the Surf Coast, also home to Anglesea with beaches glistening in the briny air and golf fairways stretching for as far as the eyes can see. But often, there are more kangaroos on the fairways than golfers teeing off! Then’s there’s Lorne, with picture-perfect scenery where the Erskine River meets the Loutit Bay.

All along the drive, there are many pit stops where you can feast your eyes on rugged cliffs, blue seas and miles of golden beaches.

How To Get There Malaysia Airlines, AirAsia X and Emirates have direct flights to Melbourne. Rent a car in Melbourne to go on your own self-drive tour of the Great Ocean Road which is part of Victoria’s Great Southern Touring Route. From Melbourne, you can head inland to Geelong or to Warrnambool via the Princess Highway (3½ hours drive) or via the Great Ocean Road (5½ hours).

For more info on the Great Ocean Road, go to www.greatoceanroad.org or www.visitvictoria.com Where To Stay There are many accommodation choices in Melbourne, Warrnambool and all other coastal towns. If you stay in Warrnambool, a good choice is The Sebel Deep Blue (www.mantradeepblue.com.au) located on a tiny peninsula between Lady Bay and Stringray Bay with all rooms facing the magnificent sea vista. The resort is 10 minutes’ drive to the Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum (www.flagstaffhill.com). Twelve Apostles Helicopters’ Scenic Tours The company operating the Twelve Apostles Helicopters’ scenic tours has a heliport in Port Campbell. Four tour packages are available, ranging from a 10-minute tour of Port Campbell and the Twelve Apostles at AU$95 (RM294) per person to a 50-minute tour of Port Campbell right to Cape Otway (AU$395 or RM1,220 per person). Child under three gets to fly for free.

For details, go to www.12apostleshelicopters.com.au