TRAVEL

This island bears a lot of resemblance to the Similans under the surface, the highlights are a ridge or plateau to the south and a pinnacle to the north. The ridge is covered in soft coral and sea fans and also homes batfish, groupers and several nurse sharks. A reef along the west coast of North Twin makes a great spot for night dives where crustaceans and Spanish dancers are common.
Depth: 10 - 40m Viz: 20 - 40m Currents: Can be strong Getting there : Liveaboard Best months: Jan / May

This spot is also called Shark Cave Island and has three rocks rising from 40 metres deep to above the surface, it offers some of the best marine life in the Archipelago and cannot all be seen in one single dive. Huge shoals of snappers and fusiliers swirl around you as you begin the descent down the coral covered walls, it is one of the better spots to find harlequin shrimp and harlequin ghost pipefish. For the thrill seekers there is a huge canyon to the north of the middle island and leads to a cave at around 16 metres, the entrance is usually guarded by several grey reef sharks that may lose their shyness and swim upto you if you stay quiet and motionless. The tunnel is around 20 metres long and has many cup corals and sponges along its walls, take care of possible surge within the tunnel.

Depth: 10 - 30m Viz: 20 - 40m Currents: Can be strong Getting there : Liveaboard Best months: Jan / May

A dramatic underwater terrain greets you at this divesite. It includes a long underwater arch and tunnel where large tawny nurse sharks are often seen resting or even guarding. The tunnel leads from one side of the island to the other and is completely dark in the middle. The soft limestone island is more like a series of pinnacles than one rock, this creates crevaces for other marine life to hide and a playground for reef sharks and some large triggerfish and stingrays. Western Rocky Pinnacle This is around 20 km north of the island and has many huge seafans at depth, also home to larger visiting pelagics who hang out along the ridges and canyons. Currents can be strong out here so tides must be observed.

Depth: 10 - 40m Viz: 20 - 40m Currents: Can be strong Getting there : Liveaboard Best months: Dec / May

Following several years of negotiations the Burmese (Myanmar) government finally opened up access to its waters in 1997 thus opening the door to countless unexplored and pristine dive sites. It truly is one of the last remaining diving frontiers on the planet. The Mergui Archipelago consists of over 800 islands, some of them the size of Singapore or Phuket and most of them uninhabited, the only dwellers on these waters are a few local sea gypsies. Despite the governments pressure to protect the archipelago evidence of dynamite fishing can still be found. However the authorities have finally awoken to the power of the tourist dollar and have consequently outlawed dynamite and shark fishing in the area. There is also an entrance fee to the area and all boats enter and depart via Kawthaung (Ko Song or Victoria Point are other names for it), just west of Ranong, Thailand. Diving here is simply awesome with great visibility, sharks and manta rays, and pristine coral reefs it offers only the best. See this article for more info on diving in Mergui. Burma liveaboard trips We now also offer liveaboard trips to the Mergui Archipelago from Thailand, visit the Similans, and world class dive sites of Black Rock, North and South Twins and Western Rocky from the luxury of a liveaboard, find out more here: Burma Liveaboards

Mergui Archipelago at a glance Geography : Hundreds of inshore and offshore islands and reefs. Accommodation : Liveabaord Highlights : Untouched dive spots, great visibility, sharks and marine life. Average cost of a dive : liveaboard only. Off Season : July / Oct

The Burma Banks are a series of submerged sea mounts in remote waters around 180km northwest of the Similans. Their name derives from the fact that they lie within the Exclusive Economic Zone of Burma. While there is good hard coral growth here, this is not the main attraction, big animals are what divers are looking for when they travel this far out into the ocean. Waters surrounding the Banks drop to 350 metres deep and they are considered one of the best places in the world to dive with sharks. With local populations of silvertip and nurse sharks that are not afraid of divers sightings are pretty much guaraunteed. Drift diving is very popular here as currents can be strong and unpredictable. As it is oceanic diving and very remote dive operators are often stricter on their safety procedures.

Burma Banks at a glance Geography : Submerged oceanic peaks Accommodation : Liveabaord Highlights : Remoteness, diving with sharks, drift diving. Average cost of a dive : liveaboard only Currents : Can be strong Viz : Upto 45m Off Season : July / Aug

Mactan is a coral island, 62sq km in area that lies just off the coast of Cebu. Because of its proximity to Cebu City and the international airport there, the diving infrastructure is well developed and visitors can literally be in the water within an hour or so of flying in. Whilst the island dosn't offer the best sites in the Visayas region, there is plenty of choice and it attracts thousands of divers every year. The east coast offers the best variety of sites along its walls and the Hilutangan Channel that seperates it from Olango Island is extremely deep, therefore offering good oppotunities to see larger fish life. Currents can be strong, so not every dive is suitable for beginners. As sites are numerous and in some instances very similar, they are grouped into 3 sections, one of which is the seperate Olango Island. Mactan is a favorite jumping-off point for excursions further afield around the Visayas region. Live-aboard safaris can be organised from here.

Mactan at a glance Accommodation : All types, plenty of tourist facilities Depth : 20-60m Viz : average 20m Currents : can be strong Average cost of a dive : $25 Dive Sites : 12+ Dive Operators : 10+ Getting there : International airport in Cebu City. Internal flights 1 hr from Manila. 45 mins to island Off Season : July to Sept

Situated in the middle of the Visayas region, Cebu has an international airport and is a great starting point from which to explore the whole region. Tour operators will gladly ferry you to the sites listed below and other neighbouring islands. Essentially, diving can be split into four main areas - Malapascua Island in the north, Mactan Island close to Cebu city off the east coast, Moalboal off the west and Sumilon in the south. By far and away the most popular spot is Mactan Island. Whilst it does not necessarily offer the best diving around Cebu, the proliferation of dive sites warrants a seperate section. The other three are covered here. Cebu City is the second busiest in the Phillipines and the island offers everything from fair diving on Mactan to more get-away locations. You can find wrecks, superb corals and small and large marine life all within a few hours journey of the capital.

Cebu at a glance Accommodation : all standards Currents : can be strong Average cost of a dive : Dive Sites : 20+ Dive Operators : 10+ Getting there : direct flights from Hong Kong, Singapore and Japan. Internal flights. Transfer to sites 1-3 hours. Off Season : July-February

Bohol is an Island Province in the Visayas region. Its capital is Tagbilaran and it is the 10th largest island in the Philippines. With Cebu to the west, Leyte to the northeast and Mindanao to the south, Bohol is surrounded by other islands. As a result, it is fairly sheltered from typhoons and the heaviest of the rains. Bohol has long been regarded as having some of the best diving in the Philippines, particularly along the southwest corner. Most of the sites are located on four islands that are easily reachable from the mainland, so the geographical structure of this section takes that form. The diversity of diving here makes Bohol attractive for all - from novices to the more experienced. Night diving, in certain areas, is especially good.

Bohol at a glance Accommodation : various and liveaboard safaris Currents : moderate to strong Average cost of a dive : Dive Sites : 13+ Dive Operators : 15+ Getting there : Flight to Cebu from Manila and fast ferry to Tagbilaran. Transfers to dive sites are up to 1 hr by road or sea from there. Off Season : July-Oct

By AGATHA MATAYUN

Fine wine in Switzerland? Who would have thought?

Precision watches, cuckoo clocks, fine cheese, chocolate, banking: Switzerland is well known for all of these. But wine? When I let out that I was going to Switzerland and that vineyards were on the itinerary, there was amazement all around.

Does Switzerland produce wine? — people wanted to know.

Frankly, I hadn’t had Swiss wine before, but I was to hear from the horse’s mouth that the Swiss really do produce wine, and good ones too. In fact, it is home to one of the oldest vineyards in the world, the Unesco World Heritage-listed Lavaux on the shores of Lake Geneva.

It was in Geneva that we, a group comprising five journalists and — for want of a better word — public relations “handler”, Azreen Mohamed, began our trip.

“So what watches do Swiss people prefer?” I asked Isabelle Hesse, the press officer from Tourism Geneva, and Gianna Loredan, our designated tour guide. Hesse seemed taken by surprise.

“Oh, we go for normal ones,” she said, whatever that meant.

After a rapid exchange with Loredan, she named Patek Philippe as one of the more popular brands. Whether or not this influenced the itinerary in the later part of the day, we don’t know. But we did find ourselves trotting to the Patek Philippe museum at Rue des Vieux-Grenadiers 7. Actually, it was either that or a lake cruise, but since it was a chilly afternoon, the idea of a boat ride did not appeal at all.

“If there was something about your city that you were proud of, what would it be?” we asked Loredan.

“The fact that it is an international city,” she replied immediately.

Geneva is HQ to some 200 international organisations, most of which are located around the Place (Square) des Nations. Facing the square is the imposing Palais des Nations, European HQ of the United Nations. Loredan said she normally took public transport — a norm in this city of 186,825 inhabitants (city proper) — but when she had visitors to take around, she used an SUV.

Every so often, she pointed out an interesting place, followed by a detailed description.

“That’s the European Centre for Nuclear Research (CERN)”; “Over there is the headquarters of the ILO, ICRC and WHO”; “Oh, the water fountain is off, it must be because of the cold weather.”

At the Place des Nations, she explained the significance of the gigantic chair there, the one with its legs partly cut off.

“Notice that it is not a clear cut but a stump. It is a poignant symbol of the suffering of communities all over the world, including in Cambodia, whose lives are threatened by mines laid in times of war,” Loredan explained.

If you have only 24 hours in Geneva, like we did, then you would have to hurry if you wanted to catch all the sights, including the Cathedral of St Pierre (a majestic building built between 1160 and 1232 and is still in use for Protestant religious services).

“We don’t have in Geneva places like a Latin quarter or Chinatown,” Loredan said. “Everything is mixed here. This is really the will of the government. Everybody integrates easier than when they are in their own communities.”

Geneva is not just the city but includes the canton, and Loredan took us to its countryside of vineyards, hills, forests and farms.

“Almost everybody knows Geneva is an exporter of watches, but very few know we have good wines,” she said with pride. “We are the third largest wine-growing canton in Switzerland. That’s quite amazing considering we are the second smallest canton. We also grow 40 different types of apples, and are the largest producer of tomatoes in the country.”

Next, Loredan took us to Carouge, a small, charming city separated geographically from Geneva by the Arve River. Located 2km south of Geneva, Carouge was built mainly in the 18th century and remains a unique example in Europe of post-medieval urbanism.

“You see this building? It’s typical of Carouge — small houses and workshops of craftsmen on the ground floor, and one floor up are their apartments. There are lots of unusual shops with nice settings and exclusive products that can be discovered here,” said Loredan.

It was relatively quiet in Carouge, and it was pleasant to stroll around and look into the artisan shops. On the drive to Carouge, Loredan pointed something out to us.

“See the rapid on that river? You can go rafting down there. The river comes from the Mont Blanc massif and flows to the River Rhone. This is one of the hidden aspects of Geneva. You can go whitewater rafting in the middle of the city.”

Meanwhile, the shopaholics in the group were getting restive. In Geneva, shops generally close by 7pm on weekdays (closed on Sundays), and by the time our official itinerary was over, the shutters were coming down.

Anyway, we all knew Switzerland was an expensive place and so we clung on to our precious ringgit for a little while more. It was more of a pit-stop for us in Geneva but we managed to get the general lay of the land.

Montreux-Vevey

We all came out to Montreux

On the Lake Geneva shoreline

To make records with a mobile . . .

Yes, that’s the first three lines of the song Smoke of the Water by British rock band Deep Purple. The uninitiated may be interested to know that the song actually describes a real event, the burning of the Montreux Casino in 1971.

“Smoke on the water” referred to the smoke from the fire spreading over Lake Geneva. Montreux, on the north-east shore of Lake Geneva in the canton of Vaud, has made its mark in other areas as well. If you have heard of the Montreux Jazz Festival, then you would know it has been held here for the last 40 years.

Dubbed the Swiss Riviera, Montreux is prized as a holiday and residence by artistes, celebrities and the rich and famous. At the quayside, the life-sized figure of Freddie Mercury is a popular snapping point for visitors. Sharing a bit of gossip, our guide said Mercury actually died in Montreux but everything was hushed up because his estate wanted to escape the heavy death taxes here.

B. B. King, Ray Charles, Miles Davis and Ella Fitzgerald have also been honoured with life-sized figures in various locations in the city.

So what do you do in Montreux?

There are numerous shops to attack, from low-end shops to high-end boutiques and delicatessens. For sightseers, a stroll by the lake is ideal for enjoying the sights of the city whose buildings seem to cling precariously to steep slopes.

The climate is conducive to walking, and the lakeside scenery is awesome. And who knows? You might just rub shoulders with celebrities. There are many around, according to our guide. Then there’s the Casino, where Ferraris and other luxury cars are parked at the entrance. Our only adventure here was to have lunch, though.

There are other places to visit, like Chillon Castle, which we reached by boat. Our Swiss Pass allowed us passage on the boat as well as entry into the castle. Built in the 13th century by the Counts of Savoy, it has inspired various creative people including Lord Byron, who supposedly wrote one of his poems after visiting it.

Not too far away is Vevey, which boasts a very global name — Nestle. The House of Nestle is here, and it also has a food museum called the Alimentarim. Like Montreux, Vevey is also a magnet for long-stay celebrity visitors.

Here, we posed happily with Charlie Chaplin — a life-sized statue of the great English comedian actor and film director, that is. Chaplin died in Vevey in 1977. He and his wife were interred in the Corsier-Sur-Vevey cemetery.

And then it was time to go to Lavaux, a Unesco World Heritage site since June 2007, whose terraced vineyards, spread over 800ha, have been producing wine for more than 800 years.

It is said that Lavaux is the “Land of Three Suns” — sun in the sky, from which the steep hillsides derive good benefit; the sun in the lake, which serves as a mirror; and the sun in the walls, which store up warmth. We saw this with our own eyes: in the late afternoon, the shadows were long and the lake was a shimmering mirror of the low-lying sun.

Lavaux produces eight quality appellations: Lutry, Vilette, Epesses, St Saphorin, Dezaley (Grand Cru), Clamin (Grand Cru), Chardonne and Vevey-Montreux. The different vintages may be tasted on the spot, in the cellar belonging to the wine grower, the wholesaler or in a small bar.

When asked why there was a dearth of Swiss wine in the international market, our guide said: “We produce too little to export. It may also be because in the past, the Swiss Franc was too expensive compared to the other currencies. With the Euro now, it is comparably cheaper.”

So how does one go to the vineyards?

“Go to a tourism office, and they will give you all the information you need,” she said.

The Pre-Alps

Switzerland lies in the midst of the Alps. These magnificent mountains occupy three-fifths of the country. The Alps provide a beautiful backdrop to the villages and towns nestled in their midst, one of which is the town of Gruyeres, home of the world-famous Gruyere cheese.

Visitors can get there using the Golden Pass, another component of the efficient Swiss Travel System. The ride offers vistas of rolling countryside peppered with farmhouses, grazing cows and small towns. It is said that Swiss cows are happy cows, and we found out why this was so at La Maison du Gruyere.

In one of the sections in the factory, samples of the grass the cows feed on were kept in special containers for visitors to smell. One sample even had a component that would normally be considered contraband.

“Hmmm, people could get high on this,” I thought after smelling a particularly potent sample.

It is said that it was the richness of the milk in Gruyeres that made Alexander Cailler, producer of Caillers chocolates, set up his factory in the region in 1897. Maison Cailler is nowadays one of the most important companies in the area.

As a town, Gruyeres is charming with its medieval setting. It has a castle that’s worth visiting and a number of museums, including a very modern one, the Museum of H. R. Giger, creator of the movie Aliens.

For the die-hard hiker, there are various walks to take, one of which is the Cheese Dairy Path, a two-hour hike from Pringy to Moleso-sur-Gruyeres that will get you a diploma if you complete it. Other activities include hot-air ballooning, horse-riding, skydiving and helicopter rides.

Personally, the breath-taking scenery was enough to keep me happy.

Getting there & around

A number of airlines fly to Geneva from KLIA. We travelled on Etihad Airways (www.etihadairways.com), the national airline of the UAE. Based in Abu Dhabi, Etihad currently serves 58 destinations in the Middle East, Europe, North America, Africa and Asia, and flies daily from Kuala Lumpur to Abu Dhabi.

Once in Switzerland, you’ll find that public transport is the best means of moving about. Trains are never late so be sure to be on time. In fact, the service is so punctual that you can actually look at the time of departure rather than the number of the train you want.

The best way to travel is to purchase a Swiss Pass, which is available from the airport railway stations (Zurich, Geneva or Basle), or via the designated travel agents.

The Swiss Pass includes four, eight, 15 or 22 days or one month’s unlimited access to the Swiss Travel System’s rail, bus and boat network in 38 towns and cities. It also doubles as passes to 450 museums all over the country.

Stories by LOUISA LIM

Britain in 2010 is going to be hot, hot, hot — and no, we’re not talking about the effects of global warming.

louisa@thestar.com.my

English writer Samuel Johnson wasn’t just harping on empty rhetoric when he wrote, “When a man is tired of London, he is tired of life. For there is in London all that life can afford.”

But to rely solely on Johnson’s quote would be a mistake, for there is much more to the UK than London.

Why, you ask? Because as the winter weather makes way for the springtime sun, the rising temperatures and blooming flowers aren’t the only thing that will have Britain and its lucky inhabitants go “Cor, blimey!” each year.

Scores of hotel openings, eccentric bookshops, flirting tours, retro fashion shops, vegetarian paradise updates, new festivals and quirky galleries are set to make British cities sizzle more than before.

And before you brush aside any talk of high-budget holidays, here’s a fascinating fact to rejoice in: a ranking of the most expensive places in the world has shown that Britain has fallen from second to 20th place, due to stabilising or falling prices.

So the economic tumult has its advantages after all! While this isn’t guaranteed to last, it sure is a great excuse for a much-needed, albeit short-term, R&R.

If that’s not enough reason, London is officially launching its London Cycle Hire Scheme from summer 2010, when Mayor Boris Johnson and Transport for London (TFL) will make cycles available 24/7. Talk about a cheap, fun workout! All you need to do is put on those walking (or pedalling) shoes and work up an intrepid spirit, because it’s time to venture further afield.

To get you started, here is a rundown of some of the newest and hottest places to hit in Britain.

Rockin’ retail

Yes, Christmas may have left us with thinly-lined pockets but there are just too many hot stores to check out throughout the country! The High Street Retro Centre in Hastings takes 60s retro furniture and clothing to the highest level, with top pieces from the 60s and 70s era.

It’s all about boutique shopping with the newly opened “Folk” clothing store at The Old Truman Brewery, as well as “Cube Store” at the Boiler House, which includes the UK’s first ever pop-up shop from celebrated Parisian design house, Colette.

My Sugarland in Islington is a vintage clothing boutique opened by stylist Zoe Lern, offering established and emerging designers and your very own personal stylist.

But let’s not forget the blinding bling. Jade Jagger has opened her first shop in Notting Hill, Jade Jagger Studio, which promises luxury jewellery and fashion. Annoushka jewellery shop has opened in Cadogan Gardens in London, run by British jeweller Annoushka Ducas.

Last but not least, nature-lovin’ chicks will go ga-ga for Ascension, the new eco-friendly boutique in St Christopher’s Place with organic cotton bedding, Fairtrade denim, naturally dyed clothing and guilt-free beauty products. Green is, after all, the new black!

Do you read this?

Even if you find bookstores boring, you might still love The Book Club (TBC) in Shoreditch. This is one of those rare cases when the name doesn’t say it all, since TBC offers many other joys apart from books, like newspapers, beer, poetry, film, cocktails, lunch, brunch and storytelling.

Heading down a similar path is the nearby Kaleid Editions, a publishing company and exhibit space for artists.

In Old Towne’s George Street, Hastings, is Boulevard Books — a bookshop by day, Thai café by night. You dine on authentic Thai cuisine at tables interspersed throughout the bookshelves. If that isn’t clever, we don’t know what is.

Dieting is for doozies

To all weight watchers, instead of starving yourself silly, why not go vegetarian? And no, synthetic-tasting tofu does not qualify as food in Britain. Ever heard of Veggie pub grub or healthy high-class veggie dining? Britain has both!

The George in Brighton is 100% fingerlickin’ with its all-veg pub food, while Terre-a-Terre and Food For Friends in the nearby Lanes offer a much more sophisticated vegetarian fare. In addition, all Punch Taverns in London have added vegetarian fish and chips, a must-try even for non-vegetarians.

Another perennial problem: veggies are often excluded from the oh-so-nice Tasting Menus, or fraught with beetroot and goat cheese creations. But enter the Berkshire-based Vineyard at Stockcross. This Hotel Restaurant of the Year with two Michelin stars has saved the day by creating a new Vegetarian tasting menu!

Meanwhile, those who aren’t overly concerned about their health can also jump for joy with the opening of several new breweries. The new Brewery Visitor Centre and Museum in Burton-upon-Trent in Staffordshire, retells the history and science of brewing through the years with interactive activities and a place to eat and enjoy a pint.

Back in London, The Old Brewery in Greenwich, which has been reconstructed from the original brewery dating back to 1717, will open in March with a bar and a restaurant.

Celebrate good times

British humour? Always hot. The Leicester Comedy Festival is on from Feb 5-21 with big name acts and emerging talent second only, according to some, to the Edinburgh Fringe. During the same week, from Feb 3-6 is the Dartmouth Comedy Festival that promises buckets of laughter.

Loved Dirty Dancing? Birmingham will see the International Dance Festival in April with an eclectic mix of dance which will include the National Ballet of Cuba, Strictly Come Dancing and C!RCA circus show.

Oh, what would life be without music? Those who agree should check out the year-long Music Village Festival, during which international artists will be flown into London in a series of festivals, museum exhibitions and artistic collaborations.

Art lovers should check out The London Art Fair from Jan 13-17 showcasing contemporary British art pieces at the Business Design Centre.

Discover Young Hackney, meanwhile, is a festival of workshops and “taster sessions” by creative professionals in music, dance, radio, art, photography, fashion design, singing, film and theatre launching at the Hackney Empire from January to February.

Flirt like a pro

Master the art of seduction with Cour-tea-san De-Light at the Met Bar of the Metropolitan Hotel. They are running seduction courses together with lingerie brand The Modern Courtesan, offering cocktails and some sexy edutainment.

They have teamed up with handbag designer LuLu Guinness to create a LuLu’s Tea with an Afternoon De-Light menu of designs from her upcoming Autumn/Winter 2010 collection.

Tired of tea? Try the Flirting & Walking Tour of London, a 90-minute tour of flirting hotspots of central London with social anthropologist-cum-relationship expert Jean Smith.

From working on your game to working on your inner 50s icon, 40 Winks is hosting wildly popular TART evenings — girls only — where you can discover and dress like a 50s starlet all whilst enjoying tea and cakes, sandwiches with old-fashioned fun, fashion and frivolity.

Then there is the Boom Boom Club in the city. At the “BBC” each week, a daring rock-n-roll cabaret is hosted by Dusty Limits, a well-known neo-cabaret scenester while the burlesque is curated by Miss Vicky Butterfly.

Proud Cabaret has also opened in the heart of the city. The basement has a speakeasy feel with velvet curtains, mirrored VIP area and entertainment from jazz, to burlesque and DJ sets. Sexy!

Here to help

Here are some surprising statistics: British High Commissioner to Malaysia, Boyd McCleary, says, 60% of Malaysian tourists who visit the UK explore no further than London. With so many things to see and do around the country — whether it’s traipsing through the fairytale township of Chester or hiking the lush, green valleys of the Lake District — it’s a shame that they don’t.

To help make it easier for first-time visitors to navigate their way out of the big city, the national tourist board for the UK, Visit Britain, has launched their new Brit Agent programme.

“Ninety-five travel agents from 14 local travel agencies have just completed the BritAgent e-learning programme and are now Certified Brit Agents trained to maximise the value of a Britain holiday, match activities with travellers’ interests, and prepare exciting itineraries to make the vacation even more memorable,” says McCleary.

“We’re upscaling the travel agents to meet the growing number of Malaysians travelling to the UK, which stood at about 92,000,000 (Jan-Sept 2009, International Passengers Survey) last year, despite it being a difficult period for all.”

Not only that, this whopping figure is expected to surge in the next three years when Britain brims with activity from the 2012 Olympic and Paralympic Games to the Cultural Olympiad.

In 2010, Wales plays host to the Ryder Cup, the third biggest sporting event after the Olympics and the World Cup.

England will hold a once in a lifetime event — “Illuminating Hadrian’s Wall” — and Scotland’s Edinburgh International Festival and Fringe promises to be even bigger and better in 2010.

The island of Phu Quoc lies 100 kilometers off the Southwest coastline of Vietnam and is very close to Cambodia. It is almost the same size as Singapore but has been left alone by toursim for many years. Diving here has only been happening for a couple of years and new sites are still being discovered. Marine life is very similar to that found in the Gulf of Thailand with few big pelagics but a lot of smaller reef fish and breath-taking, pristine coral. Unfortunately evidence of dynamite fishing can be seen on some of the reefs here but the island does boast one of the best dive sites in the country with Turtle Island off the Northwest coast. We will update this page when further infomation becomes available.

Depths: 5 - 35m Viz: 5 - 20m Currents: Occasional Getting there : Boat 2 hours from mainland. Best months: Nov to June Average cost of a dive: $35

On a peninsula around 80 kilometers north of Nha Trang is the idyllic paradise resort of Whale Island. The area has been associated with scuba diving for many years and it was here that Jacques Cousteau first discovered his passion for the underwater world. Diving is ideal for beginners and more experienced divers with gentle sloping beach dives, deep drop offs and high adrenaline drift diving. Marine life is equally as impressive and there is also the chance of spotting whale sharks or even whales and sharks as the waters soon get deep off the coast here. There are several dive sites around the area including the following: Hon Trau Nam (Three Kings): Swimthoughs and caves, rays often seen resting. Hon Kho Trang: Two dive sites, coral gardens, good visibility and marine life. Hon Tai (Ear Island): Coral plateau, nurse and whitetips often spotted, sea slugs. Napoleon Rock: Sheltered site with sandy bottom, resident napoleon wrasse. Raoul's Reef: Wall covered in feather stars, ghost pipefish found here. Bai Su: Caves at 15m, good for spotting nudibranchs, nice to dive at night. Hon Ong: Good night dive spot with seahorses, shrimps and spanish dancers.

Depths: 5 - 40m Viz: 5 - 25m Currents: Occasional Getting there : Boat 1 to 2 hours depending on site Best months: Feb to Sept

Nha Trang is Vietnam's premier beach resort with a couple of kilometers of relatively pristine white beach and several hotels catering to both local and foreign tourists. For a country with such a long coastline it seems surprising that Nha Trang is the only diving hub along it. There are a couple of local islands off shore that offer some interesting diving possibilities and most dive operators here also run to the more remote loactions. Big animals are hard to find here (apart from the local morays) but the abundance of marine life makes fascinating diving. Nha Trang is more renowned for its vibrant nudibranchs and extensive coral biodiversity, over 350 species of coral can be found here. There are several offshore islands but the majority of Nha Trang's scuba dive trips go to Hon Mun island.

Nha Trang at a glance Geography : Beach resort Accommodation : Hotel Highlights : Good for learning to dive, macro organisms. Average cost of a dive : $27 Dive Sites : 10+ Dive Operators : 5+ Getting there : Air from Saigon 1hr Off Season : Nov / Jan

The advantage that Pattaya enjoys over other dive destinations in Thailand is the fact that it is not seasonal. There are no monsoons here messing up the viz and you can pretty much get wet all year round. While Pattaya does not get the viz or marine life of the Andaman it still has plenty of interesting island sites to explore and several wrecks. Wreck diving really is the highlight here and there are plenty of dive operators in Pattaya to help you arrange that trip.

Pattaya at a glance Geography : Beach holiday town Accommodation : Pattaya Hotels Highlights : Nightlife, easy to get to, wreck diving. Average cost of a dive : $37 Dive Sites : 15+ Dive Operators : 20+ Getting there : Road from Bangkok 1 hour 30 minutes. Off Season : None

Koh Chang is one of the few remaining loactions in Thailand that has survived the mass development and tourism that others have suffered. This is surprising considering it is the Kingdom's second largest island. Koh Chang itself is the largest of 52 islands that make up the Koh Chang Marine National Park. Untouched and pristine, its natural resources and marine life make it one of the frontier dive destinations in Southeast Asia. Most of Koh Chang's dive sites are located to the south of the main island.

Koh Chang at a glance Geography : Marine National Park Accommodation : Koh Chang Hotels Highlights : Beaches and tropical rainforests, relatively unspoilt diving. Average cost of a dive : $32 Dive Sites : 10+ Dive Operators : 10+ Getting there : Boat from mainland 45 minutes Off Season : July / Aug

The Similan Islands are located off the coast of Khao Lak or around 100 kilometres north west of Phuket and provide arguably the best diving in Thailand. There are nine granite islands covered in thick tropical jungle, frindged by powder white beaches and surrounded with crystal cerulean waters. The area is a protected national park now but camping is allowed on the islands. Below the surface lies a diverse landscape of deep canyons, giant boulders, coral gardens, caves and walls.

Diving is almost always done off liveaboards that run out of Phuket or day trips from Khao Lak. There are many world class dive sites around the islands and all offer something different and exciting.

Thailand liveaboard trips We now also offer liveaboard trips to the Andaman from Thailand, visit the Similans, and world class dive sites of Richelieu Rock, Koh Bon and Koh Tachai from the luxury of a liveaboard, find out more here: Thailand Liveaboards

Tubbataha Reef is situated almost in the middle of The Sulu Sea with the islands of Palawan to the west and Panay, Negros and Mindanao to the east. The 33,200 hectare site was declared a National Marine Park in 1988 and a World Heritage Site in 1994. Thanks to local efforts, illegal fishing and coral collection have been stamped out and the gradual destruction that was taking place before 1988 has been halted and the reef is now back in pristine condition. The diving here is considered some of the best in the world. The reef lies 182 km southeast of Puerto Princesa, the capital of Palawan Island and it is only reachable by live-aboard boats which can be found in Puerto Princesa itself. Despite its inaccessability, the reef is now extremely popular with adventurous divers, so early booking of a live-aboard vessel is advised to avoid disappointment. Tubbataha is made up of two reefs, simply referred to as the North and South Reefs or Islets, that are separated by 4 nautical miles of water with surrounding depths that descend to around 1,200 meters. The North Reef is 4-5 km wide and completely encloses a sandy lagoon. The reef is shallow and some of it is uncovered at low tide. The South Reef is 1-2 km wide and also encloses a lagoon. On the southern tip is a islet with a lighthouse. This is used as a rookery for birds and is frequented by turtles. NOTE : the season here is from the end of March to June. The live-aboard boats must use the moorings or cruise. They may not anchor, so when seas are rough, it's almost impossible to moor. Smaller live-aboard vessels can get uncomfortable in choppy conditions. As the walls rise from great depths, currents can be strong and changeable so there is a lot of drift diving. Night diving is possible, but only if there is no current.

Tubbataha Reef at a glance Accommodation : live-aboards Currents : can be strong Average cost of a dive : liveaboard Dive Sites : 8 Dive Operators : 10+ Getting there : 10 hours from Puerto Princesa Off Season : July-February

South of Coron, on the northwestern coast of Palawan Island is El Nido. The area is dotted with some 2,000 islands and Palawan is regarded as the last nature frontier in the Philippines. It lies in Bascuit Bay which, in 1991, was declared a marine reserve.There are some 54,000 hectares of marine waters. Diving can be good year round and is very varied with lots of pelagics and excellent wall and drift diving. There are towering limestone cliffs, great beaches and clear waters. The bay is home to dugong, dolphins, turtles and an amazing array of colourful reef fish. Due to the diversity of sites, we have focussed on the main ones, with mention being made of the smaller sites. Local knowledge will help you get the best out of the area. To the south, Puerto Princesa, the capital of Palawan, is a good place to arrange live-aboard trips to Tubbataha Reef.

El Nido at a glance Accommodation : all types Currents : medium Average cost of a dive : $25 Dive Sites : 20+ Dive Operators : 6+ Getting there : by air from Manila direct to El Nido or via Puerto Princesa. Off Season : July to Sept

Coron Bay is situated in North Palawan, the most westerly part of the Philippines. It lies in beween Busuanga and Culion Islands. There is fabulous diving all around the area, but the bay is particularly well known as having some of the best wreck diving in the world. To appreciate the region, a little history goes a long way. On the 24th September 1944, The US Navy launched a massive air strike on a Japanese supply fleet that was anchored in Coran Bay. Debate as to whether the fleet was discovered by ariel reconnaissance - the Japanese had camouflaged the ships with trees and photos showed that the "islands" had moved - or whether Japanese radio transmissions were intercepted, still rages today. The fact of the matter was that at the end of the day's air strike, US fighter aircraft and dive bombers claimed to have sunk 24 vessels. Some 60 years on, 12 of the wrecks have been discovered. 8 of them are close together in Coron Bay, the others are slightly further afield. This section will deal mainly with the wrecks, but there are other dive sites that should not be missed as well. As the wrecks have remained fairly inaccessable until recently, the corals in the area are exceptional. It is worth while pointing out that planning is essential for the wreck dives and some are for the experienced only.

Coron Bay at a glance Accommodation : various. Mainly in Coron City, on Sangat Island and live-aboards Currents : moderate Average cost of a dive : $25 Dive Sites : 25+ Dive Operators : 15+ Getting there : by air from Manila to Coron airport. Live-aboards Off Season : May-Aug

Situated a 5 hour drive north of Manila, this was one of the first beach resorts to be developed in the Philippines. The US Air force had a presence here until 1992 at Wallace Air Station. There are many dive sites worthy of mention and as in so many parts of the Philippines, there's something for everyone. La Union is a particularly good place to learn scuba diving as there are a number of shallow dives and the waters are protected, so currents are minimal. Unfortunately, dynamiting and other illegal fishing methods have taken their toll, but there's still enough here to warrant a few days of exploration.

La Union at a glance Accommodation : All types, plenty of tourist facilities Currents : weak Average cost of a dive : $25 Dive Sites : 8+ Dive Operators : 5+ Getting there : 5 hours by bus north of Manila Off Season : July to Sept

SEAN AUGUSTIN ; Pictures by SHAHIMAN SHARIP

The city burned to the ground not once but eight times. But where most would have given up, the folks of Bergen refused to be beaten, writes SEAN AUGUSTIN

IN a book on Norway, given to me prior to my trip, there is a picture of a smiling young girl in a yellow poncho holding a bright red umbrella in the rain. The caption reads: “Bergen is blessed with plenty of rain...”

Take a brisk walk through the streets of Bergen and you sense that it is not just showers that soak the roads and cobble-stoned lanes. History too is drenched in her paths and saturated in its walls, either wooden or stone.

Facades reek of both tragedy and triumph, enveloping the air with a redolent of nostalgia like a damp cloth in a small room. Tragic because the city, once the capital of Norway, had to endure a baptism of fire, literally. Bergen was the first capital of Norway before being replaced by Oslo in 1299.

The city burned to the ground eight times and while the causes remain unknown, the flames that once licked the edifices could not destroy the spirit of the inhabitants which, for the lack of a better cliché, rose from the ashes.

And this is why the buildings are built so far apart, one of the very first things I notice about Bergen as we head for Bryggen, our first stop.

Where The Triumph Begins

Bryggen is where the very first buildings were constructed and it slowly became the heartbeat of the city. In 1360, the German Hanseatic merchants set up offices here and dominated trade for the next four centuries. Their influence can still be seen in the names of streets and alleys as well as crests that decorate some buildings where I imagine firemen once scrambled in futility to douse the wicked fiery tongues. Remnants of the Hanseatic merchants can also be found in the many German names of Bergen families.

Now, tourists sit basking in the rare sunlight, sipping red wine and facing either the fleet of cruise ships and vessels, or admiring the rows of shops which have dates of when they were restored.

It is the face of these shops that draws you, like an elusive mermaid draws a sceptical sailor, to wander in.

Here, as you walk on creaking floorboards with the scent of wood wafting in the air, the city’s history seems to develop a soul. The narrow alleys, borne of shops packed cheek by jowl, means they sanction very little light to sneak in, which at times baths you in an air of reverence for all things old, including the termite-holed pillars that prevail the worst parts of history, be it the two world wars or the worldwide economic slump.

Maybe one of the horsemen of the apocalypse had a soft spot for Bergen, though the cacophonous mix of men and machines tell you that it’s the people of Bergen who yearn for the past to remain present.

As we meander through the shops, parts of the buildings are being lifted to lay new foundation. But neither that nor the souvenir shops snuggled in the alleys do little to erode that sepia-toned sentiment. (It made it to the Unesco World Heritage honour list in 1979).

Omniscient View

The clear sky that day means we are not to be short-changed of a bird’s eye view of the city, courtesy of Mount Fløyen, one of the seven mountains surrounding Bergen.

The less than 10-minute funicular train ride means we are not short of breath when we reach the top of the mountain which is 399m above sea level.

And here is what I appreciate about Bergen apart for the earlier trip down memory lane. The fact that you can turn your back on the hustle and bustle of the city, walk or in this case hike away, for some solitude minus the hassle of packing for an expedition.

Where at the top, despite the babbling tourists admiring the view in a language of their own while clicking away furiously, you can still find serenity on the steps leading out to the cliff.

Where at the peak you’d get an omniscient view of the city, casting her in a different light as you realise the fjord looks like a rugged guardian angel faithfully watching over his stoic yet vulnerable being.

From up here, you’d be hard-pressed to believe that she once was scarred by a calamitous past. From up here, the city parades her beauty marks.

So there I sit, surrounded yet alone, as I picture what it would be like to take part in the Seven-Mountain hike, which takes place annually.

Would I have the stamina? Or would the arresting views of the city and the docked ships from different angles seize my ambitions to complete such a race and have me acquiesce to savouring the scenery instead. Even if I came in last, I reckon I would not have lost.

Film Buff & Three Playwrights

As I walk back to my hotel, I take a second look at Rick’s Nightclub — which belongs to the Merchant’s Association of Bergen. Decades ago, the Germans made this the Gestapo headquarters, where many Norwegians were tortured by men in black uniforms. The Gestapo were the secret police under Nazi rule.

The irony would, of course, not be lost to a film buff familiar with Humphrey Bogart’s Casablanca, though it is a memorial for those who lost their lives that reminds you of the war instead of the timeless tune played by Sam.

Less than 100 paces later I run into three playwrights — Henry Ibsen, Euripides and William Shakespeare — or their marble casts, at least, nuzzled in a little enclave of the Den Nationale Scene or the National Theatre.

Although founded in 1850, the theatre was opened in 1909 and became Norway’s first theatre. It was wholly financed by Ole Bull, a renowned international violinist.

And if behind every successful man is a woman, then these bearded storytellers have a divine right to literary sainthood for Talia, the Greek Goddess and protector of the arts lords over them.

Her hands outstretched, clutching the two masks synonymous with drama as if to ward off threats, both fires and jejune ideas from the cinema nearby, to the arts. A sacred ritual of which she may have performed well.

Shakespeare after all is a legend while Ibsen’s often referred to as the godfather of modern drama and is one of the founders of Modernism in the theatre.Euripides was the last of the three great tragedians of classical Athens.

The trio are now mute though their quixotic dialogues still reverberate through staged plays and their marble casts gaze on picnicking couples in the throes of love or students buried in their books on a comfortable green lawn.

Beauty To The Ears

I call it a day, promising myself to explore the city the next morning but Bergen has a funny way to make me feel like one of hers. And her humour isn’t dry.

I keep thinking of the smiling girl in the red umbrella as I struggle on Bergen’s sodden streets with my luggage, anxious not to miss the bus to the airport. A stroll in the rain would have been a novel way to complete my visit here — after all I am already bathed in her past and cloaked in her beauty. Though beauty, I am also reminded, is not just in the eyes of the beholder.

Sometimes, it is also in the ears, a revelation of which only occurred to me on my last night in Norway as I sit in the Arctic Cathedral or the Tromsdalen Church in Tromsø, north of Oslo.

The chilly night eggs me to get into the church as soon as possible, like a repenting soul, though it is warmth and not forgiveness that I am seeking.

Once inside, the first thing I notice is how plain the cathedral is, with only the Skittles-coloured symbolic stain glass a Dan Brown enthusiast would appreciate, providing for something vivid.

Created by well-known sculptor Victor Sparre in 1972, the cathedral nevertheless has an outstanding feature — the mosaic is one of Europe’s largest stained mosaics. It rouses my tired eyes as I scrutinise the art — a welcomed move for a restless man who spends the whole day on foot, not to mention it is already past midnight.

Then I hear it. And as much as I hate repeating a hackneyed phrase, it is heavenly as it emanates from a man who sings without a microphone, reverberating notes that are familiar yet foreign.

This is the Midnight concert that locals boast about, where the performance humbles you with the simplicity of a three-man band.

I was a born-again listener, inspired to sing along but it would have been blasphemous to make a sound or any sound for that matter as a haughty tourist ticks off my photographer with condescending glances for clicking his camera. The songs, be they folk or hymns, get me thinking about “what ifs”.

What if the band sang as I am on board MS Richard With, the cruise ship that sails to Tromsø from (Svolvaer) on a clear and chilly night? Especially as she eases cautiously between the forks of the fjords, with a spotlight to show the rocky cliffs that are part of a larger silhouette just up ahead.

It seems menacing, no thanks to Hollywood-influenced morbidity, but it’s hard not to stay rooted or even irritated that you can’t capture the moment without having the flash waning the romanticism of jet black mountain under a starry sky.

So I stand there, braving the chill that manages to negate the act of wearing three layers of clothing, desperately trying to remember what I can of this 11,025 tonne cruise ship as it navigates its way out of the fjord with the grace of a ballerina.

The music would have done me some good here as I lay on the deck, watching the sky, wishing hard for a streak of aurora to make a cameo. Unfortunately, this can only be seen in winter.

What if the songs were the soundtrack to the story, as told by my guide Knut Hansvold, of Roald Amundsen, the first guy to reach the South Pole in 1911 after a three-year expedition? But that wouldn’t be what I would reserve the powerful tenor for.

The ballad is meant for Amundsen’s dramatic yet ill-fated bid, which holds an Orson Welles sway over an international audience, to rescue a team of Italians who had crashed en route to the South Pole.

Amundsen and company crashed and perished near Tromsø, some think near Bear Island. Sadly, their remains were never recovered. The news splashed in papers both local and international as a group of journos had camped in here to cover the planned rescue. Knut calls it Tromsø’s “15 minutes of fame”, but a bronze statue honouring Amundsen, though not related to this tragic end, overlooking the port vouchsafed that particular heroic quarter, is a tireless re-run among tourists .

What if the songs were the ballad for three female bearded seals who moved graciously and performed tricks all in the name of fish for their eager audience, in the tank of Polaria, a zoo-like centre on all things arctic?

Seductress Storsteinen

Your own sweet time is what is needed in a centre like Polaria which is something I don’t have, much to my chagrin. Nevertheless, the city makes it up with a trip 421m above sea level to Storsteinen.

Unlike the ascend up to Fløyen, where foliage veils the bird’s-eye view of the city like a bride on her big day, Storsteinen has no such tease. She is laid bare for all to see, the seductress she really is, claimed and accused of being.

(Tromsø is often regarded as the Paris of the north, thanks to her nightlife which enjoys national fame. A day before I arrive, Tromsø hosted rapper Snoop Dogg.)

From the top, Tromsø tantalises with her clear azure blue sky, with still white clouds that seem to strike a pose for a picture. From up here, she seems lifeless, with the only pulse I get coming from a ship cruising by and the sound of a plane purring in the distance.

Like Bergen, the view here too is breathtaking though you’d wish for once, vertigo or a fence isn’t a tourist’s worst enemy as it would have been even better to enjoy Tromsø, sitting at the edge of a cliff.

From the peak, you’re tempted to think that you know all about her with just a glance. But the truth is, she still retains a little enigma and quirky bits of history which make her a little more mysterious then her self-proclaimed haughty counterpart Bergen.

Take for example the street signs in Sami, an ethnic minority group in the country whose language was once forbidden in some areas until the 1950s. (The language , which is “related” to Hungarian and Finnish, is spoken by the Sami).

Or the tale of a man named Eidis Hansen, who some years ago rows into Tromsø. He then walked into the nearest bar for a drink but was deemed unfit to enter because of the few he’d had on the way.

Annoyed, he went back to the beach where he found a 371kg stone and carried it to the doorstep of the bar, for he declaimed that if he couldn’t come in, then nobody else should. The bar is long gone but the legendary stone is still there.

Back at the cathedral, the audience claps appreciatively for the trio, inducing an encore. He obliges with an Amazing Grace.

It is my last night in Norway. It is chilly and I am tired. But it is the prefect way to end my trip.

This is one of the most famous diving areas around Mindoro and Pandan Islands. In fact many would claim it to be the best in Asia and it is the second largest in the world. Situated 28 kms off the western coast of Mindoro Island, it is 34 kms long and divided into two lagoon systems, north and south. Marine fauna is widespread and there are some 400-500 different types of coral. Marine life includes sharks, manta and stingrays. About 500 different species of fish inhabit these waters. Wall diving is second to none and you won't have to go too deep to experience a wide variety of life. Trips to Apo reef are generally arranged from Pandan Island Resort on the west coast of Mindoro Island, Pandan Island itself to the south, or from Puerto Galera, 125 km away. Most live-aboard boats feature the area in their itineries also.

Apo Reef at a glance Accommodation : Mainly situated on Pandan Island, Puerto Galera or live-aboard vessels. Depth : 5-30m Viz : 15-50m Currents : can be strong Average cost of a dive : $25 Dive Sites : 10+ Dive Operators : 15+ Getting there : 3 hours by boat from Pandan Island. 125 kms by boat from Puerto Galera. Live-aboards from 1-5 days. Off Season : July to Jan

Situated on the northern shores of Mindoro Island, Puerto Galera is renowned worldwide for its diving and snorkeling. Just 130 kms south of Manila and 14 nautical miles from Batangas on Luzon island, the dive sites are easily accessable with most only an hour away from whichever beach or cove you are staying at. Snorkeling is usually good just offshore. Sabang is the most popular tourist spot around Puerto Galera and it has no shortage of dive shops and resorts along with a couple of floating bars. You will not be disappointed with the diversity of diving on offer. Currents can be very strong and some sites are for experienced divers only. Since 1996, six artificial reefs have been created around Sabang by sinking derelict vessels in the area such as the MV Alma Jane. A place of outstanding natural beauty, Puerto Galera is one of the most popular areas for diving in the country. It is also a jumping off point for live-aboard boats visiting Apo Reef, Coron Bay and The Sibuyan Sea. Once visited, the lure to return will be strong. Latest news: Sampling Sabang’s sub-aqua scenery (April 2008)

Puerto Galera at a glance Accommodation : All types, plenty of tourist facilities Depth : 20-80m Viz : 10-30m Currents : can be fierce Average cost of a dive : $25 Dive Sites : 25 Dive Operators : 20+ Getting there : 2 hour drive to Batangas pier. 1 hours by boat to Sabang or other beaches Off Season : July to Sept

Situated a 2.5 hour drive north-west of Manila are the newly discovered corals and wreck sites of duty-free Subic Bay. Originally a naval base established by The Spaniards in 1885, it became the largest US naval facility in the Far East. In 1991, the bay was transformed into a freeport economic and tourism zone. Renowned in particular for its wreck diving, the bay is steeped in naval history. As there are virtually no currents, it is a great all-year round dive area. There is a well maintained recompression chamber on the former base that is worth a visit - hopefully just from a tourist point of view. As it is a duty-free port, good deals on equipment can be found so remember your passport. There is vibrant night life here. A number of notable wrecks in Subic Bay are the USS New York, San Quentin, El Capitan and some smaller vessels including LST (Landing Ship, Tank), a US landing craft scuttled in 1946 and a couple of patrol vessels.

Subic Bay at a glance Accommodation : All types, plenty of tourist facilities Average cost of a dive : $25 Dive Sites : 5+ Dive Operators : 6+ Getting there : 2.5 hours drive north of Manila. Off Season : July to Sept

There’s an unexpectedly familiar voice or two in the middle of the Mediterranean whether you are Brit, Italian or Australian.

The guttural speech reveals its Arabic roots, heavily overlain with foreign words. The lifestyle, the cuisine and the staunch Catholic faith of the Maltese recall southern Italy, whilst the cosy pubs and red phone boxes reassure British visitors.

Even Australians find echoes of their faraway country on this Mediterranean island nation, thanks to a history of post-War emigration.

Well into September, northern Europeans flock to Malta for the Mediterranean sunshine and sparkling waters, whilst the rest of us relish fine food with an Italian touch, and the many other legacies of a tortuous history extending back 5,000 years, including the world’s oldest freestanding structures.

Like Gibraltar, Malta formed a bastion of the British Empire through the 19th and 20th centuries, a rocky outcrop that commanded vital maritime trade routes across the Mediterranean. During WWII, this island fortress withstood heavy bombardment, its people suffering greatly.

Malta’s history goes back much further, the legacies of the crusading Knights of St John being reminiscent at times of the past grandeur of Venice or Dubrovnik. Down the hill and across the water from my guesthouse lies “a fine example of a 15th-century Renaissance fortified city”.

Valletta doesn’t feel like the toy-town capital of a small island state. Rather, it wears the airs and graces of Europe’s grand old capitals bequeathed by empires now faded, as do Vienna or Trieste.

Grand avenues, flanked by majestic public buildings or tree-lined malls, fan out from the city centre, even if they lead only to dusty, huddled towns and villages of creamy limestone, with their impossibly grand baroque churches and sleepy town squares.

In the tourist district of Sliema, the waterfront buzzes with cafés and bars, boutiques and ice-cream vendors, but the steep backstreets are lined with traditional two- and three-storey houses, rows of painted window boxes and, every so often, a brass band clubhouse or a tiny corner store. Fine Renaissance mansions or Catholic basilicas loom up unexpectedly in the narrow streets.

It’s not all history here.

Sun-starved Europeans pack into the busy resorts along the northern coast, and exquisite grottoes, reflected by clear turquoise waters, lie concealed within the formidable limestone cliffs along the southeast coast.

At secluded coves like Ghar Lapsi (not easily reached without a car), the locals think nothing of jumping in for a dip off the natural shelves of limestone rock. On the smaller and sleepier island of Gozo — easily reached by ferry — golden sandy beaches like Ramla, splattered with sun umbrellas, become positively enticing.

In the fishing port of Marsaxlokk (mar-sash-lock), my accommodation is right above a restaurant on the waterfront. Brightly-painted fishing boats chug back and forth, delivering local snapper or lampuki (dolphin fish) to be grilled expertly for lunch. Each boat’s prow is guided by the mystical Eyes of Osiris, a tradition thousands of years old.

Dining al fresco at Duncan’s Bar & Restaurant, I order seafood pizza, which arrives piled high with mussels (still in shells), prawns, octopus and squid. At the next table sit the Baldachinos from New South Wales, family friends of my hosts, whose side door sports a little enamelled plaque celebrating “Sydney Cove” with a sketch of the Opera House and the Harbour Bridge.

In the island’s centre, Mdina is a well-preserved walled city where the local aristocracy long held sway even after the Knights of St John, Napoleon’s troops and other invaders had made their mark on the coastal towns. Mdina is best explored on foot. The “Silent City” teems with package tourists by day but soon falls still as the light fades.

Admire the Roman frescoes or the catacombs of early saints in nearby Rabat, then head back to the town square where Parruccan Confectionary stocks a mouth-watering selection of homemade Maltese cakes, buns, nougat and nut brittle.

Enough from me. I’m off down to the Sliema waterfront for a last swim in the “Med”, climbing in off a rocky shelf. Time afterwards for a pint of the local Cisk and a spot of people-watching along the Strand.

Malta for motorheads

Waiting for a bus is rarely fun, but on Malta, at least there’s the novelty of wondering just what much-loved relic will come lumbering down the road.

Valletta’s teeming City Gate terminus is a working museum of decades-old AECs, Dodges, Leylands and Volvo buses, many decorated with whorls, scrolls and pious aphorisms according to the owner’s tastes.

Whilst you wait, enjoy an iced granita, a fried date turnover, a Maltese nougat or a pastizzio, the distinctively Maltese savoury pastries. Unfortunately, the regular commuters sometimes tire of erratic scheduling and the arbitrary whims of owner-drivers who aren’t always scrupulously honest when counting out change.

As in other small island nations, especially former colonies, Malta has long relied upon a diverse and sometimes incongruous collection of motor vehicles imported more or less randomly from the “mother country”. Commercial vehicles were built up from a basic chassis by local coachbuilders and carpenters, modified by resourceful owners or customised with fancy paintwork, extra chrome and interior trim.

“Route buses” — that is, public transport — have been operating ever since a certain Mr Spiteri imported the first Thornycroft buses from the UK in 1905. By 1931 the total number of buses was not far short of today’s fleet of 508, and Malta’s embryonic railway system had ceased operation.

Bus drivers were locked in acrimonious and destructive competition, and inevitably entrepreneurs emerged who built up fleets at the expense of smaller operators. Since 1977 the operators have adhered to fixed routes and standardised fares, as well as a uniform livery, the distinctive gold-and-orange of the island of Malta fleet and the more subdued grey-and-red of the island of Gozo.

Thanks in part to a hot, dry climate, the legacy of the past remains in the form of an eclectic “car park” of vehicles, most of which are at odds with the European Union’s norms on exhaust pollution. Something will be lost the day slick Scandinavian coaches shoulder aside these proud in-your-face omnibuses of yesterday.

Malta’s motley fleet of public buses is paralleled in the islanders’ enthusiasm for vintage, veteran and classic cars. On Malta’s crowded roads, I spy Austin 1800s, a Morris Estate stationwagon complete with wooden framing, and even one early 60s Austin hauling a stone mason’s trailer.

The parking lot outside the main gate to the walled city of Mdina one hot September evening includes a Ford Model A, a jet-black Ford Zephyr 6, a classic gas-guzzling Cadillac complete with chrome fins and a stately Rolls Royce in two-toned mauve. When does the rally start?

No, these diverse and eye-catching vehicles have been marshalled to chauffeur a group of visiting European VIPs.

I spy a small Ford Consul, smartly liveried in two-tone banana yellow with deep-green roof; a lime-green 1960s Opel Kapitan and an immaculate Rover TC2000, its blue-green panels positively gleaming. I learn that in the nearby town of Rabat, one garage offers a 1933 Vauxhall Grosvenor Limo for hire, claimed to be one of five surviving worldwide.

Harry Caruana, a dapper middle-aged man whom I encounter at the wheel of his black 1955 Chevrolet Belair — the last of its type in Malta — is a motor mechanic who has previously owned Studebakers and Vauxhalls.

How does his family react to his passion for wheels? Well, he’s a bachelor . . . that helps. Caruana, like so many Maltese, has friends and family who emigrated to Australia, and one of these, he declares, owns 10 veteran cars.

Caruana assures me there are many motor shows and rallies staged by Maltese enthusiasts. Indeed, the Old Motors Club, the country’s largest vintage and classic car club, boasts around 300 members who between them have close to 1,000 cars. The oldest car in the club is a 1904 Cadillac, reputedly one of the first motor vehicles ever to reach Malta.

Of the popular makes represented, the majority are British, but American, Italian, French, German and other Continental makes are also keenly sought, and even DKW, Marmon or Goggomobil cars can be found.

Malta’s specialist car clubs provide for devotees of American cars, classic Fords, Toyota and Alfa Romeo; these last enjoy get-togethers with their fellow enthusiasts in Sicily, a relatively short journey by fast catamaran. It’s a chance to savour the novelty of the Italian autostrada, of the rugged terrain of Mt Etna and, of course, driving on the right.

Visitors to Malta can admire the Malta Classic Car Collection in the coastal resort town of Qawra, a lavishly-presented private museum of fine cars, many from the 50s and 60s.

Just a two-and-a-half hour drive south of Manila, Anilao, is regarded as the birthplace of diving in the Philippines. There is something for everyone here - from snorkeling, to sites for both novices and the experienced diver. In the mid-1960's, a whole coral reef was transplanted onto a large rock formation close to the shore. Contrary to popular belief at the time that the adventure would fail, the coral has flourished. As a result, diving has developed and is at the forefront of the industry in the Philippines to this day. Visibility is good and the opportunities for photography are excellent. Unfortunately, as the area has developed, so some of the more negative aspects of this have become evident. In particular, dynamiting, collection of corals and shells and over fishing are just some of the challenges that Anilao and Batangas must face. Luckily, these are being addressed. Most of the best dives are actually found around the islands of Sombrero and Maricaban, a short boat trip away from Anilao. A short dive north of Anilao is the quiet town of Nasugbu where good diving is also abundant.

Anilao at a glance Accommodation : All types Average cost of a dive : $25 Dive Sites : 25+ Dive Operators : 10 Getting there : 2.5 hours drive south of Manila. Off Season : July to Sept

By GRAHAM SIMMONS

Vladivostok, Russia’s charming city by the bay, is said to resemble San Francisco by those who have never visited San Francisco, and Sydney by those who have never been to Sydney.

The harbour city of Vladivostok, in the Russian Far East, occupies a superbly scenic position on the hills around Golden Horn Bay. Those who have never visited San Francisco says it’s like San Francisco. Those who’ve never been to Sydney say it is like Sydney.

In fact, Vladivostok is unique.

On the outskirts of Vladivostok, new bistros, advertising hoardings and “fast food” stalls dot the sublime birch forests that make up Russia’s heart and lungs. Orthodox churches, long fallen into neglect, are now being re-built. The roads are chock-a-block with new Japanese and Korean cars — even more so on weekends, when it seems that the entire population of the city is escaping to their country dacha.

Everything seems so normal . . . so utterly un-totalitarian, that any fears of landing in a re-emergent, quasi-Communist state are soon allayed. People here, it seems, want to enjoy the good life.

Vladivostok borders on the surreal. In Market Square, down by the harbour, a giant TV screen features Madonna and jazz artists, against a backdrop of a tall stark retro-Communist building, its hammer-and-sickle logo surely the last such emblem in the whole of Russia.

In the fast-changing streets, fashionable boutiques and cafés line the main shopping street, Svetlanskaya.

Start with the panoramic view over Golden Horn (or Peter the Great Bay), from the hill known as Eagle’s Nest. Originally, the plan was to build a Lenin statue here but, fortunately, perestroika intervened, and the mooted statue was replaced with the current Soul and Earth Park. As a result, a real, non-political view of this spectacular harbour can easily be had.

A brand-new monument is soon to rise in nearby Petrovskiiy Park, dedicated to the Russian Orthodox saints Pyotr and Fevroniya Muromskiye, who married each other after Fevroniya cured Pyotr of leprosy. Late in life, they retired to separate monasteries. They are said to have died within an hour of one another, and although buried in separate graves, they were later found together in the same grave.

On Naberezhnaya Street down by the harbour, a World War II submarine is the centrepoint of a waterfront park. Visitors can enter the sub and experience first-hand the cramped living space of the crew. The submarine and an adjacent memorial commemorate Vladivostok’s loss of 30,000 of her citizens in the war — a tiny fraction of the national total of around 20 million.

Nearby is a statue of the city’s founder, KM Arsenyev, whose name graces one of the city’s top museums, (the Arsenyev Regional Museum). Some fascinating cultural tours are offered by the Arsenyev Museum Centre (6, Petra Velikogo Street, tel +7 4232) 22 50 77).

These include Monuments of Religious Architecture, visiting a synagogue, Japanese Buddhist temple and other places of worship; Chekhov in Vladivostok, following the footsteps of the famous writer; and The Theatres of Vladivostok, visiting the Korean and Chinese theatres, the Pushkin Playhouse and other theatres of pre-revolutionary Vladivostok.

Food & drink

For the time being, forget the vodka. Beer is the new pre-occupation of most Russians.

At one of the numerous beer shops outside the Vladivostok rail station (check out the colourful ceiling frescoes), just off the tree-lined main street, a half-litre can costs 20-30 roubles (RM2.30-RM3.40) for a brew with as much as 11% alcohol, as strong as table wine.

For top Russian cuisine, try the Nostalgiya Restaurant (6/25, Pervaya Morskaya Street, tel 41 05 13), where the plush satin-lined dining room features statuettes and busts of the late Tsar Nicholas II and his family, and a triptych of dolls belonging to the Tsarina. Just 20 years ago, the mere existence of such a restaurant would have been enough to have its owners whisked off to a forced labour camp.

Another good choice if you don’t like Subway (the first Subway store opened in Vladivostok in June 2009) is Bar-Club La Trattoria (52, Svetlanskaya Street, tel 20 53 07), located in the house of the former governor-general of the Russian Far East, and featuring traditional Italian and old Russian cuisine.

From Saturnaya rail station in suburban Vladivostok, a short walk leads to the Captain Cook Restaurant, attached to the Vlad Motor Inn.

“Sorry, kangaroo is off the menu,” says Irina, one of the gracious young attendants at the restaurant. “But you can have crocodile, if you like, and all of our wines are from Australia, too”!

It seems a little bizarre to find an Aussie restaurant in Vladivostok, but in this frontier city, the unexpected soon becomes the norm.

Shopping

There is a good, albeit expensive, gift shop next to the Nostalgiya Restaurant, but for bargains, by far the best bet is the market stalls in Market Square, by the railway station. For clothing, one of the chic-est boutiques in town is La Dolce Vita (29, Semenovskaya, open 10am-6pm daily)

Music-wise, for everything from heavy metal to heavier metal, check out Design-studio “Dela” (Aleutsakaya Street, next to Hotel Zolotoy Rog, tel +7 4232 30 03 77). The range, from home-grown to the latest US CD and DVD releases, is astonishing.

One of the newest and maybe the weirdest shop in town is Stalin, selling vodka and chocolates bearing portraits of the late dictator.

Nightlife

Later at night, the Ellada Karaoke Bar (38, Verhneportovaya Street, tel 51 78 50) beckons — or if you’re well-heeled or thin-souled, try the Eldorado Casino (29/31, Okeansky Prospekt, open 24 hours) or Casino Versailles (10, Svetlanskaya Street, tel: 26 96 96, open 6pm-5am).

Vladivostok also has a good nightclub scene. The long-running “Crazy” Nightclub (1, Okeansky Prospekt, in the Marine Passenger Terminal, open 9pm-6:30pm) has room for over 1,000 guests. Another popular hangout is the Zeleny Krokodil (“Green Crocodile”) Club at 12 Svetlanskaya Street.

If you don’t want to spend too much money, just grab a bottle of cheap Moldavian red wine and walk up the hill near Hotel Vladivostok. The views at night are spectacular.

And now the good news . . .

As of July 2009, the passenger ferry Eastern Dream, equipped with cabins, bars, restaurants and even a nightclub, sails weekly from Donghee (South Korea) to Sakaminoto in Japan and thence on to Vladivostok. In a first for Russia, ferry passengers disembarking in Vladivostok may stay for up to 72 hours in the country without a visa.

Ferry fares are significantly lower than airfare.

Getting there

If you don’t want to take the new ferry, Korean Airlines flies regularly from Kuala Lumpur to Vladivostok via Seoul. Vladivostok Airport is a long way (50km) from the city centre, and a taxi will cost RM60-RM70 or more. Alternatively, a bus runs between the central bus station and the airport every hour.

OUT OF TOWN At Vladivostok rail station, take the comfortable Okean train for the overnight trip north to Khabarovsk. The train follows the picturesque shoreline of Amursky Bay. The city of Khabarovsk, on the junction of the giant Ussuri and Amur Rivers, seems like an elegant transplant from Western Europe, its art nouveau architecture being unique in Russia.

ACCOMMODATION

Budget: Amursky Zaliv Hotel (9, Naberezhnaya Street, tel +7 4232 22 55 20, 22 5528).

Mid-range: Hotel Vladivostok (10, Naberezhnaya Street, tel +7 4232 412 808) is centrally located with great views over Amursky Bay. However, at weekends, it seems that the whole population of China and Korea has arrived for a quick break.

Upmarket: Best Eastern Versailles Hotel: (10, Svetlanskaya, tel +7 4232 26 42 01) is centrally located and near the railway station. Or, the four-star Vlad Motor Inn (11, Vosmaya, tel +7 4232 3 13 51), Canadian-owned, some distance from town, near Saturnaya rail station.