Ziying's Brush

Humen stands as a reminder of the ruthless mercantilism of the East India Company in the 19th century heyday of British imperialism.

THERE is a place in Guangdong province’s Pearl River (Zhujiang) estuary whose serenity belies the fact that one of the most wrenching episodes of China’s modern history played out on its shores. Perhaps only its ominous name – Humen or Tiger’s Gate, provides a clue to the fury and exasperation that 170 years ago inspired the Qing dynasty’s Imperial Commissioner Lin Zexu, famed for his incorruptibility, to take on the rapacious British East India Company.

Humen resides in Dongguan city to the east of Guangzhou. A short distance from the lazy waters of the Zhujiang sits a Naval Battle Museum (Hai Zhan Bowuguan), also known as the Humen Lin Zexu Memorial Hall (Humen Lin Zexu Jinianguan).

Historical archive: The Naval Battle Museum in Humen presents a detailed account of the Opium Wars that led to China’s ‘century of humiliation’ at the hands of the western powers.

Although the museum’s layout is somewhat confusing, it offers an in-depth account of the two Opium Wars which resulted in China’s “hundred years of humiliation”, supported by artefacts, maps, statistics, photos, illustrations, reconstructions and copies of manuscripts from the period.

Particularly interesting is the section on the Imperial Commissioner from Fujian, Lin Zexu, whose integrity and rectitude contrasted dramatically with the duplicity and lack of moral conscience of the British East India Company.

He wrote manuals and treatises like “7 Methods of Encouraging Soldiers to Suppress Foreign Invaders” with diagrams of naval battle formations and is considered a hero who led what can justly be called the first outright war against drug smuggling in history.

The British had attempted to trade with China since the 1600s, offering manufactured items like woollens in exchange for Chinese porcelain, silk and most of all, tea. However, as British products were of little interest to the Middle Kingdom, they had to pay for Chinese goods in silver; further, the Qing court restricted such trade to Guangzhou.

The explosive demand for tea led to a trade deficit for the British, and since there was no market for their products, they turned to drugs, or rather, drug smuggling.

Their poison of choice was opium which they produced in India and sold at inflated prices in China. This highly addictive substance had for decades been imported into China in small quantities for medicinal purposes, but in league with corrupt local officials and collaborators, the British East India Company created a new demand, a “market” for its recreational use.

A bridge now spans the Zhujiang at Humen.

The flow of British silver into China thus rapidly reversed while the moribund Qing dynasty could do little to stem the burgeoning drug trade. When the imperial government outlawed the narcotic, the East India Company resorted to smuggling through intermediaries.

In 1839, the distinguished Commissioner Lin arrived in Guangzhou with full discretionary powers to do battle against opium but failed to make any headway with the recalcitrant British. Consequently in June the same year, he ordered 20,000 chests and 2,000 bags of opium (a total of 1.1 million kilos), which represented roughly half of annual imports, destroyed on Humen beach. A year later in 1840, British gunboats arrived and blockaded the Zhujiang estuary in retaliation, precipitating the first Opium War which saw similar British attacks on Fujian and Zhejiang.

The poorly-equipped Qing army with their antiquated weapons was defeated and in 1842, China was forced to sign the Treaty of Nanjing which ceded Hongkong and opened five “treaty ports” – Guangzhou, Xiamen, Fuzhou, Ningbo and Shanghai – to British trade. China had to pay reparations, give the British extra-territorial rights as well as refrain from intervening in the opium trade which flourished.

This first of several lopsided treaties was the beginning of what many consider the darkest period in the history of the Middle Kingdom. Similar humiliating unequal treaties were signed with the Americans and French, while other western powers as well as Japan soon joined in the feeding frenzy, attacking China at will on flimsy pretexts and carving out spheres of influence.

Still not satisfied despite the many concessions exacted from the Qing government, the British East India Company set about to break China’s dominance in the tea trade. In perhaps one of the earliest instances of industrial espionage, a botanist named Robert Fortune was sent to spy on Chinese tea production processes and steal plants for cultivation in India.

The thief travelled disguised as a local Chinese, and flouting Chinese laws, pilfered specimens from key tea-growing regions which he smuggled to Darjeeling, India, together with skilled Chinese tea workers. Fortune’s “success” weaned the British off a dependence on Chinese tea and led to a rapid decline in China’s tea exports.

With Fortune’s theft of Chinese tea plants, the British East India Company decimated the very industry for which they had destroyed innumerable lives with opium, leaving China with not only a much-reduced tea sector but even more damaging, a large population of enfeebled drug-users.

Today, the debauched mercantilism of the British East India Company is often obscured by romantic myths and nostalgia for the days of the “Raj”. In the face of clever marketing and watered down accounts of history, it would do us well to spare a thought for the millions of lives ruined by the Company’s unbridled lust for profit.

After a successful jaw-gathon trip to Batu Pahat, PEGGY LOH and friends attempt to repeat their feed-good experience with a trip to the coffee-town of Kluang

I know the "O" in kopi-O means coffee without milk but I am baffled by the word kopi-OO on the wall menu inside the quaint Kluang Railway Coffeeshop in Kluang.

This leads to a guessing game about what it means and to put the matter to rest, I ask the proprietor who says kopi-OO means coffee without milk or sugar.

I also learn from him that Kluang has a coffeeshop culture, that locals enjoy dallying over their cuppa at least four times a day and that XO is not a hard liquor but a combination drink of tea and coffee without milk.

After last year´s successful Batu Pahat food trail, our group of 10 (three from Singapore, two from Australia and five from Johor Baru) decide to meet again. This time, we´re headed for Kluang, bringing along appetites geared up for a gastronomic time.

With a strategy to share and enjoy more food varieties, my foodie friends coined the word "jaw-gathon" which aptly describes our marathon jaw exercise as we chit-chat over good food.

Meeting us is my Kluang buddy, Barney Lim, who not only makes us feel welcome but gives us an interesting and insightful time to his hometown.

Day One

The train promptly pulls into Kluang at 9.43am for our railway station rendezvous and breakfast at its iconic Railway Coffeeshop that harks back to 1939. For the last 70 years, it has faithfully served customers its classic coffee and toast.

The crowded shop is cooled by whirring fans while a light breeze blows in through wire-netting walls reminiscent of a bygone age.

As trains trundle in and out of the station, Lim Jit Chiang, a fourth generation family member who now runs the coffeeshop, serves us kaya toast and coffee while we help ourselves to packets of nasi lemak and mee siam, pulut panggang and curry-puffs from a tray on the table. It´s all simple but tasty fare that leaves us completely satiated.

Then it´s time for us to check into Hotel Anika. It´s easy to spot the hotel from the station and after checking in, we set off on a drive around town.

We see many modern malls and traffic lights at junctions but we can´t help noticing how Kluang still has a good number of roundabouts, which can be a bane in traffic-choked places.

At Jalan Lambak, we stop to admire rows of sturdy shophouses with intricate roof parapet designs of lion figurines in different poses. These date back to 1934, 1936, 1937 and 1940.

We discuss our lunch options and finally settle on curry noodles at Yong He. Served in traditional ceramic bowls painted with cockerels, the noodles are drowned in thick curry gravy and are topped with ingredients like fishballs, meatballs, fried wantan, soft white tofu, fried tofu, cockles and beansprouts.

While Barney, who has been enjoying noodles here since he was a little boy, prefers dry-tossed lo shee fun noodles with just a dash of curry gravy, vegans can ask for the vegetarian variety.

To cool down after the spicy meal, we choose pai mu er, a sweet, soothing brew of white fungus with red dates.

At Tong Huat Confectionery, I meet Loo Swee Hon, who has been making traditional Chinese pastries like tau sah piah for 13 years. Pointing to pastries cooling on trays, he tells me how to tell them apart -- savoury ones filled with green bean paste are glazed while those sprinkled with sesame seeds are sweet.

When I emerge from the bakery, I am not surprised to see the others with bags of pastries they had bought!

Having had our fill of pastries, we are ready for Kluang´s famous thirst-quencher � Ghani Kadir´s cendol. Before him, Ghani´s grandfather and then his father were operating the cendol stall.

Surrounded by 10 women thirsty for his family recipe of refreshing iced cendol with boiled red beans, the affable Ghani looks more than amused to dish out bowl after bowl to cool us down.

For dinner, we have our stomachs� I mean our eyes... set on Restoran Yean Kee´s beef noodles. Like Ghani, Goh Chuan Kian´s family has been serving beef noodles for three generations.

As we´ve been warned that there´s usually a long queue waiting for these individually-prepared noodles, we decide to make our way there early.

The rice noodles come with sliced beef, tripe and tendons and are topped with chopped salted vegetables, peanuts, sesame seeds and secret sauces. The noodles are served dry, with a side bowl of delicious herbal soup. As for dessert to round off the evening (no pun intended), we settled for bowls of warm tong yuen, glutinous rice balls filled with crushed peanuts!

Day Two

Hot local coffee with buttered toast dipped in soft-boiled eggs at Jack Lim´s busy Kluang Rail Cafe is a nostalgic way to start the second day of our jaw-gathon.

After polishing off plates of mee siam, mee rebus and nasi lemak, we walk around the shops in Jalan Mersing, stopping at Kwong Yik Sang cane furniture shop where we buy a beautiful, woven cane stool.

In Wing Tong Onn, a dusty old Chinese medicine hall, our friend Ling discovers made-in-China "ear diggers" and buys up the lot because they are so rare and fascinating!

After the invigorating walk, we are ready for lunch at Restoran Patam. The signature dishes here are curry fish, fried fish head, garlic herb chicken and steamed otak-otak.

Apart from these, its vegetable dishes like fried special beancurd, petai sambal, kangkong belacan and bittergourd stirfried in salted egg are also very agreeable.

Even though I´m not a fan of fish head, I must admit that the unique flavour of spices and curry leaves in this fried fish dish, keeps me nibbling.

Such a sumptuous meal needs serious working off, so we head for Air Hitam to browse around Claytan´s ceramic warehouse and the souvenir market while keeping an eye on the time.

Happily, we manage to return to Kluang railway station in time to send our friends safely off to Singapore on the 6.40pm train.

Before we begin our drive back to Johor Baru, we drop in again at Barney´s western restaurant. Barney whips up Caesar Salad, deep-fried silverfish and grilled prawn with imperial stuffing for appetisers.

For the main course, it´s (wait for it!) exquisite wagyu beef which I savour seasoned only with salt and pepper.

Saving the best for last, we indulge in desserts-to-die-for -- chocolate brownies topped with vanilla ice-cream, rich chocolate cake and tiramisu spiked with a tinge of Kahlua.

How To Get There

For the full Kluang experience, hop on board the Keretapi Tanah Melayu (KTM) train. By road, take the North-South Highway. Exit at Air Hitam toll and turn right to Kluang town. Or take the scenic route from Johor Baru via Air Hitam for a 90km drive to Air Hitam with another 20-minute easy dual-carriageway drive to Kluang.

Fast Facts:

Kluang Railway Coffeeshop

At Railway Station. Open from 6.30am to 12.30pm and from 2.30pm to 6pm daily except Thursdays.



Kluang Rail Cafe

33 Jalan Manggis. Open on Monday and Tuesday from 7am to 7pm and on Wednesday to Sunday from 7am to 10pm. Closed every third Monday.



Restoran Yong He

Curry noodles. 1 Jalan Bidara 1, Taman Suria (off Jalan Niyor). Open from 7am to 2.30pm daily except Mondays.



Restoran Yean Kee

Beef noodles. 4 Jalan Murni 1, Taman Murni. Open from 9am to 2pm and 5pm to 8.30pm. Closed Mondays.



Restoran Patam

Spicy curry fish. 28A Jalan Lim Swee Sim, Taman Kluang Baru. Open from 11.30am to 3pm and from 5.30pm to 10.30pm. Closed on alternate Tuesdays.



Ghani Kadir´s Cendol

Stall in Jalan Dato Kapitan Ahmad. Open daily from 9am to 7pm.



Dessert: Glutinous rice dumplings.

Unit A-88, Jalan Panggung Hawker Centre. Open from 9pm. Closed alternate Mondays.



Barney´s

5-6 Jalan Yayasan. Open from 11.30am to 10pm. Closed Wednesdays. Pork-free. Tel: 07-774 4992.



Tong Huat Confectionery

28-30 Jalan Cantik, Kluang.

There’s lots to do in the land of mountains besides skiing and indulging in cheese and chocolate.

WHEN you tell someone you’ve been to Switzerland in summer, they’re bound to ask – after the oohs and aahs: “What’s there during summer? What can you do then?”

Some months ago, I might well have been the one asking those questions. As Switzerland is so well known for winter tourism, it’s all too easy to think that that is the only season anything happens there.

This summer, I was pleasantly surprised to find there is much in store for the ardent traveller or occasional tourist within the mountains – even when the ski slopes are still bare of snow.

Oenophiles can explore vineyards that cover Valais’s many slopes to find out more about the people and stories behind its wines.

Our group of 150 writers and journalists were there to sample some of Switzerland’s best treasures – its nature parks – in the canton of Valais, where you can explore and experience the outdoors in as many ways as you like. All you need are good shoes for hiking and walking, and a jacket to keep warm (the temperature can drop from above 20°C to about 5°C when you go up the mountains).

Located in the heart of the Alps, Valais is not only home to some of the highest peaks (like the Monte Rosa and Matterhorn) and deepest valleys of the country (it covers a part of the Rhone Valley); it is also home to a rich blend of history, culture and gastronomic delights.

The first hint of good times in store for you at breakfast, lunch and dinner are the acre upon acre of green grapevines sunbathing on systematically terraced slopes you see as you approach Valais by train.

In places like the Bishop’s castle in Leuk, you can dine and enjoy panoramic views of the mountain ranges.

True to its topography, Valais is the largest wine-producing region of the country, with 5,200 hectares of vineyards responsible for about 45 million litres of wine per year – 40% of the country’s annual production.

Tasting its award-winning wines is just one attraction in Valais. Finding out more about the people and stories behind the wines can also be rewarding. Recreational and educational hiking tours through the vineyards are available for inquisitive oenophiles and aficionados. If you visit during autumn, you may just be in time for the annual wine festivals and hikes.

Venture further away from town centres like Valais’s capital, Sion, and you’ll get the second hint from the cows grazing lazily on the meadows and hillsides. Melted cheese made from the milk these cows produce is the essence of traditional meals in Valais. Indeed, no meal is complete without cheese – served as it is, or blended in with the dishes.

If you are a cheese lover visiting Valais, the Raclette, I was told, is a dish you should not miss. In what looks like a variation of the cheese fondue, the semi-firm raclette is usually scraped off a large cheese over a charcoal fire and served with potatoes and a glass of Fendant (a white wine). Although the cheese is also produced in France, Australia and the United States, you should taste the original version made like it was generations ago in Valais – with unpasteurised, fresh milk.

It’s scenes like this that send us into photo-taking frenzies everywhere in Valais.

In between meals, the Pfyn-Finges Regional Nature Park and Binntal Nature Park are amazing places to work off calories. In the former, you can take a leisurely walk or arrange a guided tour of Switzerland’s largest fir forest, where the Rhone River flows through. Picnics on its meadows or beside its peaceful lakes fringed by scenic views of the Alps can be a good idea, if you are in the alfresco mood.

Those looking for more challenging trails and activities like mountain biking will find the Binntal (Binn Valley) park more interesting. Situated in the Goms district in upper Valais (between 1,000m and 2,927m above sea level), the trails are decidedly tougher, and there is a wider variety of walks and hikes to choose from.

Take the medicinal plants and mineral excursions, which are half-day or full-day guided walks up or down the Binn Valley, and you’ll discover many therapeutic shrubs and colourful crystals.

I did not try the mineral excursion, but the medicinal plants excursion was an enjoyable experience. Locating herbs and berries growing in the wild on our way down from Bellwald (the highest village in Goms) was enlightening, more so for a person like me, who has only seen cranberries and blackberries packed in a plastic container or a glass jar.

In mountain villages, visitors can interact with the locals to find out more about their culture.

Other trails that take you through the old mountain villages, from small ones with only six inhabitants (that’s what they call residents there) to larger ones with hundreds, will provide chances for you to interact with the locals and find out more about their culture. At some of the villages, you can even stop by the stores, which offer local artwork (paintings and wood sculptures) and crystals (including quartz and tourmaline).

But if you are just looking for a quiet time to kick back and while the time away in the comfort of your holiday accommodation, there are plenty of campsites, bed-and-breakfasts, portal apartments and mountain huts scattered across the mountains, where you can wake up to fresh air, and snow-capped mountains in the distance.

Perfect timing

Although Valais is famed for its winter tourism (think Zermatt), not many know it is also a place to rest and relax, or enjoy the sunlight and scenery while you put some muscles to work in summer.

But being with nature does not detract from the admirable Swiss punctuality, an editor in our group found out. After unloading all the suitcases from our compartment, he found himself stuck on the train, which pulled away before he could step out.

Mid-August to early September is a good time to visit. As summer recedes and autumn arrives, the combination of cool (but not cold) weather, sunny days (about 300 in a year) and flora in full bloom can take your breath away, as it did mine.

To find out more about Binntal and Switzerland’s other nature parks or Unesco World Heritage Sites, visit mySwitzerland.com/nature or contact the Embassy of Switzerland in Malaysia at 03-2148 0622.

When Pulau Duyung became part of the Monsoon Cup circuit, the island gained fame and made its mark on the world map, writes ALIAS MOHAMED

Tourists being ferried to the competition site in trishaws." border="0"> Tourists being ferried to the competition site in trishaws.

By CHRISTINA CHIN

Even if you have a fear of heights, you will want to climb Mt Merapi to see its gorgeous sunrise.

Hiking up the Mount of Fire (or its less dramatic monicker, Mt Merapi) is not my idea of a relaxing holiday because I’ve got an insane fear of heights. However, the thought of watching the sun rising up from the surrounding highlands and into the clouds made me suppress the anxiety attacks.

One of the most active volcanoes in Indonesia, Mt Merapi has erupted 68 times since 1548.

The route up Mt Merapi. — CHRISTINA CHIN

A particularly massive eruption in 1006 drowned Borobudur in ash, while the eruptions of 1930, 1994 and 2006 reportedly claimed almost 2,000 lives. Since Merapi is an active volcano, you will need a responsible and reliable guide to climb it. A few hikers have attempted the climb alone and met with tragic ends because they were not familiar with the terrain.

There are two main routes up to the peak, and my adventure junkie friend and I choose the north face from Selo village, which is apparently the safer route. About three hours’ drive away — two, if you have a Formula One driver taking on the narrow, winding road for you, like we did! — from Yogyakarta’s Maliaboro commercial shopping district, Selo is a small village with some 800 inhabitants, many of whom are farmers.

Hiking up Merapi is one of the must-do activities in Yogyakarta. There are many tour operators who will happily arrange your transportation to Selo as well as the guides and porters who charge about 200,000 Rupiah (about RM70) for their services.

The best time to go is between June and September, before the rainy season sets in. The local guide says the trickiest part about the climb is the weather — when it’s the dry season, the track is very dusty and difficult, but then when it’s wet, you struggle with the mud, so take your pick.

We were lucky because although we went during the November rainy season, there had not been any heavy downpours prior to our hike, so the track was neither too dusty nor was it too wet.

Memorials to those who lost their lives scaling Mt Merapi. — CHRISTINA CHIN

From Selo village to New Selo, a rest area where the wilderness starts, takes about an hour. You start at about 1am after some coffee and bread (at the guide’s office in Selo). It takes about four hours to summit the 2,968m mountain at Puncak Garuda to catch the sunrise at 5am.

Even if you are not a regular hiker but are reasonably fit, you shouldn’t have any problems although you may be in for a bit of a struggle. Being an acrophobic, I was more preoccupied with trying not to tumble! I was on all fours most of the time coming down but going up wasn’t so bad since it was still dark when we started.

The 10km journey starts from Selo village to New Selo, New Selo to Station 1, and Station 1 through to Station 4, which is the peak.

New Selo to Station 1 for me was the toughest because it was a long (though not steep) trek and tiring. Stations 1 to 3 (Pasar Bubrah, a stone plain right under the peak) was steep and laden with rocks and pebbles but quite easy to get up if you’re on all fours (like I was, for fear of falling off the mountain!).

When you finally get to Station 3 (where it can get extremely cold), you can either soak in the view while the guide prepares coffee over a hot fire, or you could continue up to the stony-plain peak where a huge rock shaped like the mythical Garuda is perched and there’s a gigantic crater emanating strong plumes of sulphur vapour.

The brilliant Mt Merapi sunrise. — CHRISTINA CHIN

With the sun already up, I decided against climbing the 45° slope to the peak, the most difficult part of the climb because it is extremely steep and ridden with loose sand, rocks and pebble.

The guide said most Malaysians and Singaporeans turn back after Station 2. He said we should be proud but, looking back, I wish I had plucked up the courage and just kept crawling all the way up.

Nonetheless, the view of the golden sunrise from Station 3 was reward enough for me.

I definitely think that the sunrise on Merapi, surrounded by the peaks of Merbabu, Sindoro, Sumbing and Lawu, is among the most amazing in the world and a sight to behold. So even if you have a fear of heights, you would do well to invest in a good pair of shoes and headlamp and make your way to Merapi.

It really is a most humbling and inspiring experience, a priceless adventure indeed.

By REGGIE LEE

It’s time to escape the heat as well as hustle and bustle of the city. Join our writer on his winter trek to Hokkaido, Japan, for a snowy escapade.

What? Exchange sand for snow, and trade balmy weather for sub-zero temperatures? Give up the surf board for snowboard?

Hmm, I usually prefer to head for some island or the seaside for my holidays. But since it’s winter time in the northern hemisphere, I decide this year to don my down jacket and boots instead of swimming trunks and make my way to an equally hedonistic retreat up in northern Japan.

Spending quality time together. — REGGIE LEE

Please let there be snow . . . That seems to be the mantra amongst everyone at Club Med Sahoro, a winter resort on the northernmost island of Hokkaido. In fact, the evening’s entertainment at the theatre begins with a “snow meditation” where Chef de Village, Ben Martin, encourages everyone to pull their energy together and concentrate on more snow falling so that it’ll be good for skiing the next day.

That’s really what it’s all about when you come for a vacation at this winter wonderland. Great snow. Great skiing.

Admittedly, I was a little sceptical about spending five whole days in what I consider arctic weather, but as we land in Obihiro Airport, my spirits soar at the snow-covered landscape that’s so stark and white it resembles a beautiful Christmas card straight out of Hallmark.

Going for a thrilling ride in a chairlift. — REGGIE LEE

If the temperatures are frigid, the welcome given by all the GOs at Club Med Sahoro more than melts the heart. I can’t ask for a warmer, friendlier reception, and my first impression of the resort is one of Scandinavia meets North America meets Japan.

My room is cheerfully colourful, cosily snug and most importantly, comes with huge windows that accord a stunning view of the snow-covered grounds. There’s no better way to wake up in the morning than with a steaming cup of ocha and the sight of fat snowflakes silently falling.

I’m dreaming of a white . . .

For everyone who comes to Club Med Sahoro, the winter activities are the biggest attraction. The snow in Hokkaido is famed amongst skiers the world over for its fine, dry, powder-like consistency, making the slopes a dream to ski and snowboard on.

Matthieu Desbiens, director of the resort’s ski school, elaborates, “The mountain here is for the sole use of Club Med and another small resort, ensuring that you don’t have to endure long lines at the chair lifts. And there are more than 20 different trails down, from easy slopes to more challenging ones, so skiers never get bored.”

Not only is the quality of the snow phenomenal, but the way Club Med organises all the snow activities also makes life easy.

I’ve experienced other ski resorts where you either have to take a bus or travel a certain distance to the ski lifts, but here at Club Med, it really is “ski-in, ski-out” where you can strap on your skis and literally ski out the door and onto the snowfields.

Chef Nathan from Malaysia grilling up giant Hokkaido scallops. — REGGIE LEE

In the high season, which starts in December and goes on all the way till the beginning of April, there are more than 30 instructors for both skiing and snowboarding, all highly experienced and infinitely patient with little kids and bungling idiots like me!

Matthieu makes skiing sound very easy, but then, coming from Quebec, he was probably skiing before he walked.

He explains that while snowboarding requires you to place your feet sideways, you ski in the same direction as you walk, so it’s just a matter to getting used to swishing along.

Alas, my efforts end with me polishing the slopes more with my bum, but all the other guests assure me nothing beats mastering the sport and feeling the accompanying rush.

A familiar face hails me, and it’s Yukio, a GO I last met in Club Med Kani in the Maldives. A superb snorkelling instructor, she is now here as a snowboard instructor, being equally adept on the slopes as she is underwater.

Admittedly, snowboarding is a little more challenging than skiing. but it provides infinite excitement for youngsters. It’s a sight to behold when Yukio and the other snowboarders swoosh and whiz down the slopes like tiny, scurrying ants.

Jingle all the way

While couples and groups of friends do make their way here for a winter vacation, the year-end holidays, with schools on break, are a fantastic time for families to enjoy “together” time. With children clamouring, “I want to see snow!” and “I want to build a snowman”, it makes perfect sense to head for Club Med Sahoro.

The added convenience of an “all-inclusive” package where everything is included in the price you pay, from meals and snacks to unlimited drinks, ski lessons and free ski lifts, means that guests don’t have to worry about a thing.

It puts me to shame to see the little ones out in the snow, mastering the kiddie slopes with ease. I can see that the instructors are absolutely serious about the safety of their charges, insisting that everyone wear their helmets (mandatory and provided for by the resort), and follow instructions. Yet, there is ample time for the tots to have fun tumbling down the little hills, having snowball fights and, of course, building snowmen. They are even discovering the joy of making a snow angel simply by falling backwards onto the powdery soft snow and flapping their arms up and down.

With the convenience of a Petit Club for two- to three-year-olds, as well as Mini and Junior Clubs for slightly older kids, parents can take off for the slopes themselves, assured their children are taken care of every step of the way.

Club Med GOs see that tiny tots finish up their food. — REGGIE LEE

Mini Club GOs including Robert, make playtime a time of discovery and fun for their charges, providing games, activities and movies throughout the day and night, even to the extent of supervising their mealtimes.

A Malaysian family I bump into explains that while they have visited quite a number of skiing destinations with their three teenagers, including Whistler in Canada and Australia, Club Med Sahoro has the added advantage of offering an all-inclusive package, “Everything’s taken care of here; they cater for every level of skier, so we each do our own thing and nobody feels left out.”

With a wistful sigh, they add, “We’re booked to stay for five days, but now we wish it were longer.”

Ski in style

So, you must be wondering, what is there to do after the skiing and snowboarding? Lots. Literally lots.

The gym, with fitness and yoga classes scheduled throughout the day, offers a warm and calm sanctuary to work out in comfort.

To relax and ease those tired, aching muscles, the Japanese pool is a great way to unwind.

For the more adventurous, the open-air Canadian bath is a must. Similarly, the Japanese onsen that I opt for provides the sensation of soaking in a steaming hot pool in the open while lifting your face to the snowflakes that gently float down.

Stick your tongue out to have a couple melt on it — ahhh, bliss. After a killer workout on the slopes, the Pirrka Spa manages to combine the best of both Japanese and western spa techniques to rejuvenate the body.

Club Med Sahoro offers a fantastic buffet spread, and being in Japan, some of the best in Japanese cuisine. Every meal in the restaurant is a gourmand’s paradise.

Hokkaido is famous throughout Japan for its produce, and so at lunch and dinner, I look forward to a different speciality, including Hokkaido beef, tuna sashimi, crab, cheese, fruits and vegetables, and scallops as large as my fist, grilled to perfection by Chef Ravin on an open air barbecue pit. Chef even obliges children with carrots for their snowmen! Despite my strenuous efforts out in the cold, I notice my ski suit getting more and more snug by the day!

Everyone at the resort, kids and adults alike, eagerly awaits the after-dinner entertainment scheduled in the theatre. Despite having been to a number of Club Meds in the region, I am totally bowled over by the high quality of the acts here.

I join the audience to enjoy a stunning light show with fantastic dancers, and am enthralled by a magic show that leaves all of us with our jaws dropping.

What proves to be the pièce de résistance is the Circus night, where village chief Ben himself performs along with some of the more acrobatic GOs, swinging high in the trapeze and balancing on ropes. The evening ends with an awesome bonfire complete with fireworks and ice bar out in the snow.

It’s hard to say Sayonara

Snow is still falling as I leave the resort, providing a fluttery, silently fleeting farewell. I will still continue to holiday by the beach and enjoy my sun sports. But would I also grab the first opportunity to head for the wintry slopes of Club Med Sahoro? You betcha!

Soaking it all in at a Japanese onsen.

Ritual bath

Remove all your clothes (yes, all) and head for the shower or bathing area, with the little towel provided. Then proceed to scrub yourself all over, and I mean scrub every nook and cranny.

The Japanese, I note, spend easily 15-20 minutes on this cleansing ritual alone. Only when you are squeaky clean do you lower yourself carefully into the bath. Sink in slowly until only your head is above water. Enjoy.

Getting there

JAL offers a good package, flying from Kuala Lumpur to Narita Airport in Tokyo. From here you can transfer to Haneda Airport for a domestic flight to Obihiro Airport where a Club Med bus will pick you up.

WHEN TO GO Between December and April for the best snow.

WHERE TO STAY Club Med, Sahoro, Japan. An all-inclusive package (excluding flights) starts from RM800 per adult, and you can book now until Jan 30 to enjoy RM1,200 off per adult. Find out more at www.clubmed.com.my or call (03) 2161 4599.

WHAT TO BRING Clothing and shoes to withstand really cold weather. Skis and ski boots are provided, and ski suits for both adults and children can be rented at the resort, but bring your own hat, gloves, scarf and sunglasses or goggles. Sunscreen is advisable as the winter sun can be harsh.

WHAT TO DO Ski, snowboard, snow trek, skate, have snowball fights, build snowmen, relax, recharge, rejuvenate . . .

HIS name is well known in the international fashion arena. Malaysian tourism ambassador and shoemaker to the rich and famous, Datuk Jimmy Choo, said he valued sincerity above all else when dealing with people, from family members to business associates.

Choo presenting the World Travel Award 2009 to Nannucci. Looking on is resort director of sales and marketing Peter Donlevy

The duty free destination of Labuan was once a small colonial outpost of the British Empire and is now a free trade zone under the Malaysian government. The island is surrounded by pristine fringing coral reefs housing all manner for fish and marine life however there is another attraction for divers here. Four ship wrecks lie in shallow waters just south of Pulau Labuan. Diving is for all experience levels from novice to pro as penetration is possible.

Labuan at a glance

Accommodation : Hotel/Resort.

Highlights : Wreck diving.

Average cost of a dive : $20

Dive Sites : 4

Dive Operators : 2+

Getting there : Boat from KK, 3 hours, from Brunei 1 hour.

Off Season : None, diving year round.

The long rugged island of Flores is not known internationally as a dive destination. However due to its geographic position at the junction of the Australasian and Asian submarine ridges and between the two distinct faunal regions marked by the Wallace line it yeilds some impressive marine life. The coral reefs of the Flores sea are amongst the oldest in the world and are mostly in pristine condition. They are recovering nicely from damage caused by the 1992 tsunami however their growth could be even quicker if the authorities took action against the dynamite fishing that is painfully common in the area. Maumere in the east is a real muck diving paradise, known for its endemic species and bio-diversity.

Riung
There are a number of lesser known spots such as Riung along the northern coastline of Flores that may soon develop into dive resorts of their own. At the moment though they are solely visited by liveaboards from Bali, Komodo or those originating in Maumere. Many of the dive sites here are frontier and uncharted.

Flores at a glance Accommodation : Bungalow or Liveaboard Highlights : Marine diversity, critters, frontier dive sites. Average cost of a dive : $30 Dive Sites : 10+ Dive Operators : 2+ Getting there : Liveaboard. Off Season : None

The map below is interactive so click on the dive site to get more details.

The world renowned Lembeh Strait lies off the northern tip of Sulawesi. Since resorts started to open in the mid-90s the area has rapidly gained popularity amongst macro photographers and is now considered the diving Mecca for critters and macro marine life. The extremely diverse marine habitat in this stretch of water offers a plethora of macro species, many of which can found nowhere else on the planet. Diving here is the ultimate experience for photographers in search of the unusual and unseen. It is often refered to as a muck divers paradise as most of the sites are either sandy areas or small reefs, there are no spectacular walls of drop offs here. With over 30 dive sites to choose from and even a WWII wreck all within a short boat ride over calm waters from the resort it is no surprise that the Lembeh Strait is a world class dive destination.

Lembeh is diveable all year but the conditions do vary from month to month. January to June sees variable (but still fine) conditions and less divers. August sees the poorest visibility but the richest numbers of critters and September to October are probably the best two months overall.

The Lembeh Strait has over 30 dive sites so since the topography and marine life is very similar for most of them we have only included the most popular. Other good dive sites in Lembeh include Jahir; a large sandy site with coral blocks, Nudi Retreat; very similar to Nudi Falls, Aw Shucks where whip coral and pipefish are abundant, Pantai Parigi; more muck marine life, Kapal Indah; wrecked cargo boat teeming with life, Jiko Yance; reef slope with good viz, Aer Perang and the house reefs at Kungkungan and Divers Lodge.

Lembeh Strait at a glance Accommodation : Resort Highlights : Rare macro species. Average cost of a dive : $30 Dive Sites : 25+ Dive Operators : 8+ Getting there : Flight to Manado, then 1.5 hour drive. Off Season : None

The dive destinations of Bunaken and Lembeh near Manado in the north are by far the most popular of Sulawesi's dive spots. However the are countless other islands, reefs, atolls and diving opportunities around Sulawesi. With over 6,000 kilometers of coastline fringed with pristine, clear tropical waters and a rich diversity of marine life Sulawesi is one of the best diving destinations on the planet. Dramatic topography consists of abyssal trenches and sheer drop-offs near the coast. Nutrient rich oceanic currents well up from the deep attracting a huge variety of marine life. Many spots around the sprawling island are pristine, frontier dive destinations just waiting to be explored.

Sulawesi at a glance

Accommodation : Resort, liveaboard

Highlights : Biodiversity, deep wall diving, pelagics, critters.

Average cost of a dive : $30

Dive Sites : 50+

Dive Operators : 20+

Getting there : International flights.

Off Season : None

The world renowned Lembeh Strait lies off the northern tip of Sulawesi. Since resorts started to open in the mid-90s the area has rapidly gained popularity amongst macro photographers and is now considered the diving Mecca for critters and macro marine life. The extremely diverse marine habitat in this stretch of water offers a plethora of macro species, many of which can found nowhere else on the planet. Diving here is the ultimate experience for photographers in search of the unusual and unseen. It is often refered to as a muck divers paradise as most of the sites are either sandy areas or small reefs, there are no spectacular walls of drop offs here. With over 30 dive sites to choose from and even a WWII wreck all within a short boat ride over calm waters from the resort it is no surprise that the Lembeh Strait is a world class dive destination.

Lembeh is diveable all year but the conditions do vary from month to month. January to June sees variable (but still fine) conditions and less divers. August sees the poorest visibility but the richest numbers of critters and September to October are probably the best two months overall.

The Lembeh Strait has over 30 dive sites so since the topography and marine life is very similar for most of them we have only included the most popular. Other good dive sites in Lembeh include Jahir; a large sandy site with coral blocks, Nudi Retreat; very similar to Nudi Falls, Aw Shucks where whip coral and pipefish are abundant, Pantai Parigi; more muck marine life, Kapal Indah; wrecked cargo boat teeming with life, Jiko Yance; reef slope with good viz, Aer Perang and the house reefs at Kungkungan and Divers Lodge.

Lembeh Strait at a glance

Accommodation : Resort

Highlights : Rare macro species.

Average cost of a dive : $30

Dive Sites : 25+

Dive Operators : 8+

Getting there : Flight to Manado, then 1.5 hour drive.

Off Season : None

The islands of Komodo and Rinca are the largest of about 90 islands that lie in between the larger islands of Sumbawa to the west and Flores in the east along the Nusa Tenggara. Together with a extensive area of the surrounding ocean they form the Komodo National Park which was established in 1980 and declared a World Heritage Site in 1986. The park is most famous for its enormous lizards, the Komodo dragon, however its underwater attractions should not be overlooked and are rated as some of the best dive sites in the world.

The diversity of dive options around Komodo is astounding, from calm and colourful shallow reefs teeming with hundreds of reef fishes and crammed with invertebrates, to current-swept deep water sea mounts, walls and pinnacles patrolled by sharks, tuna and other big fish. The multiple islands and relatively shallow seas between Flores and Komodo's west coast result in extremely fast currents at tidal changes. There are deep seas both north and south and upwellings bring nutrients and plankton to keep the seas rich and well-fed.

The water in the south of Komodo is usually much colder (21° to 26°C) than in the north. There is also a noticeable change in marine life. The north has more unpredictable currents due to the Indonesian throughflow hitting the island straight. This makes for shiftling currents and eddies but also attracts large fish in large quantity. Coral cover here is less colourful than in the south, but visibility generally better. The best time to dive is from late October to early May however the plankton rich seas between November and January produce some spectacular fish life.

The duty free destination of Labuan was once a small colonial outpost of the British Empire and is now a free trade zone under the Malaysian government. The island is surrounded by pristine fringing coral reefs housing all manner for fish and marine life however there is another attraction for divers here. Four ship wrecks lie in shallow waters just south of Pulau Labuan. Diving is for all experience levels from novice to pro as penetration is possible.

Labuan at a glance

Accommodation : Hotel/Resort.

Highlights : Wreck diving.

Average cost of a dive : $20

Dive Sites : 4

Dive Operators : 2+

Getting there : Boat from KK, 3 hours, from Brunei 1 hour.

Off Season : None, diving year round.

- 15 Itineraries- memorable china

Our ready-made tour itineraries can take you to all of China's classic cities. We feature the Great Wall and the Forbidden City in capital Beijing, let you compare the old and modern metropolis of Shanghai, wonder at the Terracotta Warriors in ancient Xian and the scenic Li River in Guilin, marvel at the shoppers' paradise that is vibrant Hong Kong. These and many more highlight attractions can be included in our wonderful tours.

Yangtze River Cruises -- 28 Itineraries

• 10 Itineraries - 2009 Yangtze cruise
  
• 18 Itineraries - 2010 yangtze cruise
  

Our splendid Yangtze River Cruises allow you to savor the majestic beauty of the world renowned Three Gorges - Qutang, Wu and Xiling gorges, experience an exciting pea-boat ride along the fantastic Shennong Stream and see first-hand the world-amazing Three Gorges Dam Project. These and other sights will definitely catch your eye as you enjoy the shipboard comfort of the cruise tour.

52 Itineraries- tibet tours

A land steeped in mysticism and spirituality, Tibet has many superlatives, Mt. Everest, the Potala Palace and now the Tibet railway. With its vibrantly colored prayer flags, chanting monks, elaborately crafted prayer wheels and magnificent temples and palaces. The Roof of the World has never been more accessible so why not let us fulfill your dreams and enlighten you by whisking you away to this awe inspiring land of mystery.

27 Itineraries- beijing tour

Beijing, the capital city of China and also the venue of the 2008 Olympic Games, is endowed with many splendid tourist attractions including Great Wall, Forbidden City, Summer Palace, Temple of Heaven and the new ultra-modern and stunning Bird's Nest (Olympic National Stadium). Our comprehensive Beijing packages enable you to enjoy every corner of Beijing and will transport you from twenty-first century city life back through time to the wonders of ancient dynasties.

31 Itineraries- xian tour

As the ancient capital spanning thirteen imperial dynasties, Xian is virtually a living history book recording great events from China's past. The city has an abundance of cultural and historical relics. These include the amazing Terracotta Warriors as well as the nation's best preserved fortified City Wall. Together with the Big Wild Goose Pagoda, an important Buddhist shrine, these are truly highlights of your wonderful tour. Enjoy our a la carte meals in Xian!

29 Itineraries- shanghai tour

Shanghai is an international metropolis with a blend of rich history and fashionable modernity. From Shanghai Museum, to Yuyuan Garden, then to the thriving Bund area and lively Nanjing Road, one may get a sense of the vigor and prosperity of this city. A short cruise trip on the Huangpu River is a fantastic addition and the famous water towns near Shanghai are unique and well worth a visit to round off your experience of the city.

Take an adventurous journey along the world's oldest and most historically important trade route - the ancient Silk Road. Travel from Xian heading for Xinjiang, where the cultures of East and West meet, enjoying the imposing desert scenery while taking a camel ride, appreciating the ancient and well-preserved Mogao Grottoes and souvenir hunting in the famous Sunday Bazaar. Truly, the journey of a lifetime!

5 Itineraries- guizhoe ethnic minority

As a primary region where several ethnic minority groups coexist, Guizhou has many unique things to offer. The traditional architecture of the wooden houses in the minority villages will be first to capture your attention as you wonder how the people live there. The various folk customs, the exotic costumes and dazzling ornaments are fascinating while the breath-taking natural scenery is certain to enthrall you.

4 Itineraries- yunnan discovery

Come to Yunnan and find a place to celebrate life! Yunnan, an idyllic paradise for living, is destined to be a highlight for travelers. Cities with their year round spring-like climate include Kunming, a tranquil old town and the Bai minority tribal area of Dali, the romantic atmosphere and natural wonderland of Lijiang, and Shangri-La - 'heaven on earth', all will captivate you during your visit.

MANILA, Philippines (Xinhua) -- The Australian government warned its citizens on Wednesday against sea travel in the Philippines, citing poor maritime rescue services in the country during ship mishaps.

Australia issued the warning after a passenger ship sank off the coast of Zamboanga peninsula last Sunday, killing nine people.

"Sea travel in the Philippines is hazardous," Australia's Department of Foreign Affairs and Trade (DFAT) said in an advisory. "You should not travel on ferries unless no other means of travel is available."

M/V SuperFerry 9, a 7,268-ton ship, was heading to Iloilo province from General Santos City when it listed for several hours before sinking. More than 900 passengers and crew members were rescued from the tragedy.

Following the incident, the Maritime Industry Authority (Marina) has suspended the operations of Aboitiz Transport System Corp., the ship's operator.

Sea travel is one of the common and cheaper means of transportation within the Philippines, an archipelago consisting of more than 7,100 islands.

The country's cash-strapped coast guard lacks the capability and equipment to monitor sea travel and the ability to quickly respond to sea emergencies.

"Ferries are often overloaded, lack necessary lifesaving equipment and are not adequately maintained. Storms can develop quickly," Australia said.

It also noted that standards maintained by search and rescue services, transport services and tour operators, including adventure activities such as scuba diving, may not be comparable to those in Australia.

The DFAT advised travelers to check operators' credentials and safety equipment beforehand and ensure that their travel insurance policy covers their planned activities.

Australians were likewise warned against pirate attacks in the country, saying piracy occurs in the coastal areas of the Philippines.

At the same time, the DFAT urged its citizens in the country to avoid any large gatherings, demonstrations, protests, rallies or other public events in the run up to the May 2010 polls "as they may turn violent."

"Such events may become more common in the lead-up to country- wide elections in May 2010. You should monitor the media for information about any protests and follow the advice of authorities," Australia said.

Java, the most populous island of the Indonesian archipelago, is one of active volcanic activity. The most famous one is Krakatoa to the west which offers some good dive spots. There are also several hundred off shore islands with good coral and marine life to be explored. The Ujung Kulon national park consists of Penietan Island and peninsula, and is home to many marvelous Javanese rainforest animals and surf beaches. Underwater also offers myriad marine life at this spot and at Pulau Seribu, a number of tiny islands that serve as a popular weekend destination from Jakarta.

Java at a glance Accommodation : Resort/Bungalow Highlights : Marine diversity, volcanic dive sites. Average cost of a dive : $25 Dive Sites : 30+ Dive Operators : 15+ Getting there : Air/Sea from Singapore or Australia. Rainy Season : November to March.

The map below is interactive so click on the dive site to get more details.

Bali is by far Indonesia's most popular dive destination. It offers plenty of shore based diving opportunities set against a stunning backdrop of volcanic peaks, rice paddys and breath taking beaches. The diving is varied with drop offs, coral gardens and bommies, wrecks and a huge variety of marine life. The Lombok strait lies to the east of Bali and through it flows the greatest volume of tidal water on earth. It is not surprising then that the waters around Bali are often visited by some big pelagics including the elusive sunfish. With everything on offer from muck diving at Secret bay to adrenaline drift diving at Nusa Penida to walls and drop offs of Tulamben and even a world class wreck, the Liberty. Bali has something for every divers taste. Many of the sites have very strong currents and are recommended for experienced divers only however there are also calmer shallower spots like those at Amed for beginners.

Bali at a glance Accommodation : Bali Hotels Highlights : Marine diversity, wrecks, big pelagics. Average cost of a dive : $25 Dive Sites : 40+ Dive Operators : 25+ Getting there : International flights daily. Rainy Season : December to March.

The map below is interactive so click on the dive site to get more details.

There are several good reefs off the coast of the eastern side of Kalimantan. Out in the Makassar strait lie a number of sites are famous for the large gatherings of manta rays and breeding grounds of turtles. There is also a unique biological wonderland in the form of a brackish inland lake at Kakaban. All the islands are relatively close together so can be visited in the same trip. Visibility is often lower here than other parts of Indonesia due to silt from the river in Tanjung Redeb. Samama or Derawan usually have the lowest visibility, Sangalaki a bit better because it is a little further offshore, and Kakaban and Maratua even better because they are even further out.

Kalimantan at a glance Accommodation : Resort/Bungalow Highlights : Mantas, jellyfish lake. Average cost of a dive : $30 Dive Sites : 20+ Dive Operators : 3+ Getting there : Boat from mainland, 60 -120 minutes. Rainy Season : November to March.

The map below is interactive so click on the dive site to get more details.