Istanbul, a city at the crossroads of Asia and Europe, is full of historical treasures, cultural wonders, great shopping and yes, warm and friendly people who are all too willing to share the delights of their capital city.

I arrive in Istanbul with no intention to buy a carpet. In fact, I have no need for a carpet, large or small.

I know Turkey is famous for its carpets and practically everyone who comes here goes home with one or two or even many, but I wasn’t going to be one of them. So why is it that within 48 hours of my arrival, I am walking out of a carpet shop with a silly grin on my face and, yes, a fine silk carpet?

Istanbul has that effect on you. It’s exuberance and joie de vivre grab people (visitors included) by the hand and pull them along for a wonderful ride.

And so, I find myself sitting in a carpet shop, being offered tea, coffee, even raki, the fiery aniseed-flavoured grape brandy that seems to be the national drink, at 10 o’clock in the morning.

“No obligation, don’t worry, it’s just our custom!” cries out the carpet seller.

He is a master salesman, teacher and psychologist all rolled into one. He has his assistants whip out carpet after carpet, one more stunning and intricate than the other. He explains materials, designs, knots per square inch, warp and weft in fascinating detail, even weaving in history.

Catching a whiff of my interest in a particular design, he patiently reels me in like a crafty angler. I don’t know why I do it but before I realise it, I am handing over my credit card and paying for a carpet I did not need.

That experience pretty much sums up my stay in Istanbul, where I am bowled over by stunning sights and the heartfelt hospitality of its people. Most of my preconceptions about Istanbul get swept away practically instantaneously. Turkey probably has the most stress-free immigration and customs in the world. There is not even the need for an arrival card to fill out.

How welcoming is that?

Turkish delights

Sitting at the crossroads between Europe and Asia, Istanbul is at once very Western and Eastern, presenting a delightful juxtaposition that just begs to be explored. Everywhere I walk on the cobblestoned streets, a new sight greets me, and every corner I turn, a discovery waits to be unearthed.

It’s no wonder that many visitors who come to Istanbul don’t even leave Sultanahmet, the Old Istanbul, a World Heritage site that is jam-packed with so many great sights that a short stay won’t do it justice.

When I enter the Aya Sofya, Istanbul’s famous monument completed in 537 A.D. and used as a church, mosque and now museum, I feel I am indeed privileged to visit one of the world’s greatest buildings. The interior, with its magnificent domed ceiling, stuns most into silence.

The Blue Mosque, constructed almost 1,000 years later, is equally awe-inspiring with its stained-glass windows and Iznik tiles. A visit to the famous Topkapi Palace takes almost a day, with its many courts and harems giving an inkling as to what it must have been like to live as royalty in the 15th century.

I walk up and down the street where, on my map, it says the Basilica Cistern should be. Instead, I discover tiny shops, eateries and art galleries, but no cistern.

To my bemusement, I’m finally directed to what looks like a shopping mall and through an unassuming entrance. Built by Justinian in 532 A.D., the Basilica Cistern shows off the extraordinary engineering skills of the Romans. Used to store, pump and deliver water, this underground cavern has symmetry and proportions that are breathtaking, lit by soft lighting that gives off a ghostly aura.

Away from the hordes of tourists, I make my way to the Kariye Muzesi, a museum in the western district. Its original name was Chora Church and it was built in the late 11th century and converted into a mosque in later centuries.

The mosaics within, as well as the frescoes, depict scenes from the Bible. It’s a quiet place, ideal for contemplation of the long and convoluted history of Turkey and what its people have endured through the centuries. No wonder they seem to grab every opportunity to celebrate and live life to the fullest, because consciously or subconsciously, they know that it could all come to a screaming stop at any time.

Shop till you drop

Really, I come to Istanbul mainly to enjoy the city, and shopping is not on my agenda. But when I enter the Grand Bazaar, all thought of restraint leaves my brain, because it is patently impossible to resist the products on offer. Beautifully painted ceramics, delicate tea sets, leatherware as soft as baby’s skin, woven bags, shoes … so much to buy, so little time. The good thing about shopping here is that all the stuff is truly made in Turkey. And with merchants who are suddenly your best friend, inviting you to “come in, just look, no obligation, have some tea”, how can you resist?

I soon discover that crafts are not the only good buys in Istanbul. Famed for its cotton (ladies, check out the Zara factory outlet), Istanbul has a very good selection of contemporary fashion as well. A stroll along Istiklal Caddesi, which is one long avenue of contemporary boutiques and stores, proves to be my undoing, and I load up on T-shirts that feel as good as they look.

Eat, drink and be merry

It’s apparent very soon after I arrive that the Turkish people are inordinately proud of not only their culture but also their food. Rarely have I been to a capital where there is so little other cuisines to be found, including the fast food joints that are everywhere in the rest of the world.

I’m not complaining though. Istanbul is a food-lover’s paradise. Even breakfast is a treat, with a variety of breads, pickles, cheeses and kahvesi, and Turkish coffee to die for. Piping hot pide or bread and kebab make for quick eats that are delicious and affordable.

As I walk towards the Galata bridge in the evening, the row of fishermen with their long, long rods suggest that I’m in for a seafood treat. Indeed, a stroll along the lower level of the bridge reveals a variety of fish restaurants.

As I tuck into awesomely fresh fish, three old gentlemen play the violin, mandolin and drum, singing melancholic melodies that have the locals joining in. At first, it sounds like mournful wailing to my untrained ears but somehow it all seems to work, especially when my meal is washed down with copious amounts of raki.

For an all-round good time though, nothing beats an evening at a mehane or tavern in Beyoglu. Nevizade Sokak is a delightful maze of alleys dotted with these mehanes, interspersed with tiny fish markets offering a vast array of seafood.

I park myself at one such tavern heaving with chattering locals and am offered a bewildering array of mezes (appetisers) and fresh fish. It’s all great fun with shoulder-to-shoulder carousing, aided in no small part by much imbibing of raki. The locals call it the drink of the gods, and all I can say after a few glasses of this cloudy white brew is that the gods sure know how to party here!

When I start to pack for home, my bag is full of food.

When I enter the Spice Market, the aromas alone convince me that I have died and entered foodie heaven. I follow my nose and discover ground Turkish coffee in a tiny hole-in-the-wall shop near the Spice Market that has the locals queuing up round the block. I notice that they buy their coffee in tiny quantities, knowing full well that coffee should be ground fresh and drunk as soon as possible.

I also splash out for cured meats and olives. Vendors offer me all kinds of Turkish Delight and I am really delighted to discover that they are truly fresh, chewy and not too sweet. Nougat, baklava, the list goes on.

While I dash around to get last minute shopping done at the Grand Bazaar, something catches my eye. It is a garden tea house, with every table occupied by locals.

There are merchants from the bazaar, taking a quick break with a glass of mint tea; businessmen, too, in suits huddled over their cell phones. Young women, stylishly dressed and wearing headscarves, chatter and smoke their nargilehs or waterpipes, while senior citizens, wrinkled and gnarled, doze over their empty glasses.

I gratefully sink into a carpeted divan and sip my apple tea, taking in my surroundings. Perhaps there’s a lesson here to be learnt from the locals who seem to co-exist peacefully, young and old, Eastern and Western, in the same teahouse. Even I, an outsider, feel embraced by their warmth and generosity.

If there’s ever been a case of falling instantly in love with a city, this is it for me.

Getting there

There are direct flights from Kuala Lumpur to Istanbul on airlines including Malaysia Airlines.

WHEN TO GO

Anytime is good. Summer months are popular although hot and crowded with tourists. Winters can be considered cold by Malaysians so perhaps the spring and autumn months are more ideal.

WHAT TO BRING

Fiercely nationalistic, the Turkish people still insist on using their own Turkish lira instead of the euro, but if you don’t manage to obtain this currency at the moneychangers, just bring enough euros. Bring a camera because Istanbul is stunningly beautiful with incredibly well preserved buildings and equally interesting people. A sense of adventure and an openness to learn and try new things. A healthy respect for the centuries-old history and culture that make Istanbul so special.

WHERE TO STAY

There are all the usual big hotel chains, but if you’re in for a little more adventure, do your research and find a pensione or bed & breakfast in Sultanahmet. What they lack in modern amenities, they make up for in charming little courtyards where you can enjoy breakfast al fresco, and the most helpful staff.

GETTING AROUND

For a city that does not feature much of anything in English. Istanbul is remarkably easy to get around. Sultanahmet is made for walking as there’s much to explore and discover on foot. A word of advice though, walking on the cobblestoned streets is tough on the legs, so bring along good walking shoes. There’s a great tram system that runs through the city that’s incredibly easy to use, including an old one that rattles up and down Istiklal Caddesi.