TRAVEL

By JOLEEN LUNJEW

jlunjew@thestar.com.my

By Louisa Lim

louisa@thestar.com.my

What happens when you combine a swish eco resort with acres of pristine wilderness and one very big lake? Top-of-the-line adventure, it seems.

Fish spas are overrated. You go in and pay an unjustifiable amount of money just so these food-deprived little creatures can gnaw at your feet. However, there’s none of that nonsense at Lake Kenyir in Terengganu, where the massage is au naturel and the fish are friendly, not menacing.

Find that hard to believe? Try dipping your feet into the Kelah Sanctuary’s cold, glassy waters.

Located at Sungai Petang, one of the 14 rivers that supply water to the dam, the sanctuary is home to hundreds and thousands of foot-long Mahseer fish that will glide up to your submerged feet and give them a good, slippery massage. While it isn’t meant for the faint-hearted, those who are brave enough will find themselves greatly rewarded.

The best part of it all is that it is free.

“Careful,” warns Abdul Latif Jamaludin to those of us who are about to attempt the inconceivable. “If you kick any of the fish with your foot, I’ll flick you into the water.”

Lake Kenyir Resort & Spa sales manager Abdul Latif, 42, formerly the resort’s sports and recreation manager, is understandably protective when it comes to the Malaysian Mahseer. Like the wild salmon, Mahseers brave rapids to breed in the rocky streams upriver. They feed on a weird combination of algae, crustaceans, insects, frogs, other fish and fruits that fall from trees overhead.

Unfortunately, some of the larger species have declined dramatically over the years, and are now on the endangered list due to pollution, habitat loss and over-fishing.

The Kelah Sanctuary was established to rehabilitate the species. Tourists are granted entry, but their numbers are limited to 40 a day to reduce environmental impact. Fishing, of course, is strictly prohibited.

Getting to the sanctuary is not easy; its accessibility depends on how willing you are to sit out an hour’s worth of rollicky boat-ride from the resort (with magnificent views along the way), and an additional half-hour of huffing and puffing through a forest believed to be millions of years old.

In fact, the place is so secluded that producers of the reality series Survivor had intended to film their next season in this very place — until fate messed with their plans.

The hills are alive

“This feels like a scene from Apocalypse Now,” says my friend, as the boatman expertly navigates us past each river bend under the light drizzle. “This could be Vietnam or the Amazon.”

We had left the sanctuary and are now heading to Lasir Falls, one of the more popular waterfalls in the area because of its 500-foot drop and multi-tiered ponds. Apart from the waterfalls, there is also a limestone cave called Gua Bewah in the vicinity.

However, I am told that we are giving that a miss because it is being cordoned off for further excavation works following the discovery of Malaysia’s oldest artefact early this year. Carbon-dating has revealed it to be a 16,000-year-old skeleton dating back to the Mesolithic age.

Up ahead, an otter emerges from the water’s edge and disappeares into the foliage before any of us can snap pictures of it. Still, many in our group who were silent a minute ago have become chatty and visibly exhilarated over this random encounter. Although the sighting of any wildlife is usually cause for celebration, Abdul Latif says he’s spotted bigger animals before.

“I was with a group of tourists recently, and we saw something black swimming in the water. So we stopped the engine and held our breaths for 15 minutes. When it leapt onto land, we realised it was a panther!” he exclaims.

“I’ve also seen a tiger crossing the road when I least expected it. But that’s usually what nature is like. Nothing is promising.”

In Lake Kenyir, however, your chances increase significantly. After all, the man-made lake was once part of the tropical lowland rainforest that surrounds the area. It was created in 1985, after large tracts of the forest spanning over 209,199ha were felled to construct a hydroelectric dam.

To give you a sense of its size, Lake Kenyir is 1½ times larger than Penang island. There is no exact estimation of the number of species of flora and fauna existing within this vast ecosystem, but local villagers and the indigenous tribes have to share their space with elephants, tigers, panthers, gibbons and even crocodiles.

Although a large number of the animals were caught and transported elsewhere (to Taman Negara, for instance, at the southern end of the lake) when the dam was created, nobody really knows how many animals slipped through and were subsequently lost.

Then, according to past records, came the the unexpected downpour. What was supposed to be completed within a year happened within two weeks, and the dam started to fill up.

The fast-rising lake soon claimed everything, including millions of ringgit’s worth of machinery.

The 340 islands we are gawking at are not really islands but hilltops above 138m in height. What was once a virgin forest became a murky, mystifying underwater world. I’m told that years after the great flood the submerged trees continued to be harvested for their top-notch wood — a potentially dangerous job attempted by many but pulled off by few.

“A group of Thai divers were invited to chop these trees underwater. That went well. They were eventually replaced by Canadian loggers, who came with fancy-schmancy robotics. They were, for the most part, unsuccessful. That’s what happens when you think you’re able to outsmart nature,” says Abdul Latif.

Try as I might, I can’t make out the tree carcasses and rusty metal that lie in the depths of Lake Kenyir. Beneath the cloudy sky, the lake resembles an emerald-tinted mirror, reflecting the hills and heavens. Dozens of dead branches and twigs stick out from the water like proud testaments to the past, contributing a sense of surrealism to the already picture-perfect scenery.

Nature’s last resort

There’s nothing better than to wake up by the edge of the lake, to the sound of squawking birds and cheeky primates. In a place filled with spartan digs and ill-equipped boathouses, the Lake Kenyir Resort & Spa has the final say in style and comfort. However, visitors will be disappointed if they expect satin quilts and flat-screen TVs.

Think shabby chic, not ultra luxe.

The resort itself has been around for years, and comprises 135 kampung-style chalets built on what was once a hilly oil palm plantation. DRB-Hicom Berhad wanted the resort to blend with its natural settings and, at the same time, reflect the rich cultural heritage of Terengganu.

It was a tricky task, but the company managed to create a place that is actually pretty nice, complete with big, shady trees and decently landscaped gardens. These new trees are home to a variety of birds, making the resort and its environs (especially Sungai Buweh Road) a birdwatcher’s paradise.

“Most people would go to Sabah and Sarawak for birding. They don’t know Kenyir has nine hornbill species, which is more than the two states. With a bit of luck and skill, you can see all nine species in and around the resort in one day,” says Anuar McAfee, 45, vice chairman of Malaysian Nature Society in the Terengganu district, and an avid birder.

The hornbills are part of the more than 230 residents and migrant species that live in Kenyir. Other interesting birds include the peregrine falcon, which can swoop down at 400kph, making it the fastest bird in the world, as well as the elusive forest pigeon, brighter and more beautiful than its city counterparts.

According to McAfee, the resident birds are here all year, but migrant birds from the north fly in between September and April. The best time to birdwatch is in the early morning, between sunrise and 10.30am, and in the late afternoon, from 4.30am to sunset.

“Some might say luck is involved in spotting interesting birds, but I think the more time you spend in the field observing birds, the better your identification skills, the more likely you are to find something special,” he says.

I am a hopeless birder, impatient and easily distracted, but I meet an elderly Singaporean lady with bionic eyes the very next day who proves McAfee right.

“Look, look!” she yelps excitedly. “Can you see the flock of birds in the trees? Absolutely gorgeous!”

As she points out a bunch of invisible birds, I find myself growing disheartened. No matter how hard I squint, I can’t make anything out. But neither can her group of travel companions.

There’s something in the air that makes people giddy with cheerfulness, no matter how exasperating the situation seems. Abdul Latif claims that there’s a science behind this.

“When you’re in the office, on the phone, in front of the computer, you’re exposed to all these positive ions, making you sick in the long run,” he says. “But when you get out here and surround yourself with nature’s negative ions, you’re neutralising your body, recharging it.”

The Kuala Lumpur native, who is a bit of a Tarzan now, has lived here for more than three years. He says he doesn’t wish to be anywhere else.

“When I’m alone, I like to go to the jetty and talk to the trees and animals. Once you understand nature, you realise it’s God’s greatest gift to mankind,” he says.

It’s a pity then, that only last year newspapers reported that yet another tract of forest north of Kenyir Lake would be sacrificed for dams and timber. The Tembat and Petuang forest reserves is home to countless species of wildlife like the highly endangered Sumatran rhinoceros, Malayan tiger and Malayan gaur.

It also harbours the Asian elephant, tapir, primates, wild cats and plants, of which 94 species are Red Listed as threatened by extinction by the International Union for Conservation of Nature.

But never mind that, nature soldiers on in the face of development, brave and persistent. If this is Apocalypse Now, I’d pray for the end of the world every day.

Getting there:

From Kuala Lumpur, the shortest route is via Kuantan, taking the Jerangau-Jabor Highway to Lake Kenyir. Those from the south can take the Kota Tinggi-Mersing route to Kuantan, then up the Jerangau-Jabor Highway.

For those coming from the north, head towards Kuala Terengganu, then make your way to Lake Kenyir. If you don’t fancy driving, then there is the Tasik Kenyir Express Coach Service departing from Kuala Lumpur which drops you off at the resort’s doorstep.

Tel: (09)-666 8888/(03)-2052 7766

www.lakekenyir.com

By KEE HUA CHEE

By GILLIAN & HOWARD BIRNSTIHL

By WAYNE JOHNSON

One hundred twenty seven years after an eruption tore Krakatoa island apart, a child has emerged — blusterous yet charming.

THE name Krakatoa became synonymous with destruction and the force of nature after an eruption in 1883 which killed more than 100,000 people. It’s on record as being the loudest explosion ever.

And the power it generated blew a whole island into three separate pieces, altered the world’s climate for a few years and depopulated the coastlines of Java and Sumatra for generations. For many years afterwards, the seas in the Sunda Straits remained calm, but now — as they say in the movies — “It’s back”.

A new volcanic island, Anak Krakatoa (Child of Krakatoa), has been rapidly emerging from the ocean for the last 75 years in the centre of the old caldera. It now broods menacingly over the sea with smoke drifting up from its summit and the occasional angry outpouring of rock or molten lava.

This active new arrival is surrounded by the three islands which are the remains of the original Krakatoa before its spectacular demise. These are now covered in lush greenery in sharp contrast to their new ash-coloured neighbour. The Krakatoa islands are accessible by boat from the west Java resort towns of Carita and Anyer, although they tend to be more popular with foreign visitors than Indonesians.

There are various ways to get to them, ranging from established tour operators with modern boats fitted with safety equipment to fishing boats that can be hired. The cost varies considerably between the two options but the tour operators will take you there in 90 minutes (as opposed to five hours in a fishing boat), and they have radios and life jackets in case things go wrong.

To enjoy the experience in fine weather and to avoid rough seas and potential disaster, you would do well to visit during the dry season between April and October. Then the seas are calm and chances of rain in the morning are minimal. It also allows you, if you are lucky, to catch a glimpse of dolphins and flying fish leaping in and out of the water.

It’s an eerie experience when you do finally land on Anak Krakatoa, an active volcano that is still emerging from the sea. There is a Jurassic Park feel to it, what with giant insects populating the dense vegetation that crowds the island’s lower reaches, framing the bare, scorched slopes looming above.

Although the island is deserted, there is a sign at the small landing area welcoming visitors to Krakatoa National Park, along with information and diagrams about the islands before and after the cataclysmic eruption of 1883.

We also found other less welcoming signs of human presence in the discarded plastic boxes and coke cans that littered the area around the sign.

However, these do not detract from the other-worldly feel of the place.

Walking through this part is relatively easy though, as the lava flows from the caldera have created what looks like well-maintained, wide asphalt roads, cutting through the forest to the sea. These wide boulevards lead to the steep slopes of Krakatoa. But the initial ascent up a steep ridge is often enough to dissuade people from attempting to climb the whole peak. Under a fierce Indonesian sun, this can test the endurance of even the fittest hiker as the incline is steep and there is no cover.

There is also the slight element of fear as you look around at the huge boulders strewn all around — obviously spewed from the crater — and start listening or straining your eyes for any sign of increased activity. This is no idle threat. In the past, tourists who have ignored warnings and attempted to climb to the peak when it was active have been killed by hot rocks raining down on them.

At the top of the ridge, the steep conical slopes leading to the caldera loom ahead, but scrupulous tourist operators will not allow you to attempt to climb this part. The slopes are scarred with yellow sulphur, and hot steam spurts menacingly from fissures in the surface.

For me, the ridge was far enough from which to admire the active volcano and also for views of the other four islands that make up the archipelago. The heat of the day, though, was overpowering (be careful to bring plenty of sunblock and a hat), and I was happy to begin the descent back to the boat.

It was then a short boat journey to one of the larger forested islands where lunch was served on the beach. Despite the total absence of other people during my visit, the animals here seemed used to human encounters. A large monitor lizard was not shy to join our party when it smelt cooked chicken. Although it was thrown a few scraps, this did not do the trick as later we saw it swimming in the sea looking for fish.

The area chosen for snorkelling did not seem promising as it was very close to the shore and the sea was a very dark green. However, I was more than pleasantly surprised when I plunged in and saw the large numbers of multi-coloured coral and shoals of purple and blue fish and larger parrot fish.

It was a total shock to discover how quickly the coral shelf ended and turned into a sheer drop hundreds of feet down into blue nothing. With images of sharks, or some other creature from the deep surfacing from below assailing me, I quickly retreated to the safety of the shallow coral reef.

It was a wrench to finally leave this iconic and surprisingly peaceful place, but the rain clouds were gathering in the distance and I had had enough adventure for one day without being battered by high waves and strong winds on the way back to Java.

RIDZWAN A. RAHIM

ridzwanr@nstp.com.my

Avid scuba diver RIDZWAN A. RAHIM thinks there may be merit in limiting the number of visitors to Redang

Scuba diving should be a passive activity. A responsible diver keeps his hands to himself

I feel like a water-baby these days. I love snorkelling and scuba diving. And even the simple pleasure of jumping off jetties and boats to swim in the clear waters of our islands.

And I do prefer paying less for my island holidays.

But I can understand why the authorities are looking to increase the cost of staying in Redang Island.

Recently, the Terengganu State government announced that from now on, only five-star resorts and hotels will be allowed to operate on the island.

What that means in ringgit and sen is this: Expect to pay some RM1,600 a night for your future Redang getaway.

That’s a quantum leap from the few hundred ringgit that you can get from budget resorts currently operating on the island. Lots of people have already started moaning.

The reason for the move, according to Terengganu Menteri Besar Datuk Seri Ahmad Said, is to protect the island’s fragile natural beauty, especially its coral reef and marine life.

Because of the affordable accommodation, too many people are visiting Redang, he said. As a result, pollution and environmental damage have gone out of control.

“We want to turn Redang into a niche market to control the number of visitors. We are concerned about the environmental damage that is happening on Redang,” he added. Redang is widely regarded as one of 10 most beautiful islands in the world.

It is so beautiful that in the late 90s, a Hong Kong production team chose the island as the location site for the film, Summer Holiday, starring Richie Ren and Sammi Cheng.

The screening of the film in 2000 gave the island a huge amount of publicity and created a surge in both local and international visitors.

And they have not stopped coming since, in particular because a trip here is very affordable.

Businessman Neoh Jiun Yih came to Redang with his wife, child and five of his staff.

He paid for everything, including airfare, to reward the staff for hitting their sales target.

“I’m very happy for my staff. Some of them had never been on an island trip before, never taken the plane before,” he said when met recently in the island.

A school of trevally

“I spent a total of RM5,500, including flight tickets and three days, two nights full accommodation for seven. That’s the great thing about this place.

“But if we go with what the State government is suggesting — that is, RM1,600 per night for a single person — this trip will be impossible for a small business owner like me,” said Neoh.



Protecting Redang’s

Natural Treasures



For me personally, Redang has a special place in my heart. This was where I overcame my fear of water and other obstacles and completed my Padi Open Water diver certification.

One of my most memorable dives was at the Bahagia shipwreck, a cargo ferry that lies 15m under the sea. It has been there for the past six years. You can swim through the ship’s small toilet without having to pay 30 sen.

More recently, my friends and I chanced upon a brand new shipwreck in Redang. The two Vietnamese boats, each about 30m long, were at a dive site called Sandy Bottom.

Our dive master said we were the first to visit the shipwreck as the boats sank only about two days earlier. It was a pleasant surprise.

But, as I mentioned earlier, I can understand if the government wants to somehow control the number of divers coming to the island.

Ever since taking up scuba diving more than a year ago, I am more aware of how interaction with humans can have an adverse effect on the fragile marine environment.

One of the misconceptions people have about the marine life is that they are there for touching.

If they find a turtle, for example, they would try and see if they can ride on it.

They think the whole point of taking up scuba diving is so that you could go down there and touch things or ride on things — something you can’t do when snorkelling. This is wrong.

As a scuba diving student, I was taught from very early on that diving is a passive activity. You are free to observe the marine creatures but never to touch them.

In fact, our instructors told us to keep our arms folded most of the time, and to move slowly and silently so as not to disrupt the natural rhythm of the marine life.

We were also forbidden from wearing gloves, because with gloves, you are more likely to touch things.

I follow these rules religiously.

However, things can still go wrong. For example, during underwater photography.

I am not a photographer but I now see that if you intend to dabble in underwater photography, you must have good buoyancy control — the ability to suspend in mid-water.

Without this skill, a photographer will constantly kick, scull or wave to stay in place or worse, hold on to or step on a coral.

Sometimes, the photographer gets too engrossed in the activity without realising that his gauge has gotten unclipped and is dragging across the coral reefs, destroying them.

Of course, some allowances can be made. For example, when there’s strong undersea current, you have no choice but to hold on to something.

The point is, accidents can and will happen. We cannot design a system that does not allow people to make mistakes.

But we must do all we can to minimise mistakes, to tell people that they must avoid contact with the sensitive marine life.

That is why the use of fins (or flippers) for snorkelling is banned in Redang. There have been instances in the past where snorkellers used their fins to rest on the corals.

Making It Really Special



We want people to enjoy our country’s beautiful islands but we want them to do it responsibly. Otherwise, our children and their children may not get to enjoy what we have today.

Now about the proposed pricing. Most of the visitors to Redang are locals and personally, I don’t know anyone who can afford a RM1,600-per-night stay.

So it must be not for Malaysians.

Redang risks losing tourists to alternative destinations like Pulau Perhentian, or even Pukhet or Bali, which have become affordable now with cheap AirAsia flights.

I don’t think people are not willing to pay, but it has to be substantiated.

Perhaps packages can be tailored for different segments of the market.

The problem with scuba divers, though, is that we are typically not fussy. We are happy with a decent room, decent buffet meals and Internet access.

We don’t need LCD TV, Astro or mini-bar. We don’t spend much time in our rooms anyway. Which is what budget (RM320 for 3D/2N) accommodations like Redang Pelangi Resort where I stayed at, is already offering.

So it’s going to take a lot — A LOT — of imagination on the part of the resort and the State government to come up with something that will make us pay RM1,600 a night.

One idea is underwater videography. Based on my experience, resorts can make a handsome profit from this.

On a diving trip in Sipadan last year, someone approached our group, offering to shoot videos of our dives, edit them and burn them to DVD.

Guess what? We agreed. We paid him RM1,000 on top of the RM2,000-plus per person that we had already paid for accommodation. But we got a nice little something to bring home.

People on holiday want to relax. They don’t want to have to fiddle with anything, much less cameras or video editing. But they want to bring back memories. If the place is special enough, and if the price is right, they will be more than willing to pay.

MAN not the only ones to blame

ALL it takes is just one careless act by an irresponsible holidaymaker to destroy reefs that take hundreds of years to form.

But human interaction is not the only cause of damage to the fragile marine environment. There are a host of other factors as well, many of which are beyond our control.

Corals are sensitive to water temperature and global warming has a catastrophic impact on coral reefs. Corals bleach and die when their upper temperature threshold is exceeded.

The El Nino phenomenon of 1998 destroyed much of the world’s coral reefs through mass bleaching. Some of these corals are still in recovery process now.

Other natural threats include storms and, on this side of Malaysia, monsoons. They bring about powerful waves that can damage corals and churn up seabed, causing sedimentation that can block sunlight needed by the coral.

And then, there’s disease. Bacteria, fungi and virus may attack coral polyps and kill them.

There is also damage by reef animals. Crown of Thorn starfish is among the biggest natural predator of corals. A single starfish can devour as much as six square metres of coral a year. Therefore, an outbreak in their number can destroy entire reefs.

Which is why, during ocean clean-up exercises, divers hunt for the Crown of Thorn.

Other threats include damage caused by fishermen through destructive fishing practices (using cyanide or explosives) and fishing boats that anchor on coral reefs.

A broadclub cuttlefish crawling on the seabed

TAN BEE HONG

Fields of mudan hua burst forth in full bloom in Luoyang, China every year in April and May. TAN BEE HONG is on cloud nine enjoying the full splendour of the peonies

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The artist from Beijing concentrates on her sketches of mudan hua" border="0"> The artist from Beijing concentrates on her sketches of mudan hua

A SUBTLE fragrance fills the air in Luoyang come every spring and summer as its official flower, the mudan hua (peony) bursts forth in vibrant shades and colours. No wonder poets like Li Bai were inspired to compose three verses on the spot about the beauty of the flower.

He also wrote one at the request of Emperor Xuan Zong, comparing the peony to concubine Yang Gui Fei, one of the Four Classic Beauties of Chinese history.

“The famous flower and the beautiful lady enjoy each other’s company. It is a scene that always brings a smile to the emperor’s face.”

April is the month of the peony and locals as well as thousands and thousands of visitors converge on Luoyang to admire the flower.

Long revered by the royalty, the peony has been cultivated for three thousand years. There are, today, over 1,000 varieties of peonies in Luoyang and some have single layer petals while others have multiple petals. As for the colours, these range from white and red to yellow, violet, pink, blue, green and even black though I didn’t get to see this variety. Some, I am told, bloom a certain colour and age into a secondary shade.

Royal Decree

There are many legends about the peony, and one of them tells of the peony’s defiance of the rich and powerful, and its refusal to yield to brute force.

One snowy day in 691AD, China’s only female Emperor Wu Zetian had this sudden whimsical desire to view her garden in full bloom, so she issued an edict ordering all the plants to bloom during the night for her to admire during her walk the next day. Sounds like King Canute ordering the tide to recede, doesn’t it?

Only, in this tale, all the plants in the garden, awed by the power of the Wu, began to bud and bloom that night, except the peony.

Humiliated, Wu flew into a rage and banished all the peonies in the Tang capital of Chang’an to Luoyang where the peonies produced even larger and more beautiful flowers. Since then, Luoyang has been called the Home Of The Peonies.

Where To Go

In Luoyang, you can admire the peony everywhere. But for a truly spectacular sight, go to Wangcheng Park, China National Flower Garden, International Peony Garden, Xiyuan Park, Shengzhou Peony Park and Luoyang Peony Garden.

Also known as King Of The Flower Kingdom, Queen Of Flowers and First Of 10,000 Flowers, the peony is China’s national flower and a symbol of happiness and prosperity.

At the International Peony Garden, I spot, sitting in the midst of peonies in full bloom, an artist patiently sketching the flower. She says she has come all the the way from Beijing by train just to catch the peony in bloom as Luoyang is where the most beautiful flowers can be found.

It’s not just the beauty of the peony that attracts. The flower was believed to have medicinal properties. According to the Shen Nong Classic of Materia Medica (Qin Dynasty, 221-206BC), the peony has cooling effects and boosts blood circulation. It is also used to scent pastries and other dishes.

LOW MEI MAY

LOW MEI MAY is smitten by the beauty of Taiping’s lake garden and the town’s various attractions

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Raintree Café serves both local and western fare" border="0"> Raintree Café serves both local and western fare Former tin mines, now tranquil man-made lake" border="0"> Former tin mines, now tranquil man-made lake

Former tin mines, now tranquil man-made lake

MALAYSIA’S oldest lake garden sits right in front of the hotel. On that point alone, Flemington Hotel must be the choice for holidaymakers or travellers staying in Taiping, one of the country’s oldest and loveliest towns.

Taiping, in north Perak, is a small town — serene, tranquil and quiet. But to be able to wake up, look out of the window and see the greeneries and the blue of a large man-made lake is heavenly.

The hotel itself isn’t an architectural wonder. It’s simple and functional. Which is just fine, as there’s no need to compete with the beauty of the lake gardens and further away, Bukit Larut (formerly, Maxwell Hill).

Taiping Lake Gardens beckons — for a walk in the morning or evening; picnics or jogging; or to just lie down on the grass to read. Or visit Taiping Zoo within the vicinity of the lake to hear the roaring of tigers or chirping of birds, among other animals. Taiping Zoo opens day and night.

The hotel lobby can be very busy as the coffeehouse — the aptly-named Raintree Cafè — is right next to the reception area but do not fret as you can always rest your eyes on the greenery outside while waiting to be checked in. It is no wonder that Flemington’s Chinese restaurant, Hu Jing Ge, is popular for wedding receptions.

Another popular spot at the hotel is its lounge and sky bar, located on the rooftop.

The rooftop is the best spot to view the lake gardens, its surroundings and Taiping itself.

Also on the rooftop is a small swimming pool.

For a three-star hotel, Flemington boasts value-for-money facilities. The rooms are equipped with 32-inch LCD television with selected satellite TV, wireless Internet connection, hot & cold facilities, safe deposit boxes, hairdryer and even a work desk.

The hotel offers single, king or queen size beds.

Finding the hotel is not a problem even if you have never been to Taiping. Just head to the lake gardens and directional signs will take you to the hotel’s doorstep but if you do get lost in the vicinity, just enjoy the lake gardens for you will surely find Flemington.

Don’t worry about the scorching sun as the large century-old raintrees on both sides of the roads within the lake gardens provide excellent shade.

Besides the lake gardens, Taiping boasts of many firsts — the oldest prison, the oldest railway station, the oldest museum and the oldest hill station. But you don’t have to be of retirement age to make Taiping your home as you can learn so much about the history of this country by just visiting the town.

Another plus for Taiping is its delicious and cheap food. If your stomach has space for only one thing, the popiah is a must-have. It is available in a coffeeshop along the main road near the lake gardens.

Fast Facts

Hotel
1 Jalan Semanea Saman
Taiping, Perak
Tel: 05-820-7777

Getting There
When you reach Taiping town, follow the signboard to Taiping Lake Gardens and drive along the road surrounding the lake. Flemington Hotel is on the left.

First Impression
New and busy.

Rooms
Total of 116 well furnished rooms and suites. Four types of room — Superior, Lake View Premier, Junior Suites and Lake View Executive Suites. Equipped with LCD television and satellite channels. Choice of single, king or queen size beds

Facilities
Individually-controlled air-conditioning, hot and cold water taps, work desk, broadband Internet access facility, direct dial phone, tea and coffee making facilities, safe deposit boxes and hairdryer. Iron and boards are available upon request, laundry, room-service and 24-hour security.

Rates
Please call for their promotional room rates.

Overall Service
Good.

F& B Outlets
Raintree Cafè, Hu Jing Ge Chinese Restaurant, Flemington Lounge and Sky Bar

Places within walking distance
Taiping Lake Gardens, Taiping Zoo & Night Safari, Commonwealth War Memorial and Burmese Pool

Other places of
interest
Malaysia’s oldest train station — Taiping Station; Malaysia’s oldest Prison — Goal Prison; Malaysia’s oldest hill station — Maxwell Hill; Malaysia’s oldest museum — Perak State Musuem; and perhaps the best popiah in the country.

PUTRI ZANINA

The Twelve Apostles is only one reason why thousands of people make their way along Australia’s Great Ocean Road. PUTRI ZANINA finds out what else there is to do and see

THE rotor blades spin furiously. Within seconds, the helicopter levitates from the tarmac and we’re in the air. The blue sky envelops us from all sides as the chopper pulls away from the land. We whirl over an immense sea of blue with white fingers of giant waves pounding rugged cliffs lining the spectacularly long and curvy coastline. The hinterland is a carpet of green, broken only by a narrow snaking road with moving vehicles growing to mere dots as we circle higher and higher into the sky. It is an awesome feeling. Then, we hear the pilot’s voice above the roar of the engine: “There, the Twelve Apostles!” So these are the world-famous Apostles — the stunning, larger than life creations of nature that have attracted thousands of people to the Port Campbell National Park along Australia’s Great Ocean Road that measures 285kms from Torquay to Warrnambool. Hugging the shore on the south-west coast of Victoria, the Great Ocean Road is hailed as one of the world’s most spectacular coastal drives and the Twelve Apostles as one of its major attractions. Natural Sculptures Seen from the air, it’s as if there’s a face-off between the rocks and the sea. The high waves pound the towering yellow, sandy cliffs and as their faces seem to “blend”, it’s really hard to say which feature is hitting which. This dramatic natural confrontation has been going on for some 20 million years. Through the sheer force of wind and waves, huge limestone rocks have been carved out of the cliff shore. The waves have eaten away at the rocks at sea level, forming caves on each side of the headland. The caves eventually crumble, forming arches which then collapse, leaving rock stacks. The Twelve Apostles, some rising as high as 11-storey buildings are among these giant rock stacks forlornly holding their own in the swirling waters of the Southern Ocean. Actually, there are no longer 12 Apostles. A few have succumbed to erosion and are now low platforms or reefs. Even when all 12 existed, it was not possible to see them all at once as some were hidden behind headlands or obscured by other rock stacks. They will all disappear some day, so it’s best to go and see them now.

Other rock formations include the London Bridge (could it be falling down soon?) and the Loch Ard Gorge. Here, in 1878, the Loch Ard struck a reef at the tip of Mutton Bird Island and sank, leaving only two survivors out of 54 passengers.

As much as the Twelve Apostles look spectacular, it’s funny how in the last century, they were simply called Sow And Piglets. It was said that Mutton Bird Island, where the Loch Ard went under, was the “sow” and the smaller rock stacks the “piglets”. To continue calling them the Sow And Piglets seemed undignified so Twelve Apostles was thought to be the more apt name.

Though the chopper run by the 12 Apostles Helicopters lasts 15 minutes, the view of the Twelve Apostles, Lord Ard Gorge and the Shipwreck Coast as well as London Bridge, Two Mile Bay, Port Campbell, the long coastline and the Great Ocean Road is incredibly beautiful.

Climbing Up the Cliffs Apart from the chopper ride, you can also walk to the well-protected Twelve Apostles Park near the Heliport launch site. An underpass and a meandering boardwalk lead to vantage viewpoints perched on sloping coastal cliffs. All along the walk, you can see some unique plants that have survived despite the harsh winds, salt-laden air and shallow and infertile soils. There is an abundance of native local plants such as coast cushion bush, silvery tussock grass and coast beard-heath thriving on the undulating rough terrain. The viewpoint platforms offer a truly breathtaking view of the rock stacks and the sea. Strong balmy air sweeps the coast and the waves pound the cliffs way below. Beneath the waters is a remarkable seascape with towering walls covered in colourful seaweeds and sponges that support schools of fishes.

Wrap all these together and the Twelve Apostles Park make for one of the most dramatic sights in the world.

One Great Loop The Great Ocean Road is part of the Great Southern touring route covering over 400kms of coastal road and inland highways traversing scenic landscapes and seascapes. Built between 1919 and 1932, it not only provided work for returning military men but also served as a memorial to soldiers who died in World War One. The far-sightedness of making it a tourist route even then has paid off as it is now a destination of world repute and has very much been left in its rugged wild form. Many tourists begin their drive from Melbourne via the West Gate Bridge and following the Princess Highway towards Ballarat, a rustic town that harks back to the gold rush era. Sovereign Hill in Ballarat has been recreated to become a gold mining town of the 1860s and a stop there is well worth your time. From there, it’s on to Warrnambool before starting the drive along the Great Ocean Road towards Torquay and then returning to Melbourne. It’s one big loop that you simply can’t rush through. There are just so many things to see and do, and many roads to detour. Rivers and creeks have walking tracks that lead to gorges, waterfalls, caves and rainforests. Pick a beach and leave your footprints in the sand. See the sun rise over the ocean or watch it go down over farmland dotted with cottages and windmills so rustic, you’ll just simply not want to leave.

Inland roads, which are mostly one lane each side, are flanked by bushes and towering gum trees interspersed with flat lands against hills and valleys. Strong cross winds often hit certain stretches and you may feel your car shake for a bit. Take power naps at lay-bys along the way — there are signs saying “Droopy eyes? Power nap now!” For safety reasons, it’s best you take heed, as the journey is long and some straight roads can make you feel drowsy.

Charming Coastal Towns Spending a night at Warrnambool is recommended. Set against the gentle arc of Lady Bay, the port town has sheltered beaches and verdant gardens. From May to September, it’s one of the best places in the world for watching whales and it’s also one of the few cities in the world with a whale nursery. This is located at Logans Beach where platforms are erected for viewing Southern Right Whales that come in to calve every year.

Warrnambool is the capital of the Shipwreck Coast and as its name suggests, it’s a perilous section of the Victorian coastline nestled between Moonlight Head and Port Fairy that’s the site for more than 160 shipwrecks and where hundreds of lives were lost at sea.

Much of the city’s history is showcased in the Flagstaff Hill Maritime Village where original buildings, a lighthouse and a port, complete with ships, have been restored. The place also recreates how rugged the life was in Warrnambool during the 19th Century. The collection of shipwreck relics including the famous porcelain peacock which was washed up amongst the wreckage from the Loch Ard in 1878, can be seen in the museum there. A touching story titled Shipwrecked is a permanent part of the museum’s attraction. Through the clever play of sound, laser and water, it tells the story of the Loch Ard disaster. The audience is taken through the journey in a 3D theatre that lets them feel as if they are sinking with the ship into the ocean depths.

From Warrnambool, you’ll drive past the charming coastal towns of Port Campbell, Princetown, Apollo Bay, Lorne and Anglesea before ending with Torquay. While Port Campbell is the show-stopper with its natural sculptures of breathtaking beauty, Apollo Bay, west of the more steep stretches of the Great Ocean Road and east of the rainforest of Great Otway National Park in Cape Otway is the paradise by the sea. It spreads out along a sweeping bay and nestles into the lush greenery of the Otway Ranges. Coastal hamlets, fishing villages, trendy restaurants, cafes and B&Bs make Apollo Bay one of the main holiday resorts along Great Ocean Road.

To ride the waves, there’s Torquay, dubbed the surfing capital of Australia along the Surf Coast, also home to Anglesea with beaches glistening in the briny air and golf fairways stretching for as far as the eyes can see. But often, there are more kangaroos on the fairways than golfers teeing off! Then’s there’s Lorne, with picture-perfect scenery where the Erskine River meets the Loutit Bay.

All along the drive, there are many pit stops where you can feast your eyes on rugged cliffs, blue seas and miles of golden beaches.

How To Get There Malaysia Airlines, AirAsia X and Emirates have direct flights to Melbourne. Rent a car in Melbourne to go on your own self-drive tour of the Great Ocean Road which is part of Victoria’s Great Southern Touring Route. From Melbourne, you can head inland to Geelong or to Warrnambool via the Princess Highway (3½ hours drive) or via the Great Ocean Road (5½ hours).

For more info on the Great Ocean Road, go to www.greatoceanroad.org or www.visitvictoria.com Where To Stay There are many accommodation choices in Melbourne, Warrnambool and all other coastal towns. If you stay in Warrnambool, a good choice is The Sebel Deep Blue (www.mantradeepblue.com.au) located on a tiny peninsula between Lady Bay and Stringray Bay with all rooms facing the magnificent sea vista. The resort is 10 minutes’ drive to the Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum (www.flagstaffhill.com). Twelve Apostles Helicopters’ Scenic Tours The company operating the Twelve Apostles Helicopters’ scenic tours has a heliport in Port Campbell. Four tour packages are available, ranging from a 10-minute tour of Port Campbell and the Twelve Apostles at AU$95 (RM294) per person to a 50-minute tour of Port Campbell right to Cape Otway (AU$395 or RM1,220 per person). Child under three gets to fly for free.

For details, go to www.12apostleshelicopters.com.au

Melbourne certainly serves up its share of culinary and cultural delights. We had a sampling when we did a walking tour called the Hidden Secrets Art and Design Tour (www.hiddensecretstours.com).

The two-hour walk, conducted by the founder Fiona Sweetman, gave a glimpse into how the city had given space for graffiti to flourish as a street art. Art gallery visits were also supposed to be in the itinerary but they were not open yet when we embarked on our early morning tour.

We also had a look at the coffee culture of the city’s denizens. The tour normally ends, with coffee but we had to rush off for lunch. A pity, because the cafés looked very enticing.

A short walk across to the Southbank along the Yarra River (which has some of the best views of the city skyline from ground level) saw us at our lunch spot, Left Bank (www.leftbankmelbourne.com.au), which is owned by the Emirates Group. It was a set meal, and one of the best lunches I’ve ever had. If you should ever find yourself in this city and have no need to stretch your Aussie dollars, then please try and get a reservation here. It’s worth the trouble.

For some reason, our organisers seemed to think that Malaysians overseas craved Malaysian and Asian food, so dinner that night was at a Thai restaurant called Sawasdee. Run by the Malaysian-born Francis Lim, the restaurant serves food tweaked more for Western taste-buds.

It was an early morning wake-up call the next day as we rushed off to a Melburnian institution, the Queen Victoria Market (www.qvm.com.au). It’s been operating since 1978 and serves the locals’ daily needs. It’s also the place to pick up souvenirs. The market operates from 6am to 3pm but is closed on Mondays and Wednesdays.

A tip, if you’re interested: Go around 8am because that’s when most of the vendors are already in and all set up.

Our next stop was Sovereign Hill (www.sovereignhill.com.au) in Ballarat, more than an hour’s drive from Melbourne. Meeting us there was the affable Ben, a Bluey (that’s an Aussie term for redheads). He shepherded us in our walkabout.

Sovereign Hill is a recreation of the settlement of Ballarat during its first 10 years following the discovery of gold in 1851, from the buildings (a few are original) to the costumes the staff wear. There’s much here to keep one occupied, like the pouring of gold, going down a mine, playing a game of bowling (a very different version, mind you), having your meals in an old diner and panning for gold.

Yes, there are remnants still to be found in the streams, and you can actually get some flecks. Just be careful you don’t get gold fever.

They also have theme tours and overnight stays where you dress up in period costumes. But the real fun is seeing people re-enact scenes from yesteryear and staying very much in character. There’s a treasure trove of acting talent to be mined here.

That night back in Melbourne, dinner was at Little Malaysia, and aptly enough, the keyword here is “little”.

Our next destination was Phillip Island. First we drove through the beautiful Dandenong Ranges and on to the beautiful Yarra Valley. Our first stop was the Warratina Lavender Farm (www.warratinalavender.com.au), a family business run by Annemarie and Peter Manders.

Annmarie herself took us through how she and her staff harvest the lavender to make products from food to cosmetics to household goods. Fascinating! They also have a tea room where they serve delightful lavender scones and honey. The best time to visit is from November to January before harvesting. That’s when you can see a vista of wonderful shades of purple with the lavenders in full bloom.

After that came the fruit feast at Rayners’ Stonefruit Orchard (www.raynerstonefruit.com.au). Normally, the fruit-tasting tour lasts an hour, but as we were running late yet again, we had to rush things. Owner Len Rayner took us on his multi-seater tractor, stopping here and there for us to taste the delectable variety of peach, nectarine, apricot and plums and all the hybrids found in his farm.

They, too, have cafés and loads of products on sale. The orchard is a highly recommended stop between November and April.

At Phillip Island, it was a quick pizza and pasta dinner at Isola Di Capri owned by the Fumagali family who has run the establishment for 35 years. I truly felt like a stuffed koala by the time dinner was done.

The next day proved memorable as we visited the Phillip Island Chocolate Factory (www.phillipislandchocolatefactory.com.au) run by the Malaysian-born L. Kondanapanny and his family. He prefers to be called Panny, the name he markets his chocolates under.

It’s a famous brand here, and the chocolates are certainly some of the best I have ever tasted. A tour of the factory (you need to pay for this, though) to see how the chocolates are made is also part of the experience. It’s filled with interactive experiences and is as delightful as the chocolates.

There’s a café, and Panny went out of his way to prepare a nasi lemak lunch for us. It was heavenly!

The pièce de résistance came on our last night in Melbourne, when we had dinner in the famous Colonial Tramcar Restaurant (www.tramrestaurant.com.au). You dine in an old-style tram as it passes through some of Melbourne’s famous landmarks including the trendy St Kilda.

We had no complaints about the food and the bubbly. The star of the evening, though, was undoubtedly head waiter, Spanish John. He proved to be a rapier wit and was very adept at taking the mickey out of the diners — so much so that sometimes I failed to look out to appreciate the scenery.

By REVATHI MURUGAPPAN

Nature lovers looking for their outdoor adventure fix should head to Dalat, a town that is considered the jewel of Vietnam’s central highlands.

Are you kidding? You guys must be on crack!” exclaimed my dear cousin Sumi when we told her we had signed her up for an advanced canyoning adventure.

You see, it would require us to hike, abseil, jump off cliffs, swim and slide down rocks to get into the canyons.

A brochure from Phat Tire Ventures, our adventure operator in Vietnam, read, “The advanced route is for those in moderately good physical condition, looking for a more extreme challenge. The rappels are more technical and are wet drops as opposed to dry. This means you are in the waterfall and not next to it.”

That got me excited.

Our group of four was visiting Dalat, a town considered the jewel of Vietnam’s central highlands and home to many hill-tribe minority groups, when we decided to be adventurous. Renowned for its cool climate, scenic mountains and innumerable streams, Dalat is a favourite among adventure buffs and honeymooners. The canyoning here is highly recommended by most travel guidebooks.

“A bit of exercise won’t kill you,” I retorted, as our fellow buddies Kumaran and Megan nodded in agreement. Sumi, whose daily exercise consists of crossing a 25m pedestrian bridge to hail a cab to work, scowled. This was a suicide mission which she only grudgingly consented to.

Our affable guide Ro picked us up the next morning to begin our journey to Datanla Falls. When he saw Sumi’s troubled expression, he immediately put her at ease.

“It’s OK if you’re not that fit. I’ll help you along. It’s compulsory for all our guides to have good eyesight because of the dangers the activity poses, so don’t worry, I won’t lose sight of you. If need be, I’ll carry you on my back!” joked Ro.

All Phat Tire guides undergo an intensive 30-hour Wilderness First Aid course designed by the Wilderness Medicine Institute and the National Outdoor Leadership School (NOLS). They have to go through a refresher First Aid course each year, plus every one of them has abseiling qualifications from the Singapore Mountaineering Federation. We were in safe hands.

From the highway, you can see the 350m cascading falls. We walked on a path that first passed through a forest of pines and continued steeply down the hill into a rainforest, which was our beginning point. Here we met Ro’s colleague Khaan, and two other British tourists, John and Clarissa, who were joining us on the adventure.

Khaan showed us the ropes and explained the basics of knot tying, harness wearing and proper abseiling techniques while ensuring all of us had a trial run on the practice slope. He emphasised how to take big jumps to avoid the gaping holes and crevices on the hill, and, once he was satisfied we had it down, it was all systems go.

First up was a vertical 20m dry cliff, which looked menacing from the top.

“So which one of you is going to go first?” he asked, looking around for volunteers. “We have five rappels, three body slides and a free fall so everyone gets a chance to go first.”

Sumi darted to the back of the group. John, who had done numerous rock climbing and abseiling trips, put his hand up. Despite his experience, he froze for a few minutes at the starting point and struggled to take that first step.

Khaan coaxed him on.

“Release the rope bit by bit and position your foot on the edge. Then make the first jump. Ro will guide you from the bottom.”

Beads of sweat trickled down John’s face as he hesitated. Eventually, he let go of the rope slowly and screamed triumphantly once he descended.

“It’s not that bad, folks!” he shouted. “It’s only the first step that’s nerve-racking!”

One by one, we abseiled — even Sumi managed all the jumps without scraping herself.

After that, the second rappel was a breeze. It was a 15m cliff which led to a stream. We crossed it and proceeded to the next equally easy rappel, before hiking a trail to the body slide portion. Ro removed his top and showed us how it was done. Slide down on your butt, drop into the lake and swim to the bank. There were two “slides” to explore and this was pure fun. Everyone was having a blast and had several attempts at it.

Ro then mentioned that it was time to “slide the other way”.

“Head down? No way! What if I hit my head on the rocks?” I protested.

Ro brushed my protests aside and proceeded to use me for demonstration. He held my legs while I shut my eyes tight. When my arms were positioned correctly, he let me go and I slid smoothly into the lake. The adrenaline rush felt great.

After all that activity, the Vietnamese boys made us yummy sandwiches, and a simple yet scrumptious lunch was served. We traded stories and John impressed us with his chilli eating skills. Yes, the Brit could bite into the green chillies and it seemed to have no effect on him.

Next up was the free fall, where we had to jump 6m off a cliff and into a pool. This was akin to bungee-jumping, except there was no elastic rope to pull you back up. On the count of three, you leapt off. Although a seemingly easy jump, some dawdled as fear crept in, so it took a while before this activity was completed.

We also had to wait for John who had the runs from his chilli binging.

We hiked further into the canyon where a breathtaking 26m waterfall greeted us. It was my turn to go first. It looked daunting from the top, and Khaan warned us the path was extremely slippery and there would be moments we might be gasping for air as the water trashed our faces.

I began my descent cautiously but slipped once, hitting my elbow against the rocks. I found my footing and continued, but about 5m before the bottom, the rope ran out! I was horrified that Khaan could have miscalculated the rope length.

Ro bellowed, “You’ve got to jump and swim towards me.”

And so, bleeding elbow and all, I dived in and swam. We had a few accidents on this rappel — Kumaran lost his spectacles, Megan hit her head on the rocks and Clarissa sustained cuts. Sumi was unscathed.

Finally, we came to our last rappel, known as the “washing machine”. The bottom of the cliff was not visible, and we had no idea what lurked beneath.

Khaan said, “This is probably the most challenging one although the distance to the bottom is only about 12m. Halfway through your descent, you will see a swirl of water between the boulders — like a washing machine. Make sure you go in between the boulders and let go of the rope once you’re down. You’ll be spinning for a few seconds but the current will eventually bring you out and drift you down where Ro will be waiting.”

This sounded scary, and because of the loud crashing of the water below, Khaan reminded us that we wouldn’t be able to hear anyone. Since Sumi hadn’t gone first, it was her turn.

“Ok, what’s the big deal? I conquered all the rest so this should be easy,” she chirped, putting her safety helmet on.

That’s the spirit, we chorused!

Khaan asked again, “You sure you’ve got my instructions down?”

She gave a thumbs-up and took a few steps off the cliff. Once the “washing machine” came into view, Sumi started to pale.

“I ca . . . caa . . . can’t do this. It’s too difficult. Please pull me up!” Sumi pleaded.

We all offered words of encouragement and Khaan persuaded her to go on.

“It’s not as scary as it looks and there’s no way to come up now,” Khaan continued, turning to wink at me.

“Do you want me to repeat the instructions one more time?”

“No, really, it’s too scary. I really cannot do this,” begged the poor girl, tears welling up. “I’m not even a good swimmer.”

Khaan yelled, “Come on Sumi, you can do it! Just take baby steps and everything will be fine.”

We all went silent. She followed the instructions and disappeared below. Seconds passed but no Sumi in sight. A minute passed and still no sign of her. We could see Ro’s eyes frantically scanning the area. I started to panic and my heart beat faster. I had put her through this. What if she couldn’t come out of the whirlpool? How would I tell my uncle and aunt?

Suddenly, we saw a body floating down the river. Ro deftly jumped in and pulled her to safety. Once she got her bearings, Sumi stood up and beat her chest like a crazy woman. Everyone cheered and I heaved a sigh of relief. Indeed, the last rappel wasn’t easy and anxiety kicked in. However, we successfully emerged from the “washing machine”.

“Congratulations! You all did it,” said Khaan. “Now, it’s time to navigate back to the top. It should take about 30 minutes.”

We began our ascent as Kumaran and Khaan took turns to push and pull Sumi along, promising her champagne and caviar at the hotel.

Canyoning here had been a hard day’s work but Dalat’s evergreen forests, lakes and waterfalls combined with the myriad butterflies, birds and squirrels made every moment worthwhile.

Getting there

From Ho Chi Minh City, the easiest way to reach Dalat (308km away) is via plane using Vietnam Airlines or tour buses. Though every bus company will tell you it takes only five hours, the actual journey takes around eight hours and costs RM20.

Canyoning knowledge

Canyoning is an adventure sport that became popular in the 90s. It involves exploring a canyon using a variety of techniques including walking, abseiling, swimming, hiking, scrambling and leaping.

Canyons can be very easy or extremely difficult, though emphasis in the sport is usually on aesthetics and fun, rather than pure difficulty.

However, don’t attempt to go into a canyon with just a buddy and no guide as it can pose a high risk. Pick guides who are intimately familiar with every pool slide and waterfall in a particular canyon.

In Vietnam, adventure travel company Phat Tire Ventures (www.phattireventures.com) comes highly recommended.

Run by Brian and Kim Vierra, the company emphasises safety and many of their guides have been mapping courses for programmes on Discovery channel.

By S. S. YOGA
Pictures by S. S. YOGA, EUREKA SKYDECK88, MELBOURNE AQUARIUM, TOURISM VICTORIA & A MAZE N THINGS

yoga@thestar.com.my

If you’re looking for a city from which you can enjoy urban, rustic and even wildlife experiences, then say hello to Melbourne.

It was the wee hours of a cold morning when we arrived in Melbourne — we being the Malaysian media group assembled by Tourism Australia for a familiarisation tour of the city and its surrounding areas to publicise the recently introduced Emirates Kuala Lumpur-Melbourne route.

There were just the six of us, plus Tourism Australia public relations manager Amanda Chong and Weber Shandwick consultant Adli Abdul Karim, but lo and behold, our hosts had booked a 50-seater bus to take us around on our four-day tour.

It must be true then what they say about the Aussies: “They think big”. And as I was soon to discover, Melbourne was indeed big on culture and arts, natural wonders, food, sports and thrills of many kinds.

It was still drizzling after we had checked into our hotel, which meant it was a bit chilly.

Many had warned us of Melbourne’s “bipolar” weather, with its Jekyll and Hyde personality which could go from freezing cold to freaking hot in a single day. We were just thankful that the thermometer was not in the 40s like it had been the previous summer.

What’s truly to be treasured is Australia’s unique wildlife, of which we saw quite a bit. After a special walking tour and lunch, we wound up at the Melbourne Aquarium (www.melbourneaquarium.com.au). Our group had split up, with one going off to check out the Muslim communities in the city. They were supposed to meet us here but were running considerably late, so we went ahead.

Just seeing the delightful and amusing Gentoo and King penguins justified the price of admission into the aquarium but there was considerably more within to thrill, entertain and educate one. There were the stingrays, sharks, jellyfishes and even the oddballs of the Neptunian world.

The aquarium also has some nice interactive displays and a huge 2.2-million-litre Oceanarium. Nothing beats having smiley stingrays swimming overhead. We too left with smiles on our faces thanks to the superb family-themed experience here.

Our final stop for the day was at the fantastic Eureka Skydeck88 (www.eurekaskydeck.com.au). It’s at the 88th level of a fully-residential building and is the highest public vantage point in the southern hemisphere. One gets an amazing bird’s eye view from the 360° observation deck with its floor-to-ceiling glass windows.

An additional thrill here is The Edge — a glass-cube extension that projects 3m out of the building and leaves you with the unnerving sensation of being suspended 300m above ground. If you have only time to do one thing in Melbourne, make sure it is this.

As we were running late, the only proper allocated time for shopping on this tour was shelved, and we rushed straight to dinner. It being a Friday, most shops were open till 9pm. On other days, everything basically shuts down by 6pm.

On the second day, we visited the Ballarat Wildlife Park (www.wildlifepark.com.au). It was truly a magical experience to be able to feed the friendly kangaroos and to watch the infamous Tasmanian devils being fed. And the snacking continued with the emus. What was memorable, though, was getting up close with the adorable sleepy koalas.

We checked out of our hotel the next day as we were going to spend the night at the world-famous Phillip Island, 90 minutes by car from the city. But first we made two stops — once at a lavender farm and another at a stonefruit farm (see: Delights galore), followed by lunch. Fully stuffed, we bused off to Phillip Island.

On arrival, we immediately hopped on a cruise (www.wildlifecoastcruises.com.au) to Seal Rocks. The seas can be quite choppy, so those prone to having motion sickness (like moi) should take the pills half an hour before the trip. That evening the sea was rougher than usual so the boat couldn’t get up close to the rocks where 15,000 fur seals frolicked.

That’s right: 15,000! And they certainly made themselves heard and, urm, smelt. Eau de phew, anyone? But it was worth the queasiness to catch this natural spectacle of so many lumbering bodies packed into a relatively tight space.

The true gem of Victoria and Australia, though, is really the Penguin Parade at the Phillip Island Nature Park (www.penguins.org.au). People come here to watch the Little Penguins, who are principally monogamous, return for the night after a whole day out trawling for food. Before that happens, they can get a run-through of this aquatic bird’s life at an interactive display set up nearby.

Interestingly enough, some of the displays allow you to peek into the actual burrows of the penguins. Some of them were still there as it was moulting season and they couldn’t go out to fish. The island is dotted all over with their burrows.

Vehicle owners are warned to check that no penguins have crawled underneath their vehicles before starting their engine. (We unfortunately came across a dead penguin on the road when we drove back to our apartments.)

We were lucky to be given spots at the Penguin Plus viewing platform. Penguin landing was only expected at 6.45pm, but the birds had other plans, and a slew of them arrived early. There’s nothing quite like seeing these little creatures waddling their way at varying speeds up to their burrows.

We decided to walk by the side of the fenced-up pathways to get an even closer look at the creatures. We spotted some baby penguins mewing (yes, they mew like kittens) for their parents who had not arrived. And even more heartwarming was the spectacle of a family of penguins reunited.

It’s pretty certain you will go “Aww!” at this sight.

The next day, we took a break from nature so as to be amazed by the ingenuity of mankind. At A Maze N Things (www.amazenthings.com.au), clever optical illusions and other neat tricks, many of them interactive, made for a magical experience. But there was no magic or trickery involved in the 6.5m Look Out! Slide, which entails a hairy free-fall and a steep slide.

All of us had a go at it, and it was so thrilling, that oops, I did it again,!

After that, it was back to visiting the wildlife — this time, the koalas, right opposite at the Koala Conservation Centre (run by the same non-profit organisation that oversees the penguin centre). We saw the sleepy-heads (they are nocturnal creatures) resting in the treetops. It’s good to see them being protected as there are only about 40 koalas left on Phillip Island.

As our trip came to an end and we sat in the cosy Emirates Lounge to await our flight back, I concluded that this had been among my most memorable trips.

Given the time and opportunity, I would love to visit again; this time maybe to sit at a splendid Melburnian café sipping coffee. Or to make the most of some of the best shopping in Australia. Or to check out the numerous other attractions on offer.

Yes, with so much to do here, it all boils down to how much time you have.