TRAVEL

Staying comfortable abroad

2010-05-23T21:38:00.000+08:00

By JOLEEN LUNJEW

jlunjew@thestar.com.my

A London-based company is making temporary housing more comfortable and hassle-free.

Your boss just told you that you might need to relocate to London for a few months to oversee a project. Not again, you moan.

As much as you like a change of scene, you dread the thought of staying in an impersonal hotel room for long periods of time. It just doesn’t feel like home. And the ridiculous cost involved is taking its toll on your company’s finances, which ultimately means a smaller bonus, and you don’t want that, do you?

In his role as a corporate solicitor and, later, as an investment banker, Guy Nixon spent much of the 1990s travelling around Asia and the US, often for months on end. It made him very aware of the limitations of hotel living. He longed for more privacy, space and comfort and a place in which his friends and family would be welcome to stay.

Unfortunately, there were very few temporary housing solutions available at the time, so Nixon decided to test the market’s appetite for temporary housing in 1997 by placing an advertisement in the New York Times, offering his own London apartment to business travellers while he was away on business himself. Within hours, he was inundated with enquiries from American business travellers.

That was how his company Go Native started in 1998.

A good deal: There are 62 stylish studio flats available for rent from as low as £85 per night.

“London’s position as one of the world’s most expensive cities has prompted many visitors to explore different ways of cutting the cost of their stay,” says the 46-year-old founder and CEO. “One option that has seen an increase in popularity is the use of alternative types of accommodation, such as serviced or leased apartments.”

Nixon says customers are attracted to apartments because they are available on more flexible terms than hotels or short-term lets.

“These properties are available for one day and up to a year; customers can specify the level of service required, whether it be a daily linen service or a weekly clean; properties can be quickly and easily identified and booked on the Go Native website; and there is no formal check-in process.”

Go Native has over 25,000 properties in their database, offering the largest network of serviced apartments across the UK, Europe, the Middle-East, Africa and India. Their clients include large corporations looking to house staff on a short-term basis, tourists, business travellers, graduates on training programmes, as well as parents of overseas students studying in London.

All of Go Native’s apartments are of three or four-star standard, come fully furnished and feature comfortable interiors complete with a private bathroom, fully-equipped kitchen and broadband and digital TV services.

Many of the buildings also feature free on-site laundry rooms, entertaining spaces and guest lounges with large plasma screen TVs.

Located across central London, the majority of units are studio and one-beds situated close to tube stations, shops and other conveniences, with larger two-bed units also available.

Because of lower overheads, this type of accommodation can offer significant savings for guests, with prices starting from just £59 a night as opposed to the London hotels, which rarely cost less than £160.

“With the current economic climate, our clients are invariably looking to make savings but also want hotel-quality accommodation in convenient locations with a degree of flexibility but with all the facilities of a home. These are things that Go Native offer as standard,” says Nixon.

“We deal with all sorts of requests, and I have personally been involved with sourcing properties suitable for people with disabilities, people travelling with pets and celebrities for whom security is paramount,” he adds.

Based on customer’s feedback, Go Native introduced eco ratings, a guest rating system and video tours of the properties to help the clients decide. Last summer, British Telecom was looking to house 30 MBA graduate interns in London for 12 weeks and wanted a low-cost, centrally located, comfortable housing solution.

Go Native sourced 30 apartments in one location that met all of the criteria and has now been retained as British Telecom’s accommodation provider for three years.

Guy Nixon

“The property was a large block of newly refurbished studio apartments close to West End. Our interns were delighted with the accommodation,” says Candy Jenkins, MBA recruitment manager, British Telecom. “Pricing was on target, the location was central and secure, the apartments met the expectations of our interns and the overall service was excellent.”

Eugenie Furniss, head of books, William Morris Endeavour talent agency, was also happy with Go Native’s services when he was looking to house three colleagues travelling to Abu Dhabi for four weeks who required space for friends and family, a secure location, easy accessibility and concierge, pool and fitness facilities.

“Go Native was quick to respond with solutions that met our criteria. They understood the market well and helped us negotiate highly flexible terms at competitive rates,” says Furniss.

Nixon expects exciting times for the serviced apartment industry in the next few years as the sector becomes better understood by potential users and institutions.

“I think we will see steady growth in the number and range of serviced apartments available across the country. As the largest agency in Europe, we find that most new operators want to place their properties in our network.”

He says that the response Go Native gets now is very similar to the response he first got with his own flat, but on a bigger scale.

“We housed over 6,500 guests in 2009 and achieved a 96% guest satisfaction rating. People are not always aware that there is an alternative to hotels but when they find out about serviced apartments, they rarely go back to staying in hotels.”

o For more information, visit www.gonative.com.

The great escape

2010-05-23T21:37:00.001+08:00

By Louisa Lim

louisa@thestar.com.my

What happens when you combine a swish eco resort with acres of pristine wilderness and one very big lake? Top-of-the-line adventure, it seems.

Fish spas are overrated. You go in and pay an unjustifiable amount of money just so these food-deprived little creatures can gnaw at your feet. However, there’s none of that nonsense at Lake Kenyir in Terengganu, where the massage is au naturel and the fish are friendly, not menacing.

Find that hard to believe? Try dipping your feet into the Kelah Sanctuary’s cold, glassy waters.

Located at Sungai Petang, one of the 14 rivers that supply water to the dam, the sanctuary is home to hundreds and thousands of foot-long Mahseer fish that will glide up to your submerged feet and give them a good, slippery massage. While it isn’t meant for the faint-hearted, those who are brave enough will find themselves greatly rewarded.

The best part of it all is that it is free.

Natural beauty: The breathtaking Lake Kenyir in Terengganu at sunset. — The Star/ CHAN TAK KONG

“Careful,” warns Abdul Latif Jamaludin to those of us who are about to attempt the inconceivable. “If you kick any of the fish with your foot, I’ll flick you into the water.”

Lake Kenyir Resort & Spa sales manager Abdul Latif, 42, formerly the resort’s sports and recreation manager, is understandably protective when it comes to the Malaysian Mahseer. Like the wild salmon, Mahseers brave rapids to breed in the rocky streams upriver. They feed on a weird combination of algae, crustaceans, insects, frogs, other fish and fruits that fall from trees overhead.

Unfortunately, some of the larger species have declined dramatically over the years, and are now on the endangered list due to pollution, habitat loss and over-fishing.

The Kelah Sanctuary was established to rehabilitate the species. Tourists are granted entry, but their numbers are limited to 40 a day to reduce environmental impact. Fishing, of course, is strictly prohibited.

Getting to the sanctuary is not easy; its accessibility depends on how willing you are to sit out an hour’s worth of rollicky boat-ride from the resort (with magnificent views along the way), and an additional half-hour of huffing and puffing through a forest believed to be millions of years old.

In fact, the place is so secluded that producers of the reality series Survivor had intended to film their next season in this very place — until fate messed with their plans.

The hills are alive

“This feels like a scene from Apocalypse Now,” says my friend, as the boatman expertly navigates us past each river bend under the light drizzle. “This could be Vietnam or the Amazon.”

We had left the sanctuary and are now heading to Lasir Falls, one of the more popular waterfalls in the area because of its 500-foot drop and multi-tiered ponds. Apart from the waterfalls, there is also a limestone cave called Gua Bewah in the vicinity.

However, I am told that we are giving that a miss because it is being cordoned off for further excavation works following the discovery of Malaysia’s oldest artefact early this year. Carbon-dating has revealed it to be a 16,000-year-old skeleton dating back to the Mesolithic age.

Up ahead, an otter emerges from the water’s edge and disappeares into the foliage before any of us can snap pictures of it. Still, many in our group who were silent a minute ago have become chatty and visibly exhilarated over this random encounter. Although the sighting of any wildlife is usually cause for celebration, Abdul Latif says he’s spotted bigger animals before.

“I was with a group of tourists recently, and we saw something black swimming in the water. So we stopped the engine and held our breaths for 15 minutes. When it leapt onto land, we realised it was a panther!” he exclaims.

“I’ve also seen a tiger crossing the road when I least expected it. But that’s usually what nature is like. Nothing is promising.”

In Lake Kenyir, however, your chances increase significantly. After all, the man-made lake was once part of the tropical lowland rainforest that surrounds the area. It was created in 1985, after large tracts of the forest spanning over 209,199ha were felled to construct a hydroelectric dam.

Nature lover: Abdul Latif Jamaludin has lived in Lake Kenyir for three years.

To give you a sense of its size, Lake Kenyir is 1½ times larger than Penang island. There is no exact estimation of the number of species of flora and fauna existing within this vast ecosystem, but local villagers and the indigenous tribes have to share their space with elephants, tigers, panthers, gibbons and even crocodiles.

Although a large number of the animals were caught and transported elsewhere (to Taman Negara, for instance, at the southern end of the lake) when the dam was created, nobody really knows how many animals slipped through and were subsequently lost.

Then, according to past records, came the the unexpected downpour. What was supposed to be completed within a year happened within two weeks, and the dam started to fill up.

The fast-rising lake soon claimed everything, including millions of ringgit’s worth of machinery.

The 340 islands we are gawking at are not really islands but hilltops above 138m in height. What was once a virgin forest became a murky, mystifying underwater world. I’m told that years after the great flood the submerged trees continued to be harvested for their top-notch wood — a potentially dangerous job attempted by many but pulled off by few.

“A group of Thai divers were invited to chop these trees underwater. That went well. They were eventually replaced by Canadian loggers, who came with fancy-schmancy robotics. They were, for the most part, unsuccessful. That’s what happens when you think you’re able to outsmart nature,” says Abdul Latif.

Try as I might, I can’t make out the tree carcasses and rusty metal that lie in the depths of Lake Kenyir. Beneath the cloudy sky, the lake resembles an emerald-tinted mirror, reflecting the hills and heavens. Dozens of dead branches and twigs stick out from the water like proud testaments to the past, contributing a sense of surrealism to the already picture-perfect scenery.

Nature’s last resort

There’s nothing better than to wake up by the edge of the lake, to the sound of squawking birds and cheeky primates. In a place filled with spartan digs and ill-equipped boathouses, the Lake Kenyir Resort & Spa has the final say in style and comfort. However, visitors will be disappointed if they expect satin quilts and flat-screen TVs.

Think shabby chic, not ultra luxe.

The resort itself has been around for years, and comprises 135 kampung-style chalets built on what was once a hilly oil palm plantation. DRB-Hicom Berhad wanted the resort to blend with its natural settings and, at the same time, reflect the rich cultural heritage of Terengganu.

It was a tricky task, but the company managed to create a place that is actually pretty nice, complete with big, shady trees and decently landscaped gardens. These new trees are home to a variety of birds, making the resort and its environs (especially Sungai Buweh Road) a birdwatcher’s paradise.

“Most people would go to Sabah and Sarawak for birding. They don’t know Kenyir has nine hornbill species, which is more than the two states. With a bit of luck and skill, you can see all nine species in and around the resort in one day,” says Anuar McAfee, 45, vice chairman of Malaysian Nature Society in the Terengganu district, and an avid birder.

Shabby chic: The Lake Kenyir Resort & Spa.

The hornbills are part of the more than 230 residents and migrant species that live in Kenyir. Other interesting birds include the peregrine falcon, which can swoop down at 400kph, making it the fastest bird in the world, as well as the elusive forest pigeon, brighter and more beautiful than its city counterparts.

According to McAfee, the resident birds are here all year, but migrant birds from the north fly in between September and April. The best time to birdwatch is in the early morning, between sunrise and 10.30am, and in the late afternoon, from 4.30am to sunset.

“Some might say luck is involved in spotting interesting birds, but I think the more time you spend in the field observing birds, the better your identification skills, the more likely you are to find something special,” he says.

I am a hopeless birder, impatient and easily distracted, but I meet an elderly Singaporean lady with bionic eyes the very next day who proves McAfee right.

“Look, look!” she yelps excitedly. “Can you see the flock of birds in the trees? Absolutely gorgeous!”

As she points out a bunch of invisible birds, I find myself growing disheartened. No matter how hard I squint, I can’t make anything out. But neither can her group of travel companions.

There’s something in the air that makes people giddy with cheerfulness, no matter how exasperating the situation seems. Abdul Latif claims that there’s a science behind this.

“When you’re in the office, on the phone, in front of the computer, you’re exposed to all these positive ions, making you sick in the long run,” he says. “But when you get out here and surround yourself with nature’s negative ions, you’re neutralising your body, recharging it.”

The Kuala Lumpur native, who is a bit of a Tarzan now, has lived here for more than three years. He says he doesn’t wish to be anywhere else.

“When I’m alone, I like to go to the jetty and talk to the trees and animals. Once you understand nature, you realise it’s God’s greatest gift to mankind,” he says.

It’s a pity then, that only last year newspapers reported that yet another tract of forest north of Kenyir Lake would be sacrificed for dams and timber. The Tembat and Petuang forest reserves is home to countless species of wildlife like the highly endangered Sumatran rhinoceros, Malayan tiger and Malayan gaur.

It also harbours the Asian elephant, tapir, primates, wild cats and plants, of which 94 species are Red Listed as threatened by extinction by the International Union for Conservation of Nature.

But never mind that, nature soldiers on in the face of development, brave and persistent. If this is Apocalypse Now, I’d pray for the end of the world every day.

Getting there:

From Kuala Lumpur, the shortest route is via Kuantan, taking the Jerangau-Jabor Highway to Lake Kenyir. Those from the south can take the Kota Tinggi-Mersing route to Kuantan, then up the Jerangau-Jabor Highway.

For those coming from the north, head towards Kuala Terengganu, then make your way to Lake Kenyir. If you don’t fancy driving, then there is the Tasik Kenyir Express Coach Service departing from Kuala Lumpur which drops you off at the resort’s doorstep.

Tel: (09)-666 8888/(03)-2052 7766

www.lakekenyir.com

Live loud and vivid

2010-05-23T21:35:00.000+08:00

By KEE HUA CHEE

Sydney is once again hosting the biggest music and light festival in the southern hemisphere called Vivid Sydney.

Beginning May 27, the southern hemisphere will once again light up at night and the music will flow as Vivid Sydney, Australia’s grand festival of music and light, kicks off four weeks of revelry.

Billed as an annual “festival of light, music and ideas”, Vivid Australia is aimed at flooring Sydney-siders and visitors alike with sensory overload. The festival is designed to tap the city’s creative pulse and uses Sydney’s city centre as a living canvas, incorporating Macquarie Street, Circular Quay and Darling Harbour into the festivities.

Dining by Darling Harbour

Of course, the iconic Opera House will also once again be put to good use.

The Opera House’s roofs will serve as a canvas for spectacular colours and designs — all without a drop of paint desecrating its tiles, as the colours will be coming from lights projected onto the building as night falls. How’s that for dramatic but eco-friendly effect?

Last year’s inaugural Vivid Sydney festival saw some 200,000 people being drawn to The Rocks and Circular Quay, as Brian Eno presented his Lighting the Sails, a light show that came on every evening, bathing the Opera House in an ever-changing kaleidoscope of light. A spectacle to behold, the show was broadcast to nearly 200 countries and was seen by 60 million all over the world over the duration of the festival.

Eno said of his show: “I wanted to create a situation where you could experience some kind of surrender. When you stop being you and stop thinking about you and your particular life and existence; the laundry you forgot to pick up or the coffee you crave.”

“For a little while, I want you to surrender to something . . . even if it is inconsequential.”

This year, rocker Lou Reed and performance artist Laurie Anderson will take over from Eno, so the world is waiting with bated breath to see what the two will pull out of the hat.

While the Opera House is expected to provide the festival’s most vivid images, a host of other events and exhibitions is set to keep the festivities humming along nicely, as people are encouraged to watch and participate in musical performances and other cultural celebrations.

Vivid Sydney comes packaged in six segments: Vivid Live at Sydney Opera House, Macquarie Visions, Fire Water, Creative Sydney, X Media Lab and Song Summit.

Vivid Live (May 28-June 11)

A music festival with an edge, Vivid Live is held at the Sydney Opera House and highlighted by the lighting of the sails. It is being curated this year by two cultural heavyweights, legendary rock musician Lou Reed, founder of the Velvet Underground, and Laurie Anderson, who is known for her music, composition, poetry, filmmaking and audio-visual work.

Being a multi-media festival, it is expected to showcase ground-breaking film, theatre and visual arts. By the way, did I forget to mention that Grammy Award-winning singer Rickie Lee Jones is also scheduled to perform?

Vivid Live is held at the Sydney Opera House and highlighted by the lighting of the sails.

Fire Water (June 11-14)

Under normal circumstances, fire and water are two things that don’t mix but since this is a festival that is anything but ordinary, they do! Fire Water is a free show featuring flames, food and fire sculptures revolving around the voyage of the Sydney Cove, a ship sent from Calcutta to Sydney in 1796 by merchant Robert Campbell, of the Campbell Cove fame.

This contemporary reinterpretation is told from the perspective of an 11-year-old Indian-Australian girl, using live performances, pop-up sets, animation, You Tube-styled projection and multimedia to create a theatrical event of epic proportions.

The show includes a Bollywood-styled, song-and-dance performance featuring tall ships arriving in the midst of Deepavali celebrations.

The soundscape is by world famous tabla player Bobby Singh and multi-instrumentalist Shenzo Gregorio.

Macquarie Visions (May 27-June 20)

Macquarie Street, Sydney’s ceremonial thoroughfare, is transformed into a fantasyland with huge immersive light displays to celebrate the 200th anniversary of two visionary personalities, Governor Lachlan Macquarie and his wife Elizabeth.

Creative Sydney (June 5-13 June)

Creative Sydney gathers the luminaries of the creative industries from across the globe for some awe-inspiring exchange of ideas, debates, presentations and performances.

As one-third of Australia’s creative minds live in New South Wales and 82% live in metropolitan Sydney, the city is well equipped for this pow-wow, so get ready for some fireworks of the creative kind.

X Media Lab (June 18-20)

As the creative industries’ think-tank, XML provides a platform for the planet’s leading lights in the creative, business and technology fields to share ideas. It also helps local businesses to develop new, radical thinking in tough times.

XML has been held in 13 cities previously, and the theme for the Sydney edition is “Global Media Cultures”. It will link Australia’s media practitioners with their peers in global digital markets.

Song Summit (June 19-21)

Song Summit gathers talents of the music industry and spans all genres of music. The three-day conference is an invaluable network for songwriters, musicians, singers and those involved in the music industry.

There will be a nightly programme of shows and singing, so even those who are tone-deaf and can’t read a note, can enjoy it.

Shopping & nightlife (anytime)

When it comes to shopping, you will be spoiled rotten, regardless of whether you are into arty handicraft, designer gear or aboriginal art.

Sydney’s nightlife can also be as ritzy or decadent as you please, so now is the best time to sample the best and most riotous aspects of the city.

The Malaysian market is deemed so important that we even have our own Vivid Sydney website in collaboration with Malaysia Airlines! Check out vividsydney.com.my

Sydney has a past

2010-05-23T21:34:00.001+08:00

By GILLIAN & HOWARD BIRNSTIHL

A good reference book and walk around the city will help you to discern the shape and growth of Sydney from the settlement to the city it is today.

The people of Sydney are justly proud of the way their city has developed into one of the world’s most sought after places to visit.

Many cities have landmarks that are synonymous with their name, like New York with its Time Square and the grand old Empire State Building. But probably no metropolis has a more identifiable showpiece than the Sydney Opera House, a building so visible and so striking that one could hardly miss it.

An elegant cottage of the 1840s.

But talking of missing, I wonder if travellers to these shores realise that Sydney possesses a rich history of architecture.

Take a walk along Macquarie Street from Bennalong Point (after a browse around the Opera House, naturally) to Hyde Park, and much of that history unfolds before your eyes.

Although none of the buildings of the first settlement survive today, the architecture of Macquarie Street, plus the names of nearby streets, coves and parks — even the pattern of the nearby streets — can help one to understand the way the city developed so quickly from a pristine rocky landscape to an internationally renowned social centre, and all within 200 years.

The wonderful thing about architecture is that it is not hidden away in galleries or museums, so the sense of the past is very real.

Having a safe, deep harbour was what made this place irresistible to Captain Arthur Phillip, when in 1788 he unloaded 1,480 convicts, soldiers and officials at what is now called Circular Quay. Life was as hard as one could imagine in a hot unforgiving environment so strange to British sensibilities, but build these early settler had to, and build they did. Soon their tents were replaced by the roughest of structures.

An old government house.

However, the wattle and daub and cabbage tree huts, and even the first stone structures failed to withstand the Sydney weather for long. But with each successive generation of buildings replacing a previous one, or going up around it, the pathway between the patchwork of blocks eventually became the streets.

They are hardly the carefully planned and laid-out web one finds in Melbourne but ask any Sydney-sider which has more character.

Between 1820 and 1840, Sydney became a thriving whaling centre, and this brought even more colourful characters to what was now known as The Rocks. Hotels, inns and sly grog shops lined every street. The narrow roads and laneways became even more crammed with buildings but as the local sandstone was easy to cut and shape, the town was soon bristling with a forest of simple, plain Georgian-styled houses so common in England at the time.

The first stone to be quarried was softer and easier to work but easily eroded. Stone from lower down had the benefit of being tougher, and perhaps the homes and inns which survive today do so because of this, or perhaps it’s sheer luck?

More old buildings may have survived, but in 1910 Sydney had a bubonic plague scare and many were demolished as a consequence. Then in the 1920s, the Sydney Harbour Bridge, precursor of the Opera House, appeared as the face of Australia and whole streets were demolished in its wake.

Beside The Hero Of Waterloo in Windmill Street are two other magnificent survivors — an early inn, The Shipwright’s Arms, and a five-storey block of flats built for working men in 1910.

Today The Rocks has become a most acceptable place to live and many cottages have been lovingly restored. Georgian paned windows, dormer windows and delicate fanlights above doorways create a streetscape of infinite variety. Old warehouses have become galleries, restaurants and boutiques. Once again, The Rocks is buzzing with people from all over the world — and this time they weren’t compelled but chose to come.

The northern wing of the Rum Hospital.

The three-storey house at 39, Lower Fort Street was designed by John Verge. Convicts were usually servants in houses like this, and in this instance, a special retractable staircase was used to isolate the domestic staff from the rest of the house.

In 1810, Governor Macquarie had great plans for Sydney but was thwarted by the conservative English government who did not share his zeal. However, an early scheme of his resulted in a hospital with a barracks for surgeons. What remains today are those barracks.

Being a political animal by nature, and perhaps an opportunist — and how could you not be and survive in the colonies? — Macquarie did a deal with three businessmen to build the hospital in return for three years’ monopoly in the rum trade.

A rum deal indeed, you might say, but Sydney got its hospital, even if it was one where one was more likely to leave it dead than alive, or so they used to say.

The south wing of that hospital survives to this very day as it became the Mint in 1855. Ten million dollars worth of gold sovereigns were minted in the three years following the gold rushes in NSW and Victoria at the time.

Meanwhile, the eager-beaver Macquarie found he could not rely on the designs in the architecture book his wife had brought out from England, and so in 1814, he latched on to Francis Greenway, a man transported to the colonies for the crime of forgery.

Perhaps Macquarie recognised a fellow dynamo in Greenway, who was from a family of architects, stone masons and quarry-men — three trades desperately needed in the colonies.

Hyde Park Barracks was designed by Greenway in the traditional Georgian style and demonstrates his considerable skill. Nine hundred male convicts were housed in the Barracks. These men had previously had to fend for themselves, but the nightmare brawling, robbery and worse decreased markedly after the Barracks came into use.

On completion of this building, Greenway was granted a full pardon.

After “transportation” ceased in 1842, Mrs Caroline Chisholm took over the Barracks and turned it into an accommodation for single female immigrants.

A copy of old warehouses at The Rocks.

Just one of the more sophisticated ventures in this primitive time was Vaucluse House, which became the home of W. C. Wentworth in 1830. W. C. was the son of Darcy Wentworth, who was one of the Rum Hospital financiers and is famous for his crossing of the Blue Mountains to help open up the vast potential which lay beyond.

Perhaps more interesting is the fact that the first building on the site was a small stone cottage built by an eccentric Irishman — aren’t they all? — who had a phobia of black snakes. He dug a six-foot moat dug around the property and, for good measure, filled it with 150 tons of good Irish soil specially imported from home in biscuit barrels.

In case you’re wondering, apparently the moat worked, and he was never troubled by snakes again.

Who knows what Macquarie would make of the present day Sydney, but is it any wonder that it is such a thriving bustling place with its history of such dedicated and creative thinkers and doers? Take a wander around. There’s much more of the past to see than I have dipped into here.

Get yourself a taste of the past.

Calling on Anak Krakatoa

2010-05-23T21:31:00.001+08:00

By WAYNE JOHNSON

One hundred twenty seven years after an eruption tore Krakatoa island apart, a child has emerged — blusterous yet charming.

THE name Krakatoa became synonymous with destruction and the force of nature after an eruption in 1883 which killed more than 100,000 people. It’s on record as being the loudest explosion ever.

And the power it generated blew a whole island into three separate pieces, altered the world’s climate for a few years and depopulated the coastlines of Java and Sumatra for generations. For many years afterwards, the seas in the Sunda Straits remained calm, but now — as they say in the movies — “It’s back”.

The climb begins: wide boulevards lead to the steep slopes of Krakatoa.

A new volcanic island, Anak Krakatoa (Child of Krakatoa), has been rapidly emerging from the ocean for the last 75 years in the centre of the old caldera. It now broods menacingly over the sea with smoke drifting up from its summit and the occasional angry outpouring of rock or molten lava.

This active new arrival is surrounded by the three islands which are the remains of the original Krakatoa before its spectacular demise. These are now covered in lush greenery in sharp contrast to their new ash-coloured neighbour. The Krakatoa islands are accessible by boat from the west Java resort towns of Carita and Anyer, although they tend to be more popular with foreign visitors than Indonesians.

There are various ways to get to them, ranging from established tour operators with modern boats fitted with safety equipment to fishing boats that can be hired. The cost varies considerably between the two options but the tour operators will take you there in 90 minutes (as opposed to five hours in a fishing boat), and they have radios and life jackets in case things go wrong.

To enjoy the experience in fine weather and to avoid rough seas and potential disaster, you would do well to visit during the dry season between April and October. Then the seas are calm and chances of rain in the morning are minimal. It also allows you, if you are lucky, to catch a glimpse of dolphins and flying fish leaping in and out of the water.

It’s an eerie experience when you do finally land on Anak Krakatoa, an active volcano that is still emerging from the sea. There is a Jurassic Park feel to it, what with giant insects populating the dense vegetation that crowds the island’s lower reaches, framing the bare, scorched slopes looming above.

Local wildlife, such as this monitor lizard, seem used to human encounters.

Although the island is deserted, there is a sign at the small landing area welcoming visitors to Krakatoa National Park, along with information and diagrams about the islands before and after the cataclysmic eruption of 1883.

We also found other less welcoming signs of human presence in the discarded plastic boxes and coke cans that littered the area around the sign.

However, these do not detract from the other-worldly feel of the place.

Walking through this part is relatively easy though, as the lava flows from the caldera have created what looks like well-maintained, wide asphalt roads, cutting through the forest to the sea. These wide boulevards lead to the steep slopes of Krakatoa. But the initial ascent up a steep ridge is often enough to dissuade people from attempting to climb the whole peak. Under a fierce Indonesian sun, this can test the endurance of even the fittest hiker as the incline is steep and there is no cover.

There is also the slight element of fear as you look around at the huge boulders strewn all around — obviously spewed from the crater — and start listening or straining your eyes for any sign of increased activity. This is no idle threat. In the past, tourists who have ignored warnings and attempted to climb to the peak when it was active have been killed by hot rocks raining down on them.

At the top of the ridge, the steep conical slopes leading to the caldera loom ahead, but scrupulous tourist operators will not allow you to attempt to climb this part. The slopes are scarred with yellow sulphur, and hot steam spurts menacingly from fissures in the surface.

For me, the ridge was far enough from which to admire the active volcano and also for views of the other four islands that make up the archipelago. The heat of the day, though, was overpowering (be careful to bring plenty of sunblock and a hat), and I was happy to begin the descent back to the boat.

On the Ridge you can admire the active volcano and see the other islands of the archipelago.

It was then a short boat journey to one of the larger forested islands where lunch was served on the beach. Despite the total absence of other people during my visit, the animals here seemed used to human encounters. A large monitor lizard was not shy to join our party when it smelt cooked chicken. Although it was thrown a few scraps, this did not do the trick as later we saw it swimming in the sea looking for fish.

The area chosen for snorkelling did not seem promising as it was very close to the shore and the sea was a very dark green. However, I was more than pleasantly surprised when I plunged in and saw the large numbers of multi-coloured coral and shoals of purple and blue fish and larger parrot fish.

It was a total shock to discover how quickly the coral shelf ended and turned into a sheer drop hundreds of feet down into blue nothing. With images of sharks, or some other creature from the deep surfacing from below assailing me, I quickly retreated to the safety of the shallow coral reef.

It was a wrench to finally leave this iconic and surprisingly peaceful place, but the rain clouds were gathering in the distance and I had had enough adventure for one day without being battered by high waves and strong winds on the way back to Java.

Go: Diving with responsibility

2010-04-29T23:50:00.000+08:00

RIDZWAN A. RAHIM

ridzwanr@nstp.com.my

Avid scuba diver RIDZWAN A. RAHIM thinks there may be merit in limiting the number of visitors to Redang

Scuba diving should be a passive activity. A responsible diver keeps his hands to himself

I feel like a water-baby these days. I love snorkelling and scuba diving. And even the simple pleasure of jumping off jetties and boats to swim in the clear waters of our islands.

And I do prefer paying less for my island holidays.

But I can understand why the authorities are looking to increase the cost of staying in Redang Island.

Recently, the Terengganu State government announced that from now on, only five-star resorts and hotels will be allowed to operate on the island.

What that means in ringgit and sen is this: Expect to pay some RM1,600 a night for your future Redang getaway.

That’s a quantum leap from the few hundred ringgit that you can get from budget resorts currently operating on the island. Lots of people have already started moaning.

The reason for the move, according to Terengganu Menteri Besar Datuk Seri Ahmad Said, is to protect the island’s fragile natural beauty, especially its coral reef and marine life.

Because of the affordable accommodation, too many people are visiting Redang, he said. As a result, pollution and environmental damage have gone out of control.

“We want to turn Redang into a niche market to control the number of visitors. We are concerned about the environmental damage that is happening on Redang,” he added. Redang is widely regarded as one of 10 most beautiful islands in the world.

It is so beautiful that in the late 90s, a Hong Kong production team chose the island as the location site for the film, Summer Holiday, starring Richie Ren and Sammi Cheng.

The screening of the film in 2000 gave the island a huge amount of publicity and created a surge in both local and international visitors.

And they have not stopped coming since, in particular because a trip here is very affordable.

Businessman Neoh Jiun Yih came to Redang with his wife, child and five of his staff.

He paid for everything, including airfare, to reward the staff for hitting their sales target.

“I’m very happy for my staff. Some of them had never been on an island trip before, never taken the plane before,” he said when met recently in the island.

A school of trevally

“I spent a total of RM5,500, including flight tickets and three days, two nights full accommodation for seven. That’s the great thing about this place.

“But if we go with what the State government is suggesting — that is, RM1,600 per night for a single person — this trip will be impossible for a small business owner like me,” said Neoh.

Protecting Redang’s

Natural Treasures

For me personally, Redang has a special place in my heart. This was where I overcame my fear of water and other obstacles and completed my Padi Open Water diver certification.

One of my most memorable dives was at the Bahagia shipwreck, a cargo ferry that lies 15m under the sea. It has been there for the past six years. You can swim through the ship’s small toilet without having to pay 30 sen.

More recently, my friends and I chanced upon a brand new shipwreck in Redang. The two Vietnamese boats, each about 30m long, were at a dive site called Sandy Bottom.

Our dive master said we were the first to visit the shipwreck as the boats sank only about two days earlier. It was a pleasant surprise.

But, as I mentioned earlier, I can understand if the government wants to somehow control the number of divers coming to the island.

Ever since taking up scuba diving more than a year ago, I am more aware of how interaction with humans can have an adverse effect on the fragile marine environment.

One of the misconceptions people have about the marine life is that they are there for touching.

If they find a turtle, for example, they would try and see if they can ride on it.

They think the whole point of taking up scuba diving is so that you could go down there and touch things or ride on things — something you can’t do when snorkelling. This is wrong.

As a scuba diving student, I was taught from very early on that diving is a passive activity. You are free to observe the marine creatures but never to touch them.

In fact, our instructors told us to keep our arms folded most of the time, and to move slowly and silently so as not to disrupt the natural rhythm of the marine life.

We were also forbidden from wearing gloves, because with gloves, you are more likely to touch things.

I follow these rules religiously.

However, things can still go wrong. For example, during underwater photography.

I am not a photographer but I now see that if you intend to dabble in underwater photography, you must have good buoyancy control — the ability to suspend in mid-water.

Without this skill, a photographer will constantly kick, scull or wave to stay in place or worse, hold on to or step on a coral.

Sometimes, the photographer gets too engrossed in the activity without realising that his gauge has gotten unclipped and is dragging across the coral reefs, destroying them.

Of course, some allowances can be made. For example, when there’s strong undersea current, you have no choice but to hold on to something.

The point is, accidents can and will happen. We cannot design a system that does not allow people to make mistakes.

But we must do all we can to minimise mistakes, to tell people that they must avoid contact with the sensitive marine life.

That is why the use of fins (or flippers) for snorkelling is banned in Redang. There have been instances in the past where snorkellers used their fins to rest on the corals.

Making It Really Special

We want people to enjoy our country’s beautiful islands but we want them to do it responsibly. Otherwise, our children and their children may not get to enjoy what we have today.

Now about the proposed pricing. Most of the visitors to Redang are locals and personally, I don’t know anyone who can afford a RM1,600-per-night stay.

So it must be not for Malaysians.

Redang risks losing tourists to alternative destinations like Pulau Perhentian, or even Pukhet or Bali, which have become affordable now with cheap AirAsia flights.

I don’t think people are not willing to pay, but it has to be substantiated.

Perhaps packages can be tailored for different segments of the market.

The problem with scuba divers, though, is that we are typically not fussy. We are happy with a decent room, decent buffet meals and Internet access.

We don’t need LCD TV, Astro or mini-bar. We don’t spend much time in our rooms anyway. Which is what budget (RM320 for 3D/2N) accommodations like Redang Pelangi Resort where I stayed at, is already offering.

So it’s going to take a lot — A LOT — of imagination on the part of the resort and the State government to come up with something that will make us pay RM1,600 a night.

One idea is underwater videography. Based on my experience, resorts can make a handsome profit from this.

On a diving trip in Sipadan last year, someone approached our group, offering to shoot videos of our dives, edit them and burn them to DVD.

Guess what? We agreed. We paid him RM1,000 on top of the RM2,000-plus per person that we had already paid for accommodation. But we got a nice little something to bring home.

People on holiday want to relax. They don’t want to have to fiddle with anything, much less cameras or video editing. But they want to bring back memories. If the place is special enough, and if the price is right, they will be more than willing to pay.

MAN not the only ones to blame

ALL it takes is just one careless act by an irresponsible holidaymaker to destroy reefs that take hundreds of years to form.

But human interaction is not the only cause of damage to the fragile marine environment. There are a host of other factors as well, many of which are beyond our control.

Corals are sensitive to water temperature and global warming has a catastrophic impact on coral reefs. Corals bleach and die when their upper temperature threshold is exceeded.

The El Nino phenomenon of 1998 destroyed much of the world’s coral reefs through mass bleaching. Some of these corals are still in recovery process now.

Other natural threats include storms and, on this side of Malaysia, monsoons. They bring about powerful waves that can damage corals and churn up seabed, causing sedimentation that can block sunlight needed by the coral.

And then, there’s disease. Bacteria, fungi and virus may attack coral polyps and kill them.

There is also damage by reef animals. Crown of Thorn starfish is among the biggest natural predator of corals. A single starfish can devour as much as six square metres of coral a year. Therefore, an outbreak in their number can destroy entire reefs.

Which is why, during ocean clean-up exercises, divers hunt for the Crown of Thorn.

Other threats include damage caused by fishermen through destructive fishing practices (using cyanide or explosives) and fishing boats that anchor on coral reefs.

A broadclub cuttlefish crawling on the seabed

Peonies in full bloom

2010-04-18T19:56:00.000+08:00

TAN BEE HONG

Fields of mudan hua burst forth in full bloom in Luoyang, China every year in April and May. TAN BEE HONG is on cloud nine enjoying the full splendour of the peonies

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The artist from Beijing concentrates on her sketches of mudan hua" border="0"> The artist from Beijing concentrates on her sketches of mudan hua

A SUBTLE fragrance fills the air in Luoyang come every spring and summer as its official flower, the mudan hua (peony) bursts forth in vibrant shades and colours. No wonder poets like Li Bai were inspired to compose three verses on the spot about the beauty of the flower.

He also wrote one at the request of Emperor Xuan Zong, comparing the peony to concubine Yang Gui Fei, one of the Four Classic Beauties of Chinese history.

“The famous flower and the beautiful lady enjoy each other’s company. It is a scene that always brings a smile to the emperor’s face.”

April is the month of the peony and locals as well as thousands and thousands of visitors converge on Luoyang to admire the flower.

Long revered by the royalty, the peony has been cultivated for three thousand years. There are, today, over 1,000 varieties of peonies in Luoyang and some have single layer petals while others have multiple petals. As for the colours, these range from white and red to yellow, violet, pink, blue, green and even black though I didn’t get to see this variety. Some, I am told, bloom a certain colour and age into a secondary shade.

Royal Decree

There are many legends about the peony, and one of them tells of the peony’s defiance of the rich and powerful, and its refusal to yield to brute force.

One snowy day in 691AD, China’s only female Emperor Wu Zetian had this sudden whimsical desire to view her garden in full bloom, so she issued an edict ordering all the plants to bloom during the night for her to admire during her walk the next day. Sounds like King Canute ordering the tide to recede, doesn’t it?

Only, in this tale, all the plants in the garden, awed by the power of the Wu, began to bud and bloom that night, except the peony.

Humiliated, Wu flew into a rage and banished all the peonies in the Tang capital of Chang’an to Luoyang where the peonies produced even larger and more beautiful flowers. Since then, Luoyang has been called the Home Of The Peonies.

Where To Go

In Luoyang, you can admire the peony everywhere. But for a truly spectacular sight, go to Wangcheng Park, China National Flower Garden, International Peony Garden, Xiyuan Park, Shengzhou Peony Park and Luoyang Peony Garden.

Also known as King Of The Flower Kingdom, Queen Of Flowers and First Of 10,000 Flowers, the peony is China’s national flower and a symbol of happiness and prosperity.

At the International Peony Garden, I spot, sitting in the midst of peonies in full bloom, an artist patiently sketching the flower. She says she has come all the the way from Beijing by train just to catch the peony in bloom as Luoyang is where the most beautiful flowers can be found.

It’s not just the beauty of the peony that attracts. The flower was believed to have medicinal properties. According to the Shen Nong Classic of Materia Medica (Qin Dynasty, 221-206BC), the peony has cooling effects and boosts blood circulation. It is also used to scent pastries and other dishes.

Flemington by the Lake

2010-04-18T19:53:00.000+08:00

LOW MEI MAY

LOW MEI MAY is smitten by the beauty of Taiping’s lake garden and the town’s various attractions

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Raintree Café serves both local and western fare" border="0"> Raintree Café serves both local and western fare Former tin mines, now tranquil man-made lake" border="0"> Former tin mines, now tranquil man-made lake

Former tin mines, now tranquil man-made lake

MALAYSIA’S oldest lake garden sits right in front of the hotel. On that point alone, Flemington Hotel must be the choice for holidaymakers or travellers staying in Taiping, one of the country’s oldest and loveliest towns.

Taiping, in north Perak, is a small town — serene, tranquil and quiet. But to be able to wake up, look out of the window and see the greeneries and the blue of a large man-made lake is heavenly.

The hotel itself isn’t an architectural wonder. It’s simple and functional. Which is just fine, as there’s no need to compete with the beauty of the lake gardens and further away, Bukit Larut (formerly, Maxwell Hill).

Taiping Lake Gardens beckons — for a walk in the morning or evening; picnics or jogging; or to just lie down on the grass to read. Or visit Taiping Zoo within the vicinity of the lake to hear the roaring of tigers or chirping of birds, among other animals. Taiping Zoo opens day and night.

The hotel lobby can be very busy as the coffeehouse — the aptly-named Raintree Cafè — is right next to the reception area but do not fret as you can always rest your eyes on the greenery outside while waiting to be checked in. It is no wonder that Flemington’s Chinese restaurant, Hu Jing Ge, is popular for wedding receptions.

Another popular spot at the hotel is its lounge and sky bar, located on the rooftop.

The rooftop is the best spot to view the lake gardens, its surroundings and Taiping itself.

Also on the rooftop is a small swimming pool.

For a three-star hotel, Flemington boasts value-for-money facilities. The rooms are equipped with 32-inch LCD television with selected satellite TV, wireless Internet connection, hot & cold facilities, safe deposit boxes, hairdryer and even a work desk.

The hotel offers single, king or queen size beds.

Finding the hotel is not a problem even if you have never been to Taiping. Just head to the lake gardens and directional signs will take you to the hotel’s doorstep but if you do get lost in the vicinity, just enjoy the lake gardens for you will surely find Flemington.

Don’t worry about the scorching sun as the large century-old raintrees on both sides of the roads within the lake gardens provide excellent shade.

Besides the lake gardens, Taiping boasts of many firsts — the oldest prison, the oldest railway station, the oldest museum and the oldest hill station. But you don’t have to be of retirement age to make Taiping your home as you can learn so much about the history of this country by just visiting the town.

Another plus for Taiping is its delicious and cheap food. If your stomach has space for only one thing, the popiah is a must-have. It is available in a coffeeshop along the main road near the lake gardens.

Fast Facts

Hotel
1 Jalan Semanea Saman
Taiping, Perak
Tel: 05-820-7777

Getting There
When you reach Taiping town, follow the signboard to Taiping Lake Gardens and drive along the road surrounding the lake. Flemington Hotel is on the left.

First Impression
New and busy.

Rooms
Total of 116 well furnished rooms and suites. Four types of room — Superior, Lake View Premier, Junior Suites and Lake View Executive Suites. Equipped with LCD television and satellite channels. Choice of single, king or queen size beds

Facilities
Individually-controlled air-conditioning, hot and cold water taps, work desk, broadband Internet access facility, direct dial phone, tea and coffee making facilities, safe deposit boxes and hairdryer. Iron and boards are available upon request, laundry, room-service and 24-hour security.

Rates
Please call for their promotional room rates.

Overall Service
Good.

F& B Outlets
Raintree Cafè, Hu Jing Ge Chinese Restaurant, Flemington Lounge and Sky Bar

Places within walking distance
Taiping Lake Gardens, Taiping Zoo & Night Safari, Commonwealth War Memorial and Burmese Pool

Other places of
interest
Malaysia’s oldest train station — Taiping Station; Malaysia’s oldest Prison — Goal Prison; Malaysia’s oldest hill station — Maxwell Hill; Malaysia’s oldest museum — Perak State Musuem; and perhaps the best popiah in the country.

Carved by ocean waves

2010-04-18T19:52:00.000+08:00

PUTRI ZANINA

The Twelve Apostles is only one reason why thousands of people make their way along Australia’s Great Ocean Road. PUTRI ZANINA finds out what else there is to do and see

THE rotor blades spin furiously. Within seconds, the helicopter levitates from the tarmac and we’re in the air. The blue sky envelops us from all sides as the chopper pulls away from the land. We whirl over an immense sea of blue with white fingers of giant waves pounding rugged cliffs lining the spectacularly long and curvy coastline. The hinterland is a carpet of green, broken only by a narrow snaking road with moving vehicles growing to mere dots as we circle higher and higher into the sky. It is an awesome feeling. Then, we hear the pilot’s voice above the roar of the engine: “There, the Twelve Apostles!” So these are the world-famous Apostles — the stunning, larger than life creations of nature that have attracted thousands of people to the Port Campbell National Park along Australia’s Great Ocean Road that measures 285kms from Torquay to Warrnambool. Hugging the shore on the south-west coast of Victoria, the Great Ocean Road is hailed as one of the world’s most spectacular coastal drives and the Twelve Apostles as one of its major attractions. Natural Sculptures Seen from the air, it’s as if there’s a face-off between the rocks and the sea. The high waves pound the towering yellow, sandy cliffs and as their faces seem to “blend”, it’s really hard to say which feature is hitting which. This dramatic natural confrontation has been going on for some 20 million years. Through the sheer force of wind and waves, huge limestone rocks have been carved out of the cliff shore. The waves have eaten away at the rocks at sea level, forming caves on each side of the headland. The caves eventually crumble, forming arches which then collapse, leaving rock stacks. The Twelve Apostles, some rising as high as 11-storey buildings are among these giant rock stacks forlornly holding their own in the swirling waters of the Southern Ocean. Actually, there are no longer 12 Apostles. A few have succumbed to erosion and are now low platforms or reefs. Even when all 12 existed, it was not possible to see them all at once as some were hidden behind headlands or obscured by other rock stacks. They will all disappear some day, so it’s best to go and see them now.

Other rock formations include the London Bridge (could it be falling down soon?) and the Loch Ard Gorge. Here, in 1878, the Loch Ard struck a reef at the tip of Mutton Bird Island and sank, leaving only two survivors out of 54 passengers.

As much as the Twelve Apostles look spectacular, it’s funny how in the last century, they were simply called Sow And Piglets. It was said that Mutton Bird Island, where the Loch Ard went under, was the “sow” and the smaller rock stacks the “piglets”. To continue calling them the Sow And Piglets seemed undignified so Twelve Apostles was thought to be the more apt name.

Though the chopper run by the 12 Apostles Helicopters lasts 15 minutes, the view of the Twelve Apostles, Lord Ard Gorge and the Shipwreck Coast as well as London Bridge, Two Mile Bay, Port Campbell, the long coastline and the Great Ocean Road is incredibly beautiful.

Climbing Up the Cliffs Apart from the chopper ride, you can also walk to the well-protected Twelve Apostles Park near the Heliport launch site. An underpass and a meandering boardwalk lead to vantage viewpoints perched on sloping coastal cliffs. All along the walk, you can see some unique plants that have survived despite the harsh winds, salt-laden air and shallow and infertile soils. There is an abundance of native local plants such as coast cushion bush, silvery tussock grass and coast beard-heath thriving on the undulating rough terrain. The viewpoint platforms offer a truly breathtaking view of the rock stacks and the sea. Strong balmy air sweeps the coast and the waves pound the cliffs way below. Beneath the waters is a remarkable seascape with towering walls covered in colourful seaweeds and sponges that support schools of fishes.

Wrap all these together and the Twelve Apostles Park make for one of the most dramatic sights in the world.

One Great Loop The Great Ocean Road is part of the Great Southern touring route covering over 400kms of coastal road and inland highways traversing scenic landscapes and seascapes. Built between 1919 and 1932, it not only provided work for returning military men but also served as a memorial to soldiers who died in World War One. The far-sightedness of making it a tourist route even then has paid off as it is now a destination of world repute and has very much been left in its rugged wild form. Many tourists begin their drive from Melbourne via the West Gate Bridge and following the Princess Highway towards Ballarat, a rustic town that harks back to the gold rush era. Sovereign Hill in Ballarat has been recreated to become a gold mining town of the 1860s and a stop there is well worth your time. From there, it’s on to Warrnambool before starting the drive along the Great Ocean Road towards Torquay and then returning to Melbourne. It’s one big loop that you simply can’t rush through. There are just so many things to see and do, and many roads to detour. Rivers and creeks have walking tracks that lead to gorges, waterfalls, caves and rainforests. Pick a beach and leave your footprints in the sand. See the sun rise over the ocean or watch it go down over farmland dotted with cottages and windmills so rustic, you’ll just simply not want to leave.

Inland roads, which are mostly one lane each side, are flanked by bushes and towering gum trees interspersed with flat lands against hills and valleys. Strong cross winds often hit certain stretches and you may feel your car shake for a bit. Take power naps at lay-bys along the way — there are signs saying “Droopy eyes? Power nap now!” For safety reasons, it’s best you take heed, as the journey is long and some straight roads can make you feel drowsy.

Charming Coastal Towns Spending a night at Warrnambool is recommended. Set against the gentle arc of Lady Bay, the port town has sheltered beaches and verdant gardens. From May to September, it’s one of the best places in the world for watching whales and it’s also one of the few cities in the world with a whale nursery. This is located at Logans Beach where platforms are erected for viewing Southern Right Whales that come in to calve every year.

Warrnambool is the capital of the Shipwreck Coast and as its name suggests, it’s a perilous section of the Victorian coastline nestled between Moonlight Head and Port Fairy that’s the site for more than 160 shipwrecks and where hundreds of lives were lost at sea.

Much of the city’s history is showcased in the Flagstaff Hill Maritime Village where original buildings, a lighthouse and a port, complete with ships, have been restored. The place also recreates how rugged the life was in Warrnambool during the 19th Century. The collection of shipwreck relics including the famous porcelain peacock which was washed up amongst the wreckage from the Loch Ard in 1878, can be seen in the museum there. A touching story titled Shipwrecked is a permanent part of the museum’s attraction. Through the clever play of sound, laser and water, it tells the story of the Loch Ard disaster. The audience is taken through the journey in a 3D theatre that lets them feel as if they are sinking with the ship into the ocean depths.

From Warrnambool, you’ll drive past the charming coastal towns of Port Campbell, Princetown, Apollo Bay, Lorne and Anglesea before ending with Torquay. While Port Campbell is the show-stopper with its natural sculptures of breathtaking beauty, Apollo Bay, west of the more steep stretches of the Great Ocean Road and east of the rainforest of Great Otway National Park in Cape Otway is the paradise by the sea. It spreads out along a sweeping bay and nestles into the lush greenery of the Otway Ranges. Coastal hamlets, fishing villages, trendy restaurants, cafes and B&Bs make Apollo Bay one of the main holiday resorts along Great Ocean Road.

To ride the waves, there’s Torquay, dubbed the surfing capital of Australia along the Surf Coast, also home to Anglesea with beaches glistening in the briny air and golf fairways stretching for as far as the eyes can see. But often, there are more kangaroos on the fairways than golfers teeing off! Then’s there’s Lorne, with picture-perfect scenery where the Erskine River meets the Loutit Bay.

All along the drive, there are many pit stops where you can feast your eyes on rugged cliffs, blue seas and miles of golden beaches.

How To Get There Malaysia Airlines, AirAsia X and Emirates have direct flights to Melbourne. Rent a car in Melbourne to go on your own self-drive tour of the Great Ocean Road which is part of Victoria’s Great Southern Touring Route. From Melbourne, you can head inland to Geelong or to Warrnambool via the Princess Highway (3½ hours drive) or via the Great Ocean Road (5½ hours).

For more info on the Great Ocean Road, go to www.greatoceanroad.org or www.visitvictoria.com Where To Stay There are many accommodation choices in Melbourne, Warrnambool and all other coastal towns. If you stay in Warrnambool, a good choice is The Sebel Deep Blue (www.mantradeepblue.com.au) located on a tiny peninsula between Lady Bay and Stringray Bay with all rooms facing the magnificent sea vista. The resort is 10 minutes’ drive to the Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum (www.flagstaffhill.com). Twelve Apostles Helicopters’ Scenic Tours The company operating the Twelve Apostles Helicopters’ scenic tours has a heliport in Port Campbell. Four tour packages are available, ranging from a 10-minute tour of Port Campbell and the Twelve Apostles at AU$95 (RM294) per person to a 50-minute tour of Port Campbell right to Cape Otway (AU$395 or RM1,220 per person). Child under three gets to fly for free.

For details, go to www.12apostleshelicopters.com.au

Delights galore

2010-03-05T14:26:00.000+08:00

Melbourne certainly serves up its share of culinary and cultural delights. We had a sampling when we did a walking tour called the Hidden Secrets Art and Design Tour (www.hiddensecretstours.com).

The two-hour walk, conducted by the founder Fiona Sweetman, gave a glimpse into how the city had given space for graffiti to flourish as a street art. Art gallery visits were also supposed to be in the itinerary but they were not open yet when we embarked on our early morning tour.

We also had a look at the coffee culture of the city’s denizens. The tour normally ends, with coffee but we had to rush off for lunch. A pity, because the cafés looked very enticing.

A short walk across to the Southbank along the Yarra River (which has some of the best views of the city skyline from ground level) saw us at our lunch spot, Left Bank (www.leftbankmelbourne.com.au), which is owned by the Emirates Group. It was a set meal, and one of the best lunches I’ve ever had. If you should ever find yourself in this city and have no need to stretch your Aussie dollars, then please try and get a reservation here. It’s worth the trouble.

For some reason, our organisers seemed to think that Malaysians overseas craved Malaysian and Asian food, so dinner that night was at a Thai restaurant called Sawasdee. Run by the Malaysian-born Francis Lim, the restaurant serves food tweaked more for Western taste-buds.

It was an early morning wake-up call the next day as we rushed off to a Melburnian institution, the Queen Victoria Market (www.qvm.com.au). It’s been operating since 1978 and serves the locals’ daily needs. It’s also the place to pick up souvenirs. The market operates from 6am to 3pm but is closed on Mondays and Wednesdays.

A tip, if you’re interested: Go around 8am because that’s when most of the vendors are already in and all set up.

Our next stop was Sovereign Hill (www.sovereignhill.com.au) in Ballarat, more than an hour’s drive from Melbourne. Meeting us there was the affable Ben, a Bluey (that’s an Aussie term for redheads). He shepherded us in our walkabout.

Sovereign Hill is a recreation of the settlement of Ballarat during its first 10 years following the discovery of gold in 1851, from the buildings (a few are original) to the costumes the staff wear. There’s much here to keep one occupied, like the pouring of gold, going down a mine, playing a game of bowling (a very different version, mind you), having your meals in an old diner and panning for gold.

Yes, there are remnants still to be found in the streams, and you can actually get some flecks. Just be careful you don’t get gold fever.

They also have theme tours and overnight stays where you dress up in period costumes. But the real fun is seeing people re-enact scenes from yesteryear and staying very much in character. There’s a treasure trove of acting talent to be mined here.

That night back in Melbourne, dinner was at Little Malaysia, and aptly enough, the keyword here is “little”.

Our next destination was Phillip Island. First we drove through the beautiful Dandenong Ranges and on to the beautiful Yarra Valley. Our first stop was the Warratina Lavender Farm (www.warratinalavender.com.au), a family business run by Annemarie and Peter Manders.

Annmarie herself took us through how she and her staff harvest the lavender to make products from food to cosmetics to household goods. Fascinating! They also have a tea room where they serve delightful lavender scones and honey. The best time to visit is from November to January before harvesting. That’s when you can see a vista of wonderful shades of purple with the lavenders in full bloom.

After that came the fruit feast at Rayners’ Stonefruit Orchard (www.raynerstonefruit.com.au). Normally, the fruit-tasting tour lasts an hour, but as we were running late yet again, we had to rush things. Owner Len Rayner took us on his multi-seater tractor, stopping here and there for us to taste the delectable variety of peach, nectarine, apricot and plums and all the hybrids found in his farm.

They, too, have cafés and loads of products on sale. The orchard is a highly recommended stop between November and April.

At Phillip Island, it was a quick pizza and pasta dinner at Isola Di Capri owned by the Fumagali family who has run the establishment for 35 years. I truly felt like a stuffed koala by the time dinner was done.

The next day proved memorable as we visited the Phillip Island Chocolate Factory (www.phillipislandchocolatefactory.com.au) run by the Malaysian-born L. Kondanapanny and his family. He prefers to be called Panny, the name he markets his chocolates under.

It’s a famous brand here, and the chocolates are certainly some of the best I have ever tasted. A tour of the factory (you need to pay for this, though) to see how the chocolates are made is also part of the experience. It’s filled with interactive experiences and is as delightful as the chocolates.

There’s a café, and Panny went out of his way to prepare a nasi lemak lunch for us. It was heavenly!

The pièce de résistance came on our last night in Melbourne, when we had dinner in the famous Colonial Tramcar Restaurant (www.tramrestaurant.com.au). You dine in an old-style tram as it passes through some of Melbourne’s famous landmarks including the trendy St Kilda.

We had no complaints about the food and the bubbly. The star of the evening, though, was undoubtedly head waiter, Spanish John. He proved to be a rapier wit and was very adept at taking the mickey out of the diners — so much so that sometimes I failed to look out to appreciate the scenery.

Thrills and spills in Vietnam

2010-03-05T14:25:00.000+08:00

By REVATHI MURUGAPPAN

Nature lovers looking for their outdoor adventure fix should head to Dalat, a town that is considered the jewel of Vietnam’s central highlands.

Are you kidding? You guys must be on crack!” exclaimed my dear cousin Sumi when we told her we had signed her up for an advanced canyoning adventure.

You see, it would require us to hike, abseil, jump off cliffs, swim and slide down rocks to get into the canyons.

British tourist, John, going down the body slide head first.

A brochure from Phat Tire Ventures, our adventure operator in Vietnam, read, “The advanced route is for those in moderately good physical condition, looking for a more extreme challenge. The rappels are more technical and are wet drops as opposed to dry. This means you are in the waterfall and not next to it.”

That got me excited.

Our group of four was visiting Dalat, a town considered the jewel of Vietnam’s central highlands and home to many hill-tribe minority groups, when we decided to be adventurous. Renowned for its cool climate, scenic mountains and innumerable streams, Dalat is a favourite among adventure buffs and honeymooners. The canyoning here is highly recommended by most travel guidebooks.

“A bit of exercise won’t kill you,” I retorted, as our fellow buddies Kumaran and Megan nodded in agreement. Sumi, whose daily exercise consists of crossing a 25m pedestrian bridge to hail a cab to work, scowled. This was a suicide mission which she only grudgingly consented to.

Our affable guide Ro picked us up the next morning to begin our journey to Datanla Falls. When he saw Sumi’s troubled expression, he immediately put her at ease.

“It’s OK if you’re not that fit. I’ll help you along. It’s compulsory for all our guides to have good eyesight because of the dangers the activity poses, so don’t worry, I won’t lose sight of you. If need be, I’ll carry you on my back!” joked Ro.

All Phat Tire guides undergo an intensive 30-hour Wilderness First Aid course designed by the Wilderness Medicine Institute and the National Outdoor Leadership School (NOLS). They have to go through a refresher First Aid course each year, plus every one of them has abseiling qualifications from the Singapore Mountaineering Federation. We were in safe hands.

To make it more challenging, the rope ended a few metres before the end of the cliff and you had to jump into the water.

From the highway, you can see the 350m cascading falls. We walked on a path that first passed through a forest of pines and continued steeply down the hill into a rainforest, which was our beginning point. Here we met Ro’s colleague Khaan, and two other British tourists, John and Clarissa, who were joining us on the adventure.

Khaan showed us the ropes and explained the basics of knot tying, harness wearing and proper abseiling techniques while ensuring all of us had a trial run on the practice slope. He emphasised how to take big jumps to avoid the gaping holes and crevices on the hill, and, once he was satisfied we had it down, it was all systems go.

First up was a vertical 20m dry cliff, which looked menacing from the top.

“So which one of you is going to go first?” he asked, looking around for volunteers. “We have five rappels, three body slides and a free fall so everyone gets a chance to go first.”

Sumi darted to the back of the group. John, who had done numerous rock climbing and abseiling trips, put his hand up. Despite his experience, he froze for a few minutes at the starting point and struggled to take that first step.

Khaan coaxed him on.

“Release the rope bit by bit and position your foot on the edge. Then make the first jump. Ro will guide you from the bottom.”

Beads of sweat trickled down John’s face as he hesitated. Eventually, he let go of the rope slowly and screamed triumphantly once he descended.

“It’s not that bad, folks!” he shouted. “It’s only the first step that’s nerve-racking!”

One by one, we abseiled — even Sumi managed all the jumps without scraping herself.

After that, the second rappel was a breeze. It was a 15m cliff which led to a stream. We crossed it and proceeded to the next equally easy rappel, before hiking a trail to the body slide portion. Ro removed his top and showed us how it was done. Slide down on your butt, drop into the lake and swim to the bank. There were two “slides” to explore and this was pure fun. Everyone was having a blast and had several attempts at it.

Ro then mentioned that it was time to “slide the other way”.

“Head down? No way! What if I hit my head on the rocks?” I protested.

Ro brushed my protests aside and proceeded to use me for demonstration. He held my legs while I shut my eyes tight. When my arms were positioned correctly, he let me go and I slid smoothly into the lake. The adrenaline rush felt great.

After all that activity, the Vietnamese boys made us yummy sandwiches, and a simple yet scrumptious lunch was served. We traded stories and John impressed us with his chilli eating skills. Yes, the Brit could bite into the green chillies and it seemed to have no effect on him.

Next up was the free fall, where we had to jump 6m off a cliff and into a pool. This was akin to bungee-jumping, except there was no elastic rope to pull you back up. On the count of three, you leapt off. Although a seemingly easy jump, some dawdled as fear crept in, so it took a while before this activity was completed.

We also had to wait for John who had the runs from his chilli binging.

We hiked further into the canyon where a breathtaking 26m waterfall greeted us. It was my turn to go first. It looked daunting from the top, and Khaan warned us the path was extremely slippery and there would be moments we might be gasping for air as the water trashed our faces.

I began my descent cautiously but slipped once, hitting my elbow against the rocks. I found my footing and continued, but about 5m before the bottom, the rope ran out! I was horrified that Khaan could have miscalculated the rope length.

Ro bellowed, “You’ve got to jump and swim towards me.”

And so, bleeding elbow and all, I dived in and swam. We had a few accidents on this rappel — Kumaran lost his spectacles, Megan hit her head on the rocks and Clarissa sustained cuts. Sumi was unscathed.

Finally, we came to our last rappel, known as the “washing machine”. The bottom of the cliff was not visible, and we had no idea what lurked beneath.

Khaan said, “This is probably the most challenging one although the distance to the bottom is only about 12m. Halfway through your descent, you will see a swirl of water between the boulders — like a washing machine. Make sure you go in between the boulders and let go of the rope once you’re down. You’ll be spinning for a few seconds but the current will eventually bring you out and drift you down where Ro will be waiting.”

This sounded scary, and because of the loud crashing of the water below, Khaan reminded us that we wouldn’t be able to hear anyone. Since Sumi hadn’t gone first, it was her turn.

“Ok, what’s the big deal? I conquered all the rest so this should be easy,” she chirped, putting her safety helmet on.

That’s the spirit, we chorused!

Khaan asked again, “You sure you’ve got my instructions down?”

She gave a thumbs-up and took a few steps off the cliff. Once the “washing machine” came into view, Sumi started to pale.

“I ca . . . caa . . . can’t do this. It’s too difficult. Please pull me up!” Sumi pleaded.

We all offered words of encouragement and Khaan persuaded her to go on.

“It’s not as scary as it looks and there’s no way to come up now,” Khaan continued, turning to wink at me.

“Do you want me to repeat the instructions one more time?”

“No, really, it’s too scary. I really cannot do this,” begged the poor girl, tears welling up. “I’m not even a good swimmer.”

Khaan yelled, “Come on Sumi, you can do it! Just take baby steps and everything will be fine.”

We all went silent. She followed the instructions and disappeared below. Seconds passed but no Sumi in sight. A minute passed and still no sign of her. We could see Ro’s eyes frantically scanning the area. I started to panic and my heart beat faster. I had put her through this. What if she couldn’t come out of the whirlpool? How would I tell my uncle and aunt?

Suddenly, we saw a body floating down the river. Ro deftly jumped in and pulled her to safety. Once she got her bearings, Sumi stood up and beat her chest like a crazy woman. Everyone cheered and I heaved a sigh of relief. Indeed, the last rappel wasn’t easy and anxiety kicked in. However, we successfully emerged from the “washing machine”.

“Congratulations! You all did it,” said Khaan. “Now, it’s time to navigate back to the top. It should take about 30 minutes.”

We began our ascent as Kumaran and Khaan took turns to push and pull Sumi along, promising her champagne and caviar at the hotel.

Canyoning here had been a hard day’s work but Dalat’s evergreen forests, lakes and waterfalls combined with the myriad butterflies, birds and squirrels made every moment worthwhile.

Getting there

From Ho Chi Minh City, the easiest way to reach Dalat (308km away) is via plane using Vietnam Airlines or tour buses. Though every bus company will tell you it takes only five hours, the actual journey takes around eight hours and costs RM20.

Canyoning knowledge

Canyoning is an adventure sport that became popular in the 90s. It involves exploring a canyon using a variety of techniques including walking, abseiling, swimming, hiking, scrambling and leaping.

Canyons can be very easy or extremely difficult, though emphasis in the sport is usually on aesthetics and fun, rather than pure difficulty.

However, don’t attempt to go into a canyon with just a buddy and no guide as it can pose a high risk. Pick guides who are intimately familiar with every pool slide and waterfall in a particular canyon.

In Vietnam, adventure travel company Phat Tire Ventures (www.phattireventures.com) comes highly recommended.

Run by Brian and Kim Vierra, the company emphasises safety and many of their guides have been mapping courses for programmes on Discovery channel.

The Melbourne identity

2010-03-05T14:24:00.001+08:00

By S. S. YOGA
Pictures by S. S. YOGA, EUREKA SKYDECK88, MELBOURNE AQUARIUM, TOURISM VICTORIA & A MAZE N THINGS

yoga@thestar.com.my

If you’re looking for a city from which you can enjoy urban, rustic and even wildlife experiences, then say hello to Melbourne.

It was the wee hours of a cold morning when we arrived in Melbourne — we being the Malaysian media group assembled by Tourism Australia for a familiarisation tour of the city and its surrounding areas to publicise the recently introduced Emirates Kuala Lumpur-Melbourne route.

The Eureka Skydeck88 is the highest man-made vantage point in the Southern Hemisphere (inset: The Edge — a glass-cube extension that projects 3m out of the building.

There were just the six of us, plus Tourism Australia public relations manager Amanda Chong and Weber Shandwick consultant Adli Abdul Karim, but lo and behold, our hosts had booked a 50-seater bus to take us around on our four-day tour.

It must be true then what they say about the Aussies: “They think big”. And as I was soon to discover, Melbourne was indeed big on culture and arts, natural wonders, food, sports and thrills of many kinds.

It was still drizzling after we had checked into our hotel, which meant it was a bit chilly.

Many had warned us of Melbourne’s “bipolar” weather, with its Jekyll and Hyde personality which could go from freezing cold to freaking hot in a single day. We were just thankful that the thermometer was not in the 40s like it had been the previous summer.

What’s truly to be treasured is Australia’s unique wildlife, of which we saw quite a bit. After a special walking tour and lunch, we wound up at the Melbourne Aquarium (www.melbourneaquarium.com.au). Our group had split up, with one going off to check out the Muslim communities in the city. They were supposed to meet us here but were running considerably late, so we went ahead.

The towering trees that line the road through the Dandenongs.

Just seeing the delightful and amusing Gentoo and King penguins justified the price of admission into the aquarium but there was considerably more within to thrill, entertain and educate one. There were the stingrays, sharks, jellyfishes and even the oddballs of the Neptunian world.

The aquarium also has some nice interactive displays and a huge 2.2-million-litre Oceanarium. Nothing beats having smiley stingrays swimming overhead. We too left with smiles on our faces thanks to the superb family-themed experience here.

Our final stop for the day was at the fantastic Eureka Skydeck88 (www.eurekaskydeck.com.au). It’s at the 88th level of a fully-residential building and is the highest public vantage point in the southern hemisphere. One gets an amazing bird’s eye view from the 360° observation deck with its floor-to-ceiling glass windows.

An additional thrill here is The Edge — a glass-cube extension that projects 3m out of the building and leaves you with the unnerving sensation of being suspended 300m above ground. If you have only time to do one thing in Melbourne, make sure it is this.

As we were running late, the only proper allocated time for shopping on this tour was shelved, and we rushed straight to dinner. It being a Friday, most shops were open till 9pm. On other days, everything basically shuts down by 6pm.

A gravitydefying illusion at A Maze N Things.

On the second day, we visited the Ballarat Wildlife Park (www.wildlifepark.com.au). It was truly a magical experience to be able to feed the friendly kangaroos and to watch the infamous Tasmanian devils being fed. And the snacking continued with the emus. What was memorable, though, was getting up close with the adorable sleepy koalas.

We checked out of our hotel the next day as we were going to spend the night at the world-famous Phillip Island, 90 minutes by car from the city. But first we made two stops — once at a lavender farm and another at a stonefruit farm (see: Delights galore), followed by lunch. Fully stuffed, we bused off to Phillip Island.

On arrival, we immediately hopped on a cruise (www.wildlifecoastcruises.com.au) to Seal Rocks. The seas can be quite choppy, so those prone to having motion sickness (like moi) should take the pills half an hour before the trip. That evening the sea was rougher than usual so the boat couldn’t get up close to the rocks where 15,000 fur seals frolicked.

That’s right: 15,000! And they certainly made themselves heard and, urm, smelt. Eau de phew, anyone? But it was worth the queasiness to catch this natural spectacle of so many lumbering bodies packed into a relatively tight space.

The true gem of Victoria and Australia, though, is really the Penguin Parade at the Phillip Island Nature Park (www.penguins.org.au). People come here to watch the Little Penguins, who are principally monogamous, return for the night after a whole day out trawling for food. Before that happens, they can get a run-through of this aquatic bird’s life at an interactive display set up nearby.

Three King penguins and a solitary Gentoo Penguin.

Interestingly enough, some of the displays allow you to peek into the actual burrows of the penguins. Some of them were still there as it was moulting season and they couldn’t go out to fish. The island is dotted all over with their burrows.

Vehicle owners are warned to check that no penguins have crawled underneath their vehicles before starting their engine. (We unfortunately came across a dead penguin on the road when we drove back to our apartments.)

We were lucky to be given spots at the Penguin Plus viewing platform. Penguin landing was only expected at 6.45pm, but the birds had other plans, and a slew of them arrived early. There’s nothing quite like seeing these little creatures waddling their way at varying speeds up to their burrows.

We decided to walk by the side of the fenced-up pathways to get an even closer look at the creatures. We spotted some baby penguins mewing (yes, they mew like kittens) for their parents who had not arrived. And even more heartwarming was the spectacle of a family of penguins reunited.

It’s pretty certain you will go “Aww!” at this sight.

The next day, we took a break from nature so as to be amazed by the ingenuity of mankind. At A Maze N Things (www.amazenthings.com.au), clever optical illusions and other neat tricks, many of them interactive, made for a magical experience. But there was no magic or trickery involved in the 6.5m Look Out! Slide, which entails a hairy free-fall and a steep slide.

You literally hear and smell the thousands of seals at Seals Rock before you see them.

All of us had a go at it, and it was so thrilling, that oops, I did it again,!

After that, it was back to visiting the wildlife — this time, the koalas, right opposite at the Koala Conservation Centre (run by the same non-profit organisation that oversees the penguin centre). We saw the sleepy-heads (they are nocturnal creatures) resting in the treetops. It’s good to see them being protected as there are only about 40 koalas left on Phillip Island.

As our trip came to an end and we sat in the cosy Emirates Lounge to await our flight back, I concluded that this had been among my most memorable trips.

Given the time and opportunity, I would love to visit again; this time maybe to sit at a splendid Melburnian café sipping coffee. Or to make the most of some of the best shopping in Australia. Or to check out the numerous other attractions on offer.

Yes, with so much to do here, it all boils down to how much time you have.

Villa luxurious

2010-02-25T01:07:00.001+08:00

By PHILIP GAME

A boom in luxury self-contained villa accommodation is leading Bali’s resurgence.

Villa developments march across the rice paddies of Seminyak, as self-contained villa accommodation leads Bali’s renaissance as a top-end destination.

Villas provide privacy, exclusivity and independence for those who know their way around Bali. Couples and groups can, by sharing, luxuriate in spa treatments, butler service or car and driver on call.

The main pool at The Patra Bali Resort and Villas.

As discerning visitors forsake the all-night party scene, districts like Seminyak, well-supplied with shopping and fine dining, come to the fore; welcome surprises await further around the coast or inland at Ubud.

“Bali’s lifestyle these days is excellent, I rate it seven out of 10,” declares one expatriate hotelier.

He decries the alarmist travel warnings issued by foreign governments, pointing to the much-enhanced security measures encountered wherever foreigners gather — and to the economic vulnerability of innocent Balinese.

Villa properties range from simple, moderately priced bungalows, to sybaritic luxury. Most feature private garden compounds and their own swimming pool or plunge pool; most have fully equipped kitchens (staff on hand can shop and prepare meals).

Here’s what we found on a recent round-up of some villa properties:

The Elysian opened late 2005, near the Oberoi and Ku De Ta Restaurant in Seminyak: a secluded yet prestigious location, optimising a relatively compact site.

Twenty-six villas cluster around the common areas, which include a sun deck, 25-metre lap pool, library with Internet access and the 48-seat Rush Bamboo Restaurant, open all day. There’s a small meeting room and a gym is to follow.

Ambitious young French-born Benoit Amado, manager at the time of my visit, saw his target market as the 25- to 45-year-old sophisticated traveller who appreciates “affordable luxury” as a smaller-scale, more intimate alternative to the Aman properties or The Legian.

“We’ll give you an iPod, if you didn’t bring your own,” he declared, so the villas are fitted accordingly with docking stations.

Puri Dajuma Cottages in Pekutatan, Bali. — PHILIP GAME, THE PATRA BALI RESORT AND VILLAS & VILLA DE DAUN

The Elysian preserves a sense of privacy, of something different waiting to be discovered around every corner.

Verdict: top marks for style and exclusivity.

Villa de daun is a compact garden retreat in the heart of Kuta, tucked away behind the main shopping strip (although the beach is minutes away).

By anyone’s standards, the units, especially the premium Deluxe villas, are enticing, although some upgrading is now planned in the standard-grade Superior villas. Deluxe villas boast an attractive small library or study and a more spacious dining area.

Verdict: a stylish retreat for shopaholics.

The Patra Bali Resort and Villas could not be more different: a sprawling beachfront estate at Tuban, within sight and sound of the airport, where the former Pertamina Cottages once stood. This is now the newest and smartest complex in a district better known for big name hotel-style properties, asserts I Nyoman Sadia, director of sales, who also lays claim to Bali’s best-equipped kids’ club.

From an imposing three-storey lobby adorned with five-metre high murals, electric jeeps shuttle out to the beachfront villas, which enjoy exclusive use of their own pool.

Royal Villa units are sumptuous, although the décor is classic rather than cutting edge and some may find the abundance of varnished timber a little oppressive.

Club Suite villas, at the economy end of the scale, remain appealing.

Verdict: especially family friendly with its kids’ club, spacious lawns and beachfront setting.

Now for something totally different. Puri Dajuma Cottages is a group of comfortable but unpretentious villas grouped above a remote black sand beach in western Bali.

After a long drive dodging trucks and motorcycles on the main road from Denpasar to the Java ferry, then a detour down a narrow track, Puri Dajuma comes as a welcome surprise.

Gaily-painted prahu (outriggers) motor in to shore each morning; the fishermen and their families are as intrigued to meet you as you will be to meet them.

Around the bay awaits the renowned Medewi surf beach.

At US$85-US$95 (RM288-RM322), depending on sea views, rates are less than half those charged by fancier properties, but with Swiss-French management, the restaurant menu reveals a whiff of Gallic inspiration.

Verdict: a delightfully different slant on the Bali you thought you knew, and an ideal stopover on the overland journey to Java.

Popular with the girls

The Villas, Kuta’s first villa development, was the inspiration of Australian painter Jim Elliott around 15 years ago. The property is now as well known for its Prana and Chill Spas as for its accommodation.

The ambience is Marrakech-meets-maharaja, an orientalist’s daydream of spires, minarets, elephant gods and other exotica: no minimalism here. It’s not hard to see why Prana is especially popular with hen parties.

Each three-bedroom villa is arranged around a central pool, the living areas are open-plan and the entire property is tastefully decorated with Asian art.

Verdict: dream on, princess . . .

The writer travelled as a guest of all the properties mentioned.

FYI

Rates per villa typically range from US$220-US$300 (RM746-RM1,017) with 21% tax and service charges additional. A minimum of four, five or seven nights’ stay is required at many properties. Strict cancellation or loss of deposit policies may apply.

Oasis of fun

2010-02-24T00:04:00.000+08:00

IF Dubai is a bustling metropolis that entices the world to the United Arab Emirates, then Abu Dhabi is its earthy, culturally vibrant sister city.

It may sound like an exaggeration, but a media familiarisation tour late last year by AirAsia X to Abu Dhabi, the country’s capital and seat of government, supported this fact.

The city by the Gulf coast is not only scenic but it’s a potpourri of shopping and awe-inspiring mega projects. It is home to a peculiar Falcon Hospital with thrills and spills of a nearby desert to boot.

AirAsia X chose Abu Dhabi as its first Middle East destination due to its potential in tourism but has temporarily suspended its flights to Abu Dhabi beginning Feb 21 in a major seat refurbishment exercise to better meet the demands of passengers for this flight sector. AirAsia X will resume its flights to Abu Dhabi at a date to be announced later.

The long haul carrier says the city remains an ideal gateway for its expansion to the region.

A look into the history behind Abu Dhabi (which means father of the gazelle in Arabic), may shed some light into the AirAsia’s choice for this best kept secret.

History And Business

As with most cities in the UAE, Abu Dhabi’s story began a little more than three decades ago. The city was a coastal village thriving on fishing and trade.

The leader of the Abu Dhabi emirate, Sheikh Zayed Al Nahyan had united the clan leaders in all seven territories and laid the foundation for the UAE and its capital Abu Dhabi. (The UAE is divided into seven territories referred to as emirates).

The achievement of Abu Dhabi emirate during this formative period was nothing short of staggering. The emirate has become one of the richest in terms of Gross Domestic Product and per capita income. It is also the biggest emirate, covering 67,340 square km or nearly 87 per cent of the UAE.

Business opportunities abound in this city, but tourism is set to make it even livelier. The city may soon give nearby Dubai a run for its money, what with up-coming projects such as the Ferrari World theme park and UAE versions of the Louvre and Guggenheim museums.

But Abu Dhabi’s existing charm is no less exciting as it also offers some spectacular adventure activities.

Dune Bashing

As with any trip to the Middle East, the sight of vast desert is a norm and Abu Dhabi has Rub al Khali, a popular spot for the dune bashing sport.

Tourists ride on four-wheel drive vehicles that move up and down the dunes in extreme sport fashion. The faint of heart and elderly may want to avoid it, but a roller-coaster ride it is not.

It is a fun way to experience the rugged desert. There are dunes as high as three-storey buildings. One may be driving downwards, sideways even, at angles of up to 45 degrees.

But as the group’s tour 4WD driver Mohamad Sharaf says, it is normal for tourists to throw up.

The 36-year-old Egyptian was a military driver for two years before joining Arabian Adventures (www.arabian-adventures.com) as a dune-bashing driver.

“Of course passengers throw up, but that is normal. Dune bashing is a hit with European tourists during summer.”

The package cost for Arabian Adventure’s desert safari ranges between RM285 and RM300 per person and includes the gravity defying dune-bashing, a visit to a camel farm, sunset view in the desert and a typical Arabian dinner with shisha in a bedouin camp.

Hospital For Feathered Kind

After the desert adventure, head on to the Abu Dhabi Falcon Hospital which has treated and accommodated about 35,000 animals since it was set up a decade ago.

The falcon is regarded as the national bird of UAE and the birds have their own passports for travelling in airplanes. They may be the only animals that are allowed to ride alongside their owners in the passenger cabin.

Falcon Hospital director Margit Gabriele Muller says services for boarding, grooming and medical treatment are available for these majestic birds.

She says the hospital began as a treatment facility for falcons but soon word got around about the work that was being done there.

“People started calling the hospital to ask for guided tours. Through the years, the hospital developed its own tourism programme.”

A visit includes lunch, a tour of the facility and explanation from the staff. If you are lucky, you may get a chance to be guided by Muller herself

Falcons are known to be one of the fastest-moving creatures in the animal kingdom. Certain types of falcons have been known to dive at speeds of 320km per hour.

Facilities in the hospital include operation theatre, intensive critical care unit, ophthalmology unit, in-patient rooms for accommodation, free-flight cages for moulting or shedding of feathers.

Beach In The City

After visiting the essential tourist sites, chill out the rest of trip in Abu Dhabi’s city centre. A recommended first stop is the scenic Corniche beach front area which commands a fantastic view of the city’s skyline and, more importantly, it is close to one of the hippest shopping malls in the city.

The best view is from the Cultural Village, which features permanent exhibits, fine dining restaurant and souvenir shops. But the Cultural Village’s star attraction is the white sandy beach and view of the city.

Visitors may get to see people riding on jet skis, while enjoying the warm weather. This idyllic setting may make tourists forget that they are in a country made up mostly of desert.

Shopping Therapy

After soaking up sun and sea, try the nearby Marina Shopping Mall for some serious rest and relaxation. This is a bigger version of Kuala Lumpur’s MidValley Megamall with its high-end boutiques, medium-range stores and numerous cafes and restaurants.

Shopping is quite a delight in Abu Dhabi and the summer sale season is a must for bargain hunters of quality goods.

The Marina Mall is home to Ikea, Carrefour and other household names such as Zara, Bvlgari, Gucci, Coach and Fendi. Besides shopping, it is a great place for watching the trendy Abu Dhabi folk.

Besides Marina Mall, Abu Dhabi Mall on 10th Street is a well-stocked medium- to high-end shopping centre.

Those looking for Arab perfumes or souvenirs may want to try Madinat Zayed Shopping & Gold Center. The areas around this mall have many shops selling clothes and essentials for Abu Dhabi’s working class.

Besides shopping, many tourists from Western countries like to stop at the Sheikh Zayed Bin Sultan Al Nahyan with its record-breaking features.

The imposing white structure is home to the world’s largest handmade carpet, measuring 5,627sq m. Twenty-four carat gold is used in its interior and on crescents topping the domes.

Beyond The City

Besides a city tour, there are packages for the countryside outside of Abu Dhabi. An interesting option is the royal vacation town of Al Ain, which is more than an hour’s drive east of Abu Dhabi.

This picturesque town is home to Al Jahili Fort, a structure of orange bricks built in the traditional bedouin fashion. The fort was built in 1891 but was refurbished into a mini-museum two years ago.

There are interactive exhibits highlighting the history of UAE and its founding fathers. A section is devoted to a famous explorer and traveller, Wilfred Thesiger, who was known to locals as Mubarak bin London. Thesiger remained close with the UAE royal family and was revered after he crossed the Empty Quarter desert twice in the 1940s.

Another must-visit in Al Ain is the Sheikh Zayed Palace Museum, which was home to the late UAE former president until it opened its doors to the public in 2001.

Visitors would not find typical museum exhibits here. Instead, they’d see an honest depiction of how a typical Emirati family lived.

Sheikh Zayed, who was known for his humble nature, had decreed the royal palace and royal residential areas should reflect his country’s culture, prior to its dramatic development during the post-oil years. The museum recreates spartan-looking bedrooms, guest rooms, school room and “majlis” (meeting room).

The best picture opportunity in Al Ain is along the road to one of the UAE’s highest peak, Jebel Hafeet. The peak rises 1,240m and the road leading up to it extends almost 12km with three lanes. The uphill road was called the greatest driving road in the world by motoring website Edmunds.com

The Mecure Grand Jebel Hafeet hotel, which sits near the mountain top, has a good lunch buffet that is worth a try. Visitors may take snapshots in a lay-by area on the way downhill.

Coming Attractions

Many existing attractions make Abu Dhabi a delight to visit and yet there’s more to come. In mid-2010, the first Ferrari World Theme Park will open its doors at Yas Island, Abu Dhabi. This mega indoor theme park has the world’s fastest roller-coaster ride, which simulates the speed of an actual F1 car at 200km per hour.

Other coming attractions are the Guggenheim Abu Dhabi Museum (opening 2013), and UAE version of the Louvre museum. These projects are part of the cultural district in the Saadiyat Island project.

How To Get There

Prior to the flight suspension, AirAsia X flies five times weekly to Abu Dhabi from the Kuala Lumpur Low Cost Carrier Terminal. Tune in to the latest news about the resumption of flights to Abu Dhabi. When it resumes, expect low promotional fares with advanced booking. Its introductory fares last year ranged from RM324 to RM474.

Tour packages to Abu Dhabi will also be available at goholiday website (http://goholiday.airasia.com).

Pictures by AHMAD FAIRUZ OTHMAN and

AIRASIA X

Diving in Malaysia

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Malaysia has been the home for local divers for many years however only in the last 20 years or so, since the discovery of Sipadan island off the east coast of Sabah, it has become a top Asian diving destination. Malaysia offers a vast array of scuba diving locations ranging from vertical walls to fringing coral atolls to wreck dives and even macro and muck diving.

Malaysia is over 800km long, has a mountainous centre with spectacular limestone outcrops, a long neck and tapering tail. East Malaysia comprises the Borneo states of Sarawak and Sabah. In recent years, it is this wonderful environment that is driving the Malaysian tourism industry. To the divers, it is the idyllic pearl-like drops of coral islands in the South China Sea off Sabah & Sarawak that are the great attractions. The diving at Sipadan, Kapalai and Layang Layang conjure thoughts of swirling schools of barracuda and jacks to divers the world over. However the Malay peninsular has plenty of its own underwater gems to explore including Redang and Tioman.

Malaysia at a glance

Religion: Predominantly Muslim

Population: 23.5 million

Currency: Ringgit (3.8 = 1$USD approx)

Geography: 329,000 sqm
Coastline: 4,675km

Language: Malay

Travel: Major airport in Kuala Lumpur with daily global flights and two smaller airports on Sabah with daily connections.

Diving: Viz can be upto 50 metres, depths to over 2km. Marine life includes most common indo-pacific species.

Other dive sites in Thailand

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We have covered most of the dive areas of Thailand however there are some other excellent spots that fall into this category. Further north of The Similans lie a number of world class dive sites in Thai waters. Namely Koh Bon, Koh Surin, Koh Tachai and Richelieu Rock. Great visibility and big pelagics can be found here. Further south of Phuket are a couple of quieter and less developed dive sites that are also worthy of a mention. If you know of any we have missed out please let us know and we will add them.

Other Dive Sites at a glance

Accommodation : Mostly Liveaboard

Highlights : Great visibility, big pelagics, remote loactions

Koh Lipe

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Koh Lipe is the only inhabited island in the Butang group in the Tarutao National Park, deep south Thailand. The protected archipelago is made up of at least 45 islands, Koh Tarutao being the largest and the Butang group lies west of this. Diving here is realtively unspoilt and can be rewarding with at least seven discovered submerged pinnacles and a multitude of other dive spots in the area including 8 Mile Rock ; a pinnacle covered in soft coral dropping to nearly 50 metres deep and Hin Chabang with its wonderful soft coral. All regular Andaman marine inhabitants can be found here including those big pelagics that we all yearn to see.

Depths: 10 - 45m

Viz: 10 - 30m

Currents: Can be strong

Getting there : Boat 2 hours

Best months: Nov / Apr

Average cost of a dive: $28

Khao Lak

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Khao Lak is located on the Andaman coast around 100km north of Phuket and is widely considered to be the gateway to the Similans. The dive operators in Khao Lak offer speedboat trips and can get you to the Similans in around an hour and twenty minutes. Diving from here is a little more expensive here but it does offer the convenience of getting to and from premier dive sites without the hassle and extra expense of booking a liveaboard trip.

The town itself has largely recovered from the 2004 tsunami and is a pleasent place for a relaxing holiday with several good beaches, plenty of resorts and a number of fine restaurants.

Thailand liveaboard trips

We now also offer liveaboard trips to the Andaman from Thailand, visit the Similans, and world class dive sites of Richelieu Rock, Koh Bon and Koh Tachai from the luxury of a liveaboard, find out more here: Thailand Liveaboards

Khao Lak at a glance

Accommodation : Khao Lak Hotels

Highlights : Speedboat access to Similans and northern dive sites

Average cost of a dive : $40

Dive Sites : 20+

Dive Operators : 8

Getting there : Road from Phuket 1 hour

Off Season : Jul / Sept

Koh Phi Phi

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The tiny island of Koh Phi Phi has been a backpacker destination for years, not surprising then that it is also a great diving destination. Being centrally located it serves as a great base to explore local dive sites and those further afield at Phuket, Krabi and Lanta. With crystal clear waters, fringing reefs, local islands and a laid back beach atmosphere Koh Phi Phi truly is a paradise. We are unsure about the current infrastructure on the island since the December 26th tsunami hit. Local authorities are doing all they can to rebuild the island to its former beauty.

Koh Phi Phi at a glance

Accommodation : Koh Phi Phi Hotels

Highlights : Crystal clear waters and good accessibility to dive sites

Average cost of a dive : $23

Dive Sites : 15+

Dive Operators : 10+

Getting there : Boat 2 hours

Off Season : Aug / Oct

Phuket

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Phuket can be considered the dive hub of the Andaman. With countless number of dive operators offering daytrips and liveaboards to pretty much every dive spot in the area and beyond you really are spoilt for choice. With an international airport, more accommodation than you can shake a stick at and nightlife that never stops Phuket is the place to be. Choose between the local dive sites, further afield to Koh Phi Phi, a liveaboard to the Similans, or even the Mergui Archipelago and Burma Banks, its all available from Phuket.

Phuket at a glance

Accommodation : Phuket Hotels

Highlights : Access to nearly every dive site in the Andaman, International tourist destination

Average cost of a dive : $30

Dive Sites : 20+

Dive Operators : 30+

Getting there : International Airport

Off Season : June / Oct

Koh Lanta

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Although Koh Lanta is still in Krabi province it is far enough away to have its own section. Some of the best dive sites in Thailand can be reached from Lanta. With something for everyone from the outer rocks and islands for the experienced diver to calm gentle fringing reefs for the avid snorkeller. The island also offers pristine white sand beaches, lush tropical rainforrests and cascading waterfalls.

Koh Lanta at a glance

Accommodation : Koh Lanta Hotels

Highlights : World class dive sites, relaxed beach resort island

Average cost of a dive : $33

Dive Sites : 15+

Dive Operators : 10+

Getting there : Road from Phuket Airport 4 hours.

Off Season : June / Oct

Krabi

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Krabi offers more than just spectacular scenery above the surface, go below and you'll find an abundance of marine life awaits. Although some dive sites have suffered recent tsunami damage the deeper waters remain relatively intact. Krabi can serve as a good base to explore the smaller local offshore islands or go further afield to Koh Phi Phi. Most of the local dive operators are located at Ao Nang, a coastal resort around 30 minutes drive from Krabi town.

Krabi at a glance

Geography : Southern provincial capital

Accommodation : Krabi Hotels

Highlights : Striking landscape, accessibility to further islands

Average cost of a dive : $22

Dive Sites : 5+

Dive Operators : 10+

Getting there : Road from Phuket Airport 2 hours.

Off Season : July / Sept

Koh Samui

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Koh Samui doesn't have the quality of diving found further north at Koh Tao but it does provide a base to get there or explore some of the more unspoilt dive sites in the area. With trips out to the National Park or the liveaboard option to the remote southern islands Samui is the island or choice. Accommodation ranges from beach bungalow to five star resort.

Koh Samui at a glance

Geography : 247sqkm island

Accommodation : Koh Samui Hotels

Highlights : Marine National Park, Liveaboard trips.

Average cost of a dive : $41

Dive Sites : 10+

Dive Operators : 20+

Getting there : Ferry from mainland 90 minutes

Off Season : Nov / Dec

Koh Tao

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Koh Tao is more than 21 square kilometers and is located around 70km east off the coastline between the Thai provinces of Surat Thani and Chumphon. It is easily accessible by boat from Chumphon on the mainland and Koh Pha-ngan to the south. High speed catamaran services ply the waters nowdays making the transfer swift and efficient unlike the overnight slow boat of days gone by. The name means Turtle Island in Thai because in the past the waters surrounding it were rich in hawksbill and green sea turtles, though a lot rarer nowdays they still can be spotted while diving around the island's many dive sites. Over the last ten years or so the tropical beauty and abundant marine life of Koh Tao has increased its popularity and it is now the premier spot in the country for learning to dive.

Koh Tao at a glance

Main town : Mae Haad

Geography : 21sqkm island

Accommodation : Koh Tao Hotels

Highlights : Hub for learning to dive, seasonal whale shark visits

Average cost of a dive : $24

Dive Sites : 20+

Dive Operators : 30+

Getting there : Boat from mainland 2 hours

Off Season : Nov / Dec

Chumphon

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Chumphon province is one of the lesser known diving spots of Thailand. With around 50 islands to choose from there is no limit to what you may find under the surface. With an abundance of marine life, caves and swimthroughs on offer the area can also boast relatively unspoilt diving as it has not been hit by the mass tourism and development that you'll find in Pattaya and Phuket. Although you won't get as good visibility as you can on the Andaman side, if dived at the right time of year, Chumphon can be extremely rewarding both to the novice and experienced diver.

More info on Chumphon can be found here: Chumphon

Chumphon at a glance

Geography : Many coastal islands.

Accommodation : Chumphon Hotels

Highlights : Relatively unspoilt diving, serenity.

Average cost of a dive : $26

Dive Sites : 6+

Dive Operators : 2

Getting there : Road from Bangkok 5 hours.

Off Season : Jun / Sept

The Finnish line

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Further Out by BRIAN CRACKNELL

The writer, on his business travels, searches for something new beyond the tried and tested.

My notions of Finland once tended towards snowy weather, saunas and mobile phones. So when I finally got the chance to travel to Helsinki for a business conference last year, I gladly took it.

First impressions

Finns are said to be stoic, but I was to find that they also have an impish sense of humour. The Helsinki Visitors Guide tells you how the capital sees itself — friendly, trendy, green, relaxed and maritime, “where Eastern and Western cultures meet”. It is very much a cosmopolitan capital, more so than I expected, to be honest. But, unlike many cosmopolitan capitals, compact.

Lakeside calm

When I arrived it was drizzling, but an efficient bus service and genuinely helpful staff at ticket and information desks smoothed my transfer to the downtown zone.

So, after exiting the bus near the main rail station, I ambled to my home for the next three days, the StayAt hotel apartments, a modernised 1912 building in Museokatu near Helsinki Parliament in the Toolo part of the city. Although my temporary home didn’t exactly overlook the Parliament grounds, it was accessible to the station. My conference venue at Helsingfors was just one stop away.

What’s best about Scandinavian cities is that they are very walkable places, and were “green” long before this became fashionable. On a first visit to a city, it’s always revealing to walk around to get a feel of how the streets are laid out and to see slices of local life.

You get to observe the detail in people and buildings that’s missed when you whizz past in a coach or car. And the opportunities to strike up conversations with others more than make up for slightly aching knees.

Helsinki sunset

Helsinki is a historic city offering several worthy sites and sights, while preserving its original cityscape, cleverly intertwining past and present in a sensible but striking way. As the historian E. H. Carr said: “A society without history is like a man without a memory.”

And, although Helsinki is contemporary, its memory is clear.

Work calls

I, like many of us, am a little cynical (all right, very cynical) about conferences, and this one’s tag-line: “Refresh yourself”, was not very inspiring. Like me, you are probably used to the drill of self-important selling, slick literature and “sought-after speakers”. The promise of the website usually fades once we register.

But Helsinki delivered in an understated, authentic way. It is a world-class congress city, not just a trendsetter in design and technology, but also in events.

This congress had a distinct division between practical seminars and those with a more scientific tone.

Coffee and lunch were served at “Market Square” in the middle of an unusually bright and busy exhibition area, recreating the feel of a good old market for food, services and ideas. Genuinely engaging and fun hosts, excellent planning and exciting venues added to the mix.

Social programmes also skilfully supplemented the normal networking, using outstanding locations and quirky entertainment such as boot throwing and a total cello ensemble (with memorably comical renderings of an F1 race as well as an imitation of Kimi Raikonnen) to nurture a night of fun and meeting new people.

Balcony view

I also appreciated the relaxed socialising, circulating and chatting around various music and food corners, as opposed to sitting static and served at a table the whole evening.

Attention was paid to little details; thorough thinking before implementation; no frills, fuss or fanfare. This is how the Finns do things.

Return trip

Work trips are often short and harried, but I definitely would like to return and explore Helsinki at leisure. It is a city of contrasts, calculated to entice. Its history, grand structures, modern amusement centres and ocean all coexist harmoniously and innovatively.

But there is plenty more to explore, such as the Senate Square, the city’s cultural centre, highlighted by its neo-classical architecture. Then there is the real Market Square. I was told that here, along the city’s bay area, the busy street is packed with stalls selling food, souvenirs, fresh produce, paintings and jewellery, and is the centre of marina social activity.

Aleksanterinkatu is the city’s commercial centre, perfect for a late afternoon stroll. Linnanmaki Amusement Park is one of Finland’s most popular theme parks, connected to the Sea Life Centre, a new attraction created to spark marine conservation awareness. Suomenlinna, a World Heritage Site, is a startling sea fortress popular with both tourists and locals, as is Hietaniemi Beach, if you want to get out but stay close to the city.

Although I did not manage the compelling city tour, I did experience the best the city had to offer in small doses. The Welcome Party was at the Helsinki City Hall, located in Helsinki’s neo-classical centre overlooking the Market Square. This building, large for its time, was originally designed as the Hotel Seurahuone in 1833. It contained business and banqueting premises and was refurbished in the early 1920s to become the City Hall.

The Conference’s Gala event was at the renowned Finlandia Hall, located to the north of the capital’s Municipal Museum, on the shores of Toolo Bay. Its imposing concert and convention halls stand near a park with large chessboards and chessmen, as well as the Finnish National Opera House.

A memorable Farewell and Garden Party at the Hilton Kalastajatorppa featured beautiful parkland, too, together with a superb sunset backdrop and very fine views of the truly exhilarating Finnish waterscape.

And my favourite feed — fish — naturally featured strongly on the menu. In particular, the smoked salmon mousse with sea buckthorn syrup, herring relish and apple, and crayfish toast certainly whetted my appetite.

But there was just one mishap — on the last night’s ride back to the hotel on the courtesy coach, I lost my phone (don’t ask how).

Retracing my steps later, searching the coach with the driver’s help, and calling those who had been with me all yielded nothing. Yet all was not lost. When I contacted the congress organisers, I got a matter-of-fact response that my phone was at the hotel and that I would be receiving it in the post, which I duly did within two days.

That’s the kind of people they are. Finnish.

Backstory - Helsinki

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Finland’s capital was founded in 1550. After being under Swedish and Russian control, the Finns gained independence in 1917. Boosted by hosting the 1952 Summer Olympics, Finland joined the EU in 1995 and was a European City of Culture in 2000.

Helsinki has 103 mobile phones per 100 inhabitants. Temperatures range from 18.9°C in summer to minus 7.9°C in winter.

A relaxed coastal city, Helsinki offers many sightseeing tours, excursions and activities, as well as being a major cruise destination and congress venue. Further information at www.hel.fi and www.helsinki.fi

Standing at the southernmost tip

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With monkeys, mudskippers, crustaceans as well as migratory birds and local species, Tanjung Piai National Park is a treasure trove for nature lovers. JOHN TIONG is awed to be enjoying the view from the southernmost tip of the Asian continent

THE wind blowing in from Singapore is cool and refreshing. It is about to rain when we arrive at Tanjung Piai National Park, the southernmost tip of the Asian continent. The national park is located in Serkat, about 90 kms south of Johor Baru in the district of Pontian. At 926 hectares or 10 times the size of Kuala Lumpur Lake Gardens, the park was declared a Ramsar Site on Jan 31, 2003 and gazetted a Johor National Park a year later. More than half of it is covered by mangroves while the rest of it is tidal mudflats.

With attractions that include migratory birds from China, Russia, Japan and Korea as well as local wildlife like silver leaf monkeys, Tanjung Piai and the nearby Kukup Island are popular with holiday makers, especially nature lovers who come for a whole-day tour or camp overnight.

Kukup Island is the largest mangrove island in the country and one of the largest uninhabited mangrove islands in the world. Simian Welcome On arrival at the entrance of the administration block of the park, we group near a white pillar where there is an illustration of the piai leaf, for which Tanjung Piai is named after. Piai is a tropical fern that grows in abundance here and it is said that crocodiles like to rest among these ferns.

At the ticketing counter, we are excited to see some monkeys. A few adult monkeys have climbed onto the verandah, up the wooden poles to the roof. We quickly snap some pictures of them.

From here, we walk along a wooden platform which winds through the park. This gives us a clear view of the mangrove forest and its ecosystem at close range. The platform leads to the southernmost tip of Tanjung Piai, an open, cemented enclave that overlooks the sea, guarded by railings.

We are eager to get a snapshot of the huge colourful globe where Peninsular Malaysia and Tanjung Piai are prominently marked.

The quiet, serene charm – with the sound of lapping waves and fresh cold breeze – is suddenly broken by our riotous laughter and excitement when we find ourselves standing at the southernmost tip of Asia.

Bird Paradise Migratory birds flock to the eastern coastline of Johor, all the way from Muar to Pontian and the Riau Archipelago to escape the harsh northern winter between October and March.

For birdwatchers, their binoculars are trained on birds like whimbrels, plovers, egrets and raptors.

The Malaysian lesser adjutant stork (burung botak), silver leaf monkey, macaw, spoonbilled sandpiper, kingfisher, woodpecker, egret, eagle and kite add more colour to the park as they source for food on the mudflats.

There is so much to see in Tanjung Piai National Park and you won’t see everything listed in the tourism brochure in one visit unless you go into the forest. Spending only an hour at the park, we only managed to see monkeys, mudskippers, little crustaceans, including one with orange claws. I’d have loved to see the horseshoe crab, a favourite of mine.

There are many species of mangrove. According to park manager Harban Singh, there are as many as 20 but only an expert will be able tell the difference between them.

Rubbish, Rubbish As we walk through the park, I am saddened to see evidence of uncaring visitors in the form of plastic bottles, rotten ropes, straws and styrofoam boxes strewn everywhere. I even see a lorry wheel stuck between the roots of the mangrove plants. This probably landed here after it was carried by tidal waves from perhaps neighbouring Singapore or our own backyard.

Even to our inexperienced eyes, the mangrove swamp looks unhealthy. The forest looks quite small and weather beaten. The trees seem to be desperately clinging on to life on the mudflats, as tidal waves which are common here, cause untold damage.

Writings on wooden boards everywhere, like “Those who have conquered their mind have conquered the world” and “Mangroves are the seeds of many cultures” give rise to the hope for conservation.

How To Get There There is no direct bus service to the park. There is a taxi service from the Pontian bus station. However, make sure you make pre-arrangements with the taxi driver for your return trip. Those driving from the north via the North-South Expressway, can take the Simpang Rengam exit to get on to the Benut-Pontian-Kukup highway. Once near Kukup, follow the signboards leading to Tanjung Piai.

Entrance fee: Tickets are priced at RM3 for Malaysians and RM5 for foreign visitors. All visitors get a Certificate Of Achievement from the park management.

Traditional Chinese temples

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On the first day of the Lunar New Year, thousands of devotees throng the many temples around the country to pray for good health, wealth and longevity. But worshipping the deities aside, Chinese temples, with their ornate architecture and air of mysticism, make interesting places to do a spot of sight-seeing, writes ELIZABETH LEONG

WITH Chinese New Year just days away, most Chinese folks are making plans to visit a temple to usher in the Year of the Tiger. For some, the decision is easy. They will head for their neighbourhood temple or one that they have been frequenting in the past.

They will be praying for “longevity, prosperity and fortune” amidst white, spiralling smoke from joss sticks and smouldering fragrant incense.

But even if you’re a non-worshipper, the festive season is as good a time as any to do a little sightseeing at the temples as most of these places of worship will be decked with colourful lanterns, flowers and red banners with auspicious couplets.

Visitors can also observe the architecture of Chinese temples but first, a primer on its basics for better appreciation. For a start, symbolism plays an important role in the temples.

Red dominates as the choice of colour as it suggests prosperity and joy. The presence of dragons, phoenixes, tortoises and lions is also significant as such animals represent strength, justice and power.

Frequently, the swastika is prominently displayed, as the Chinese word for swastika is homonymous with “ten thousand”. In Buddhism, the symbol signifies auspiciousness and good fortune. (After World War II, the left-facing swastika was used in many newer temples as distinct from the right-facing swastika that branded Nazism.)

In terms of layout, a temple is always rectangular, and faces south in accordance with feng shui principles. A wall usually surrounds the structure, and the gates are guarded by statues of warrior deities or mythical animals to fend off evil spirits. In the courtyard stands a pagoda-like structure that serves as a furnace for the burning of paper offerings. Bigger temples have more than one courtyard.

There are variations in architectural elements between Hokkien, Cantonese, Teochew and Hakka temples. A saddle-shaped roof is usually Hokkien, while a straight horizontal roof is typically Cantonese. The Hakka roof is similar to the Hokkien but has less adornment. The Teochew roof is less steep as compared to the Hokkien counterpart. Cantonese temples frequently favour square pillars instead of round. However, these elements have been diluted in newer temples due to cost of materials and construction.

Certain features are common to all Chinese temples. The chief deity is always installed in the main hall. Lesser deities are placed in the side halls. The main altar is often intricately carved and decorated with gold gilded characters. Interior decoration consists of wall paintings, wood carvings, carved stone pillars and ceramics.

Now, let’s go on a tour of some Chinese temples in the Klang Valley.

Fu Guang Shan Dong Zen Buddhist Centre

My top recommendation is the Fu Guang Shan Dong Zen Buddhist Centre in Jenjarom, 40kms from Kuala Lumpur that has its roots in Taiwan.

The temple consists of a main building with a shrine containing a relic of Lord Buddha.

Socks have to be worn to enter this area. For visitors, the main attraction lies in the landscaped garden with rows of Bodhisattva statues, neatly trimmed bushes, exotic bonsai, a well-stocked koi pond and gurgling fountains.

Every Chinese New Year, the temple is decorated with a different theme, but without doubt, you can expect to be drowned in a sea of dazzling lanterns with kaleidoscopic colours.

The temple is located on Jalan Sungai Buaya but for outstation visitors, it’s easier to ask the locals for the direction to the police station which is situated near the temple.

In recent years, Fu Guang Shan in this sleepy hollow has even upstaged the more well-known Thean Hou Temple in Kuala Lumpur in terms of visitor arrivals.

Thean Hou Temple

Next on my list is Thean Hou Temple, perched on Robson Hill and overlooking Jalan Syed Putra. Making up for the lack of floral and water attractions in its grounds, Thean Hou offers visitors stunning views of Kuala Lumpur’s skyscrapers.

After ascending the slope to the temple grounds, you will see the 12 animal statues of Chinese astrology and the Goddess Guan Yin as well as colourful dragons and other mythical animals sitting on the eaves of roofs.

Facilities are aplenty such as stores selling religious paraphernalia and Chinese macramè, a vegetarian canteen and a marriage registration office.

Climb up to the main shrine on the second floor via a side staircase to reach the main prayer hall housing Thean Hou or Goddess of the Sea.

To find out what the new year has in store for them, devotees use the kau chim (fortune-telling) sticks in the middle of the hall. At the back of the temple, tortoises fight for personal space in a small pond.

A side garden displays a small statue of Goddess Guan Yin holding a vase. Kneel on a platform and a mechanism triggers water to flow from the vase.

Dharma Realm Guan Yin Sagely Monastery

A Buddhist temple tucked in Kuala Lumpur city centre is the Dharma Realm Guan Yin Sagely Monastery in Jalan Ampang.

The vegetarian restaurant here is worth a trip to the temple as it has received good reviews in food blogs. The plaster glass ceiling jazzed up with symmetrical floral motifs, calm spaces, purple-coloured lotus pond, potted bonsai and giant gilded statues that conjure a serene contemplative mood ideal for meditation. The shrine is dedicated to Guan Yin, the Buddhist Goddess of Compassion.

As there is limited parking space in the temple area, visitors may park at the Corus Hotel across the road and walk over via an overhead pedestrian bridge.

Sin Sze Si Ya Temple

Worshippers seeking history and legends will appreciate the ambience and setting of Sin Sze Si Ya Temple at Jalan Tun H.S. Lee in Kuala Lumpur.

An unassuming structure tucked between old shophouses, it was founded by Kapitan Yap Ah Loy in 1864 to honour Kapitan Shin Kap of Sungai Ujung (now Seremban). According to popular belief, when Kapitan Ship Yap was killed in a battle in 1859, white blood gushed out from him. Later, he appeared in Yap Ah Loy’s dream, advising him to seek his fortune in Kuala Lumpur.

Thereafter, when Yap Ah Loy was embroiled in the Kuala Lumpur Civil War (1870-1873), Shin Yap again gave him invaluable advice by appearing in his dreams several times. When he emerged victorious in the war, Yap Ah Loy also installed an effigy of his general, Chong Piang, in the prayer hall. A statue of Yap Ah Loy was also erected in the temple when he died in 1844 at the age of 44.

Every year, remembrance ceremonies for Shin Kap, Chong Piang and Yap Ah Loy are held on the 15th day of the third lunar month.

The temple is built at an odd angle in a narrow alley but its position was decided after consultation with a Taoist deity through a medium, and was considered auspicious.

Chan She Shu Yuen Association Building

Though not a temple, Chan She Shu Yuen Association is an institution in KL’s Jalan Petaling and attracts the older generations and tourists. Built in 1897, it showcases hundreds of clay terracotta figurines on its wall-ledges and eaves of its roofs.

The gable walls at the end of the main hall roof and the ends of the side halls symbolise the separation of the spiritual and mortal world. They are built in a wavy pattern.

Two ferocious-looking stone lions are stationed at the entrance. A corner inside the temple retails clay teapots plus an interesting selection of Chinese tea such as oolong, white, green, black, scented and others.

The association’s building is only five minutes’ walk from the Jalan Maharajalela KLM monorail station.

Guan Yin Temple

Take a short walk from the Chan She Shu Yuen Association building and climb up a stairway up a hillock to reach the Guan Yin Temple, facing the monorail station.

Small and compact, the temple is simple but has an air of mysticism with its garish colours and weeping willows.

Kwan Ti Temple

In the same league as the Chan She Shu Yuen Association is the Kwan Ti Temple housed in the premises of the Kwong Siew Association at Jalan Tun H.S. Lee.

Evil spirits are frightened away by two stone lions at the entrance, while a fish atop the arched gateway signifies abundance.

The temple was erected in 1888 to honour the Taoist God of War, Kwan Ti. Of all the temples described here, this is a favourite haunt of beggars during Chinese New Year.

Breaker Reef

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About the Dive Site
This area is also known as Shek Ngau Chau. The site consists of a large cluster of rocks near the middle of Mirs Bay. Some of the reef dries at low tide adding to the diversity of marine life that can be found there. It is one of the best dive sites in Hong Kong if you like coral and a large variety of sea life. Large fish frequent this area, including sharks. Nudibranchs and featherstars are common. The normal dive practice is to swim along the long deep gullies that make up the reef.

An easterly wind usually makes this site difficult to dive and visibility deteriorates rapidly.

Hazards & Warnings
The normal warnings for diving in Hong Kong apply to this area.

This area is fairly isolated so special consideration needs to be given to weather conditions.

Sections of the reef can have a lot of line and net fishermen trying their luck if the weather is good.

There is a lot of old lines and nets in this area so care needs to be taken to avoid entanglement.

This area is prone to large swells that may be larger than the water movement visible from the surface.

There have been numerous reports of reasonable sized sharks being sighted in this area. Normal shark precautions should always be applied when diving in this area.

The area is prone to quick weather changes, so it is important that some sort of diver recall procedure is agreed on before starting dives here.

A diver marker and/or emergency diver "safety sausage" is necessary since tidal flow may separate divers from boats.

Getting to Breaker Reef
You need a large private boat to reach this dive site. The closest convenient pier is either at Hebe Haven (Pak Sha Wan) or Sai Kung.

It is important to understand that this area is very exposed. Any easterly wind will normally stir up this area making it rough for boats to get there and even worse for divers trying to enjoy the area.

This area is considered very remote and close to the Hong Kong/Chinese border/territorial waters.

Depths: 10 - 20m

Viz: 1 - 10m

Currents: Variable

Getting there : Private boat

Average cost of a dive: $20USD

Off season: none

Aberdeen

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Aberdeen's strait (between Ap Lei Chau and Hong Kong Island)

About the Dive Site
This site involves waters between 8-18 meters and is extremely varied. The strait hugs the Hong Kong Island landmass and is defined by the Ap Lei Chau island. At the Western end of the strait you what amounts to a major shipping lane and a heavily trafficked sea lane.

The site varies simply because there is a decent amount of area to drop anchor and dive; dependant on diver experience and equipment available. The underwater topography here offers multiple plateau's that offer decent dive locations at varying depths.

To locate and successfully navigate dive sites in this area of Hong Kong it is recommended that intermediate to advanced divers equipped with underwater diagnostic equipment to gauge and define the underwater environment prior to diving.

That being said, the dive sites here can offer diverse and sometimes hard to find aquatic life. Minimal hard corals and minor fish schools can be found in warmer months.

Sadly parts of this strait are somewhat polluted to varying levels. You will not find many fishing nets or other such hazards, but residual long term pollution is obvious. By the same token; how often do you have the opportunity to get an underwater photo of a diver on an upright, intact porcelain toilet?

This dive location, though certainly not the premiere dive location in Hong Kong is recommended for intermediate to advanced divers who plan on diving Hong Kong waters. For any diver seeking to understand the varying underwater ecology of Hong Kong, this is essential diving.

Hazards & Warnings
The normal warnings for diving in Hong Kong apply to this area.

This area is subject to tides and current flows coming from as far away as the Kowloon landmass and based on the prevailing winds and tides.

Furthermore, be advised that if you are diving on the Western end of the strait; that you are diving very near a major international shipping lane.

Depths: 10 - 18m

Viz: 2 - 10m

Currents: Variable

Getting there : Harbour boat

Average cost of a dive: $20USD

Off season: none

Diving in Hong Kong

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Hong Kong is slightly different to most of the other dive sites in Asia. The visibility often isn't as good, the water is cooler and there is less to see. That said it doesn't mean that Hong Kong should be overlooked as a dive destination as it still holds a few treats of its own.

There are many factors that influence diving in Hong Kong.

The area is basically sub-tropical. This means that some sort of thermal protection may be required when diving here. In the winter months a semi-dry or dry suit is probably the best type of exposure protection to have. A 3-5mm wet suit should be sufficient to make the diving comfortable during the warmer months.

Hong Kong is surrounded by sea. The approximate sea surface area is 1650 sq km, and dotted with some 200 islands. The rocky reefs and coral comunities of Hong Kong shelter a diverse and exquisite range of fish and marine fauna. Over 300 species of reef fish and 80 species of corals (hard & soft) have so far been recorded.

Underwater visibility in Hong Kong does vary and is subject to prevailing wind and tide conditions. Depths also vary from shallow 5-10m dives, to deep 20-30m dives. There are a variety of artificial reefs and offshore islands to dive on. Small coral communities can also be found along the eastern coastline, which make ideal snorkeling spots.

Most public beaches in Hong Kong have shark nets to protect the swimmers from sharks. Once the sea surface temperature rises to above 23C large sharks start to patrol the local waters. There have been attacks on swimmers and spearfishing divers. Most of these attacks have occured around Clearwater Bay. But shark sightings have been reported all around the SAR. It is a good idea to check on shark sightings before diving in Hong Kong. Several groups of divers here use Shark Pods for protection during the so called shark season. Note that there has been some effort in trying to get permission to dive within the shark nets. So far all private applications have been turned down. If you are a member of the Hong Kong Underwater Association you can apply to dive inside some of the shark nets but even this is discouraged by the beach life-guards.

Hong Kong has several marine animals that need to avoided. The most dangerous include sea snakes (rare), cone shells (common) and blue ring octopus (some). Other animals to try and keep clear of are the lions mane jellyfish, white sea nettle and sea urchans.

Other matters to consider are the weather - sometimes unpredictable, and the tidal currents. The latter consideration required so that you do not finish up in surfacing in Chinese waters and having to explain yourself to the Chinese Water Police or Navy. In addition you should always dive with a 'safety sausage' or surfacing buoy and use it when you are unsure where you are surfacing. Be mindful of currents especially when diving near Hong Kong's busy shipping lanes.

General Information

Most divers in Hong Kong tend to join or associate with one or more of the many diving clubs or associations located here. The two major ones are listed at the bottom of this page.

These groups either have their own boats or arrange them along with limited transportation to and from a pick-up point. It is also normal for them to provide tanks and sometimes weights at a fee. This service normally operates during the whole diving season. Some clubs run diving trips and activities all year round. You really need to contact the club or association to check.

Private car access to the Sai Kung Country Park is by Permit only. Drivers need to go to the Permit Office located inside the Pak Tam Chung Visitors Center next the barrier. All permits must be prearranged and can only be collected during times the visitors center is open (9:00am to 4:30pm, 7 days a week).

There is no cost or fee, but you basically need to know someone that lives inside the park, or rent/own property there yourself to qualify for a permit. These permits are zoned to areas and do not allow you to travel on Water Authority roads around the High Island Reservoir. There are random Police checks done inside the park to ensure permits are in order, these are usually roadblocks and normally late at night.

Moving about on land

Driving in Hong Kong can be an experience in itself. Parking is another problem and, even in remote places, is illegal in all areas except those designated as car parking areas. The traffic police tend to target private cars and will issue multi fixed penalty tickets to all cars illegally parked. This includes vehicles clearly not causing any obstruction or danger to anyone or anything.

If you do not have access to a car or can arrange a lift with another diver then getting to a diving site or pickup point can be difficult. There is a very comprehensive public transport system but this is designed to move people not divers with gear. Taxies are not always that enthusiastic about transporting wet diving bags and diving cylinders. Being polite and looking pathetic has been known to help if the situation looks hopeless. The public buses, well lets say that there is a lot of room for improvement. However, politeness, persistence and a little extra money will usually encourage a minibus driver to allow you to get you and your equipment to and from a diving site.

An alternative to this is to hire a small private van. This is particularly cost effective if there is a small group of divers visiting an area at the same time. You may need someone fluent in Cantonese to help with the arrangements. Some names and contact numbers have been included at the bottom of this page, but this list is no way extensive and some of this information may outdate quickly.

Moving about on the water

Small boats or walla-wallas can be hired from many of the public piers in Hong Kong and from all of the typhoon shelters. These boats vary in size and can hold between four and eight divers comfortably. These boats are normally used by the locals for fishing and are hired by the half and/or whole day. The operators will also ferry divers to nearby dive locations. The normal practice is to see the boat first, ask the price if it is suitable and then bargain. Remember that unless you are doing a shore dive you will have to climb back onto the boat after the dive. Make sure that the freeboard is not too high.

Hong Kong has a network of public ferries (Hong Kong Yau Ma Tei Ferry Company) that ply between most of the major outlying islands. These ferries will take divers with gear but normally make sure that you pay a luggage surcharge. You should arrange to get to the ferry pier at least 15 minutes before the scheduled departure to arrange this. Ferry schedules will be added here shortly, please check back soon.

There is also a network of Kaido ferries that overlap most of the public ferry destinations and many more less popular places. Schedules are fairly fixed and surcharges will normally apply for diving gear and tanks.

If you are going out with a large group or join one of the Hong Kong scuba diving clubs listed below, you will usually go out on a larger chartered boat that the club hires for the day. The price can range from $100-$400 HKD (about $12.50 - $50 USD) per person for the day, so be sure to check the arrangements ahead of time.

Hong Kong at a glance

Religion: Primarily Tao Buddhist, Minority Christian

Population: 7 million

Currency: Dollar (8 = 1$US approx)

Geography: 1,092 sqm
Coastline: 733km

Language: Cantonese and English

Travel: International airport and highly developed transportation system.

Diving: Lower viz and cooler water temperatures, ideal for macro enthusiasts.

Diving in Cambodia

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Cambodia is largely unknown as a scuba diving destination however it can offer some pleasant surprises in its waters. With such a short coastline and one major resort town it stands to reason that all of Cambodia's diving is done from Sihanoukville. There are a number diving areas from inner islands to outer islands, reefs and rocky outcrops. Underwater terrain and marine life is comparable to the Gulf of Thailand but with the distinct advantage of not having previously been dived thousands of times. Local operators are still discovering new dive sites and the waters of Cambodia are true virgin scuba territory.

Cambodia at a glance

Religion: Predominantly Buddhist

Population: 13 million

Currency: Riel (US dollars widely accepted)

Geography: 181,000 sqm
Coastline: 443km

Language: Khmer (little English spoken)

Travel: Major airport at Phnom Penh.

Diving: Uncharted and virgin dive spots, viz and marine life comparable to the Gulf of Thailand.

Anilao : Nasugbu

2010-02-10T10:07:00.000+08:00

Situated a couple of hour's drive south of Manila and slightly north of Anilao is the peaceful town of Nasugbu. Facing the South China Sea, the area has plenty of good diving and bearing in mind its proximity to the capital, is very quiet.

Fortune Island
This privately owned resort a few kms out to sea is the most famous in the area. There are three dives worthy of mention.

Blue Holes has a fantastic array of marine life. Made up of three sink holes which taper to an open cavern, you can expect to find large groupers, sweetlips, parrotfish, angelfish and damselfish in abundance. And that's just the start. The array of corals is exceptional, with gorgonians, barrel sponges and anemones everywhere. You may also be lucky enough to see Hawksbill turtles and several species of pelagic fish.

Years ago, an old freighter went down off the island and it lies in 20m of water. The box sections still remain and they are a photographer's dream. Be careful of the large scorpionfish and lionfish that live here.

Bat Cave is worth a visit to experience a cuttlefish breeding ground. There are actually bats that hang around in this semi-submerged cavern!

Sumo Bank
Situated about an hour by boat from Nasagbu, this dive is certainly worth making. Coral, both soft and hard, is abundant and various species of shark frequent the area. The dive is for the experienced only.

Pink Wall
Diving here is good, although visability can vary. This drop-off, starting at 8m, is festooned with pink corals. The area is teeming with small tropical fish and the occasional turtle.

Fuego Point
This site marks the spot where a galleon sank. Although it is not the best in the area, you will find many small tropical fish. Tuna and shark also patrol the area.

The above is just a snapshot of what Nasugbu has to offer. You will be able to discover many other interesting dives by enquiring locally. The area is definitely worth visiting to get away from the more busy parts in the south of Luzon.

Depth: 5-20m

Viz: up to 30m

Currents: gentle

Getting there : Boat 10 mins - 1 hour

Best months: Nov / May

Marinduque

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With Luzon to the north and Mindoro to the west, this circular island is famous world-wide for its annual Moriones festival in April. The diving here and further afield in the remoter areas of the Sibuyan Sea can be spectacular.

There are wrecks, walls and reefs to suit all tastes and opportunities for photography are excellent. A large percentage of this area is still largely unexplored and to reach the best sites, you will have to arrange dive safaris from either Puerto Galera or Boracay.

Marinduque Island
Directly around the island itself, there are a number of sites worth mentioning. Natanco, to the north, has good walls and drift diving. Corals and gorgonians are abundant. Closeby, is the wreck of a Japanese torpedo boat. It rests in 36-40m of water and a number of features remain intact, including a multi-barrelled gun. This dive is not for beginners.

Off the west coast, is Balthazar with a cave at 20m that is worth exploring, but be careful of the stonefish. Nearby, nightdiving is good. To the south is Elephante Island, a private resort with good walls, coral formations and fish life. Currents can get strong here and depths reach 40m. Conditions for photography are good. To the east, is Torrijos with plenty of canyons and fissures to explore and where the fish life is prolific. You can expect to encounter barracuda, grouper, tuna and shoals of tropical fish.

Maestre de Campo Island
Situated to the southwest of Marinduque, this small island has some good sites, one a wall on the west coast and another the wreck of the MV Mactan, a ferry boat, off the east coast. The wreck is in good condition on a sandy slope that descends to 35m. It is home to a variety of fish, including grouper, barracuda, lionfish and plenty of tropical species. Off the south coast, you will find more interesting Japanese wrecks and the remains of some WW2 planes.

Banton Island
Slightly further southeast, Banton offers some great diving in pristine conditions. On the west coast, you will discover an amazing array of coral and fish life. Large pelagics, including shark and rays can be seen here. Dolphins are also common. You will find a world-class wall on the east side, but as conditions can become unpredictable, it's best to visit this exposed area between February and May. There are other truely spectacular sites around this small island that make it well worth the effort of getting to.

Sibuyan Sea
The outlying areas to the south and east of Marinduque are fairly unexplored, but those lucky and adverturous enough to have ventured there report some tremendous diving. Puerto Galera is the best place from which to organise trips to these frontier areas.

Marinduque at a glance

Accommodation : various

Currents : moderate to strong

Average cost of a dive : n/a

Dive Sites : 25+

Dive Operators : 3+ or in Puerto Galera and Boracay

Getting there : internal flights from Manila to Marinduque or 5hr by road and ferry south of Manila.

Off Season : July-February

Davao

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Considered to be the gateway to the south, Davao province is located at the south of Mindanao Island. It is the home of the infamous durian fruit and its capital is ranked as one of the largest in the world, by land area. It is serviced by an international airport.

Whilst there is little to mention in the way of diving around Mindanao as a whole, this specific area is worth checking out. Most of the sites are located around Samal and Talikud Islands in the Davao Gulf, east of the capital. There are also a couple further south off the tip of General Santos.

There are a multitude of individual sites around the islands, many of which are very similar, so we have focused on the main ones, with mention being made of the others.

Davao at a glance

Accommodation : various

Currents : moderate to strong

Average cost of a dive :

Dive Sites : 25+

Dive Operators : 4+

Getting there : internal flights from Manila 1.5hr and Cebu 55min

Off Season : July-February

Boracay

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Situated off the northern tip of Panay Island in the Visayas, Boracay has long been renowned for its superb beaches and relaxed atmosphere. The diving's not bad also.

There are some 15 sites around the island with a well established infrastructure for beginers and the more experienced alike. The island is one of the best places in the Phillipines on which to learn the sport and you will find courses that will suit the novice to the Divemaster. In the following sections, we have concentrated on the main sites, adding short descriptions of others in their vicinity. Dive operators here can also organise trips to more inaccessable locations in the Sibuyan Sea and surrounding areas.

If you're looking for great beaches, a relaxing time, some nightlife and good diving, Boracay fits the bill anywhere in the world.

Boracay at a glance

Accommodation : various

Currents : moderate to strong

Average cost of a dive :

Dive Sites : 15+

Dive Operators : 18+

Getting there : flights from Manila to Kalibo, than 2 hr drive and 15min by boat

Off Season : July-February

Leyte

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Leyte is situated in the Eastern Visayas and measures some 180km in length by 65km in width. It lies to the northeast of Cebu and the north of Bohol.

All the diving here is concentrated at the southern part of the island and can effectively be split into three main areas - around and off the coast of Limasawa Island, Pananon Island and Libagon.

All the above areas offer good diving, but southern Leyte is best known for the chances to come across whale sharks that migrate through these waters. The best time to see them is from November to the end of May.

The area is still being discovered and as a result, facilities are not as well developed as other parts of the Philippines, but they are improving all the time.

Leyte is also steeped in military and naval history. It was the island onto which General Douglas MacArthur stepped ashore uttering the immortal words "I have returned". What was left of the Japanese fleet was destroyed around the island, but wreck diving is not possible due to the depths and uncertain locations of the warships.

Leyte at a glance

Accommodation : various

Currents : can be strong

Average cost of a dive :

Dive Sites : 10+

Dive Operators : 5+

Getting there : regional flights to Cebu, then ferry. Or domestic flights from Manila to north Leyte with bus transfer 40 min

Off Season : June-Oct

The map below is interactive so click on the dive site to get more details.

In love with Istanbul

2010-02-09T23:58:00.000+08:00

By Reggie Lee

Istanbul, a city at the crossroads of Asia and Europe, is full of historical treasures, cultural wonders, great shopping and yes, warm and friendly people who are all too willing to share the delights of their capital city.

I arrive in Istanbul with no intention to buy a carpet. In fact, I have no need for a carpet, large or small.

I know Turkey is famous for its carpets and practically everyone who comes here goes home with one or two or even many, but I wasn’t going to be one of them. So why is it that within 48 hours of my arrival, I am walking out of a carpet shop with a silly grin on my face and, yes, a fine silk carpet?

Istanbul has that effect on you. It’s exuberance and joie de vivre grab people (visitors included) by the hand and pull them along for a wonderful ride.

And so, I find myself sitting in a carpet shop, being offered tea, coffee, even raki, the fiery aniseed-flavoured grape brandy that seems to be the national drink, at 10 o’clock in the morning.

“No obligation, don’t worry, it’s just our custom!” cries out the carpet seller.

He is a master salesman, teacher and psychologist all rolled into one. He has his assistants whip out carpet after carpet, one more stunning and intricate than the other. He explains materials, designs, knots per square inch, warp and weft in fascinating detail, even weaving in history.

Catching a whiff of my interest in a particular design, he patiently reels me in like a crafty angler. I don’t know why I do it but before I realise it, I am handing over my credit card and paying for a carpet I did not need.

That experience pretty much sums up my stay in Istanbul, where I am bowled over by stunning sights and the heartfelt hospitality of its people. Most of my preconceptions about Istanbul get swept away practically instantaneously. Turkey probably has the most stress-free immigration and customs in the world. There is not even the need for an arrival card to fill out.

How welcoming is that?

Turkish delights

Sitting at the crossroads between Europe and Asia, Istanbul is at once very Western and Eastern, presenting a delightful juxtaposition that just begs to be explored. Everywhere I walk on the cobblestoned streets, a new sight greets me, and every corner I turn, a discovery waits to be unearthed.

It’s no wonder that many visitors who come to Istanbul don’t even leave Sultanahmet, the Old Istanbul, a World Heritage site that is jam-packed with so many great sights that a short stay won’t do it justice.

When I enter the Aya Sofya, Istanbul’s famous monument completed in 537 A.D. and used as a church, mosque and now museum, I feel I am indeed privileged to visit one of the world’s greatest buildings. The interior, with its magnificent domed ceiling, stuns most into silence.

The Blue Mosque, constructed almost 1,000 years later, is equally awe-inspiring with its stained-glass windows and Iznik tiles. A visit to the famous Topkapi Palace takes almost a day, with its many courts and harems giving an inkling as to what it must have been like to live as royalty in the 15th century.

I walk up and down the street where, on my map, it says the Basilica Cistern should be. Instead, I discover tiny shops, eateries and art galleries, but no cistern.

To my bemusement, I’m finally directed to what looks like a shopping mall and through an unassuming entrance. Built by Justinian in 532 A.D., the Basilica Cistern shows off the extraordinary engineering skills of the Romans. Used to store, pump and deliver water, this underground cavern has symmetry and proportions that are breathtaking, lit by soft lighting that gives off a ghostly aura.

Away from the hordes of tourists, I make my way to the Kariye Muzesi, a museum in the western district. Its original name was Chora Church and it was built in the late 11th century and converted into a mosque in later centuries.

The mosaics within, as well as the frescoes, depict scenes from the Bible. It’s a quiet place, ideal for contemplation of the long and convoluted history of Turkey and what its people have endured through the centuries. No wonder they seem to grab every opportunity to celebrate and live life to the fullest, because consciously or subconsciously, they know that it could all come to a screaming stop at any time.

Shop till you drop

Really, I come to Istanbul mainly to enjoy the city, and shopping is not on my agenda. But when I enter the Grand Bazaar, all thought of restraint leaves my brain, because it is patently impossible to resist the products on offer. Beautifully painted ceramics, delicate tea sets, leatherware as soft as baby’s skin, woven bags, shoes … so much to buy, so little time. The good thing about shopping here is that all the stuff is truly made in Turkey. And with merchants who are suddenly your best friend, inviting you to “come in, just look, no obligation, have some tea”, how can you resist?

I soon discover that crafts are not the only good buys in Istanbul. Famed for its cotton (ladies, check out the Zara factory outlet), Istanbul has a very good selection of contemporary fashion as well. A stroll along Istiklal Caddesi, which is one long avenue of contemporary boutiques and stores, proves to be my undoing, and I load up on T-shirts that feel as good as they look.

Eat, drink and be merry

It’s apparent very soon after I arrive that the Turkish people are inordinately proud of not only their culture but also their food. Rarely have I been to a capital where there is so little other cuisines to be found, including the fast food joints that are everywhere in the rest of the world.

I’m not complaining though. Istanbul is a food-lover’s paradise. Even breakfast is a treat, with a variety of breads, pickles, cheeses and kahvesi, and Turkish coffee to die for. Piping hot pide or bread and kebab make for quick eats that are delicious and affordable.

As I walk towards the Galata bridge in the evening, the row of fishermen with their long, long rods suggest that I’m in for a seafood treat. Indeed, a stroll along the lower level of the bridge reveals a variety of fish restaurants.

As I tuck into awesomely fresh fish, three old gentlemen play the violin, mandolin and drum, singing melancholic melodies that have the locals joining in. At first, it sounds like mournful wailing to my untrained ears but somehow it all seems to work, especially when my meal is washed down with copious amounts of raki.

For an all-round good time though, nothing beats an evening at a mehane or tavern in Beyoglu. Nevizade Sokak is a delightful maze of alleys dotted with these mehanes, interspersed with tiny fish markets offering a vast array of seafood.

I park myself at one such tavern heaving with chattering locals and am offered a bewildering array of mezes (appetisers) and fresh fish. It’s all great fun with shoulder-to-shoulder carousing, aided in no small part by much imbibing of raki. The locals call it the drink of the gods, and all I can say after a few glasses of this cloudy white brew is that the gods sure know how to party here!

When I start to pack for home, my bag is full of food.

When I enter the Spice Market, the aromas alone convince me that I have died and entered foodie heaven. I follow my nose and discover ground Turkish coffee in a tiny hole-in-the-wall shop near the Spice Market that has the locals queuing up round the block. I notice that they buy their coffee in tiny quantities, knowing full well that coffee should be ground fresh and drunk as soon as possible.

I also splash out for cured meats and olives. Vendors offer me all kinds of Turkish Delight and I am really delighted to discover that they are truly fresh, chewy and not too sweet. Nougat, baklava, the list goes on.

While I dash around to get last minute shopping done at the Grand Bazaar, something catches my eye. It is a garden tea house, with every table occupied by locals.

There are merchants from the bazaar, taking a quick break with a glass of mint tea; businessmen, too, in suits huddled over their cell phones. Young women, stylishly dressed and wearing headscarves, chatter and smoke their nargilehs or waterpipes, while senior citizens, wrinkled and gnarled, doze over their empty glasses.

I gratefully sink into a carpeted divan and sip my apple tea, taking in my surroundings. Perhaps there’s a lesson here to be learnt from the locals who seem to co-exist peacefully, young and old, Eastern and Western, in the same teahouse. Even I, an outsider, feel embraced by their warmth and generosity.

If there’s ever been a case of falling instantly in love with a city, this is it for me.

Getting there

There are direct flights from Kuala Lumpur to Istanbul on airlines including Malaysia Airlines.

WHEN TO GO

Anytime is good. Summer months are popular although hot and crowded with tourists. Winters can be considered cold by Malaysians so perhaps the spring and autumn months are more ideal.

WHAT TO BRING

Fiercely nationalistic, the Turkish people still insist on using their own Turkish lira instead of the euro, but if you don’t manage to obtain this currency at the moneychangers, just bring enough euros. Bring a camera because Istanbul is stunningly beautiful with incredibly well preserved buildings and equally interesting people. A sense of adventure and an openness to learn and try new things. A healthy respect for the centuries-old history and culture that make Istanbul so special.

WHERE TO STAY

There are all the usual big hotel chains, but if you’re in for a little more adventure, do your research and find a pensione or bed & breakfast in Sultanahmet. What they lack in modern amenities, they make up for in charming little courtyards where you can enjoy breakfast al fresco, and the most helpful staff.

GETTING AROUND

For a city that does not feature much of anything in English. Istanbul is remarkably easy to get around. Sultanahmet is made for walking as there’s much to explore and discover on foot. A word of advice though, walking on the cobblestoned streets is tough on the legs, so bring along good walking shoes. There’s a great tram system that runs through the city that’s incredibly easy to use, including an old one that rattles up and down Istiklal Caddesi.

Stepping back in time

2010-02-09T23:57:00.000+08:00

By Liz Price

Need an idea for a day trip that’s easily accessible from Kuala Lumpur? How about one that incorporates forgotten chimneys, an old coal mining town, a historical church and beautiful orchids?

My friends and I did just that — we had a fun outing exploring Batu Arang in Ulu Selangor.

I’d been to that area before and was keen to revisit and see what else was on offer there.

The name Batu Arang means “coal”, and this small town, which lies between Kuala Selangor and Rawang, was the centre of a coal-mining industry in the early 20th century. The 100-year-old town only came into being after coal was discovered in 1911 and became a bustling, rich town where thousands lived and worked.

By the Second World War, it was the second largest town in Selangor after Kuala Lumpur.

Businessman J. A. Russell established the Malayan Collieries in Batu Arang in 1913, and this helped transform what was formerly a jungle into a thriving industrial centre.

Batu Arang had a railway line that was a side arm of the main KL-Rawang line, connecting at Kuang, and extending to Batang Berjuntai. Steam engines hauled trains laden with coal to the main line.

Production of coal increased from 1915 until it peaked in the 1940s. This meant more people moved into the area to find work. Shops and restaurants sprouted in the settlement to cater to them, and a hospital was built to cater for the sick. There was even a small airport used by small planes to drop off the salaries of the huge workforce.

As you drive around the town centre today, you’ll realise how small it is — basically just a roundabout with the police station, two rows of 1920s shophouses and several small restaurants.

The other roads are housing areas, and there is a central football field. Jalan Stesen has retained its name, but the railway line was long ago dismantled by the Japanese during World War II and never reconstructed.

During the Emergency from 1948 to 1960, Batu Arang was declared a “Black Area” because it was a base for the anti-British communist forces. The town is surrounded by undulating hills and valleys, which were ideal hiding places for the communists and from where they could launch surprise attacks. Apparently, they seized the police station in 1948 and held people hostage in the railway station.

However, the real decline of Batu Arang took place when diesel replaced coal as the main source of fuel in the late 1950s. This sounded the death knell for coal, and the mines closed down in 1958. The Chinese miners and other workers left, and the buildings fell into disrepair or were torn down after they became unsafe because the ground had become riddled with cavities and mined passages.

I was disappointed to find no visible trace from the days of mining, although there are supposed to be some ventilation tunnels still remaining.

The huge open cast pits surrounding the town are now filled with water. At one time, the area was threatened by erosion due to dropping water tables as a result of the coal mining.

However there are some historical remains. As you approach the town, it is easy to spot a tall chimney standing like a lonely sentinel above the trees. It’s not entirely alone as there is another chimney further away, and also the remains of the old buildings with smaller chimneys. These are all that are left over from a brick-making industry. Today, the tallest chimney, which not surprisingly is made of bricks, has a small tree growing out of the top.

The orchid farm on the way to Rawang at Bt 23 sells cut orchids at a resonable price. — LIZ PRICE

Some of the Chinese miners still live here, and the town has become quite multi-ethnic. And new factories are opening up so people are coming back to the area. One such industry is SME Ordnance Sdn Bhd, which produces ammunition and bombs. Another is Kilang Tenaga Kimia Bhd which also manufactures explosive products.

I had read on the Internet about an old church in Batu Arang so we drove around the small town looking for it.

We stopped at Gereja St Michael but this was relatively modern (1971) and wasn’t the one I was looking for. We talked to the caretaker, and she told us about the old Catholic church up on the hill, and I realised this was the building we had passed on the way down to the town.

So we retraced our steps up the hill. At first sight, the building looks more like a simple colonial building. One only realises it is a church because of the statue of the Virgin Mary and the huge cross on top of the building.

However, we were still a bit confused as there was a guard house at the start of the driveway, ambulances parked under a shelter, and several Malays going in and out.

We were later introduced to the administrator, Anthony Gomez, and he offered to give us a tour of the place — now called Welcome Community. The Welcome Community is now an after-care home for HIV patients run by a Catholic group, the Catholic Welfare Services.

The history of the building is interesting. It was built around 80 years ago (1920s) by the British for use as an army mess for the garrison. That explains why it doesn’t look like a church. Then it was occupied by the Japanese. After the Japanese left, it went back to the Brits until they left. It was then run by missionaries, hence the statue and cross outside. In recent years, it was converted to a home for drug addicts and HIV patients.

The place was taken over by the Welcome Community in April 2008. Nowadays, it’s a bright, clean and airy building where doctors attend to the residents, and foreign volunteers come from overseas to work for short periods.

The beds were donated from the Assunta Hospital in Petaling Jaya. There is room for more than 40 inmates, although currently there are only around 37, aged between 20 and 60. They have been referred to the home from the Sungai Buloh Hospital or the local prisons.

It seems we had chosen quite an unusual day for our visit, as the Muslim residents were being transferred to a new home specially set up for them. Until now the residents all lived as one community whatever their religion, hence the Catholic pictures on the walls, a large crucifix on the top of the building, and one room which has been converted into a surau (prayer room).

The people are well cared for, and many are better physically than when they arrived, due to good food and caring community. The surrounding land is used for gardening and for growing vegetables. It was certainly a nice feeling to see people of different races looking quite content despite the hardships they had been through.

Soon it was time to say goodbye to Gomez and his staff and set off for home. But we made one more unscheduled stop when we saw an orchid farm on the way to Rawang, at Batu 23. We wandered in and the colours of the orchids were really stunning, almost every shade you could imagine. I couldn’t resist taking photos, and before leaving, I bought a large bunch of beautiful blooms for just RM5.

It was a good memento of a nice day out.

Getting there

Batu Arang is located between Rawang and Kuala Selangor. There are various ways to get there from Kuala Lumpur. One option is to go towards Rawang, then turn left onto Jalan Batu Arang which is the B27. After some miles turn left onto the B111 which leads straight to Batu Arang.

Or, from Sungai Buloh, head for Kundang and keep going until you reach the B27. As you approach Batu Arang, the road is winding and hilly and surrounded by green forest and has a nice rural feel.

The Batu Arang Welcome Community is located on the hill on the B111 that leads down to the town.

For more information on Welcome Community Home, call (03) 6035 1463, fax (03) 6035 1009 or e-mail: welcomehospice@gmail.com

The orchid farm, United Malaysian Orchids Sdn Bhd, is located at Batu 23, Jalan Batu Arang, Rawang. You can buy whole plants or cut flowers at very reasonable prices.

Pagodas in the dust

2010-02-09T23:56:00.001+08:00

By Liew Suet Fun

Dust permeates the landscape, settling on the buildings, trees and people, and yet dust somehow gives Myanmar’s Bagan, an abandoned city of pagodas, an ethereal expression.

Lying 145km southwest of Mandalay in Myanmar is Bagan, a square of land filled with thousands of centuries-old pagodas, once the seat of a powerful royal capital and the setting for invasions. These days, tourists outnumber the locals and the crumbling pagodas.

Only the swirling dust on these plains have remained the same, day and night, for all seasons.

Imagine a ring of distant hills encircling almost 26sq km of land. Then, imagine 2,217 pagodas, some ruined, some intact, with many still marked by their rising spires standing erect like an army of quiet sentinels waiting patiently for their general to arrive. And then imagine the dust.

It’s everywhere. That fine film that even a whisper of a breeze can lift and gently layer onto your skin and, like a delicate skein, wound around you till you are entrapped, head to toe. On a particularly hot, dry day, it leaves a fine grit in your mouth. This was what struck me most when we arrived in Bagan.

It was October, and the advent of cooler days was already evidenced by the crisper air in the mornings and evenings. Still, the dust persisted, a swirling presence beneath the torpor of the remaining hot afternoons.

A view of Bagan — this dusty plain is far from plain.

Strangely enough, the dust grew on us. Instead of detracting, it began defining and making unique every scene we saw in Bagan.

The dust rose behind every passing bullock cart, every car and even every bicycle that traversed its winding paths around the pagodas. The dust layered every ruin and every leaf on every tree that could survive in this inhospitable land. The dust covered our hands, our shoes, our watches, our backpacks, our cameras, our guidebooks and every centimetre of our exposed skin.

But most of all, the dust created a setting in which the pagodas’ holiness found a perennially ethereal expression.

Bagan at sunset

That such an inhospitable landscape would be forever preserved may have been in the minds of its creators who leaped into a fervour of pagoda-building between the 11th and 13th century when Buddhism began a tight embrace of the Myanmar people and persists till today.

Now, almost 90% of the nation’s population of 54 million is Buddhist, with about a million monks scattered throughout the innumerable monasteries which dot both rural and urban terrain.

Little is known of the origins of Bagan, although legend has it that it grew out of a coming together of 19 villages. Its history had little significance until King Anawrahta (1044-1077) ascended the throne.

A fearsome warrior, he conquered the Mon kingdom of Thaton in the south and brought back to his capital the deposed King Manuha together with his vast entourage of architects, artists, artisans, craftsmen of every description and monks who knew the Pali scripture of Theravada Buddhism.

From hereon, the conqueror became the conquered. The monks shaped many aspects of life through their teachings. From them, the Myanmar people received their alphabet, religion and scriptures.

It also marked the beginning of a period of spectacular architectural and artistic pursuits lasting for at least 290 years. This saw a city and its surroundings engulfed with thousands of splendid monuments of all shapes and sizes, their inner walls covered with beautiful frescoes.

Our guide and interpreter, U Win quoted a popular saying in Bagan which says that you cannot move a hand or a foot without touching a sacred thing.

The cotton candy man attracts the children

This may not be true today as so many of the structures have become hoary, weather-beaten ruins.

However, in its heyday, with more than 5,000 pagodas and monasteries crowded into this tiny square of land on the east bank of the Ayerwaddy, it may have held more than a grain of truth.

Certainly, what began as one man’s vision — to build a closed area where every which way one turned, one is engulfed by large and small pagodas and temples and effected by a heightened sense of prayer and meditation — was spectacularly realised.

This vision was followed by almost three centuries of building fervour, after which a series of events not only marked its end, but led to the abandonment of Bagan as a seat of power.

In 1284, attacks by the Chinese, in a bid to avenge the murder of its ambassador, precipitated the defensive but ruinous manoeuvres of the Burmese king who pulled down 1,000 arched temples, 1,000 smaller ones and 4,000 square temples to strengthen fortifications.

Water ways - Photos by S.C. SHEKAR

This same king eventually fled south when he discovered a damning prophecy under one of the desecrated shrines.

More than 720 years have elapsed since royalty took to its heels, leaving Bagan in the dust. With the city devoid of its status as a capital, the people, largely descendants of a community which served the pagodas, monasteries and the royalty, were left to eke out a living. They attempted to cultivate hardy crops such as sesame and millet on the dusty fields, increasingly courting poverty.

Myanmar, a country which has seen radical political changes in the last four decades, is still struggling to define itself as a nation. In its midst, Bagan continued to be left on its own until 1990 when the government, recognising the need to preserve the pagodas, instituted a people-relocation programme to a planned township called New Bagan.

New laws were also introduced to save the precarious landscape from deforestation. Anyone caught cutting down a tree could be jailed for three years or levied with a hefty fine.

The notion of prayer, meditation and peace was envisioned by its creators, but the latter remains elusive to many of the people we met.

“Peace is for the rich, not for the poor,” said U Mya Hlaing Ho, our porter who is also a temple care-taker and lacquerware maker.

In 1996 when it was “Visit Myanmar Year”, a large influx of tourists demonstrated that tourism could be a new source of income for the local people. Not only could they function as tourist guides, they also found an audience who was interested in buying the fine crafts which sprung from their lineage as royal artists and craftsmen. But even with the new-found means to earn FEs (foreign exchange), there is an overarching sense of despair over their increasingly impoverished circumstances.

U Mya spoke glumly of a five-star resort and the viewing tower situated right in the heart of the pagoda area. He is not alone in his worry that tourists will only be allowed to view the landscape from the tower and denied access to other places to which he and fellow guides would normally show the tourists and earn that much-needed extra income.

He prayed that this would not happen, as he already had a “miserable life”.

It didn’t seem much to ask for, and amidst the thousands of pagodas and temples where prayers have been said for the last 800 years, you would think that despite their dusty layers, someone would heed these voices and grant them what they so fervently pray for.

Mergui : North Twin

2010-01-31T18:18:00.002+08:00

This island bears a lot of resemblance to the Similans under the surface, the highlights are a ridge or plateau to the south and a pinnacle to the north. The ridge is covered in soft coral and sea fans and also homes batfish, groupers and several nurse sharks. A reef along the west coast of North Twin makes a great spot for night dives where crustaceans and Spanish dancers are common.

Depth: 10 - 40m

Viz: 20 - 40m

Currents: Can be strong

Getting there : Liveaboard

Best months: Jan / May

Mergui : Three Islets (Shark Cave)

2010-01-31T18:18:00.001+08:00

This spot is also called Shark Cave Island and has three rocks rising from 40 metres deep to above the surface, it offers some of the best marine life in the Archipelago and cannot all be seen in one single dive. Huge shoals of snappers and fusiliers swirl around you as you begin the descent down the coral covered walls, it is one of the better spots to find harlequin shrimp and harlequin ghost pipefish.

For the thrill seekers there is a huge canyon to the north of the middle island and leads to a cave at around 16 metres, the entrance is usually guarded by several grey reef sharks that may lose their shyness and swim upto you if you stay quiet and motionless. The tunnel is around 20 metres long and has many cup corals and sponges along its walls, take care of possible surge within the tunnel.

Depth: 10 - 30m

Viz: 20 - 40m

Currents: Can be strong

Getting there : Liveaboard

Best months: Jan / May

Mergui : Western Rocky Island

2010-01-31T18:17:00.000+08:00

A dramatic underwater terrain greets you at this divesite. It includes a long underwater arch and tunnel where large tawny nurse sharks are often seen resting or even guarding. The tunnel leads from one side of the island to the other and is completely dark in the middle. The soft limestone island is more like a series of pinnacles than one rock, this creates crevaces for other marine life to hide and a playground for reef sharks and some large triggerfish and stingrays.

Western Rocky Pinnacle
This is around 20 km north of the island and has many huge seafans at depth, also home to larger visiting pelagics who hang out along the ridges and canyons. Currents can be strong out here so tides must be observed.

Depth: 10 - 40m

Viz: 20 - 40m

Currents: Can be strong

Getting there : Liveaboard

Best months: Dec / May

Mergui Archipelago

2010-01-31T18:16:00.000+08:00

Following several years of negotiations the Burmese (Myanmar) government finally opened up access to its waters in 1997 thus opening the door to countless unexplored and pristine dive sites. It truly is one of the last remaining diving frontiers on the planet. The Mergui Archipelago consists of over 800 islands, some of them the size of Singapore or Phuket and most of them uninhabited, the only dwellers on these waters are a few local sea gypsies. Despite the governments pressure to protect the archipelago evidence of dynamite fishing can still be found. However the authorities have finally awoken to the power of the tourist dollar and have consequently outlawed dynamite and shark fishing in the area. There is also an entrance fee to the area and all boats enter and depart via Kawthaung (Ko Song or Victoria Point are other names for it), just west of Ranong, Thailand.

Diving here is simply awesome with great visibility, sharks and manta rays, and pristine coral reefs it offers only the best.

See this article for more info on diving in Mergui.

Burma liveaboard trips

We now also offer liveaboard trips to the Mergui Archipelago from Thailand, visit the Similans, and world class dive sites of Black Rock, North and South Twins and Western Rocky from the luxury of a liveaboard, find out more here: Burma Liveaboards

Mergui Archipelago at a glance

Geography : Hundreds of inshore and offshore islands and reefs.

Accommodation : Liveabaord

Highlights : Untouched dive spots, great visibility, sharks and marine life.

Average cost of a dive : liveaboard only.

Off Season : July / Oct

Burma Banks

2010-01-31T18:14:00.000+08:00

The Burma Banks are a series of submerged sea mounts in remote waters around 180km northwest of the Similans. Their name derives from the fact that they lie within the Exclusive Economic Zone of Burma. While there is good hard coral growth here, this is not the main attraction, big animals are what divers are looking for when they travel this far out into the ocean. Waters surrounding the Banks drop to 350 metres deep and they are considered one of the best places in the world to dive with sharks. With local populations of silvertip and nurse sharks that are not afraid of divers sightings are pretty much guaraunteed.

Drift diving is very popular here as currents can be strong and unpredictable. As it is oceanic diving and very remote dive operators are often stricter on their safety procedures.

Burma Banks at a glance

Geography : Submerged oceanic peaks

Accommodation : Liveabaord

Highlights : Remoteness, diving with sharks, drift diving.

Average cost of a dive : liveaboard only

Currents : Can be strong

Viz : Upto 45m

Off Season : July / Aug

Mactan

2010-01-24T19:27:00.000+08:00

Mactan is a coral island, 62sq km in area that lies just off the coast of Cebu. Because of its proximity to Cebu City and the international airport there, the diving infrastructure is well developed and visitors can literally be in the water within an hour or so of flying in.

Whilst the island dosn't offer the best sites in the Visayas region, there is plenty of choice and it attracts thousands of divers every year. The east coast offers the best variety of sites along its walls and the Hilutangan Channel that seperates it from Olango Island is extremely deep, therefore offering good oppotunities to see larger fish life.

Currents can be strong, so not every dive is suitable for beginners. As sites are numerous and in some instances very similar, they are grouped into 3 sections, one of which is the seperate Olango Island.

Mactan is a favorite jumping-off point for excursions further afield around the Visayas region. Live-aboard safaris can be organised from here.

Mactan at a glance

Accommodation : All types, plenty of tourist facilities

Depth : 20-60m

Viz : average 20m

Currents : can be strong

Average cost of a dive : $25

Dive Sites : 12+

Dive Operators : 10+

Getting there : International airport in Cebu City. Internal flights 1 hr from Manila. 45 mins to island

Off Season : July to Sept

Cebu

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Situated in the middle of the Visayas region, Cebu has an international airport and is a great starting point from which to explore the whole region. Tour operators will gladly ferry you to the sites listed below and other neighbouring islands.

Essentially, diving can be split into four main areas - Malapascua Island in the north, Mactan Island close to Cebu city off the east coast, Moalboal off the west and Sumilon in the south. By far and away the most popular spot is Mactan Island. Whilst it does not necessarily offer the best diving around Cebu, the proliferation of dive sites warrants a seperate section. The other three are covered here.

Cebu City is the second busiest in the Phillipines and the island offers everything from fair diving on Mactan to more get-away locations. You can find wrecks, superb corals and small and large marine life all within a few hours journey of the capital.

Cebu at a glance

Accommodation : all standards

Currents : can be strong

Average cost of a dive :

Dive Sites : 20+

Dive Operators : 10+

Getting there : direct flights from Hong Kong, Singapore and Japan. Internal flights. Transfer to sites 1-3 hours.

Off Season : July-February

Bohol

2010-01-24T19:25:00.000+08:00

Bohol is an Island Province in the Visayas region. Its capital is Tagbilaran and it is the 10th largest island in the Philippines. With Cebu to the west, Leyte to the northeast and Mindanao to the south, Bohol is surrounded by other islands. As a result, it is fairly sheltered from typhoons and the heaviest of the rains.

Bohol has long been regarded as having some of the best diving in the Philippines, particularly along the southwest corner. Most of the sites are located on four islands that are easily reachable from the mainland, so the geographical structure of this section takes that form.

The diversity of diving here makes Bohol attractive for all - from novices to the more experienced. Night diving, in certain areas, is especially good.

Bohol at a glance

Accommodation : various and liveaboard safaris

Currents : moderate to strong

Average cost of a dive :

Dive Sites : 13+

Dive Operators : 15+

Getting there : Flight to Cebu from Manila and fast ferry to Tagbilaran. Transfers to dive sites are up to 1 hr by road or sea from there.

Off Season : July-Oct

Switzerland’s great unknown

2010-01-24T02:14:00.001+08:00

By AGATHA MATAYUN

Fine wine in Switzerland? Who would have thought?

Precision watches, cuckoo clocks, fine cheese, chocolate, banking: Switzerland is well known for all of these. But wine? When I let out that I was going to Switzerland and that vineyards were on the itinerary, there was amazement all around.

Does Switzerland produce wine? — people wanted to know.

Frankly, I hadn’t had Swiss wine before, but I was to hear from the horse’s mouth that the Swiss really do produce wine, and good ones too. In fact, it is home to one of the oldest vineyards in the world, the Unesco World Heritage-listed Lavaux on the shores of Lake Geneva.

It was in Geneva that we, a group comprising five journalists and — for want of a better word — public relations “handler”, Azreen Mohamed, began our trip.

“So what watches do Swiss people prefer?” I asked Isabelle Hesse, the press officer from Tourism Geneva, and Gianna Loredan, our designated tour guide. Hesse seemed taken by surprise.

“Oh, we go for normal ones,” she said, whatever that meant.

After a rapid exchange with Loredan, she named Patek Philippe as one of the more popular brands. Whether or not this influenced the itinerary in the later part of the day, we don’t know. But we did find ourselves trotting to the Patek Philippe museum at Rue des Vieux-Grenadiers 7. Actually, it was either that or a lake cruise, but since it was a chilly afternoon, the idea of a boat ride did not appeal at all.

“If there was something about your city that you were proud of, what would it be?” we asked Loredan.

View from the castle in Gruyeres. The various mountains of the Swiss Alps provide magnificent backdrops to the towns and villages of Switzerland.

“The fact that it is an international city,” she replied immediately.

Geneva is HQ to some 200 international organisations, most of which are located around the Place (Square) des Nations. Facing the square is the imposing Palais des Nations, European HQ of the United Nations. Loredan said she normally took public transport — a norm in this city of 186,825 inhabitants (city proper) — but when she had visitors to take around, she used an SUV.

Every so often, she pointed out an interesting place, followed by a detailed description.

“That’s the European Centre for Nuclear Research (CERN)”; “Over there is the headquarters of the ILO, ICRC and WHO”; “Oh, the water fountain is off, it must be because of the cold weather.”

At the Place des Nations, she explained the significance of the gigantic chair there, the one with its legs partly cut off.

“Notice that it is not a clear cut but a stump. It is a poignant symbol of the suffering of communities all over the world, including in Cambodia, whose lives are threatened by mines laid in times of war,” Loredan explained.

If you have only 24 hours in Geneva, like we did, then you would have to hurry if you wanted to catch all the sights, including the Cathedral of St Pierre (a majestic building built between 1160 and 1232 and is still in use for Protestant religious services).

“We don’t have in Geneva places like a Latin quarter or Chinatown,” Loredan said. “Everything is mixed here. This is really the will of the government. Everybody integrates easier than when they are in their own communities.”

Geneva is not just the city but includes the canton, and Loredan took us to its countryside of vineyards, hills, forests and farms.

Although small, the town of Gruyeres has adequate facilities for tourists, including a castle to visit, a number of museums, and leisure activities like skiing in winter and hiking in summer.

“Almost everybody knows Geneva is an exporter of watches, but very few know we have good wines,” she said with pride. “We are the third largest wine-growing canton in Switzerland. That’s quite amazing considering we are the second smallest canton. We also grow 40 different types of apples, and are the largest producer of tomatoes in the country.”

Next, Loredan took us to Carouge, a small, charming city separated geographically from Geneva by the Arve River. Located 2km south of Geneva, Carouge was built mainly in the 18th century and remains a unique example in Europe of post-medieval urbanism.

“You see this building? It’s typical of Carouge — small houses and workshops of craftsmen on the ground floor, and one floor up are their apartments. There are lots of unusual shops with nice settings and exclusive products that can be discovered here,” said Loredan.

It was relatively quiet in Carouge, and it was pleasant to stroll around and look into the artisan shops. On the drive to Carouge, Loredan pointed something out to us.

“See the rapid on that river? You can go rafting down there. The river comes from the Mont Blanc massif and flows to the River Rhone. This is one of the hidden aspects of Geneva. You can go whitewater rafting in the middle of the city.”

Meanwhile, the shopaholics in the group were getting restive. In Geneva, shops generally close by 7pm on weekdays (closed on Sundays), and by the time our official itinerary was over, the shutters were coming down.

Anyway, we all knew Switzerland was an expensive place and so we clung on to our precious ringgit for a little while more. It was more of a pit-stop for us in Geneva but we managed to get the general lay of the land.

Montreux-Vevey

We all came out to Montreux

On the Lake Geneva shoreline

To make records with a mobile . . .

Yes, that’s the first three lines of the song Smoke of the Water by British rock band Deep Purple. The uninitiated may be interested to know that the song actually describes a real event, the burning of the Montreux Casino in 1971.

“Smoke on the water” referred to the smoke from the fire spreading over Lake Geneva. Montreux, on the north-east shore of Lake Geneva in the canton of Vaud, has made its mark in other areas as well. If you have heard of the Montreux Jazz Festival, then you would know it has been held here for the last 40 years.

Dubbed the Swiss Riviera, Montreux is prized as a holiday and residence by artistes, celebrities and the rich and famous. At the quayside, the life-sized figure of Freddie Mercury is a popular snapping point for visitors. Sharing a bit of gossip, our guide said Mercury actually died in Montreux but everything was hushed up because his estate wanted to escape the heavy death taxes here.

B. B. King, Ray Charles, Miles Davis and Ella Fitzgerald have also been honoured with life-sized figures in various locations in the city.

So what do you do in Montreux?

Give yourself a treat and ride on the Golden Pass Panoramic train from Montreux to Gruyeres. It is a scenic drive all the way, and the design of the train allows you wide views of the outside.

There are numerous shops to attack, from low-end shops to high-end boutiques and delicatessens. For sightseers, a stroll by the lake is ideal for enjoying the sights of the city whose buildings seem to cling precariously to steep slopes.

The climate is conducive to walking, and the lakeside scenery is awesome. And who knows? You might just rub shoulders with celebrities. There are many around, according to our guide. Then there’s the Casino, where Ferraris and other luxury cars are parked at the entrance. Our only adventure here was to have lunch, though.

There are other places to visit, like Chillon Castle, which we reached by boat. Our Swiss Pass allowed us passage on the boat as well as entry into the castle. Built in the 13th century by the Counts of Savoy, it has inspired various creative people including Lord Byron, who supposedly wrote one of his poems after visiting it.

Not too far away is Vevey, which boasts a very global name — Nestle. The House of Nestle is here, and it also has a food museum called the Alimentarim. Like Montreux, Vevey is also a magnet for long-stay celebrity visitors.

Here, we posed happily with Charlie Chaplin — a life-sized statue of the great English comedian actor and film director, that is. Chaplin died in Vevey in 1977. He and his wife were interred in the Corsier-Sur-Vevey cemetery.

And then it was time to go to Lavaux, a Unesco World Heritage site since June 2007, whose terraced vineyards, spread over 800ha, have been producing wine for more than 800 years.

It is said that Lavaux is the “Land of Three Suns” — sun in the sky, from which the steep hillsides derive good benefit; the sun in the lake, which serves as a mirror; and the sun in the walls, which store up warmth. We saw this with our own eyes: in the late afternoon, the shadows were long and the lake was a shimmering mirror of the low-lying sun.

Lavaux produces eight quality appellations: Lutry, Vilette, Epesses, St Saphorin, Dezaley (Grand Cru), Clamin (Grand Cru), Chardonne and Vevey-Montreux. The different vintages may be tasted on the spot, in the cellar belonging to the wine grower, the wholesaler or in a small bar.

When asked why there was a dearth of Swiss wine in the international market, our guide said: “We produce too little to export. It may also be because in the past, the Swiss Franc was too expensive compared to the other currencies. With the Euro now, it is comparably cheaper.”

So how does one go to the vineyards?

“Go to a tourism office, and they will give you all the information you need,” she said.

Visitors are rewarded with a chocolate-tasting session at Caillers Chocolate factory.

The Pre-Alps

Switzerland lies in the midst of the Alps. These magnificent mountains occupy three-fifths of the country. The Alps provide a beautiful backdrop to the villages and towns nestled in their midst, one of which is the town of Gruyeres, home of the world-famous Gruyere cheese.

Visitors can get there using the Golden Pass, another component of the efficient Swiss Travel System. The ride offers vistas of rolling countryside peppered with farmhouses, grazing cows and small towns. It is said that Swiss cows are happy cows, and we found out why this was so at La Maison du Gruyere.

In one of the sections in the factory, samples of the grass the cows feed on were kept in special containers for visitors to smell. One sample even had a component that would normally be considered contraband.

“Hmmm, people could get high on this,” I thought after smelling a particularly potent sample.

It is said that it was the richness of the milk in Gruyeres that made Alexander Cailler, producer of Caillers chocolates, set up his factory in the region in 1897. Maison Cailler is nowadays one of the most important companies in the area.

As a town, Gruyeres is charming with its medieval setting. It has a castle that’s worth visiting and a number of museums, including a very modern one, the Museum of H. R. Giger, creator of the movie Aliens.

For the die-hard hiker, there are various walks to take, one of which is the Cheese Dairy Path, a two-hour hike from Pringy to Moleso-sur-Gruyeres that will get you a diploma if you complete it. Other activities include hot-air ballooning, horse-riding, skydiving and helicopter rides.

Personally, the breath-taking scenery was enough to keep me happy.

Getting there & around

A number of airlines fly to Geneva from KLIA. We travelled on Etihad Airways (www.etihadairways.com), the national airline of the UAE. Based in Abu Dhabi, Etihad currently serves 58 destinations in the Middle East, Europe, North America, Africa and Asia, and flies daily from Kuala Lumpur to Abu Dhabi.

Once in Switzerland, you’ll find that public transport is the best means of moving about. Trains are never late so be sure to be on time. In fact, the service is so punctual that you can actually look at the time of departure rather than the number of the train you want.

The best way to travel is to purchase a Swiss Pass, which is available from the airport railway stations (Zurich, Geneva or Basle), or via the designated travel agents.

The Swiss Pass includes four, eight, 15 or 22 days or one month’s unlimited access to the Swiss Travel System’s rail, bus and boat network in 38 towns and cities. It also doubles as passes to 450 museums all over the country.

Bright & breezy Britain

2010-01-24T02:11:00.000+08:00

Stories by LOUISA LIM

Britain in 2010 is going to be hot, hot, hot — and no, we’re not talking about the effects of global warming.

louisa@thestar.com.my

English writer Samuel Johnson wasn’t just harping on empty rhetoric when he wrote, “When a man is tired of London, he is tired of life. For there is in London all that life can afford.”

But to rely solely on Johnson’s quote would be a mistake, for there is much more to the UK than London.

Why, you ask? Because as the winter weather makes way for the springtime sun, the rising temperatures and blooming flowers aren’t the only thing that will have Britain and its lucky inhabitants go “Cor, blimey!” each year.

Scores of hotel openings, eccentric bookshops, flirting tours, retro fashion shops, vegetarian paradise updates, new festivals and quirky galleries are set to make British cities sizzle more than before.

And before you brush aside any talk of high-budget holidays, here’s a fascinating fact to rejoice in: a ranking of the most expensive places in the world has shown that Britain has fallen from second to 20th place, due to stabilising or falling prices.

So the economic tumult has its advantages after all! While this isn’t guaranteed to last, it sure is a great excuse for a much-needed, albeit short-term, R&R.

If that’s not enough reason, London is officially launching its London Cycle Hire Scheme from summer 2010, when Mayor Boris Johnson and Transport for London (TFL) will make cycles available 24/7. Talk about a cheap, fun workout! All you need to do is put on those walking (or pedalling) shoes and work up an intrepid spirit, because it’s time to venture further afield.

To get you started, here is a rundown of some of the newest and hottest places to hit in Britain.

There is no shortage of things to see and do in Britain.

Rockin’ retail

Yes, Christmas may have left us with thinly-lined pockets but there are just too many hot stores to check out throughout the country! The High Street Retro Centre in Hastings takes 60s retro furniture and clothing to the highest level, with top pieces from the 60s and 70s era.

It’s all about boutique shopping with the newly opened “Folk” clothing store at The Old Truman Brewery, as well as “Cube Store” at the Boiler House, which includes the UK’s first ever pop-up shop from celebrated Parisian design house, Colette.

My Sugarland in Islington is a vintage clothing boutique opened by stylist Zoe Lern, offering established and emerging designers and your very own personal stylist.

But let’s not forget the blinding bling. Jade Jagger has opened her first shop in Notting Hill, Jade Jagger Studio, which promises luxury jewellery and fashion. Annoushka jewellery shop has opened in Cadogan Gardens in London, run by British jeweller Annoushka Ducas.

Last but not least, nature-lovin’ chicks will go ga-ga for Ascension, the new eco-friendly boutique in St Christopher’s Place with organic cotton bedding, Fairtrade denim, naturally dyed clothing and guilt-free beauty products. Green is, after all, the new black!

Do you read this?

Even if you find bookstores boring, you might still love The Book Club (TBC) in Shoreditch. This is one of those rare cases when the name doesn’t say it all, since TBC offers many other joys apart from books, like newspapers, beer, poetry, film, cocktails, lunch, brunch and storytelling.

Heading down a similar path is the nearby Kaleid Editions, a publishing company and exhibit space for artists.

In Old Towne’s George Street, Hastings, is Boulevard Books — a bookshop by day, Thai café by night. You dine on authentic Thai cuisine at tables interspersed throughout the bookshelves. If that isn’t clever, we don’t know what is.

Dieting is for doozies

To all weight watchers, instead of starving yourself silly, why not go vegetarian? And no, synthetic-tasting tofu does not qualify as food in Britain. Ever heard of Veggie pub grub or healthy high-class veggie dining? Britain has both!

The George in Brighton is 100% fingerlickin’ with its all-veg pub food, while Terre-a-Terre and Food For Friends in the nearby Lanes offer a much more sophisticated vegetarian fare. In addition, all Punch Taverns in London have added vegetarian fish and chips, a must-try even for non-vegetarians.

Another perennial problem: veggies are often excluded from the oh-so-nice Tasting Menus, or fraught with beetroot and goat cheese creations. But enter the Berkshire-based Vineyard at Stockcross. This Hotel Restaurant of the Year with two Michelin stars has saved the day by creating a new Vegetarian tasting menu!

Meanwhile, those who aren’t overly concerned about their health can also jump for joy with the opening of several new breweries. The new Brewery Visitor Centre and Museum in Burton-upon-Trent in Staffordshire, retells the history and science of brewing through the years with interactive activities and a place to eat and enjoy a pint.

Back in London, The Old Brewery in Greenwich, which has been reconstructed from the original brewery dating back to 1717, will open in March with a bar and a restaurant.

Celebrate good times

British humour? Always hot. The Leicester Comedy Festival is on from Feb 5-21 with big name acts and emerging talent second only, according to some, to the Edinburgh Fringe. During the same week, from Feb 3-6 is the Dartmouth Comedy Festival that promises buckets of laughter.

Loved Dirty Dancing? Birmingham will see the International Dance Festival in April with an eclectic mix of dance which will include the National Ballet of Cuba, Strictly Come Dancing and C!RCA circus show.

Oh, what would life be without music? Those who agree should check out the year-long Music Village Festival, during which international artists will be flown into London in a series of festivals, museum exhibitions and artistic collaborations.

Art lovers should check out The London Art Fair from Jan 13-17 showcasing contemporary British art pieces at the Business Design Centre.

Discover Young Hackney, meanwhile, is a festival of workshops and “taster sessions” by creative professionals in music, dance, radio, art, photography, fashion design, singing, film and theatre launching at the Hackney Empire from January to February.

Flirt like a pro

Master the art of seduction with Cour-tea-san De-Light at the Met Bar of the Metropolitan Hotel. They are running seduction courses together with lingerie brand The Modern Courtesan, offering cocktails and some sexy edutainment.

They have teamed up with handbag designer LuLu Guinness to create a LuLu’s Tea with an Afternoon De-Light menu of designs from her upcoming Autumn/Winter 2010 collection.

Tired of tea? Try the Flirting & Walking Tour of London, a 90-minute tour of flirting hotspots of central London with social anthropologist-cum-relationship expert Jean Smith.

From working on your game to working on your inner 50s icon, 40 Winks is hosting wildly popular TART evenings — girls only — where you can discover and dress like a 50s starlet all whilst enjoying tea and cakes, sandwiches with old-fashioned fun, fashion and frivolity.

Then there is the Boom Boom Club in the city. At the “BBC” each week, a daring rock-n-roll cabaret is hosted by Dusty Limits, a well-known neo-cabaret scenester while the burlesque is curated by Miss Vicky Butterfly.

Proud Cabaret has also opened in the heart of the city. The basement has a speakeasy feel with velvet curtains, mirrored VIP area and entertainment from jazz, to burlesque and DJ sets. Sexy!

Here to help

Here are some surprising statistics: British High Commissioner to Malaysia, Boyd McCleary, says, 60% of Malaysian tourists who visit the UK explore no further than London. With so many things to see and do around the country — whether it’s traipsing through the fairytale township of Chester or hiking the lush, green valleys of the Lake District — it’s a shame that they don’t.

To help make it easier for first-time visitors to navigate their way out of the big city, the national tourist board for the UK, Visit Britain, has launched their new Brit Agent programme.

“Ninety-five travel agents from 14 local travel agencies have just completed the BritAgent e-learning programme and are now Certified Brit Agents trained to maximise the value of a Britain holiday, match activities with travellers’ interests, and prepare exciting itineraries to make the vacation even more memorable,” says McCleary.

“We’re upscaling the travel agents to meet the growing number of Malaysians travelling to the UK, which stood at about 92,000,000 (Jan-Sept 2009, International Passengers Survey) last year, despite it being a difficult period for all.”

Not only that, this whopping figure is expected to surge in the next three years when Britain brims with activity from the 2012 Olympic and Paralympic Games to the Cultural Olympiad.

In 2010, Wales plays host to the Ryder Cup, the third biggest sporting event after the Olympics and the World Cup.

England will hold a once in a lifetime event — “Illuminating Hadrian’s Wall” — and Scotland’s Edinburgh International Festival and Fringe promises to be even bigger and better in 2010.

Phu Quoc

2010-01-21T16:42:00.001+08:00

The island of Phu Quoc lies 100 kilometers off the Southwest coastline of Vietnam and is very close to Cambodia. It is almost the same size as Singapore but has been left alone by toursim for many years. Diving here has only been happening for a couple of years and new sites are still being discovered. Marine life is very similar to that found in the Gulf of Thailand with few big pelagics but a lot of smaller reef fish and breath-taking, pristine coral. Unfortunately evidence of dynamite fishing can be seen on some of the reefs here but the island does boast one of the best dive sites in the country with Turtle Island off the Northwest coast. We will update this page when further infomation becomes available.

Depths: 5 - 35m

Viz: 5 - 20m

Currents: Occasional

Getting there : Boat 2 hours from mainland.

Best months: Nov to June

Average cost of a dive: $35

Whale Island

2010-01-21T16:41:00.002+08:00

On a peninsula around 80 kilometers north of Nha Trang is the idyllic paradise resort of Whale Island. The area has been associated with scuba diving for many years and it was here that Jacques Cousteau first discovered his passion for the underwater world. Diving is ideal for beginners and more experienced divers with gentle sloping beach dives, deep drop offs and high adrenaline drift diving. Marine life is equally as impressive and there is also the chance of spotting whale sharks or even whales and sharks as the waters soon get deep off the coast here.

There are several dive sites around the area including the following:

Hon Trau Nam (Three Kings): Swimthoughs and caves, rays often seen resting.

Hon Kho Trang: Two dive sites, coral gardens, good visibility and marine life.

Hon Tai (Ear Island): Coral plateau, nurse and whitetips often spotted, sea slugs.

Napoleon Rock: Sheltered site with sandy bottom, resident napoleon wrasse.

Raoul's Reef: Wall covered in feather stars, ghost pipefish found here.

Bai Su: Caves at 15m, good for spotting nudibranchs, nice to dive at night.

Hon Ong: Good night dive spot with seahorses, shrimps and spanish dancers.

Depths: 5 - 40m

Viz: 5 - 25m

Currents: Occasional

Getting there : Boat 1 to 2 hours depending on site

Best months: Feb to Sept

Nha Trang

2010-01-21T16:41:00.001+08:00

Nha Trang is Vietnam's premier beach resort with a couple of kilometers of relatively pristine white beach and several hotels catering to both local and foreign tourists. For a country with such a long coastline it seems surprising that Nha Trang is the only diving hub along it. There are a couple of local islands off shore that offer some interesting diving possibilities and most dive operators here also run to the more remote loactions. Big animals are hard to find here (apart from the local morays) but the abundance of marine life makes fascinating diving. Nha Trang is more renowned for its vibrant nudibranchs and extensive coral biodiversity, over 350 species of coral can be found here.

There are several offshore islands but the majority of Nha Trang's scuba dive trips go to Hon Mun island.

Nha Trang at a glance

Geography : Beach resort

Accommodation : Hotel

Highlights : Good for learning to dive, macro organisms.

Average cost of a dive : $27

Dive Sites : 10+

Dive Operators : 5+

Getting there : Air from Saigon 1hr

Off Season : Nov / Jan

Pattaya

2010-01-18T14:00:00.001+08:00

The advantage that Pattaya enjoys over other dive destinations in Thailand is the fact that it is not seasonal. There are no monsoons here messing up the viz and you can pretty much get wet all year round. While Pattaya does not get the viz or marine life of the Andaman it still has plenty of interesting island sites to explore and several wrecks. Wreck diving really is the highlight here and there are plenty of dive operators in Pattaya to help you arrange that trip.

Pattaya at a glance

Geography : Beach holiday town

Accommodation : Pattaya Hotels

Highlights : Nightlife, easy to get to, wreck diving.

Average cost of a dive : $37

Dive Sites : 15+

Dive Operators : 20+

Getting there : Road from Bangkok 1 hour 30 minutes.

Off Season : None

Koh Chang

2010-01-18T13:59:00.000+08:00

Koh Chang is one of the few remaining loactions in Thailand that has survived the mass development and tourism that others have suffered. This is surprising considering it is the Kingdom's second largest island. Koh Chang itself is the largest of 52 islands that make up the Koh Chang Marine National Park. Untouched and pristine, its natural resources and marine life make it one of the frontier dive destinations in Southeast Asia. Most of Koh Chang's dive sites are located to the south of the main island.

Koh Chang at a glance

Geography : Marine National Park

Accommodation : Koh Chang Hotels

Highlights : Beaches and tropical rainforests, relatively unspoilt diving.

Average cost of a dive : $32

Dive Sites : 10+

Dive Operators : 10+

Getting there : Boat from mainland 45 minutes

Off Season : July / Aug

The Similans

2010-01-18T13:58:00.000+08:00

The Similan Islands are located off the coast of Khao Lak or around 100 kilometres north west of Phuket and provide arguably the best diving in Thailand. There are nine granite islands covered in thick tropical jungle, frindged by powder white beaches and surrounded with crystal cerulean waters. The area is a protected national park now but camping is allowed on the islands. Below the surface lies a diverse landscape of deep canyons, giant boulders, coral gardens, caves and walls.

Diving is almost always done off liveaboards that run out of Phuket or day trips from Khao Lak. There are many world class dive sites around the islands and all offer something different and exciting.

Thailand liveaboard trips

Tubbataha Reef

2010-01-15T13:54:00.001+08:00

Tubbataha Reef is situated almost in the middle of The Sulu Sea with the islands of Palawan to the west and Panay, Negros and Mindanao to the east. The 33,200 hectare site was declared a National Marine Park in 1988 and a World Heritage Site in 1994. Thanks to local efforts, illegal fishing and coral collection have been stamped out and the gradual destruction that was taking place before 1988 has been halted and the reef is now back in pristine condition. The diving here is considered some of the best in the world.

The reef lies 182 km southeast of Puerto Princesa, the capital of Palawan Island and it is only reachable by live-aboard boats which can be found in Puerto Princesa itself. Despite its inaccessability, the reef is now extremely popular with adventurous divers, so early booking of a live-aboard vessel is advised to avoid disappointment.

Tubbataha is made up of two reefs, simply referred to as the North and South Reefs or Islets, that are separated by 4 nautical miles of water with surrounding depths that descend to around 1,200 meters. The North Reef is 4-5 km wide and completely encloses a sandy lagoon. The reef is shallow and some of it is uncovered at low tide. The South Reef is 1-2 km wide and also encloses a lagoon. On the southern tip is a islet with a lighthouse. This is used as a rookery for birds and is frequented by turtles.

NOTE : the season here is from the end of March to June. The live-aboard boats must use the moorings or cruise. They may not anchor, so when seas are rough, it's almost impossible to moor. Smaller live-aboard vessels can get uncomfortable in choppy conditions. As the walls rise from great depths, currents can be strong and changeable so there is a lot of drift diving. Night diving is possible, but only if there is no current.

Tubbataha Reef at a glance

Accommodation : live-aboards

Currents : can be strong

Average cost of a dive : liveaboard

Dive Sites : 8

Dive Operators : 10+

Getting there : 10 hours from Puerto Princesa

Off Season : July-February

El Nido

2010-01-15T13:53:00.000+08:00

South of Coron, on the northwestern coast of Palawan Island is El Nido. The area is dotted with some 2,000 islands and Palawan is regarded as the last nature frontier in the Philippines. It lies in Bascuit Bay which, in 1991, was declared a marine reserve.There are some 54,000 hectares of marine waters.

Diving can be good year round and is very varied with lots of pelagics and excellent wall and drift diving. There are towering limestone cliffs, great beaches and clear waters. The bay is home to dugong, dolphins, turtles and an amazing array of colourful reef fish.

Due to the diversity of sites, we have focussed on the main ones, with mention being made of the smaller sites. Local knowledge will help you get the best out of the area. To the south, Puerto Princesa, the capital of Palawan, is a good place to arrange live-aboard trips to Tubbataha Reef.

El Nido at a glance

Accommodation : all types

Currents : medium

Average cost of a dive : $25

Dive Sites : 20+

Dive Operators : 6+

Getting there : by air from Manila direct to El Nido or via Puerto Princesa.

Off Season : July to Sept

Coron Bay

2010-01-15T13:52:00.002+08:00

Coron Bay is situated in North Palawan, the most westerly part of the Philippines. It lies in beween Busuanga and Culion Islands. There is fabulous diving all around the area, but the bay is particularly well known as having some of the best wreck diving in the world. To appreciate the region, a little history goes a long way.

On the 24th September 1944, The US Navy launched a massive air strike on a Japanese supply fleet that was anchored in Coran Bay. Debate as to whether the fleet was discovered by ariel reconnaissance - the Japanese had camouflaged the ships with trees and photos showed that the "islands" had moved - or whether Japanese radio transmissions were intercepted, still rages today. The fact of the matter was that at the end of the day's air strike, US fighter aircraft and dive bombers claimed to have sunk 24 vessels. Some 60 years on, 12 of the wrecks have been discovered. 8 of them are close together in Coron Bay, the others are slightly further afield.

This section will deal mainly with the wrecks, but there are other dive sites that should not be missed as well. As the wrecks have remained fairly inaccessable until recently, the corals in the area are exceptional. It is worth while pointing out that planning is essential for the wreck dives and some are for the experienced only.

Coron Bay at a glance

Accommodation : various. Mainly in Coron City, on Sangat Island and live-aboards

Currents : moderate

Average cost of a dive : $25

Dive Sites : 25+

Dive Operators : 15+

Getting there : by air from Manila to Coron airport. Live-aboards

Off Season : May-Aug

La Union

2010-01-15T13:52:00.001+08:00

Situated a 5 hour drive north of Manila, this was one of the first beach resorts to be developed in the Philippines. The US Air force had a presence here until 1992 at Wallace Air Station.

There are many dive sites worthy of mention and as in so many parts of the Philippines, there's something for everyone. La Union is a particularly good place to learn scuba diving as there are a number of shallow dives and the waters are protected, so currents are minimal.

Unfortunately, dynamiting and other illegal fishing methods have taken their toll, but there's still enough here to warrant a few days of exploration.

La Union at a glance

Accommodation : All types, plenty of tourist facilities

Currents : weak

Average cost of a dive : $25

Dive Sites : 8+

Dive Operators : 5+

Getting there : 5 hours by bus north of Manila

Off Season : July to Sept

Indomitable Bergen

2010-01-13T12:39:00.001+08:00

SEAN AUGUSTIN ; Pictures by SHAHIMAN SHARIP

The city burned to the ground not once but eight times. But where most would have given up, the folks of Bergen refused to be beaten, writes SEAN AUGUSTIN

IN a book on Norway, given to me prior to my trip, there is a picture of a smiling young girl in a yellow poncho holding a bright red umbrella in the rain. The caption reads: “Bergen is blessed with plenty of rain...”

Take a brisk walk through the streets of Bergen and you sense that it is not just showers that soak the roads and cobble-stoned lanes. History too is drenched in her paths and saturated in its walls, either wooden or stone.

Facades reek of both tragedy and triumph, enveloping the air with a redolent of nostalgia like a damp cloth in a small room. Tragic because the city, once the capital of Norway, had to endure a baptism of fire, literally. Bergen was the first capital of Norway before being replaced by Oslo in 1299.

The city burned to the ground eight times and while the causes remain unknown, the flames that once licked the edifices could not destroy the spirit of the inhabitants which, for the lack of a better cliché, rose from the ashes.

And this is why the buildings are built so far apart, one of the very first things I notice about Bergen as we head for Bryggen, our first stop.

Where The Triumph Begins

Bryggen is where the very first buildings were constructed and it slowly became the heartbeat of the city. In 1360, the German Hanseatic merchants set up offices here and dominated trade for the next four centuries. Their influence can still be seen in the names of streets and alleys as well as crests that decorate some buildings where I imagine firemen once scrambled in futility to douse the wicked fiery tongues. Remnants of the Hanseatic merchants can also be found in the many German names of Bergen families.

Now, tourists sit basking in the rare sunlight, sipping red wine and facing either the fleet of cruise ships and vessels, or admiring the rows of shops which have dates of when they were restored.

It is the face of these shops that draws you, like an elusive mermaid draws a sceptical sailor, to wander in.

Here, as you walk on creaking floorboards with the scent of wood wafting in the air, the city’s history seems to develop a soul. The narrow alleys, borne of shops packed cheek by jowl, means they sanction very little light to sneak in, which at times baths you in an air of reverence for all things old, including the termite-holed pillars that prevail the worst parts of history, be it the two world wars or the worldwide economic slump.

Maybe one of the horsemen of the apocalypse had a soft spot for Bergen, though the cacophonous mix of men and machines tell you that it’s the people of Bergen who yearn for the past to remain present.

As we meander through the shops, parts of the buildings are being lifted to lay new foundation. But neither that nor the souvenir shops snuggled in the alleys do little to erode that sepia-toned sentiment. (It made it to the Unesco World Heritage honour list in 1979).

Omniscient View

The clear sky that day means we are not to be short-changed of a bird’s eye view of the city, courtesy of Mount Fløyen, one of the seven mountains surrounding Bergen.

The less than 10-minute funicular train ride means we are not short of breath when we reach the top of the mountain which is 399m above sea level.

And here is what I appreciate about Bergen apart for the earlier trip down memory lane. The fact that you can turn your back on the hustle and bustle of the city, walk or in this case hike away, for some solitude minus the hassle of packing for an expedition.

Where at the top, despite the babbling tourists admiring the view in a language of their own while clicking away furiously, you can still find serenity on the steps leading out to the cliff.

Where at the peak you’d get an omniscient view of the city, casting her in a different light as you realise the fjord looks like a rugged guardian angel faithfully watching over his stoic yet vulnerable being.

From up here, you’d be hard-pressed to believe that she once was scarred by a calamitous past. From up here, the city parades her beauty marks.

So there I sit, surrounded yet alone, as I picture what it would be like to take part in the Seven-Mountain hike, which takes place annually.

Would I have the stamina? Or would the arresting views of the city and the docked ships from different angles seize my ambitions to complete such a race and have me acquiesce to savouring the scenery instead. Even if I came in last, I reckon I would not have lost.

Film Buff & Three Playwrights

As I walk back to my hotel, I take a second look at Rick’s Nightclub — which belongs to the Merchant’s Association of Bergen. Decades ago, the Germans made this the Gestapo headquarters, where many Norwegians were tortured by men in black uniforms. The Gestapo were the secret police under Nazi rule.

The irony would, of course, not be lost to a film buff familiar with Humphrey Bogart’s Casablanca, though it is a memorial for those who lost their lives that reminds you of the war instead of the timeless tune played by Sam.

Less than 100 paces later I run into three playwrights — Henry Ibsen, Euripides and William Shakespeare — or their marble casts, at least, nuzzled in a little enclave of the Den Nationale Scene or the National Theatre.

Although founded in 1850, the theatre was opened in 1909 and became Norway’s first theatre. It was wholly financed by Ole Bull, a renowned international violinist.

And if behind every successful man is a woman, then these bearded storytellers have a divine right to literary sainthood for Talia, the Greek Goddess and protector of the arts lords over them.

Her hands outstretched, clutching the two masks synonymous with drama as if to ward off threats, both fires and jejune ideas from the cinema nearby, to the arts. A sacred ritual of which she may have performed well.

Shakespeare after all is a legend while Ibsen’s often referred to as the godfather of modern drama and is one of the founders of Modernism in the theatre.Euripides was the last of the three great tragedians of classical Athens.

The trio are now mute though their quixotic dialogues still reverberate through staged plays and their marble casts gaze on picnicking couples in the throes of love or students buried in their books on a comfortable green lawn.

Beauty To The Ears

I call it a day, promising myself to explore the city the next morning but Bergen has a funny way to make me feel like one of hers. And her humour isn’t dry.

I keep thinking of the smiling girl in the red umbrella as I struggle on Bergen’s sodden streets with my luggage, anxious not to miss the bus to the airport. A stroll in the rain would have been a novel way to complete my visit here — after all I am already bathed in her past and cloaked in her beauty. Though beauty, I am also reminded, is not just in the eyes of the beholder.

Sometimes, it is also in the ears, a revelation of which only occurred to me on my last night in Norway as I sit in the Arctic Cathedral or the Tromsdalen Church in Tromsø, north of Oslo.

The chilly night eggs me to get into the church as soon as possible, like a repenting soul, though it is warmth and not forgiveness that I am seeking.

Once inside, the first thing I notice is how plain the cathedral is, with only the Skittles-coloured symbolic stain glass a Dan Brown enthusiast would appreciate, providing for something vivid.

Created by well-known sculptor Victor Sparre in 1972, the cathedral nevertheless has an outstanding feature — the mosaic is one of Europe’s largest stained mosaics. It rouses my tired eyes as I scrutinise the art — a welcomed move for a restless man who spends the whole day on foot, not to mention it is already past midnight.

Then I hear it. And as much as I hate repeating a hackneyed phrase, it is heavenly as it emanates from a man who sings without a microphone, reverberating notes that are familiar yet foreign.

This is the Midnight concert that locals boast about, where the performance humbles you with the simplicity of a three-man band.

I was a born-again listener, inspired to sing along but it would have been blasphemous to make a sound or any sound for that matter as a haughty tourist ticks off my photographer with condescending glances for clicking his camera. The songs, be they folk or hymns, get me thinking about “what ifs”.

What if the band sang as I am on board MS Richard With, the cruise ship that sails to Tromsø from (Svolvaer) on a clear and chilly night? Especially as she eases cautiously between the forks of the fjords, with a spotlight to show the rocky cliffs that are part of a larger silhouette just up ahead.

It seems menacing, no thanks to Hollywood-influenced morbidity, but it’s hard not to stay rooted or even irritated that you can’t capture the moment without having the flash waning the romanticism of jet black mountain under a starry sky.

So I stand there, braving the chill that manages to negate the act of wearing three layers of clothing, desperately trying to remember what I can of this 11,025 tonne cruise ship as it navigates its way out of the fjord with the grace of a ballerina.

The music would have done me some good here as I lay on the deck, watching the sky, wishing hard for a streak of aurora to make a cameo. Unfortunately, this can only be seen in winter.

What if the songs were the soundtrack to the story, as told by my guide Knut Hansvold, of Roald Amundsen, the first guy to reach the South Pole in 1911 after a three-year expedition? But that wouldn’t be what I would reserve the powerful tenor for.

The ballad is meant for Amundsen’s dramatic yet ill-fated bid, which holds an Orson Welles sway over an international audience, to rescue a team of Italians who had crashed en route to the South Pole.

Amundsen and company crashed and perished near Tromsø, some think near Bear Island. Sadly, their remains were never recovered. The news splashed in papers both local and international as a group of journos had camped in here to cover the planned rescue. Knut calls it Tromsø’s “15 minutes of fame”, but a bronze statue honouring Amundsen, though not related to this tragic end, overlooking the port vouchsafed that particular heroic quarter, is a tireless re-run among tourists .

What if the songs were the ballad for three female bearded seals who moved graciously and performed tricks all in the name of fish for their eager audience, in the tank of Polaria, a zoo-like centre on all things arctic?

Seductress Storsteinen

Your own sweet time is what is needed in a centre like Polaria which is something I don’t have, much to my chagrin. Nevertheless, the city makes it up with a trip 421m above sea level to Storsteinen.

Unlike the ascend up to Fløyen, where foliage veils the bird’s-eye view of the city like a bride on her big day, Storsteinen has no such tease. She is laid bare for all to see, the seductress she really is, claimed and accused of being.

(Tromsø is often regarded as the Paris of the north, thanks to her nightlife which enjoys national fame. A day before I arrive, Tromsø hosted rapper Snoop Dogg.)

From the top, Tromsø tantalises with her clear azure blue sky, with still white clouds that seem to strike a pose for a picture. From up here, she seems lifeless, with the only pulse I get coming from a ship cruising by and the sound of a plane purring in the distance.

Like Bergen, the view here too is breathtaking though you’d wish for once, vertigo or a fence isn’t a tourist’s worst enemy as it would have been even better to enjoy Tromsø, sitting at the edge of a cliff.

From the peak, you’re tempted to think that you know all about her with just a glance. But the truth is, she still retains a little enigma and quirky bits of history which make her a little more mysterious then her self-proclaimed haughty counterpart Bergen.

Take for example the street signs in Sami, an ethnic minority group in the country whose language was once forbidden in some areas until the 1950s. (The language , which is “related” to Hungarian and Finnish, is spoken by the Sami).

Or the tale of a man named Eidis Hansen, who some years ago rows into Tromsø. He then walked into the nearest bar for a drink but was deemed unfit to enter because of the few he’d had on the way.

Annoyed, he went back to the beach where he found a 371kg stone and carried it to the doorstep of the bar, for he declaimed that if he couldn’t come in, then nobody else should. The bar is long gone but the legendary stone is still there.

Back at the cathedral, the audience claps appreciatively for the trio, inducing an encore. He obliges with an Amazing Grace.

It is my last night in Norway. It is chilly and I am tired. But it is the prefect way to end my trip.

Apo Reef

2010-01-13T12:05:00.000+08:00

This is one of the most famous diving areas around Mindoro and Pandan Islands. In fact many would claim it to be the best in Asia and it is the second largest in the world. Situated 28 kms off the western coast of Mindoro Island, it is 34 kms long and divided into two lagoon systems, north and south.

Marine fauna is widespread and there are some 400-500 different types of coral. Marine life includes sharks, manta and stingrays. About 500 different species of fish inhabit these waters. Wall diving is second to none and you won't have to go too deep to experience a wide variety of life.

Trips to Apo reef are generally arranged from Pandan Island Resort on the west coast of Mindoro Island, Pandan Island itself to the south, or from Puerto Galera, 125 km away. Most live-aboard boats feature the area in their itineries also.

Apo Reef at a glance

Accommodation : Mainly situated on Pandan Island, Puerto Galera or live-aboard vessels.

Depth : 5-30m

Viz : 15-50m

Currents : can be strong

Average cost of a dive : $25

Dive Sites : 10+

Dive Operators : 15+

Getting there : 3 hours by boat from Pandan Island. 125 kms by boat from Puerto Galera. Live-aboards from 1-5 days.

Off Season : July to Jan

Puerto Galera

2010-01-13T12:04:00.000+08:00

Situated on the northern shores of Mindoro Island, Puerto Galera is renowned worldwide for its diving and snorkeling. Just 130 kms south of Manila and 14 nautical miles from Batangas on Luzon island, the dive sites are easily accessable with most only an hour away from whichever beach or cove you are staying at. Snorkeling is usually good just offshore. Sabang is the most popular tourist spot around Puerto Galera and it has no shortage of dive shops and resorts along with a couple of floating bars.

You will not be disappointed with the diversity of diving on offer. Currents can be very strong and some sites are for experienced divers only. Since 1996, six artificial reefs have been created around Sabang by sinking derelict vessels in the area such as the MV Alma Jane.

A place of outstanding natural beauty, Puerto Galera is one of the most popular areas for diving in the country. It is also a jumping off point for live-aboard boats visiting Apo Reef, Coron Bay and The Sibuyan Sea. Once visited, the lure to return will be strong.

Latest news: Sampling Sabang’s sub-aqua scenery (April 2008)

Puerto Galera at a glance

Accommodation : All types, plenty of tourist facilities

Depth : 20-80m

Viz : 10-30m

Currents : can be fierce

Average cost of a dive : $25

Dive Sites : 25

Dive Operators : 20+

Getting there : 2 hour drive to Batangas pier. 1 hours by boat to Sabang or other beaches

Off Season : July to Sept

Subic Bay

2010-01-13T12:02:00.001+08:00

Situated a 2.5 hour drive north-west of Manila are the newly discovered corals and wreck sites of duty-free Subic Bay. Originally a naval base established by The Spaniards in 1885, it became the largest US naval facility in the Far East. In 1991, the bay was transformed into a freeport economic and tourism zone.

Renowned in particular for its wreck diving, the bay is steeped in naval history. As there are virtually no currents, it is a great all-year round dive area. There is a well maintained recompression chamber on the former base that is worth a visit - hopefully just from a tourist point of view. As it is a duty-free port, good deals on equipment can be found so remember your passport. There is vibrant night life here.

A number of notable wrecks in Subic Bay are the USS New York, San Quentin, El Capitan and some smaller vessels including LST (Landing Ship, Tank), a US landing craft scuttled in 1946 and a couple of patrol vessels.

Subic Bay at a glance

Accommodation : All types, plenty of tourist facilities

Average cost of a dive : $25

Dive Sites : 5+

Dive Operators : 6+

Getting there : 2.5 hours drive north of Manila.

Off Season : July to Sept

The Maltese connection

2010-01-11T16:09:00.000+08:00

There’s an unexpectedly familiar voice or two in the middle of the Mediterranean whether you are Brit, Italian or Australian.

The guttural speech reveals its Arabic roots, heavily overlain with foreign words. The lifestyle, the cuisine and the staunch Catholic faith of the Maltese recall southern Italy, whilst the cosy pubs and red phone boxes reassure British visitors.

Even Australians find echoes of their faraway country on this Mediterranean island nation, thanks to a history of post-War emigration.

The Eyes of Osiris are watching

Well into September, northern Europeans flock to Malta for the Mediterranean sunshine and sparkling waters, whilst the rest of us relish fine food with an Italian touch, and the many other legacies of a tortuous history extending back 5,000 years, including the world’s oldest freestanding structures.

Like Gibraltar, Malta formed a bastion of the British Empire through the 19th and 20th centuries, a rocky outcrop that commanded vital maritime trade routes across the Mediterranean. During WWII, this island fortress withstood heavy bombardment, its people suffering greatly.

Malta’s history goes back much further, the legacies of the crusading Knights of St John being reminiscent at times of the past grandeur of Venice or Dubrovnik. Down the hill and across the water from my guesthouse lies “a fine example of a 15th-century Renaissance fortified city”.

Valletta doesn’t feel like the toy-town capital of a small island state. Rather, it wears the airs and graces of Europe’s grand old capitals bequeathed by empires now faded, as do Vienna or Trieste.

Getting around by pony in Gozo.

Grand avenues, flanked by majestic public buildings or tree-lined malls, fan out from the city centre, even if they lead only to dusty, huddled towns and villages of creamy limestone, with their impossibly grand baroque churches and sleepy town squares.

In the tourist district of Sliema, the waterfront buzzes with cafés and bars, boutiques and ice-cream vendors, but the steep backstreets are lined with traditional two- and three-storey houses, rows of painted window boxes and, every so often, a brass band clubhouse or a tiny corner store. Fine Renaissance mansions or Catholic basilicas loom up unexpectedly in the narrow streets.

It’s not all history here.

Sun-starved Europeans pack into the busy resorts along the northern coast, and exquisite grottoes, reflected by clear turquoise waters, lie concealed within the formidable limestone cliffs along the southeast coast.

At secluded coves like Ghar Lapsi (not easily reached without a car), the locals think nothing of jumping in for a dip off the natural shelves of limestone rock. On the smaller and sleepier island of Gozo — easily reached by ferry — golden sandy beaches like Ramla, splattered with sun umbrellas, become positively enticing.

In the fishing port of Marsaxlokk (mar-sash-lock), my accommodation is right above a restaurant on the waterfront. Brightly-painted fishing boats chug back and forth, delivering local snapper or lampuki (dolphin fish) to be grilled expertly for lunch. Each boat’s prow is guided by the mystical Eyes of Osiris, a tradition thousands of years old.

Dining al fresco at Duncan’s Bar & Restaurant, I order seafood pizza, which arrives piled high with mussels (still in shells), prawns, octopus and squid. At the next table sit the Baldachinos from New South Wales, family friends of my hosts, whose side door sports a little enamelled plaque celebrating “Sydney Cove” with a sketch of the Opera House and the Harbour Bridge.

Sunning on the beach at Ramla Bay.

In the island’s centre, Mdina is a well-preserved walled city where the local aristocracy long held sway even after the Knights of St John, Napoleon’s troops and other invaders had made their mark on the coastal towns. Mdina is best explored on foot. The “Silent City” teems with package tourists by day but soon falls still as the light fades.

Admire the Roman frescoes or the catacombs of early saints in nearby Rabat, then head back to the town square where Parruccan Confectionary stocks a mouth-watering selection of homemade Maltese cakes, buns, nougat and nut brittle.

Enough from me. I’m off down to the Sliema waterfront for a last swim in the “Med”, climbing in off a rocky shelf. Time afterwards for a pint of the local Cisk and a spot of people-watching along the Strand.

Malta for motorheads

Riding in a Maltese bus;

Waiting for a bus is rarely fun, but on Malta, at least there’s the novelty of wondering just what much-loved relic will come lumbering down the road.

Valletta’s teeming City Gate terminus is a working museum of decades-old AECs, Dodges, Leylands and Volvo buses, many decorated with whorls, scrolls and pious aphorisms according to the owner’s tastes.

Whilst you wait, enjoy an iced granita, a fried date turnover, a Maltese nougat or a pastizzio, the distinctively Maltese savoury pastries. Unfortunately, the regular commuters sometimes tire of erratic scheduling and the arbitrary whims of owner-drivers who aren’t always scrupulously honest when counting out change.

Warm pastizzios to go.

As in other small island nations, especially former colonies, Malta has long relied upon a diverse and sometimes incongruous collection of motor vehicles imported more or less randomly from the “mother country”. Commercial vehicles were built up from a basic chassis by local coachbuilders and carpenters, modified by resourceful owners or customised with fancy paintwork, extra chrome and interior trim.

“Route buses” — that is, public transport — have been operating ever since a certain Mr Spiteri imported the first Thornycroft buses from the UK in 1905. By 1931 the total number of buses was not far short of today’s fleet of 508, and Malta’s embryonic railway system had ceased operation.

Bus drivers were locked in acrimonious and destructive competition, and inevitably entrepreneurs emerged who built up fleets at the expense of smaller operators. Since 1977 the operators have adhered to fixed routes and standardised fares, as well as a uniform livery, the distinctive gold-and-orange of the island of Malta fleet and the more subdued grey-and-red of the island of Gozo.

Thanks in part to a hot, dry climate, the legacy of the past remains in the form of an eclectic “car park” of vehicles, most of which are at odds with the European Union’s norms on exhaust pollution. Something will be lost the day slick Scandinavian coaches shoulder aside these proud in-your-face omnibuses of yesterday.

Malta’s motley fleet of public buses is paralleled in the islanders’ enthusiasm for vintage, veteran and classic cars. On Malta’s crowded roads, I spy Austin 1800s, a Morris Estate stationwagon complete with wooden framing, and even one early 60s Austin hauling a stone mason’s trailer.

The parking lot outside the main gate to the walled city of Mdina one hot September evening includes a Ford Model A, a jet-black Ford Zephyr 6, a classic gas-guzzling Cadillac complete with chrome fins and a stately Rolls Royce in two-toned mauve. When does the rally start?

No, these diverse and eye-catching vehicles have been marshalled to chauffeur a group of visiting European VIPs.

I spy a small Ford Consul, smartly liveried in two-tone banana yellow with deep-green roof; a lime-green 1960s Opel Kapitan and an immaculate Rover TC2000, its blue-green panels positively gleaming. I learn that in the nearby town of Rabat, one garage offers a 1933 Vauxhall Grosvenor Limo for hire, claimed to be one of five surviving worldwide.

The gorgeous streets of Valletta

Harry Caruana, a dapper middle-aged man whom I encounter at the wheel of his black 1955 Chevrolet Belair — the last of its type in Malta — is a motor mechanic who has previously owned Studebakers and Vauxhalls.

How does his family react to his passion for wheels? Well, he’s a bachelor . . . that helps. Caruana, like so many Maltese, has friends and family who emigrated to Australia, and one of these, he declares, owns 10 veteran cars.

Caruana assures me there are many motor shows and rallies staged by Maltese enthusiasts. Indeed, the Old Motors Club, the country’s largest vintage and classic car club, boasts around 300 members who between them have close to 1,000 cars. The oldest car in the club is a 1904 Cadillac, reputedly one of the first motor vehicles ever to reach Malta.

Of the popular makes represented, the majority are British, but American, Italian, French, German and other Continental makes are also keenly sought, and even DKW, Marmon or Goggomobil cars can be found.

Malta’s specialist car clubs provide for devotees of American cars, classic Fords, Toyota and Alfa Romeo; these last enjoy get-togethers with their fellow enthusiasts in Sicily, a relatively short journey by fast catamaran. It’s a chance to savour the novelty of the Italian autostrada, of the rugged terrain of Mt Etna and, of course, driving on the right.

Visitors to Malta can admire the Malta Classic Car Collection in the coastal resort town of Qawra, a lavishly-presented private museum of fine cars, many from the 50s and 60s.

Anilao

2010-01-07T18:03:00.000+08:00

Just a two-and-a-half hour drive south of Manila, Anilao, is regarded as the birthplace of diving in the Philippines. There is something for everyone here - from snorkeling, to sites for both novices and the experienced diver.

In the mid-1960's, a whole coral reef was transplanted onto a large rock formation close to the shore. Contrary to popular belief at the time that the adventure would fail, the coral has flourished. As a result, diving has developed and is at the forefront of the industry in the Philippines to this day.

Visibility is good and the opportunities for photography are excellent. Unfortunately, as the area has developed, so some of the more negative aspects of this have become evident. In particular, dynamiting, collection of corals and shells and over fishing are just some of the challenges that Anilao and Batangas must face. Luckily, these are being addressed. Most of the best dives are actually found around the islands of Sombrero and Maricaban, a short boat trip away from Anilao.

A short dive north of Anilao is the quiet town of Nasugbu where good diving is also abundant.

Anilao at a glance

Accommodation : All types

Average cost of a dive : $25

Dive Sites : 25+

Dive Operators : 10

Getting there : 2.5 hours drive south of Manila.

Off Season : July to Sept

Vlad the magnificent

2010-01-03T17:28:00.000+08:00

By GRAHAM SIMMONS

Vladivostok, Russia’s charming city by the bay, is said to resemble San Francisco by those who have never visited San Francisco, and Sydney by those who have never been to Sydney.

The harbour city of Vladivostok, in the Russian Far East, occupies a superbly scenic position on the hills around Golden Horn Bay. Those who have never visited San Francisco says it’s like San Francisco. Those who’ve never been to Sydney say it is like Sydney.

The ornate ceiling of Vladivostok Rail Station recalls imperial Russia.-GRAHAM SIMMONS

In fact, Vladivostok is unique.

On the outskirts of Vladivostok, new bistros, advertising hoardings and “fast food” stalls dot the sublime birch forests that make up Russia’s heart and lungs. Orthodox churches, long fallen into neglect, are now being re-built. The roads are chock-a-block with new Japanese and Korean cars — even more so on weekends, when it seems that the entire population of the city is escaping to their country dacha.

Everything seems so normal . . . so utterly un-totalitarian, that any fears of landing in a re-emergent, quasi-Communist state are soon allayed. People here, it seems, want to enjoy the good life.

Vladivostok borders on the surreal. In Market Square, down by the harbour, a giant TV screen features Madonna and jazz artists, against a backdrop of a tall stark retro-Communist building, its hammer-and-sickle logo surely the last such emblem in the whole of Russia.

A panoramic view over Vladivostok Harbour.-GRAHAM SIMMONS

In the fast-changing streets, fashionable boutiques and cafés line the main shopping street, Svetlanskaya.

Start with the panoramic view over Golden Horn (or Peter the Great Bay), from the hill known as Eagle’s Nest. Originally, the plan was to build a Lenin statue here but, fortunately, perestroika intervened, and the mooted statue was replaced with the current Soul and Earth Park. As a result, a real, non-political view of this spectacular harbour can easily be had.

A brand-new monument is soon to rise in nearby Petrovskiiy Park, dedicated to the Russian Orthodox saints Pyotr and Fevroniya Muromskiye, who married each other after Fevroniya cured Pyotr of leprosy. Late in life, they retired to separate monasteries. They are said to have died within an hour of one another, and although buried in separate graves, they were later found together in the same grave.

Ladies browse the extensive range of fabrics on sale in Market Square. — GRAHAM SIMMONS

On Naberezhnaya Street down by the harbour, a World War II submarine is the centrepoint of a waterfront park. Visitors can enter the sub and experience first-hand the cramped living space of the crew. The submarine and an adjacent memorial commemorate Vladivostok’s loss of 30,000 of her citizens in the war — a tiny fraction of the national total of around 20 million.

Nearby is a statue of the city’s founder, KM Arsenyev, whose name graces one of the city’s top museums, (the Arsenyev Regional Museum). Some fascinating cultural tours are offered by the Arsenyev Museum Centre (6, Petra Velikogo Street, tel +7 4232) 22 50 77).

These include Monuments of Religious Architecture, visiting a synagogue, Japanese Buddhist temple and other places of worship; Chekhov in Vladivostok, following the footsteps of the famous writer; and The Theatres of Vladivostok, visiting the Korean and Chinese theatres, the Pushkin Playhouse and other theatres of pre-revolutionary Vladivostok.

Food & drink

For the time being, forget the vodka. Beer is the new pre-occupation of most Russians.

An arresting stained glass window in the foyer of the War Museum.-GRAHAM SIMMONS

At one of the numerous beer shops outside the Vladivostok rail station (check out the colourful ceiling frescoes), just off the tree-lined main street, a half-litre can costs 20-30 roubles (RM2.30-RM3.40) for a brew with as much as 11% alcohol, as strong as table wine.

For top Russian cuisine, try the Nostalgiya Restaurant (6/25, Pervaya Morskaya Street, tel 41 05 13), where the plush satin-lined dining room features statuettes and busts of the late Tsar Nicholas II and his family, and a triptych of dolls belonging to the Tsarina. Just 20 years ago, the mere existence of such a restaurant would have been enough to have its owners whisked off to a forced labour camp.

Another good choice if you don’t like Subway (the first Subway store opened in Vladivostok in June 2009) is Bar-Club La Trattoria (52, Svetlanskaya Street, tel 20 53 07), located in the house of the former governor-general of the Russian Far East, and featuring traditional Italian and old Russian cuisine.

Weddings are outdoor affairs during Vladivostok’s balmy summer.— GRAHAM SIMMONS

From Saturnaya rail station in suburban Vladivostok, a short walk leads to the Captain Cook Restaurant, attached to the Vlad Motor Inn.

“Sorry, kangaroo is off the menu,” says Irina, one of the gracious young attendants at the restaurant. “But you can have crocodile, if you like, and all of our wines are from Australia, too”!

It seems a little bizarre to find an Aussie restaurant in Vladivostok, but in this frontier city, the unexpected soon becomes the norm.

Shopping

There is a good, albeit expensive, gift shop next to the Nostalgiya Restaurant, but for bargains, by far the best bet is the market stalls in Market Square, by the railway station. For clothing, one of the chic-est boutiques in town is La Dolce Vita (29, Semenovskaya, open 10am-6pm daily)

Music-wise, for everything from heavy metal to heavier metal, check out Design-studio “Dela” (Aleutsakaya Street, next to Hotel Zolotoy Rog, tel +7 4232 30 03 77). The range, from home-grown to the latest US CD and DVD releases, is astonishing.

One of the newest and maybe the weirdest shop in town is Stalin, selling vodka and chocolates bearing portraits of the late dictator.

Nightlife

Later at night, the Ellada Karaoke Bar (38, Verhneportovaya Street, tel 51 78 50) beckons — or if you’re well-heeled or thin-souled, try the Eldorado Casino (29/31, Okeansky Prospekt, open 24 hours) or Casino Versailles (10, Svetlanskaya Street, tel: 26 96 96, open 6pm-5am).

Vladivostok also has a good nightclub scene. The long-running “Crazy” Nightclub (1, Okeansky Prospekt, in the Marine Passenger Terminal, open 9pm-6:30pm) has room for over 1,000 guests. Another popular hangout is the Zeleny Krokodil (“Green Crocodile”) Club at 12 Svetlanskaya Street.

If you don’t want to spend too much money, just grab a bottle of cheap Moldavian red wine and walk up the hill near Hotel Vladivostok. The views at night are spectacular.

And now the good news . . .

As of July 2009, the passenger ferry Eastern Dream, equipped with cabins, bars, restaurants and even a nightclub, sails weekly from Donghee (South Korea) to Sakaminoto in Japan and thence on to Vladivostok. In a first for Russia, ferry passengers disembarking in Vladivostok may stay for up to 72 hours in the country without a visa.

Ferry fares are significantly lower than airfare.

Getting there

If you don’t want to take the new ferry, Korean Airlines flies regularly from Kuala Lumpur to Vladivostok via Seoul. Vladivostok Airport is a long way (50km) from the city centre, and a taxi will cost RM60-RM70 or more. Alternatively, a bus runs between the central bus station and the airport every hour.

OUT OF TOWN At Vladivostok rail station, take the comfortable Okean train for the overnight trip north to Khabarovsk. The train follows the picturesque shoreline of Amursky Bay. The city of Khabarovsk, on the junction of the giant Ussuri and Amur Rivers, seems like an elegant transplant from Western Europe, its art nouveau architecture being unique in Russia.

ACCOMMODATION

Budget: Amursky Zaliv Hotel (9, Naberezhnaya Street, tel +7 4232 22 55 20, 22 5528).

Mid-range: Hotel Vladivostok (10, Naberezhnaya Street, tel +7 4232 412 808) is centrally located with great views over Amursky Bay. However, at weekends, it seems that the whole population of China and Korea has arrived for a quick break.

Upmarket: Best Eastern Versailles Hotel: (10, Svetlanskaya, tel +7 4232 26 42 01) is centrally located and near the railway station. Or, the four-star Vlad Motor Inn (11, Vosmaya, tel +7 4232 3 13 51), Canadian-owned, some distance from town, near Saturnaya rail station.

Airlines, airport services continue to change to suit travellers' needs

2009-12-30T16:14:00.001+08:00

Photo shows an Airbus A380 aircraft. Airlines have shrunk their schedules because of less passenger traffic. Picture: EPA

Joshua Freed
MINNEAPOLIS

Sunday, December 27, 2009

HAVEN'T flown for quite some time? Be prepared. Things have changed.

Airlines continued to adjust to the tough economy. There are even fewer planes in service, and that can make rebooking after a cancellation tougher.

Higher bag fees and new charges can make flying more expensive.

And the H1N1 flu worries mean you might get a wary look from the adjacent seat if you cough.

That can make this holiday season's travel experience more trying and costly although technology offers some ways to avoid the hassle.

The number of air travellers is expected to fall 2.5 per cent to 41 million between December 17 and January 6, according to the US Air Transport Association.

Airlines have shrunk their schedules because of less passenger traffic.

"People in the US are looking at US$600 ($844), US$700 fares for Christmas, and they're just not going, or they're driving," said Bryan Saltzburg of TripAdvisor.com.

He said infrequent fliers might be surprised by the hassle as well as the expense of checking a lot of bags at the airport.

If you check two bags on most major airlines, you'll pay a fee of US$15 or more for the first bag and US$25 or more for the second. Several airlines now charge more to check bags at the airport than online.

Technology can give you a head start before you get to the airport. Hobica believes more people are using electronic devices to plan their flights, although what's available varies by airline.

He recently changed a JetBlue flight from a mobile device and "was amazed at how easy it was".

Some airlines based in the US, including Delta, Continental, JetBlue and United, have started using social networking sites like Twitter to pass on information about weather.

Technology can also rescue you from standing in line. United Airlines is rolling out a "linebuster" service where agents with portable computers help late-arriving passengers make a connecting flight.

Agents will check lines to see if travellers have already been rebooked which is often the case and send them to their new gate, where they get a new boarding pass, said United spokesman Rahsaan Johnson.

The service is being tested in Chicago, Washington and Denver. Next month it expands to Los Angeles and San Francisco.

And then there are airport kiosks, those computers that the airlines would rather you deal with instead of an agent. Some airlines use the kiosks to sell you additional services like seat selection. Pay attention to each screen.

"You should also programme your airline's phone number into your cell phone. If you need to change flights, there's a decent chance you'll get faster results by phone than by standing in line for an agent," Saltzburg said.

That could be especially important for travellers headed into winter storms. You can also give your mobile number to the airline in case your flight changes.

Once on the plane, travellers are more likely to find Internet access. Delta Air Lines says it has Wi-Fi on about half its fleet. "You can get Internet access on roughly 40 per cent of American Airlines' domestic planes. AirTran has Internet access on its whole fleet. Rates generally run from about US$6 for handheld devices to US$13 for a laptop," he said.

Still no Wi-Fi on Continental Airlines, JetBlue Airways, Southwest Airlines, or US Airways.

There's one new concern not of the airlines' making: H1N1 flu.

Travellers might worry when they hear coughing from the seat next to or behind them.

All major US airlines can deny boarding if they suspect you have the H1N1 flu. So what if you are sick? Delta and United will waive change fees if you're too ill to fly. Travellers on American will have to pay a change fee if they bought a non-refundable ticket. Southwest doesn't charge change fees for any reason.

Several major airlines have removed pillows and blankets from flights, in part due to swine flu concerns.

JetBlue, US Airways and Virgin America sell individual pillows.

Airlines including American have supplied planes with extra medical kits containing masks, gloves, hand sanitiser wipes and thermometre strips.

Meanwhile, the lodging forecast for 2010 from PricewaterhouseCoopers shows a small increase in the number of average daily rooms sold, up 2.5 per cent to 2.68 million rooms in 2010, compared to 2.61 million in 2009.

That is the lowest number since 2003. "The industry is not rebounding," said Scott Berman, hospitality and leisure leader at PricewaterhouseCoopers. He said he expects the hotel industry will see some of its older, undercapitalised and physically obsolete properties closing as a result. AP

Tiger’s Gate

2009-12-30T15:58:00.000+08:00

Ziying's Brush

Humen stands as a reminder of the ruthless mercantilism of the East India Company in the 19th century heyday of British imperialism.

THERE is a place in Guangdong province’s Pearl River (Zhujiang) estuary whose serenity belies the fact that one of the most wrenching episodes of China’s modern history played out on its shores. Perhaps only its ominous name – Humen or Tiger’s Gate, provides a clue to the fury and exasperation that 170 years ago inspired the Qing dynasty’s Imperial Commissioner Lin Zexu, famed for his incorruptibility, to take on the rapacious British East India Company.

Humen resides in Dongguan city to the east of Guangzhou. A short distance from the lazy waters of the Zhujiang sits a Naval Battle Museum (Hai Zhan Bowuguan), also known as the Humen Lin Zexu Memorial Hall (Humen Lin Zexu Jinianguan).

Historical archive: The Naval Battle Museum in Humen presents a detailed account of the Opium Wars that led to China’s ‘century of humiliation’ at the hands of the western powers.

Although the museum’s layout is somewhat confusing, it offers an in-depth account of the two Opium Wars which resulted in China’s “hundred years of humiliation”, supported by artefacts, maps, statistics, photos, illustrations, reconstructions and copies of manuscripts from the period.

Particularly interesting is the section on the Imperial Commissioner from Fujian, Lin Zexu, whose integrity and rectitude contrasted dramatically with the duplicity and lack of moral conscience of the British East India Company.

He wrote manuals and treatises like “7 Methods of Encouraging Soldiers to Suppress Foreign Invaders” with diagrams of naval battle formations and is considered a hero who led what can justly be called the first outright war against drug smuggling in history.

The British had attempted to trade with China since the 1600s, offering manufactured items like woollens in exchange for Chinese porcelain, silk and most of all, tea. However, as British products were of little interest to the Middle Kingdom, they had to pay for Chinese goods in silver; further, the Qing court restricted such trade to Guangzhou.

The explosive demand for tea led to a trade deficit for the British, and since there was no market for their products, they turned to drugs, or rather, drug smuggling.

Their poison of choice was opium which they produced in India and sold at inflated prices in China. This highly addictive substance had for decades been imported into China in small quantities for medicinal purposes, but in league with corrupt local officials and collaborators, the British East India Company created a new demand, a “market” for its recreational use.

A bridge now spans the Zhujiang at Humen.

The flow of British silver into China thus rapidly reversed while the moribund Qing dynasty could do little to stem the burgeoning drug trade. When the imperial government outlawed the narcotic, the East India Company resorted to smuggling through intermediaries.

In 1839, the distinguished Commissioner Lin arrived in Guangzhou with full discretionary powers to do battle against opium but failed to make any headway with the recalcitrant British. Consequently in June the same year, he ordered 20,000 chests and 2,000 bags of opium (a total of 1.1 million kilos), which represented roughly half of annual imports, destroyed on Humen beach. A year later in 1840, British gunboats arrived and blockaded the Zhujiang estuary in retaliation, precipitating the first Opium War which saw similar British attacks on Fujian and Zhejiang.

The poorly-equipped Qing army with their antiquated weapons was defeated and in 1842, China was forced to sign the Treaty of Nanjing which ceded Hongkong and opened five “treaty ports” – Guangzhou, Xiamen, Fuzhou, Ningbo and Shanghai – to British trade. China had to pay reparations, give the British extra-territorial rights as well as refrain from intervening in the opium trade which flourished.

This first of several lopsided treaties was the beginning of what many consider the darkest period in the history of the Middle Kingdom. Similar humiliating unequal treaties were signed with the Americans and French, while other western powers as well as Japan soon joined in the feeding frenzy, attacking China at will on flimsy pretexts and carving out spheres of influence.

Still not satisfied despite the many concessions exacted from the Qing government, the British East India Company set about to break China’s dominance in the tea trade. In perhaps one of the earliest instances of industrial espionage, a botanist named Robert Fortune was sent to spy on Chinese tea production processes and steal plants for cultivation in India.

The thief travelled disguised as a local Chinese, and flouting Chinese laws, pilfered specimens from key tea-growing regions which he smuggled to Darjeeling, India, together with skilled Chinese tea workers. Fortune’s “success” weaned the British off a dependence on Chinese tea and led to a rapid decline in China’s tea exports.

With Fortune’s theft of Chinese tea plants, the British East India Company decimated the very industry for which they had destroyed innumerable lives with opium, leaving China with not only a much-reduced tea sector but even more damaging, a large population of enfeebled drug-users.

Today, the debauched mercantilism of the British East India Company is often obscured by romantic myths and nostalgia for the days of the “Raj”. In the face of clever marketing and watered down accounts of history, it would do us well to spare a thought for the millions of lives ruined by the Company’s unbridled lust for profit.

Kopi OO and more

2009-12-29T16:19:00.000+08:00

After a successful jaw-gathon trip to Batu Pahat, PEGGY LOH and friends attempt to repeat their feed-good experience with a trip to the coffee-town of Kluang

I know the "O" in kopi-O means coffee without milk but I am baffled by the word kopi-OO on the wall menu inside the quaint Kluang Railway Coffeeshop in Kluang.

This leads to a guessing game about what it means and to put the matter to rest, I ask the proprietor who says kopi-OO means coffee without milk or sugar.

I also learn from him that Kluang has a coffeeshop culture, that locals enjoy dallying over their cuppa at least four times a day and that XO is not a hard liquor but a combination drink of tea and coffee without milk.

After last year´s successful Batu Pahat food trail, our group of 10 (three from Singapore, two from Australia and five from Johor Baru) decide to meet again. This time, we´re headed for Kluang, bringing along appetites geared up for a gastronomic time.

With a strategy to share and enjoy more food varieties, my foodie friends coined the word "jaw-gathon" which aptly describes our marathon jaw exercise as we chit-chat over good food.

Meeting us is my Kluang buddy, Barney Lim, who not only makes us feel welcome but gives us an interesting and insightful time to his hometown.

Day One

The train promptly pulls into Kluang at 9.43am for our railway station rendezvous and breakfast at its iconic Railway Coffeeshop that harks back to 1939. For the last 70 years, it has faithfully served customers its classic coffee and toast.

The crowded shop is cooled by whirring fans while a light breeze blows in through wire-netting walls reminiscent of a bygone age.

As trains trundle in and out of the station, Lim Jit Chiang, a fourth generation family member who now runs the coffeeshop, serves us kaya toast and coffee while we help ourselves to packets of nasi lemak and mee siam, pulut panggang and curry-puffs from a tray on the table. It´s all simple but tasty fare that leaves us completely satiated.

Then it´s time for us to check into Hotel Anika. It´s easy to spot the hotel from the station and after checking in, we set off on a drive around town.

We see many modern malls and traffic lights at junctions but we can´t help noticing how Kluang still has a good number of roundabouts, which can be a bane in traffic-choked places.

At Jalan Lambak, we stop to admire rows of sturdy shophouses with intricate roof parapet designs of lion figurines in different poses. These date back to 1934, 1936, 1937 and 1940.

We discuss our lunch options and finally settle on curry noodles at Yong He. Served in traditional ceramic bowls painted with cockerels, the noodles are drowned in thick curry gravy and are topped with ingredients like fishballs, meatballs, fried wantan, soft white tofu, fried tofu, cockles and beansprouts.

While Barney, who has been enjoying noodles here since he was a little boy, prefers dry-tossed lo shee fun noodles with just a dash of curry gravy, vegans can ask for the vegetarian variety.

To cool down after the spicy meal, we choose pai mu er, a sweet, soothing brew of white fungus with red dates.

At Tong Huat Confectionery, I meet Loo Swee Hon, who has been making traditional Chinese pastries like tau sah piah for 13 years. Pointing to pastries cooling on trays, he tells me how to tell them apart -- savoury ones filled with green bean paste are glazed while those sprinkled with sesame seeds are sweet.

When I emerge from the bakery, I am not surprised to see the others with bags of pastries they had bought!

Having had our fill of pastries, we are ready for Kluang´s famous thirst-quencher � Ghani Kadir´s cendol. Before him, Ghani´s grandfather and then his father were operating the cendol stall.

Surrounded by 10 women thirsty for his family recipe of refreshing iced cendol with boiled red beans, the affable Ghani looks more than amused to dish out bowl after bowl to cool us down.

For dinner, we have our stomachs� I mean our eyes... set on Restoran Yean Kee´s beef noodles. Like Ghani, Goh Chuan Kian´s family has been serving beef noodles for three generations.

As we´ve been warned that there´s usually a long queue waiting for these individually-prepared noodles, we decide to make our way there early.

The rice noodles come with sliced beef, tripe and tendons and are topped with chopped salted vegetables, peanuts, sesame seeds and secret sauces. The noodles are served dry, with a side bowl of delicious herbal soup. As for dessert to round off the evening (no pun intended), we settled for bowls of warm tong yuen, glutinous rice balls filled with crushed peanuts!

Day Two

Hot local coffee with buttered toast dipped in soft-boiled eggs at Jack Lim´s busy Kluang Rail Cafe is a nostalgic way to start the second day of our jaw-gathon.

After polishing off plates of mee siam, mee rebus and nasi lemak, we walk around the shops in Jalan Mersing, stopping at Kwong Yik Sang cane furniture shop where we buy a beautiful, woven cane stool.

In Wing Tong Onn, a dusty old Chinese medicine hall, our friend Ling discovers made-in-China "ear diggers" and buys up the lot because they are so rare and fascinating!

After the invigorating walk, we are ready for lunch at Restoran Patam. The signature dishes here are curry fish, fried fish head, garlic herb chicken and steamed otak-otak.

Apart from these, its vegetable dishes like fried special beancurd, petai sambal, kangkong belacan and bittergourd stirfried in salted egg are also very agreeable.

Even though I´m not a fan of fish head, I must admit that the unique flavour of spices and curry leaves in this fried fish dish, keeps me nibbling.

Such a sumptuous meal needs serious working off, so we head for Air Hitam to browse around Claytan´s ceramic warehouse and the souvenir market while keeping an eye on the time.

Happily, we manage to return to Kluang railway station in time to send our friends safely off to Singapore on the 6.40pm train.

Before we begin our drive back to Johor Baru, we drop in again at Barney´s western restaurant. Barney whips up Caesar Salad, deep-fried silverfish and grilled prawn with imperial stuffing for appetisers.

For the main course, it´s (wait for it!) exquisite wagyu beef which I savour seasoned only with salt and pepper.

Saving the best for last, we indulge in desserts-to-die-for -- chocolate brownies topped with vanilla ice-cream, rich chocolate cake and tiramisu spiked with a tinge of Kahlua.

How To Get There

For the full Kluang experience, hop on board the Keretapi Tanah Melayu (KTM) train. By road, take the North-South Highway. Exit at Air Hitam toll and turn right to Kluang town. Or take the scenic route from Johor Baru via Air Hitam for a 90km drive to Air Hitam with another 20-minute easy dual-carriageway drive to Kluang.

Fast Facts:

Kluang Railway Coffeeshop

At Railway Station. Open from 6.30am to 12.30pm and from 2.30pm to 6pm daily except Thursdays.

Kluang Rail Cafe

33 Jalan Manggis. Open on Monday and Tuesday from 7am to 7pm and on Wednesday to Sunday from 7am to 10pm. Closed every third Monday.

Restoran Yong He

Curry noodles. 1 Jalan Bidara 1, Taman Suria (off Jalan Niyor). Open from 7am to 2.30pm daily except Mondays.

Restoran Yean Kee

Beef noodles. 4 Jalan Murni 1, Taman Murni. Open from 9am to 2pm and 5pm to 8.30pm. Closed Mondays.

Restoran Patam

Spicy curry fish. 28A Jalan Lim Swee Sim, Taman Kluang Baru. Open from 11.30am to 3pm and from 5.30pm to 10.30pm. Closed on alternate Tuesdays.

Ghani Kadir´s Cendol

Stall in Jalan Dato Kapitan Ahmad. Open daily from 9am to 7pm.

Dessert: Glutinous rice dumplings.

Unit A-88, Jalan Panggung Hawker Centre. Open from 9pm. Closed alternate Mondays.

Barney´s

5-6 Jalan Yayasan. Open from 11.30am to 10pm. Closed Wednesdays. Pork-free. Tel: 07-774 4992.

Tong Huat Confectionery

28-30 Jalan Cantik, Kluang.

Swiss, au naturel

2009-12-28T12:36:00.000+08:00

There’s lots to do in the land of mountains besides skiing and indulging in cheese and chocolate.

WHEN you tell someone you’ve been to Switzerland in summer, they’re bound to ask – after the oohs and aahs: “What’s there during summer? What can you do then?”

Some months ago, I might well have been the one asking those questions. As Switzerland is so well known for winter tourism, it’s all too easy to think that that is the only season anything happens there.

This summer, I was pleasantly surprised to find there is much in store for the ardent traveller or occasional tourist within the mountains – even when the ski slopes are still bare of snow.

Oenophiles can explore vineyards that cover Valais’s many slopes to find out more about the people and stories behind its wines.

Our group of 150 writers and journalists were there to sample some of Switzerland’s best treasures – its nature parks – in the canton of Valais, where you can explore and experience the outdoors in as many ways as you like. All you need are good shoes for hiking and walking, and a jacket to keep warm (the temperature can drop from above 20°C to about 5°C when you go up the mountains).

Located in the heart of the Alps, Valais is not only home to some of the highest peaks (like the Monte Rosa and Matterhorn) and deepest valleys of the country (it covers a part of the Rhone Valley); it is also home to a rich blend of history, culture and gastronomic delights.

The first hint of good times in store for you at breakfast, lunch and dinner are the acre upon acre of green grapevines sunbathing on systematically terraced slopes you see as you approach Valais by train.

In places like the Bishop’s castle in Leuk, you can dine and enjoy panoramic views of the mountain ranges.

True to its topography, Valais is the largest wine-producing region of the country, with 5,200 hectares of vineyards responsible for about 45 million litres of wine per year – 40% of the country’s annual production.

Tasting its award-winning wines is just one attraction in Valais. Finding out more about the people and stories behind the wines can also be rewarding. Recreational and educational hiking tours through the vineyards are available for inquisitive oenophiles and aficionados. If you visit during autumn, you may just be in time for the annual wine festivals and hikes.

Venture further away from town centres like Valais’s capital, Sion, and you’ll get the second hint from the cows grazing lazily on the meadows and hillsides. Melted cheese made from the milk these cows produce is the essence of traditional meals in Valais. Indeed, no meal is complete without cheese – served as it is, or blended in with the dishes.

If you are a cheese lover visiting Valais, the Raclette, I was told, is a dish you should not miss. In what looks like a variation of the cheese fondue, the semi-firm raclette is usually scraped off a large cheese over a charcoal fire and served with potatoes and a glass of Fendant (a white wine). Although the cheese is also produced in France, Australia and the United States, you should taste the original version made like it was generations ago in Valais – with unpasteurised, fresh milk.

It’s scenes like this that send us into photo-taking frenzies everywhere in Valais.

In between meals, the Pfyn-Finges Regional Nature Park and Binntal Nature Park are amazing places to work off calories. In the former, you can take a leisurely walk or arrange a guided tour of Switzerland’s largest fir forest, where the Rhone River flows through. Picnics on its meadows or beside its peaceful lakes fringed by scenic views of the Alps can be a good idea, if you are in the alfresco mood.

Those looking for more challenging trails and activities like mountain biking will find the Binntal (Binn Valley) park more interesting. Situated in the Goms district in upper Valais (between 1,000m and 2,927m above sea level), the trails are decidedly tougher, and there is a wider variety of walks and hikes to choose from.

Take the medicinal plants and mineral excursions, which are half-day or full-day guided walks up or down the Binn Valley, and you’ll discover many therapeutic shrubs and colourful crystals.

I did not try the mineral excursion, but the medicinal plants excursion was an enjoyable experience. Locating herbs and berries growing in the wild on our way down from Bellwald (the highest village in Goms) was enlightening, more so for a person like me, who has only seen cranberries and blackberries packed in a plastic container or a glass jar.

In mountain villages, visitors can interact with the locals to find out more about their culture.

Other trails that take you through the old mountain villages, from small ones with only six inhabitants (that’s what they call residents there) to larger ones with hundreds, will provide chances for you to interact with the locals and find out more about their culture. At some of the villages, you can even stop by the stores, which offer local artwork (paintings and wood sculptures) and crystals (including quartz and tourmaline).

But if you are just looking for a quiet time to kick back and while the time away in the comfort of your holiday accommodation, there are plenty of campsites, bed-and-breakfasts, portal apartments and mountain huts scattered across the mountains, where you can wake up to fresh air, and snow-capped mountains in the distance.

Perfect timing

Although Valais is famed for its winter tourism (think Zermatt), not many know it is also a place to rest and relax, or enjoy the sunlight and scenery while you put some muscles to work in summer.

But being with nature does not detract from the admirable Swiss punctuality, an editor in our group found out. After unloading all the suitcases from our compartment, he found himself stuck on the train, which pulled away before he could step out.

Mid-August to early September is a good time to visit. As summer recedes and autumn arrives, the combination of cool (but not cold) weather, sunny days (about 300 in a year) and flora in full bloom can take your breath away, as it did mine.

To find out more about Binntal and Switzerland’s other nature parks or Unesco World Heritage Sites, visit mySwitzerland.com/nature or contact the Embassy of Switzerland in Malaysia at 03-2148 0622.

Race to Mermaid Island

2009-12-27T20:36:00.000+08:00

When Pulau Duyung became part of the Monsoon Cup circuit, the island gained fame and made its mark on the world map, writes ALIAS MOHAMED

Tourists being ferried to the competition site in trishaws." border="0"> Tourists being ferried to the competition site in trishaws.

PULAU Duyung or Mermaid Island at the mouth of Sungai Terengganu is made up of a cluster of small islands – Pulau Duyung Besar, Pulau Duyung Kecil, Pulau Ketam, Pulau Kelab Aya and Pulau Duyung Sekolah.

In the past, when Pulau Duyung was only accessible by boat, so there were few visitors though some did make the trip just to have a look at the island’s famous traditional boatbuilding workshops and traditional handicraft industry.

Upon completion of the Sultan Mahmud Bridge in early 1990, Pulau Duyung started to bloom, attracting more and more visitors. Then, when the Monsoon Cup, the prestigious international sailing event, made its debut in Pulau Duyung, the island found a place on the world map.

The sailing event, dubbed as the World F1 Boat Race, has made the little island famous. It is now one of the stops on the competitive boat racing circuit.

The first Monsoon Cup was held in 2005, with 12 sailing boats taking part. Australian Peter Gilmour (now Datuk) won the inaugural six-day race.

Ironically, while most places in the country are battling flood waters, Pulau Duyung has benefited from the monsoon by holding an international event and attracting tourists from around the world.

The latest series of the Monsoon Cup competition was held in Pulau Duyung from Dec 2-6. This time, 12 teams, including Malaysia’s Taring Pelangi, took part.

Just like in the previous competitions, boat racing fans from all over the world camped in Pulau Duyung for the five-day event. Among locals who turned out for the occasion was a family from Johor, who came all the way to “see with our own eyes how the race is being conducted”.

“Ever since the Monsoon cup started a few years ago, we’d been waiting for an opportunity to see what this competition is all about,” said Abdul Raof Ahmad, 39, from Johor Baru.

Besides the race, other events held included traditional games such as top spinning and kite flying. A singing contest and meet-the-celebrities programmes were also held.

For tourists, Pulau Duyung has much to offer. It’s still a traditional village though there are a few modern brick houses. But life here is still steeped in tradition, with many villagers determined to preserve their heritage, especially that of boat-making.

“Pulau Duyung is synonymous with boat-making,” said a local Monsoon Cup fan who preferred to remain anonymous.

He said the industry started in the middle 1800s, when huge vessels were needed to transport salt and other commodities like brassware, rattan and spices, to Thailand, Cambodia and China.

“However, because of problems in getting the raw materials, there are only a few boat builders left,” he said.

One place of interest is Kota Lama or the Pulau Duyung Fort. According to the locals, this was the place from where Islam spread in Terengganu. It was built in 1920 by Islamic scholar Datuk Biji Sura Nik Mohamad Hitam, also popularly known as Tuk Syeikh Duyong.

The fort is made of bricks and wood carvings done by locals and experts from Singapore. Among its special features are the roof, the connecting room, the hallway and the bridge linking the various rooms.

How To Get There

Pulau Duyung is located at the mouth of Sungai Terengganu. It’s a five-minute boat-ride from the jetty in Kuala Terengganu. Going by road is easy, via the Sultan Mahmud Bridge that links the island to the city centre.

The Best Adventure in the World

2009-12-27T02:58:00.000+08:00

Queensland, Australia is a thrill-seeker’s haven offering everything from adrenaline-pumping activities to soft adventures, complemented with splendid weather all year round. Go higher, faster and deeper and enjoy the best adventure in the world.

Tangalooma Wild Dolphin Resort

At Tangalooma, 75 minutes’ by boat from Brisbane, you can try your hand at the exhilarating sport of tobogganing down sand dunes as high as 70 metres or have a rugged adventure through the beach and bushlands of Moreton Island on an ATV quad bike!

Breathtaking Brisbane

Take it down a notch and embark on an adventure climb up Brisbane’s iconic Story Bridge, which offers unparalleled panoramas of Queenland’s capital city’s skyline and beyond from a dizzying equivalent of a 22-storey high building.

For more outdoor pursuits, try Brisbane’s Riverlife Adventure Centre where you can go kayaking, rock climbing or abseiling at Kangaroo Point cliffs, or cycling by the scenic Brisbane River. You can also enjoy unique Aboriginal cultural experiences, such as song and dance, boomerang throwing and fire-starting techniques.

Exhilarating Gold Coast

With sun-drenched beaches and beautiful weather, you couldn’t find a more picturesque place to learn to surf than at the Gold Coast. Take up a beginner’s lesson and experience the thrill of riding the waves like a local in just one lesson.

If diving into the sky is your idea of the perfect holiday activity, then the Gold Coast’s range of adrenaline-pumping sports, including skydiving and bungy jumping, will satisfy the thrill seeker in you. For an aqua adventure, try high-speed jet-boating for non-stop exhilaration!

See Queensland in a new perspective – high up in a hot air balloon! From Gold Coast to Cairns, you can experience this once-in-a-lifetime activity from many scenic spots in Queensland. See the beautiful sunrise, spot kangaroos or just enjoy the view - it’s romance and thrills all rolled into one!

Self-drive Adventure

Why not create your own Queensland adventure by embarking on a self-drive journey along The Great Sunshine Way? Take a leisurely drive through Brisbane, Gold Coast, Sunshine Coast and Fraser Coast, and enjoy the best mix of cities, coast and the rolling hills of the hinterland in this exciting touring route. Shop at colourful markets, dine at quaint tearooms and stay at beautiful resort towns.

For more information on Queensland, visit www.queensland.com.sg

Gold Coast – your gateway to Queensland, Australia. Fly from Kuala Lumpur to Gold Coast from RM 248.

Go Holiday Packages :-

4D / 3N Gold Coast

Surf Parade Resort (Apartment)RM 1,137 / pax

Mantra Legends Gold CoastRM 1,296 / pax

Q1 Resort & Spa (Ocean View Rooms)RM 1,673 / pax

Attractions (DIY)

Currumbin Wildlife SanctuaryRM 143 / pax

Full Day Brisbane City Tour + Lone Pine Koala Sanctuary + River CruiseRM 465 / pax

WhiteWater WorldRM 146 / pax Only available when you book at goholiday.airasia.com

Booking period : 11 Dec – 20 Dec 2009
Travel period : 1 May – 30 Oct 2010

Book now at airasia.com or via mobile.airasia.com
Terms and conditions apply

Contest

Win! The Best Holiday in the World Worth RM25,000 for 2

Be sure to look out for our features on The Best Nature Holiday, The Best Family Holiday and The Best Adventure on28 Nov, 5 & 12 Dec 2009 to increase your chances of winning!

All you have to do is pick your favourite holiday theme & tell us in 50 words or less why that’s The Best Holiday in the World.

Win all the experiences listed below, 7 nights’ accommodation and return Gold Coast flights on AirAsia X’s Premium seats!

Plus, your trip will be featured in The Star Weekender!

The Best Nature Holiday in the World

VISIT THE GREAT BARRIER REEF
Flight to Lady Elliot Island, a true coral cay on the Great Barrier Reef.

BECOME A MARINE BIOLOGIST
Join Tangalooma’s Dolphin Care Team, feed wild dolphins & learn about marine life.

MAGICAL GLOW WORMS
Evening tour of Australia’s largest glow worm colony.

The Best Family Holiday in the World

VIP TOUR OF CURRUMBIN WILDLIFE SANCTUARY
Behind-the-scenes tour, including a visit to its Wildlife Hospital.

PRIORITY AT DREAMWORLD
Skip the queues at thrill rides! Have breakfast with SpongeBob SquarePants & Patrick!

STAY AT THE WORLD’S TALLEST RESIDENTIAL TOWER
Live it up in Q1! Includes entry to QDeck on the 77th floor.

The Best Adventure in the World

FEEL ON TOP OF THE WORLD Exhilarating balloon flight & champagne breakfast with Hot Air.

STORY BRIDGE ADVENTURE CLIMB
Feel the adrenaline rush as you climb Brisbane’s iconic Story Bridge! Includes Brisbane 5-in-1 City Attractions Pass.

ATV QUAD BIKING
Experience the thrill of quad biking in Tangalooma Resort, Moreton Island.

Terms & conditions apply.
Please submit your entries at www.queensland.com.sg/bestholiday by 28 December 2009.
The results will be announced on 9 January 2010 in The Star Weekender. Winners must be able to travel on 25 January to 2 February 2010.

TRAVEL

Staying comfortable abroad

jlunjew@thestar.com.my

The great escape

louisa@thestar.com.my

Live loud and vivid

Sydney has a past

Calling on Anak Krakatoa

Go: Diving with responsibility

Peonies in full bloom

Flemington by the Lake

Carved by ocean waves

Delights galore

Thrills and spills in Vietnam

By REVATHI MURUGAPPAN

Getting there

Canyoning knowledge

The Melbourne identity

By S. S. YOGAPictures by S. S. YOGA, EUREKA SKYDECK88, MELBOURNE AQUARIUM, TOURISM VICTORIA & A MAZE N THINGS

Villa luxurious

Popular with the girls

Oasis of fun

Diving in Malaysia

Other dive sites in Thailand

Koh Lipe

Khao Lak

Koh Phi Phi

Phuket

Koh Lanta

Krabi

Koh Samui

Koh Tao

Chumphon

The Finnish line

Backstory - Helsinki

Standing at the southernmost tip

Traditional Chinese temples

Breaker Reef

Aberdeen

Diving in Hong Kong

Diving in Cambodia

Anilao : Nasugbu

Marinduque

Davao

Boracay

Leyte

In love with Istanbul

By Reggie Lee

Getting there

Stepping back in time

By Liz Price

Pagodas in the dust

By Liew Suet Fun

Mergui : North Twin

Mergui : Three Islets (Shark Cave)

Mergui : Western Rocky Island

Mergui Archipelago

Burma Banks

Mactan

Cebu

Bohol

Switzerland’s great unknown

By AGATHA MATAYUN

Getting there & around

Bright & breezy Britain

Stories by LOUISA LIM

Here to help

Phu Quoc

Whale Island

Nha Trang

Pattaya

Koh Chang

The Similans

Tubbataha Reef

El Nido

Coron Bay

La Union

Indomitable Bergen

Apo Reef

Puerto Galera

By S. S. YOGA
Pictures by S. S. YOGA, EUREKA SKYDECK88, MELBOURNE AQUARIUM, TOURISM VICTORIA & A MAZE N THINGS